Lyle SG-Clone just arrived...

[Pilgrim]

I picked up this little gem on Ebay for $85 including shipping.  The seller said in the auction that he thought it was the wrong neck, but on asking, I learned that he just thought the neck should be painted to match the body.  It certainly appears to me that the neck is correct and original. That's good evidence that the seller knows diddly about guitars and basses, as there is a neck problem that wasn't mentioned in the auction.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=380099502927

It's in good condition overall, but there is a hump in the neck (toward the strings) from the 5th through about the 12th fret.  It's symmetrical, not a sharp hump.  I'm going to loosen the truss rod and put the neck in a simple jig to press it back into straightness.  The bridge is jacked WAY up to get the strings over the hump, and it's actually somewhat playable as is.  I believe the problem can be fixed, and straightening the neck should allow me to bring the bridge back down to a normal height.

I'm a bit of a sucker for this body style, and for Lyle and other Matsumoku basses..and the bass isn't beaten up.  If the neck comes out OK, it could be a pretty fun bass, and the price is right.


Any other suggestions?  I'm traveling through Sunday, so I won't get a chance to post more pix till late that day.

[Chris P.]

It reminds me a bit of Hagstrom basses. Nice.

[Pilgrim]

Yes, I can see the resemblance.  The neck plate is upside down on it, so clearly the neck has been off and someone has played around with it...I'm convinced the neck is the right one.  But given that whoever messed with it wasn't sharp enough to get the plate back on right-side-up, I'm not assuming they knew anything about necks.  The only other obvious problems are that many of the PG screws are missing and some of the tuner mounting screws are missing, but that only requires a trip to the hardware store.  The top hat Vol/Tone knobs are original and in good shape.

[Dave W]

$85 delivered and it's playable. And maybe you can fix the hump. 

[Chris P.]

[Pilgrim]

Dang!  They do look similar....a bit longer upper horn on the Hagstrom, different switches on the top right PG area, and a different output jack.

And I'm curious about Dave's link, but it no workie right now - I get a Yahoo error page.

[Dave W]

And I'm curious about Dave's link, but it no workie right now - I get a Yahoo error page.

Works for me. It's a sound clip you may remember from Young Frankenstein.

[drbassman]

If pressing the neck doesn't work, you could remove the frets around the hump and use a radius block to sand it down, or go nuts and level the entire fret board.  Either way, you haven't invested too much already, so you have some room to work with.  I like the look of these too.

[Pilgrim]

Works for me. It's a sound clip you may remember from Young Frankenstein.

Works now!  Nice!  I would like to reply with a clip from "As Good As It Gets" but I don't have time to set it up at the moment - maybe after I get back from a trip....be traveling next 4 days.

Nice thought on the neck, Dr. Bassman...hopefully that won't be required but it is good to keep in mind.

[Pilgrim]

Some good news!  Last night I finally got time to pull the truss rod cover (yes, sometimes it's a week or two before I can get to this kind of thing...) and back the truss rod nut off all the way - and voila, the hump seems to have essentially disappeared!!

Now I need to get a ferrule for the D-string tuner that's missing one, and a set of strings, and I'll be ready to give it a test drive.  I've been able to lower the bridge way, way down to a normal playing height and tighten up the two strings with working tuners (A & E) and the action appeared to be OK.

I'll keep my fingers crossed about what happens once I get the tension of all four strings on that neck.  I probably backed the truss rod off about 1.5 full turns, so if needed, I might be able to snug it a bit without causing the hump to re-appear.

[nofi]

1.5 turns? i thought conventional wisdom dictated 1/4 turn at a time with a day or so in between to settle.

[Pilgrim]

Normally yes, but my purpose was not to adjust it, but to remove all tension from the truss rod.  No moderation in adjustment needed - just let the neck relax. So I just backed it off until the nut turned freely.

[Dave W]

You might try extra light gauge strings, or at least lighter than normal. That might solve the problem without any chiropractic adjustments.

[Pilgrim]

Excellent idea!  When I get the pieces together I'll go for light gauge strings to reduce the neck loading.  I'm actually hoping that it pulls the neck forward just a little - it's pretty straight in its unloaded condition.  I'll measure the ferrules and get strings and ferrule(s) ordered this weekend, I hope.  Should be a nice change of pace from tearing out the shower stall in one bathroom....

Checking at Juststrings....

My favorite Labella Deep Talkin' Extra Light short scales are .039-.096, cost $43
but Rotosound has the RS77S Jazz Electric Bass Monel Flatwound Short Scale, .040-.090, $35
and GHS has the #3020 Precision Flatwound 30-31" Scale, .045-.095, Precision Flatwound, $24

I have a set of Rotosounds on one of my basses....and GHS on another.  I keep forgetting which, but I like both.  I think I'm pretty easy when it comes to strings.  but I could try something radical and put rounds on it.

Naaaaah.

[drbassman]

TI Jazz flats are the lightest gauge going.  They make a 32" scale set.