EB-3 wiring

eb2 · November 09, 2011, 04:14:55 PM

I had done series parellel with a p-bass pup years ago, and I always liked the variety. On the Fender it just gave it an opened up honked out sound, but lower output. So I cool with that mod, and curious on how it will sound on a mudbucker. I think it may sound better on the lead pup, as it is thinner. I am loading a Duncan SM2b in mine, but haven't wired it up yet. Just a guesstimation that it would blend more effectively.

Highlander · November 09, 2011, 04:18:18 PM

That's what I did with the MB in the PC...

drbassman · November 10, 2011, 06:24:50 AM

OK, here's the deal. I have the hum bucker Sniper gave me that Curtis rewired and wound to original specs with the standard braided 2 conductor wire on it. I think I'd like to use that since the current pup (and the bridge pup) from the EB-3 isn't giving me any readings no matter how I combine the wires with my meter. I'm gonna call Curtis and see if he can rehab them for me.

In the meantime, I want this bass together and playable. So, here's what I want to do since it will be months before the pups can be rehabbed. I want to use the 2-wire mud bucker that I have and a reissue bridge pup (temporarily) with a 4-way switch and 2 vols - 2 tones. How might that schematic look?

eb2 · November 10, 2011, 06:57:14 AM

Exactly like like the wiring diagram below:
http://bassoutpost.com/index.php?topic=1295.0

It is in the second post, by ramone57. That is the stock wiring for an eb-3, so where you have the choke in that diagram - and you want to skip that - either leave it blank (a jumper wire) or stick something else in there. What? It could be just another cap of another value to alter the sound, or some do-dad, or just nothing. It would function like a regular toggle but with a 4th position.

drbassman · November 10, 2011, 01:39:06 PM

Thanks, that's one even I can follow!!!

drbassman · November 10, 2011, 02:34:50 PM

OK, what the heck is the difference between 400 and 600v caps? Geez, this is a snake pit! What should I buy?

Highlander · November 10, 2011, 02:37:19 PM

All you folks that fiddle around with these silly tone things... it's all in the fingertips and position along the strings...

eb2 · November 10, 2011, 03:21:41 PM

QuoteOK, what the heck is the difference between 400 and 600v caps?

For inside an old EB-3, nothing. Those voltage ratings are for what the cap will handle, but in a bass something would be both wrong and deadly if you were to put voltage through it. Technically we do, just its teensy miili-voltage that the pup generates. Get the cheapest.

eb2 · November 10, 2011, 03:27:20 PM

Years ago I pulled a cap out of a Gibson bass and took it into a guitar shop to get another. I loved the tone control and figured if they could get me one, I could put it into something else. They were confused why the bass had an amplifier part in it - it was 400v rating. Fender used low end disc caps, like you can get at radio shack, but the signal would filter the same and you would never need a high voltage cap. So, that was probably what Gibson was using - amp parts/bulk buying.

sniper · November 10, 2011, 06:06:36 PM

Quote from: eb2 on November 10, 2011, 03:27:20 PM
Years ago I pulled a cap out of a Gibson bass and took it into a guitar shop to get another. I loved the tone control and figured if they could get me one, I could put it into something else. They were confused why the bass had an amplifier part in it - it was 400v rating. Fender used low end disc caps, like you can get at radio shack, but the signal would filter the same and you would never need a high voltage cap. So, that was probably what Gibson was using - amp parts/bulk buying.

i have been told this same thing by several electronic engineers concerning the chokes in the EB series ... amp parts in a guitar. max we are talking about would be about 500 milli volts output in a mudbass.

drbassman · November 11, 2011, 05:50:22 AM

Quote from: eb2 on November 10, 2011, 03:27:20 PM
Years ago I pulled a cap out of a Gibson bass and took it into a guitar shop to get another. I loved the tone control and figured if they could get me one, I could put it into something else. They were confused why the bass had an amplifier part in it - it was 400v rating. Fender used low end disc caps, like you can get at radio shack, but the signal would filter the same and you would never need a high voltage cap. So, that was probably what Gibson was using - amp parts/bulk buying.

Interesting. So many builders swear by Orange drops over the low end caps. They claim they sound better that the other caps, but who knows?

Pilgrim · November 11, 2011, 09:04:56 AM

Quote from: drbassman on November 11, 2011, 05:50:22 AM
Interesting. Some many builders swear by Orange drops over the low end caps. They claim they sound better that the other caps, but who knows?

That's an example of where psycho-acoustics (the ability to hear what you want or expect to hear) impinges on actual acoustics. When it comes to discussions of parts like Cap type A vs. Cap type B, there are people who will go to the mat for their preference. When it comes to this kind of tiny part, I find it difficult to separate the parts which actually make a difference from those which only make a difference on the psycho-acoustic level, in which you hear what you want to hear.

nofi · November 11, 2011, 02:24:52 PM

i rewired an old kramer with cts 250 pots, .47 orange drop cap and switchcraft jack. i noticed an immediate change for the better. could be the original electric were crap...

eb2 · November 11, 2011, 03:36:01 PM

That is all top drawer stuff, so I would guess that was an upgrade.

drbassman · November 14, 2011, 05:57:20 PM

Quote from: eb2 on November 10, 2011, 06:57:14 AM
Exactly like like the wiring diagram below:
http://bassoutpost.com/index.php?topic=1295.0

It is in the second post, by ramone57. That is the stock wiring for an eb-3, so where you have the choke in that diagram - and you want to skip that - either leave it blank (a jumper wire) or stick something else in there. What? It could be just another cap of another value to alter the sound, or some do-dad, or just nothing. It would function like a regular toggle but with a 4th position.

OK, if I substitute a jumper for the choke, I just run a wire from the rotary switch lug #8 to the pot ground, right? And how the heck do I figure out the numbers on the lugs on the 4-way?