Siamese JAEbirds

[dadagoboi]

I use a drawknife, or did until just breaking out the PorterCable after seeing how Fender did the originals.  Just takes doing a few in a row to get the technique down.  I'll post a pic of the results when I get out of the shop, and the drawknife too.

Re the pocket/bridge jig, working on that at the moment...what I find better than a vix is making the drill press into a "pin" drill press and using a template with that.  Again will get some pix when I sort things out.

[godofthunder]

 I didn't catch that in the Fender video   Porter Cable what? Belt sander, Disc sander? Once I have mine roughed in I use My Ryobi 18v sander

[dadagoboi]

I didn't catch that in the Fender video  Porter Cable what? Belt sander, Disc sander? One I have mine roughed in I use My Ryobi 18v sander

That's some beautiful mahogany and work, Scott!

Fender used a modified stroke sander.  My Porter Cable is a 4"x36" with 80 grit belt sander, pulls 10.6 amps.  We used to attach extension cords and race them at the speaker cabinet shop I worked at in the early 80s.  This one was less than $100 on Ebay, new maybe $250. turned on its side and clamped to the workbench it works pretty well as an edge sander.  I also have a Ryobi 3x24 but it doesn't have the grunt.

The draw knife has a very slight radius, works pretty well, I've used it on the previous JAEbirds using the same drawn radiuses on the back and side you did.  With the belt sander I hold my elbows in and pivot my torso.  Come on down, I'll give you a lesson.




This is the jig I came up with for locating bridges, those are 1/8" brass pins sharpened in 1/8" holes .  Give  them a tap and the holes are located enough for wood screws.

[godofthunder]

Geeze I have some draw knives hanging in the carriage house, never thought to use them ! Come on down? I just might take you up on that !

[Lightyear]

That's what I was thinking about as well Carlo.  I still think that you save steps, and time, and eliminiate variability by using a centering bit and drilling the holes while the jig is on the body.    

[dadagoboi]

I agree with you, Buzz.  The template shown is strictly for drilling the bridge holes.  The template for cutting the pups/neck pocket mounts on the back and pin routed before the perimeter is shaped.  Once I'm sure these bridge holes are going to work consistently they'll be transferred to that jig and will be done with the pups/neck pocket. 

There's a slight innaccuracy with the pin router, 1 mm at the neck end off the centerline becomes 3 at the bridge but I think I may have it sorted out.

[Lightyear]

I half expect you to come up with a used CNC setup here pretty fast - don't put too much energy into the jigs

[drbassman]

Hey Carlo, now that I have my pin router set up the with the router under the table, which type of spiral bit would you recommend for it?  Upcut or downcut version?

[Lightyear]

I have used both.  The down cut will give you a cleaner cut edge but will clog much faster as it drives the trimmings down into the channel it's cutting.  The upcut bit won't clog as quickly but can cause some tearout.

[drbassman]

I have used both.  The down cut will give you a cleaner cut edge but will clog much faster as it drives the trimmings down into the channel it's cutting.  The upcut bit won't clog as quickly but can cause some tearout.

Figures!  There's no perfect solution.  If I use a downcut and the template is on top, wouldn't the trimmings just fall down anyway?

[dadagoboi]

Figures!  There's no perfect solution.  If I use a downcut and the template is on top, wouldn't the trimmings just fall down anyway?

Onsrud recommends upcut, if you think about it on an upside down router up is down which is what you want.  The Onsrud has a great chip removal system so I haven't had a problem with tearout.  There's a place close to me that resharpens solid carbide bits for $18.

This is the best price I've found on bits
http://www.cncroutercentral.com/CNC-Router-Onsrud-bits-52-200.asp

[drbassman]

Onsrud recommends upcut, if you think about it on an upside down router up is down which is what you want.  The Onsrud has a great chip removal system so I haven't had a problem with tearout.  There's a place close to me that resharpens solid carbide bits for $18.

This is the best price I've found on bits
http://www.cncroutercentral.com/CNC-Router-Onsrud-bits-52-200.asp

Thanks, I placed an order this morning. Those are good prices.  Also ordered a bigger router with 1/2" collet for the bigger bits.

[Lightyear]

Figures!  There's no perfect solution.  If I use a downcut and the template is on top, wouldn't the trimmings just fall down anyway?

The downcut will only clog the cut if you're cutting in captive spaces - like mortises and dados or neck pockets and pickup cavities   Edges trimmings and shallow cuts wouldn't be a problem.

[drbassman]

The downcut will only clog the cut if you're cutting in captive spaces - like mortises and dados or neck pockets and pickup cavities   Edges trimmings and shallow cuts wouldn't be a problem.

Makes sense!  That's even better since most cavities will be mostly pickups and controls.  Thanks!

[Lightyear]

Oh yeah, kind of my opinion here but, I like 1/2 inch bits run at slower speeds.  I get less tear out and less heating/burning.  The bits cost more but I think last longer -  the return is worth it.