tinting an already applied clear coat

poomwah · February 14, 2009, 08:28:08 AM

are there any techniques or products that allow you to stain or tint a clear coat that is already cured? maybe sand the clear until its "frosty" then apply dye?
transparent paint. any ideas?

Lightyear · February 14, 2009, 07:38:16 PM

Are you here in the states? If so the Guitar Reranch sells tinted and ambered nitro laquer as well as, I think, a spray amber dye. If you are outside of the states you won't be able to get this due to shipping regs.

poomwah · February 15, 2009, 08:31:38 AM

thanks :]
unfortunately, the bass I want to tint is already antique amber. I'm hoping to give it a black cherry look without stripping it and starting over

Lightyear · February 15, 2009, 09:13:25 AM

Mmmmm, I see. Reranch at one point had a Vintage Cherry spray dye that you shot over a scratch coat of clear nitro - last I knew they did not carry it any longer. Certainly a cherry dye or cherry tinted laquer over the amber would look a bit different. One thing to worry about would be compatability between the finishes if you did not want to strip the old finish.

Dave W · February 15, 2009, 09:43:56 AM

A coat of shellac between would eliminate bonding or compatibility problems in most cases. There's still a major problem, and that's not being able to predict what it will look like. You couldn't tell by testing on scrap because that wouldn't be over the original finish.

And even if it looks fine, how many coats and clearcoats would you apply? You could wind up with a thick film. I'm well known for saying that it won't affect tone, but thick finishes generally don't look good.

Lightyear · February 15, 2009, 08:34:09 PM

Yep, and the Gibson Cherry color is a hard one to match as well.

poomwah · February 15, 2009, 09:50:04 PM

I got such a great deal on the bass.... it was normally 600, on clearance for 300, and I talked them down to 250 due to buckle rash (which I already rubbed out), and some wear on the finish on bridge. Maybe I should sell it for a profit and buy a black cherry one :\

Dave W · February 16, 2009, 10:08:11 AM

I guess that depends on what bass you're talking about and how much you like it otherwise.

I can't imagine refinishing a new bass. If I really disliked the finish enough to want to refinish it right away, I wouldn't buy it, even with a super deal.

poomwah · February 16, 2009, 02:38:55 PM

Quote from: Dave W on February 16, 2009, 10:08:11 AM
I guess that depends on what bass you're talking about and how much you like it otherwise.

I can't imagine refinishing a new bass. If I really disliked the finish enough to want to refinish it right away, I wouldn't buy it, even with a super deal.

the color is my only complaint about the bass, otherwise I really like it. changing a color doesn't scare me and doesn't deter me from passing up a good deal, whether it be a bass, a bike, or a car... if its what I want and the only thing wrong is the color, I'll make it the color I want

Pilgrim · February 16, 2009, 04:30:18 PM

I don't think you're going to have success going over an existing finish. I think you should plan on complete disassembly, stripping the finish, then starting from the ground up, either staining the wood or applying tinted clear lacquer.

The red on this fretless I refin'd was intended to be somewhere in the vicinity of Gibson Cherry Red - I used Stew-Mac's red tint in clear acrylic lacquer over a couple of coats of metallic silver. I was actually going for a classic "Candy Apple Red" finish...and ended u pretty close. But the first couple of coats scared me - it was PINK until at least the 4th coat. I think I ended up with about 6-7 coats of red-tinted lacquer on this.

poomwah · February 16, 2009, 07:48:04 PM

wow pilgrim... that is a BEAUTIFUL job .

Pilgrim · February 16, 2009, 10:35:48 PM

Thanks kindly...but it may help make the point - the final finish is only as good as what's underneath. I spent many hours stripping, sanding and sealing, then sanding again, before applying a base coat, then the silver, then the rest. If you want a good looking finish on your instrument, I really think that you will need to strip it down and do it right. I only spent $60 on that bass originally - bought it in a pawn shop covered with black runny spray paint and with half its hardware missing. I'd guess that 40 or 50 hours of labor later....there it is.

ramone57 · February 17, 2009, 04:59:42 AM

love the red & black burst, very nice!

poomwah · February 17, 2009, 06:58:27 AM

Quote from: Pilgrim on February 16, 2009, 10:35:48 PM
Thanks kindly...but it may help make the point - the final finish is only as good as what's underneath. I spent many hours stripping, sanding and sealing, then sanding again, before applying a base coat, then the silver, then the rest. If you want a good looking finish on your instrument, I really think that you will need to strip it down and do it right. I only spent $60 on that bass originally - bought it in a pawn shop covered with black runny spray paint and with half its hardware missing. I'd guess that 40 or 50 hours of labor later....there it is.

I'm normally not worried about stripping a body, done it a lot of times before, BUT, never done it on something with binding, or a quilted top. I'm terrified of melting or gouging up the binding, or somehow separating the veneer from the body.

Pilgrim · February 17, 2009, 08:56:05 AM

Quote from: poomwah on February 17, 2009, 06:58:27 AM
I'm normally not worried about stripping a body, done it a lot of times before, BUT, never done it on something with binding, or a quilted top. I'm terrified of melting or gouging up the binding, or somehow separating the veneer from the body.

Good point. I'm sure that others on this list can offer sage advice about quilted and veneer tops. I have never tackled one of them, and you sure don't want to cause any separation.