Peelings. Wo-oh-oh-ooo peelings... (BaCH NR and a stripper)

Started by chromium, August 26, 2009, 10:06:24 PM

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chromium

I got the block sanding done this afternoon.  I used the styrofoam and eraser tricks for around the edges, heel, and tummy contour - this really helped.  I was being ultra careful not to alter the contours.  I have a big rubber sanding block that I used for the larger flat surfaces.






Some more construction details for ya'll - set neck and body laminates:



... and scarf joint:




Next up... its bondo time.  I'll fill any unneeded holes, and a couple spots on the edge where there was filler from the factory that the aircraft stripper disolved:


OldManC

Quote from: TBird1958 on August 29, 2009, 12:15:06 PM
Give me a day or two Andy, I'll get you some shots.

Seeing as they're a different design, if you don't end up peeling 'em apart for another set of chrome covers they may be worth something more than a regular set at some point.

Hornisse

It is very interesting to see these basses nekked. :o  I spent some time today with my black one and it still amazes me. 

Lightyear

Yes, indeed, very interesting!  So Bach is working smart - veneered core wood, most likely a mahogany sustitute - maybe african, maple neck with scarf joint.  I wouldn't call any of these things bad at all - this is still a great bargain.  Also, maple neck and mystery mahogany an everyone loves the way they sound.  If these Bach guys had a really sharp business manager they could really make some dough ;D

Oh, Chromium - don't forget the sanding sealer! It is your best friend ;)  I like the ReRanch spray stuff but just about any type will do.  This will give you an absolute dead smooth surface before you shoot your primer.  If you're already on to this my apologies :-[

chromium

Quote from: Lightyear on August 29, 2009, 09:13:27 PM
Oh, Chromium - don't forget the sanding sealer! It is your best friend ;)  I like the ReRanch spray stuff

That's cool- I ordered some of that.  Is it good to use that crosshatch pattern that John mentioned when leveling the s&s and primer coats?  or is that just recommend for the final wet sanding?  Their tutorial didn't speak to which sanding patterns to use (with the grain, crosshatch, etc...)

Here's a shot of my materials, in order of operations from left to right:
(bondo, grain filler, s&s, primer, ocean turquoise, clear, compound)



I'm still going to use the bartleys on the edges and the belly contour on the back.  The "mahogany" is very porous.  I'm not planning to use it on the maple, though.  Kinda relieved I won't have to do a lot of pore filling afterall!   ;)

Barklessdog

The cross hatch is best after the wood is sealed, or primed once grain is not a factor.

drbassman

I always spray vertically for everything, but flat for metallic makes sense (I haven't done one of those yet!).  I use naptha for wet sanding instead of water.  It works as well as water and won't crack any holes in the body.
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

godofthunder

Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird

Lightyear

Yep, use your fancy sanding pattern once you're to top coats - I use kind of figure eight pattern myself.  The sanding sealer turns to dust the second you touch it with sandpaper - I bet 50% or more gets sanded off - it really helps getting the final few pores leveled off.

chromium

Thought I'd post some more pics along the way, for the benefit of any other newbies who may want to try this.  I have no idea how this is going to turn out! :o   Please let me know if you see me doing anything stupid!   ;D   (besides the obvious act of stripping a perfectly good guitar  ;D)

Did the bondo-ing last night, and block sanded it smooth today.  The screw holes (the original BaCH PG, TRC, tuners, and tailpiece) filled nicely, as did the couple of spots on the lower bout - were some factory filler had come out during stripping.




I tackled the pore filling this afternoon:




...wiping it on against the grain, using my fingers to work it in:




Man I can see where this would get tedious doing a whole guitar made of maho!  


Here it is after the first coat, with the excess wiped off:





I'm going out now to apply the second coat, and leave it sit overnight.

Hornisse


Highlander

Deep joy, Joe... guess what my Thunderbird appears to be made of...   :o (Dave's advice is maho)
The random mind of a Silver Surfer...
If research was easy, it wouldn't need doing...
Staring at that event horizon is a dirty job, but someone has to do it; something's going to come back out of it one day...

Lightyear

Looking good.  I despise doing grain filling - I curse myself everytime I do a project that requires it.  This is why most of my furniture builds are now cherry and maple ;D 

BTW - I get my best results with grain filling using an old credit card.  Not to say that I still don't do a fair to middlin' job but for me credit card is the right size and stiffness

shadowcastaz

Tinted sheet rock mud is Much easier ,I must add, for grain filling. Nice to see her nekked though . Turquoise is your final color? Nice!

I did a p bass and top coated with tinted nitro . Great color.
It takes a very deep-rooted opinion to survive unexpressed

uwe

Fascinating to see. Will it eventually start growing leaves?
We've taken too much for granted ... and all the time it had grown ...
From techno seeds we first planted ... evolved a mind of its own ...