EB-3 wiring

[exiledarchangel]

Nice! How does that Duncan SM2B sounds on its own?

[chromium]

Congrats! If the diode thing is too subtle, maybe try germanium diodes... the spec to look for is something with very low forward voltage drop (Vf) around 0.2v.  The Ges might clip a little more of the signal, versus the silicon diodes which tend towards a higher rating there.  Subtle is probably more desirable, though.

[eb2]

I may mess around more. I used a length of wire to the diodes, so I can easily snip them out and sub something else. But I am pragmatic, and it does work. It sounds good. It has a lot of variation, and when I get it all done I will figure out how to record sound clips.  And pics, etc.  I have a few issues to figure out still.  The push pulls are too big for the SG body, so I have to figure that out.  I am thinking of a solution for the plate, as I will not pop dpdt holes in the top. Hardest thing now is I am getting tired of working on it, and just want to be done.  And the witch hats I got don't like the pot shafts.  Always something.

The SM2b is great sounding, to me.  It has a fat sharper tone, and it a load more powerful than the original. Much more useful as far as blending. It picks up more of the higher end, obviously.  Again, sound clips eventually.  But I had been considering that and the hot DiMarzio, which I think is not being made anymore, but is hard to find and expensive when you do.  It has a couple of k's less than the Duncan.  But those are what I was looking at.  I like it a lot.

[ramone57]

And the witch hats I got don't like the pot shafts.  Always something.

if the pot shafts aredesigned for using knobs with a set screw, perhaps some sleeves would help?

http://guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_pothardware.htm

[chromium]

...The push pulls are too big for the SG body, so I have to figure that out...And the witch hats I got don't like the pot shafts

I ran into that on my former EB-0, where I used push/pulls for series/parallel and coil-tap configs.  I miss that bass, but just couldn't justify keeping that and a similar era EB-3.

I used a Dremel and disc-type sander to remove a little thickness right where the pots mount.  Really hated to do that, but it helped... and there was enough wood to spare in the case of that particular specimen (it was also a beater with repaired body cracks and plugged pbass route).  I was able to keep the brass insert in there, and it just conformed once the pots were installed.  



It might have been you that mentioned using a bit of gasket material around the edge of the control plate to give some extra clearance.  That was a good idea, but I didn't end up having to go there once I made the change described above.  Might help in your situation, though.

I seem to recall having trouble installing the witch hats too.  Wish I remembered what the circumstance was.  The pots were knurled like the hats, but they didn't fit well if I recall.  I think I might have had to enlarge/dremel the hats a bit to fit(?)

[eb2]

That is ringing a bell, and kind of what I am going to attempt.  I will do it one of two ways - either an outline piece of pickguard plastic or something similar to lift the whole plate up a tad.  Kind of a big donut. Or, take a new backplate - Gibson or aftermarket - and cut out a clearance hole for the push pulls, then make a raised cover for that.  I am terrified to rout the body thinner at the controls because I have seen too many cracked up SG control areas, and this one has no breaks.  It did - the neck came with a body that had been smashed there, and the body came with a decapitated neck. Now whole. I have been working on this beast for way too long.  I could have bought two.

I used DiMarzio pots.  The volume and tone (push pull) have different shafts.  I got the Vol on fine, but the tone is not the same edge profile and it grabs up too quick.  I may just gently drill it out a tad.  They aren't set screws, just jam them on style.  Worst case scenario I buy a couple of the Allparts mid-60s style knobs as they make them for both style shafts.  I prefer the mid 60s vibe, but this is a 69ish bass kind of.

The DiMarzio pots are great.  I have used them in the past and like them, and a lot of metal-head guitar guys say they are smoother.  I don't play around with the knobs too much but I guess if I want to, I am good to go.  And they are cheap.  Good enough for me.

[chromium]

And they are cheap.  Good enough for me.

CTS pots are overhyped IMO.  Construction is no doubt beefier, and people expect parts like that on certain guitars- but functionally speaking and given the typical markup?  Meh.  I do use them for some of these projects, but its more of a "feel" thing.  When I turn a knob on an old Gibson, I expect that faster travel and "clunk" at the extremities.  The Alphas, etc.. have a slight friction and smoother feel to them.  Purely psychological.

As for longevity, I recently repaired and restored the old 70s keyboard pictured below, and all of its "cheaper" pots cleaned up and operate perfectly now.  The *one* scratchy pot that remains?  The uber expensive sealed mil-spec pot (ala Alembic and other high-end stuff) used on the master volume   I'll have to replace that one, as it seems to be beyond its ability to self clean.  The modular synth behind it is comprised almost entirely of Alpha pots going on 10+ years old.  They all still work perfectly, and those see a helluva lot more movement than my guitar pots ever will.



So IMHO, there's really nothing wrong with the cheaper pots.

[exiledarchangel]

I use Alphas on my basses/guitar and some effects I've build and I'm happy with em. I tend to change pots on my stuff for some reason, even if there isn't some obvious problem with them. I think that's called OCD!

[sniper]

convert it to an EB3 type and use one of my varitone plates to cover the present hole plug. just thinkin!

[eb2]

Ok, I made a neater, I hope, diagram.  You could sub two other things of some sort in the 2nd and 3rd position of Pole C for more fun.  Any critiques or comments are welcome. I still don't have the back on it yet, so soldering is an option.