The Last Bass Outpost

Thank you Rob, Uwe and BkylnKen for you sincere consideration of my plight. I have initially obtained the '89 (a beat up and manged instrument. However the important parts, neck, pickups and electronics all right and survived blizzards and all ready on the front lines for duty. A special mention here has to go to our queen, Mark who kindly advised me of the merits of the '89 (details you are all supposed to be aware of) and he assisted me across the line. I will only make one necessary change to the instrument and that will be to replace the bridge with a BLACK Babicz. (sorry Mark but I have to also keep a little more than arms length of Uwe who has the gumption to remove anyone with a simple flick of a finger and with a smile). This is a real player and and transcends the common beliefs that they are one trick sounding instruments. The sound comes from your soul y'all. Also at the beginning of this thread I mentioned a quandary with the '89 and a 2015 (De Cola). I might also take a sip of Cola at the expense of a P and a J to make that happen. I'll be more patient this time with the pickup and bridge setting and still be able to bend some strings.

I'm in a slight quandary considering a 1989 TBIV (pretty beat up and obviously played but everything working and it doers have let's say mojo).
On the other hand a gently used 2015 TBIV (DeColas and Babicz).
I had one of the 2015's when they first were released and liked everything about the bass and of course the options presented by the coil switches.
However I could never get the string setting quite right with respect to the DeCola pole pieces 'magnetic strength' which caused a chorus effect. However now considering giving it another go, and really working with the Babicz and neck angle.
I'm trying to slim down the collection and the 2015 covers some tonal ground, but the 1989 has the classic TB+(I could always just drop in a Babicz, which I like them more than the 3 point, of which I have had many)
They both are 8 lbs. which is what the doctor ordered. It's not usual to have both of these options right in front of me.

I have an old '55 Precision with a single coil Seymour Duncan. Now this was done 20 years ago and I forget all the details, however it has that hum. I'm thinking start with shielding and see how that goes and if still there replace the pup, maybe a Lindy Fralin '51 which supposedly would drop right in. Any one here have any suggestions for a better procedure or parts? Thanks

In this case I think this might be The Last Bass Post and we all just go home and ponder what has just happened and have a gentle aperitif.

This was in some music magazine about 7-10 years ago. He was a producer based in Nashville. He mentioned about this model of Silvertone bass. He always keeps one in the studio and when he travels it's the one instrument he brings with him. He was not  a bass player per se. I recall it made me pull out my Silvertone 1444 (which is the one lipstick pickup tolex version). It has become one of my top 3 basses. Great sound. The double lipstick solid version mentioned here is a killer bass.

These are great basses and bely their name and looks. Referring to a comment made by a producer once on the double pickup version of this Silvertone "they eat P basses alive".

As a fan of CAN & Holger Czukay I always saw pictures of him w/the Mustang and a Jazz. I should go back and listen to the tonal differences. Maybe the earlier incarnations if CAN he was using the Mustang...? In any case I saw him live a couple of times where it was just him playing keyboards, Stratocaster, radios and a telephone solo.

OK..I'll tell all. I had a '67-'68 Mustang Competition Stripe in Candy Apple Red. I had bought it for my daughter and she liked it through elementary and high school. She took up the double bass in that period and had gone on and was not interested in it and told me to do what I wanted with it. It stayed in its case for years. For me I did not care for red basses and it weighed 10.5 lbs. I ended up selling it locally. Last year I was in a music store and saw a Daphne Blue Mustang on the wall. Took it down and found quite a connection with it surprisingly. Now just before I dodge the flying garbage and beer cans I'll say I did purchase it and like it quite a lot. It is a Mustang JMJ, nice balance and weight 7.5 lbs) not to mention sounds good of course. Only change I made is some tape wounds. Yes, it's road worn, but did not phase me in the least.

I ordered it on Amazon. At first it said delivery in 2-3 weeks.At the end of December after a week overdue, I called Amazon. I was told "yes, there seems to be some holdup with the book, and I was not the first person to enquirer about the delivery/delays". I cancelled because my local bookshop had it on the shelf.

They were the standard open Fender tuner on a '55 Fender Custom shop Precision. The bass was somewhat reliced and so those tuners were consistent with that. They were never so easy to turn and were heavy. That is why I replaced them with the Gotoh resolites (recommended by someone here on the post). The resolites immediately cancelled out the neck heavy aspect. So you are saying I should soak them in WD-40? I'm assuming as it eventually loosens up from this, to disassemble the whole tuner and steel bush off the rust and getting into the grooves and then afterwards do the petroleum jelly treatment? Thanks

I replaced the original keys on a Fender Custom shop Precision with some Gotoh Resolite keys. I put the original keys in a sealed plastic bag. Going through my parts cabinet the other day I noticed that they had completely rusted and would not even turn! Any 'solutions' or advice how to reverse this? thanks

What I would definitely say Yamaha buying Ampeg is good news. Going forward we can expect some hopefully some innovations and 100% improved quality control. I would say they are a conservative company but with each step they have proven a quality development. Interesting to see the bass guitar impact they will have besides amps.

Does that mean Epiphone goes down with them? Most of their instruments are made in Japan, Korea and China?

I want to replace the keys on my Epi Jack Casady (it is a proto type but all the hardware is the same as the JC Sig). Any body know which keys might just drop in? I'm looking to use lighter keys. I already have the replacement bridge for the 3 point, but I won't open up that discussion up here.
Thanks

Congratulations on all fronts. Great to have your children around to support both ways. Never give up.