Repairing EB-0 headstock crack

[Pilgrim]

What I have is a '64 EB-0 with a G-string tuner area headstock crack, (perhaps 2 or three) but not a full headstock break.




It doesn't look like it's going to be too difficult to repair, but I sure want to get it right the first time...don't want to deal with glue from a failed repair.

I'm thinking:

1) Remove tuners
2) Evaluate clamping areas - make cauls to fit if needed...this looks like an almost flat clamping area, although it extends below the headstock a bit.
3) Use syringe to inject copious amounts of Titebond (original) throughout cracked areas
4) Clamp, wipe and be patient for 24+ hours.

Suggestions, comments, encouragement?

[Dr. Aquafresh]

Looks like a pretty straight forward repair, seems to be a common issue with the beloved Gibson. In the plus column, it will never break there again after you repair it right.

Not that I am recommending it but you may want to keep an open mind about not breaking it off all the way and then re-gluing it. Of course, I'm not looking at it so I cant say for sure. Lots of good info on the web that may be helpful to you. I'm sure you have done a lot of homework already.

I bet it's going to be great when it's all said and done.

[Dr. Aquafresh]

Here is one that looks a little like what you got, looks like they were able to do it with out having to snap it all the way off.

http://www.timeelect.com/headstock.htm

[Pilgrim]

As you say, I've been doing some looking for repair techniques - I found that link and they did a superb job.  I thought about that, and checked ReRanch - they do sell the Gibson cherry lacquer in a rattle can at $16.  Makes it not worth firing up my air compressor and airbrush.  The critical part is getting a perfect glue joint - I'm not scared by the touch up/refin afterwards.

I'm also considering having a luthier do it - but if I throw in $100 there, then a pickup, then a bridge, the price starts to get high.

I'll be interested to see what comments I get.  I won't have a chance to get into the crack and really check it out until this evening or tomorrow evening.

[godofthunder]

Your approach is perfect ! Go for it !

[drbassman]

Al, I would clamp the top of the headstock ina vise, and gently pull on the neck to open the crack a little and take a good in there.  If you see lots of raw wood and no major signs of old glue, then injecting it is exactly what I would do.  If you see lots of old glue, then the Titebond may not hold properly.  Then you have to consider how cleaning it out might go for you.

[Pilgrim]

Al, I would clamp the top of the headstock ina vise, and gently pull on the neck to open the crack a little and take a good look in there. 

...and hopefully not hear a loud crunch, right?   

That seems like a decent idea to get a look at what the situation is.

[drbassman]

...and hopefully not hear a loud crunch, right?   

That seems like a decent idea to get a look at what the situation is.

Have a magnifier and bright light handy when you do it!  Just don't get too aggressive!   

[godofthunder]

Al, I would clamp the top of the headstock ina vise, and gently pull on the neck to open the crack a little and take a good in there.  If you see lots of raw wood and no major signs of old glue, then injecting it is exactly what I would do.  If you see lots of old glue, then the Titebond may not hold properly.  Then you have to consider how cleaning it out might go for you.

Good point Bill ! I was thinking that it hadn't been repaired.

[Highlander]

My concern is (what looks like) the two cracks (hopefully in the fin) that extend under the tuner and cross the primary crack - the two I had in the neck of the PC turned out to be only in the fin, but no way of knowing for sure until I stripped the fin...

Other than that, looks like a fairly straightforward job... (fin-gers crossed)

[Pilgrim]

I'm 90% sure it has not been repaired, but there's always room for surprises.  No external evidence of a repair at all!

[drbassman]

I'm 90% sure it has not been repaired, but there's always room for surprises.  No external evidence of a repair at all!

That's positive!

[dadagoboi]

Go for it.  Original titebond is only recommended for perfectly mated surfaces.  According to the mfr. it has zero strength in filled gaps, so you might research other options.  That said, I have used it in less than perfect situations and it's always worked.

The possibility of multiple cracks would have me a little concerned, I'd try careful clamping dry first with minimum pressure to get a better idea of the situation. 

I don't mind seeing the scars of a properly done repair, to me it looks better than an almost opaque layer of toner.  I'd airbrush vs rattlecan for something like that, you have a lot more control.

[jumbodbassman]

Stew mac has some thinner faster drying glues that worked pretty good for a few neck repairs i have done although non were that bad.  they aren't cheap but have seemed to work well for me.

[Pilgrim]

Stew-Mac carries good stuff. Interesting note on the Titebond. I'll see how closely I can mate the sides of the break. If in doubt I'll consider an epoxy, but I sure like the easy clean-up of wiping off Titebond.