The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: drbassman on April 21, 2013, 11:42:25 AM
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I'm starting to plan the new bass I'm gonna build in May. It's similar to the 4005, but not an exact copy. It will be this design:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Builds%20and%20Refurbs/DocBass_A_centerlines1_zpse7c31fbb.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Builds%20and%20Refurbs/DocBass_A_centerlines1_zpse7c31fbb.jpg.html)
The body will be a hollowed out mahogany, like the Midtown/RIC design. A flat top. I'm thinking spruce with a raised (about 1/8") mahogany strip down the middle (ala T-Bird), wide enough to accomodate a single Thunderbucker pup and ring. F-holes will probably be there as well. I am also toying with the idea of a string through design to eliminate the need for a tailpiece and use some sort of Tune-o-matic or Scott's TB style bridge. I think it might be cool to have the strings coming up through the mahogany stripe. Bolt on necks for the first few runs. Natural finish, clear coat.
What do you think? I'm thinking of calling it the Dr. ROCit model. ;D
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Here's a quick look at the wood and hardware.............
I'll also play with some maple instead of spruce tops as well.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Builds%20and%20Refurbs/3f5b2e5d-bd7a-4082-9062-b27eab1fb456_zps8b100995.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/Builds%20and%20Refurbs/3f5b2e5d-bd7a-4082-9062-b27eab1fb456_zps8b100995.jpg.html)
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I like it! What pickup placement are you going to use ?
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I like it! What pickup placement are you going to use ?
Placement would be same as my 60's NR. What do ya think?
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Very cool!!!
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Very cool!!!
Thanks Chris. I'll share more as things progress.
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Looks great Doc.
I think the maple might blend better with the Maho
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Looks great Doc.
I think the maple might blend better with the Maho
I'll keep that in mind. It would brighten up the sound a bit. I've always been a fan of spruce grain but mple,is a good choice too.
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Looks cool Doc. Ive been absent for some time. I have some old growth redwood burl you could re-saw for a top.Hope UR well.M
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Whatever you decide on the wood, I like the idea of going string-through. And you know I like the shape.
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Placement would be same as my 60's NR. What do ya think?
That's where I'd put one!
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Looks cool Doc. Ive been absent for some time. I have some old growth redwood burl you could re-saw for a top.Hope UR well.M
Hey great to hear from you again! Thanks for the wood offer, I'll keep that in mind. I am doing great. All my tests are normal these days, so life is good and God's been great to me. Hope all is well in your corner of the world!
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That's where I'd put one!
It's gotta be good there!
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Whatever you decide on the wood, I like the idea of going string-through. And you know I like the shape.
Yeah, I think a string through would be cool looking and sound good as well. Gonna work on that angle.
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That's a nice, original body style. You mentioned an f hole. I think a Ric-style cats eye cutout would look good on this.
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That's a nice, original body style. You mentioned an f hole. I think a Ric-style cats eye cutout would look good on this.
Yeah, I'll probably do something similar without doing an exact copy so they don't get on my case!
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Would a cut-out similar to your logo work...?
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that is your prettiest body yet. don't worry about the ric pinheads. this is your art.
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Would a cut-out similar to your logo work...?
Not sure, that would probably be pretty hard to execute. I'm thinking a modifies cat's eye style.
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that is your prettiest body yet. don't worry about the ric pinheads. this is your art.
Thanks! Since I'm not copying it directly, I don't see any issues. The headstock will also not be anything like a RIC. Probably 4 in-line, Fenderish for the first run or two. I wish I could take credit for the body design. Chucker guitars owner, Chuck, did the design for me. I told him what I wanted and he nailed it! He's very talented.
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I like the body shape. Your projects always turn out great!
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I like the body shape. Your projects always turn out great!
Thanks, I'm hoping they do too!
I have been thinking about the wood and I think I am going to keep the raised center, ala TB, but not mix woods.
I also think my first model will be a cherry finish, ala Gibson.
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Thanks, I'm hoping they do too!
I have been thinking about the wood and I think I am going to keep the raised center, ala TB, but not mix woods.
I also think my first model will be a cherry finish, ala Gibson.
Even better I think! More options in the future as to finish etc. without going nuts.
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Even better I think! More options in the future as to finish etc. without going nuts.
I think my finish offerings will be natural, amber tinted, cherry tinted, black or white. I'll start off slow with just the tints at first. We'll see how it goes.
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Kliras have beautiful cat's eye F holes! (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/newklira001.jpg)
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Actually Scott, I was thinking something along that line so as not to be too close to a RIC cat's eye like the one on the 4005. I'll give you a call and maybe I can swap you a spray gun for a tracing next week!
Kliras have beautiful cat's eye F holes! (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/newklira001.jpg)
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Anytime Bill!
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love the body shape.
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I think my finish offerings will be natural, amber tinted, cherry tinted, black or white. I'll start off slow with just the tints at first. We'll see how it goes.
;D ;D ;D
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I think an upside-down Swoosh-hole would look nice. You could line the inside of the bass with some interesting wallpaper...
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the nike bass? as a kid i lived 12 miles from nyc. there was a nike missle site next to the local drive in. the city was surrounded by these things as the cold war went ape shit.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=nike+missile&qpvt=nike+missile&FORM=IGRE
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I think an upside-down Swoosh-hole would look nice. You could line the inside of the bass with some interesting wallpaper...
I like that! Maybe a little narrower, so as to obviate the need for wallpaper! I was thinking just one f hole and maybe a small pickguard. Lots of ideas out there to work with, thanks!
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Very nice, thanks Ilan. I might just use your ideas.
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Hey Ilan. How would it look if I mounted the two control knobs on the back of the pickguard rather than in the body?
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Probably a better idea. MS Paint is a lot easier than real-life design considerations...
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How would it look if I mounted the two control knobs on the back of the pickguard rather than in the body?
It works nicely for P-basses. And it lets you add or subtract knobs with a PG change.
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It works nicely for P-basses. And it lets you add or subtract knobs with a PG change.
Yeah, it also means no screwing with an access plate in the back or fishing stuff through a bottom f-hole. Easy to do mods or repairs too. I think this is the way to go.
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Yeah, it also means no screwing with an access plate in the back or fishing stuff through a bottom f-hole. Easy to do mods or repairs too. I think this is the way to go.
There is considerable virtue to not needing that access hatch!
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There is considerable virtue to not needing that access hatch!
I agree! Although I've not always been a fan of big pick guards covering nice looking wood either. So I'm always conflicted here! I still might drop back to no pickguard if I can't get it to grab me aesthetically.
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Here's the first template.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0981_zps338ebbd0.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0981_zps338ebbd0.jpg.html)
Now some mock ups. The neck and pick up positions are only approximate right now. Thanks to Ilan for the pg idea and Scott for the Klira f-hole pic I used to make this copy.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0985_zpsd8fcda35.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0985_zpsd8fcda35.jpg.html)
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Very nice! Working hard to day Bill or getting a head start on retirement? ;)
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I like that look a lot. My only concern might ne the top knob getting in the way. If you were to swing the cut away part of your PG template toward the bottom a bit more you could set the pots more horizontally.
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I like that look a lot. My only concern might ne the top knob getting in the way. If you were to swing the cut away part of your PG template toward the bottom a bit more you could set the pots more horizontally.
I agree, but I don't want it getting any larger. I am starting to lean toward an access panel in the back and a clean top. I'd like the knobs even farther back. And I'm thinking a second f-hole would be nice. Hmmmm.........
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Very nice! Working hard to day Bill or getting a head start on retirement? ;)
You bet your humbucker! I worked 3 nights this week, so I'm playing hooky. Come mid-May, I'm gonna be working on this bass a lot!
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I keep going back to my original build with my clone and I like this too.........
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0988_zps5e80211b.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0988_zps5e80211b.jpg.html)
Or this...............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0987_zpsaa0e51a0.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0987_zpsaa0e51a0.jpg.html)
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I like the one f hole design. The controls I would like in a straight line parallel to the strings but that's just me.
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I like the one f hole design. The controls I would like in a straight line parallel to the strings but that's just me.
I like the one f hole better too. Changing the knobs could work too. ;D
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It's defiantly a NR Thunderbird thing. Don't base your decision on my input.........................it won't have any bearing for about 30 years.
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No problem, I like the NR thing. In fact, over time, it could evolved. My first two, one all mahogany and one all maple, will sort of be current parts basses for starters to see how things shake out. Then I'll standardized things once I'm happy with the configurations.
The pickguard is the hardest decision to make. I like it for control cavity reasons, but I prefer to see more of the top. This is the hardest decision thus far. All the other stuff is pretty close to settled.
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Bill,
Consider nailing down where the bridge and neck pocket need to be. That will save you a lot of time with the more arbitrary elements, like pickguard, control locations and pickup placement. They will start to tell you where they need to be once you have the sorted out stuff that has to be in a certain place.
What is the scale?
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One hole fits the bill, Bill... ;)
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Bill,
Consider nailing down where the bridge and neck pocket need to be. That will save you a lot of time with the more arbitrary elements, like pickguard, control locations and pickup placement. They will start to tell you where they need to be once you have the sorted out stuff that has to be in a certain place.
What is the scale?
Good points Carlo. I am waiting on a neck i bought to use to set up the dimensions and distances. I'm trying to keep my costs down for the first few then settle on the final design and materials if they are received favorably. Once I figure out where I'm headed with this, I'll work with you on parts. I will want to standardize everything possible as soon as I can to keep labor manageable. You can relate, I'm sure!
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Good points Carlo. I am waiting on a neck i bought to use to set up the dimensions and distances. I'm trying to keep my costs down for the first few then settle on the final design and materials if they are received favorably. Once I figure out where I'm headed with this, I'll work with you on parts. I will want to standardize everything possible as soon as I can to keep labor manageable. You can relate, I'm sure!
Cool! Looking forward to the build.
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There's a tiny part of me that looks at that humbucker and sees a Thunderbird pup...
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There's a tiny part of me that looks at that humbucker and sees a Thunderbird pup...
That is a TB pup. I have two of them.
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What model...? I don't recognise it...?
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Another vote for the single f-hole look.
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What model...? I don't recognise it...?
That looks a TB Plus from one of the LP Standard, Money Bass, etc type of recent times. I've used 3 of those in my basses and really like them. Aggressive is a good word for them.
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That looks a TB Plus from one of the LP Standard, Money Bass, etc type of recent times. I've used 3 of those in my basses and really like them. Aggressive is a good word for them.
Correct! They sound great.
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Cheers Andy, I've placed it now... brain failure... :rolleyes:
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Really nice design Bill. I also really like Ian's single hole w pick guard design.
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Does Gibson sell the tb+ as an aftermarket part, or did it have to come from a scavenged bass?
They are wound to different specs depending on if it's originally a neck or bridge pickup right? Which one are you going with?
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Does Gibson sell the tb+ as an aftermarket part, or did it have to come from a scavenged bass?
They are wound to different specs depending on if it's originally a neck or bridge pickup right? Which one are you going with?
They popped up on eBay a few years ago and I bought 4 of them. No indication whether they were bridge or neck. As I recall, the ohm reading was the same on all of them. I'll have to check the 2 I have left.
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There's two up on e-bay now one gold, one chrome with cream surrounds and described as bridge pickups so I thought there may be a difference. I'm thinking about a custom job with a single pickup as well. Good luck with the build. Looking forward to seeing it develop.
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I bought two of the chrome "bridge" pickups from the guy on Ebay. I used one in my Bach NR and really like it there. it is a single pickup and it seems to work just fine where it is located. Maybe there would be an issue if you used two bridge models on the same bass depending on the wiring?? I have no idea tho. FWIW, I used a gold "neck" and chrome "bridge" in my Epi Goth rebuild (You can't see the mismatched covers because they are loaded in 70's pickup covers.) and they sound great together, but then I think the only real difference is the metal case color.
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Maybe these just came out of the bridge position and are identical to the neck pickups. Or maybe not. I can't find my '93 brochure and don't remember if they described these as coming in separate bridge and neck editions.
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Bridge pickups are generally wound hotter than their neck counterparts, it helps to balance out the difference in energy (string vibration, perceived as loudness) at different points of the string.
Here's the difference between 60's Reverse and NR sets:
The hotter 'bridge' pickup in a Reverse set was moved to the 'neck' position in the NR and a hotter yet pickup was wound for the NR 'bridge'.
Use whatever works for you wherever. 60s pups all use the same magnets. The difference in hotness is due to how much copper is wound on the bobbins. More windings make a hotter (and darker) pickup. All other things being equal the hotter pickup of a pair has higher impedance.
I don't know how Gibson winds their sets these days, they could both be the same. Duncan bass pairs have hotter bridge pups, EMG uses the same exact pickup for both positions. Your mileage may vary.
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Here's the latest. The one issue with the swooping inward design of the bass is the lack of body for mounting of the neck heel. With a set neck, there's no issue, bolt on is another kettle of fish. So, I'll have to have the body extend out under the heel for sufficient mounting surface. It looks like the optimal placement of the neck for mounting purposes is around the 16.5 fret mark. I know it restricts upper most fret access, but it is a compromise of the design. I really don't want to spend hours on end building set necks from scratch!!!
The pickup placement is identical to the spot used on our vintage NR basses. The old sweet spot, as Scott calls it.
I also can't decide on the pickguard vs. no pickguard look. I kind of like my second pickguard attempt in the pics below, but the clean look sure is nice too.
Opinions welcome..........
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0989_zps63fdfedc.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0989_zps63fdfedc.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0990_zpsa2877570.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0990_zpsa2877570.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0991_zps8055d817.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0991_zps8055d817.jpg.html)
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Myownself, I like the visual accent that the PG adds. YMMV.
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I like the p/g too, IMHO in this case it adds to the design.
The neck heel problem is not unusual, you see that extended heel in bolt-on designs based on the LP Junior or SG.
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i think the f hole should go. its the first thing my eye is drawn to and with the p/g it looks out of place. so loose the f hole and keep the p/g for a very clean and simple look. or not.
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Myownself, I like the visual accent that the PG adds. YMMV.
Thanks Al, I'm warming up to it slowly......I do like the idea of mounting the controls on it and skipping a control rout in the back.
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I like the p/g too, IMHO in this case it adds to the design.
The neck heel problem is not unusual, you see that extended heel in bolt-on designs based on the LP Junior or SG.
Thanks Dave. I'll have to do a black mock up of the PG, the orange paper is a bit distracting! Yeah, I'm feeling better about the heel placement and design requirements.
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i think the f hole should go. its the first thing my eye is drawn to and with the p/g it looks out of place. so loose the f hole and keep the p/g for a very clean and simple look. or not.
I'll have to think about the f hole a bit. Since it's a semi-hollow design, I like the f hole look and sound.
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I keep thinking that the f-hole needs to go more to the upper left of the layout, and the hole could be more curved to follow that part of the body. Easy to second guess this stuff when you are looking at a mock-up, not an actual finished product(and I'm not the one doing the work ;)). Whatever you end up with is going to look good tho. I like the overall idea\look of it with the guard too.
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I always loved the 4005 but could never spend the money on such a faulty bass - at least all theones i have played sounded crappy. Yours I like it a lot.. FOR ME - I would move the f hole back toward the bridge seems a lttle too midbody. Need to rethink the neck joint as the 16 fret is very old school and maybe extend the top horn more to help the diver..... IMHO and would be troublesome for anybody who doesn't play reverse tbirds.
also 2 pickup upgrade should be considered
Cherry sunburst an option???
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You could extend the neck out another fret or 2 if you wanted. Visually it looks fine like it is but IMO most players prefer a little more access if possible. You have to weigh whether that is important to you from a marketing standpoint.
There's not a lot of meat supporting this neck and structurally it's not a problem even with 8 strings. Starts out at 1/4" thick (less under the screw ferrules) at the 15th fret and tapers to 3/4"thick at the 18th where it meets the cutaway. Body is poplar. I wanted to see how thin I could get away with, neck screws are 3 different lengths. My NR is similar.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2013%20Eighter/P1020676_zps84930a8d.jpg) (http://s976.photobucket.com/user/cata1d0/media/2013%20Eighter/P1020676_zps84930a8d.jpg.html)
How about if the P/G is similar to a 59-60 EBO, touching the neck and cut around the pup?
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/1960%20EBO/P1040071_zps38e8fe36.jpg) (http://s976.photobucket.com/user/cata1d0/media/1960%20EBO/P1040071_zps38e8fe36.jpg.html)
edit:actually I may be doing something similar on the SS 8er I'm building.
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I keep thinking that the f-hole needs to go more to the upper left of the layout, and the hole could be more curved to follow that part of the body. Easy to second guess this stuff when you are looking at a mock-up, not an actual finished product(and I'm not the one doing the work ;)). Whatever you end up with is going to look good tho. I like the overall idea\look of it with the guard too.
I was thinking of an f hole that totally followed the edge of the body originally. I'll make something to look at.
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Hey Carlo, thanks, I had forgotten about your neck layout on your own design there. I suspect mine will look a little like this. I might edge the neck up a little to the 18th. fret, we'll see how daring I feel!
You could extend the neck out another fret or 2 if you wanted. Visually it looks fine like it is but IMO most players prefer a little more access if possible. You have to weigh whether that is important to you from a marketing standpoint.
There's not a lot of meat supporting this neck and structurally it's not a problem even with 8 strings. Starts out at 1/4" thick (less under the screw ferrules) at the 15th fret and tapers to 3/4"thick at the 18th where it meets the cutaway. Body is poplar. I wanted to see how thin I could get away with, neck screws are 3 different lengths. My NR is similar.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2013%20Eighter/P1020676_zps84930a8d.jpg) (http://s976.photobucket.com/user/cata1d0/media/2013%20Eighter/P1020676_zps84930a8d.jpg.html)
How about if the P/G is similar to a 59-60 EBO, touching the neck and cut around the pup?
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/1960%20EBO/P1040071_zps38e8fe36.jpg) (http://s976.photobucket.com/user/cata1d0/media/1960%20EBO/P1040071_zps38e8fe36.jpg.html)
edit:actually I may be doing something similar on the SS 8er I'm building.
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Hey Carlo, thanks, I had forgotten about your neck layout on your own design there. I suspect mine will look a little like this. I might edge the neck up a little to the 18th. fret, we'll see how daring I feel!
Yeah, I was surprised when I didn't have any problems. The end of the pocket is where the most upward pressure is exerted. The extra pair of screws might help counteract that.
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I always loved the 4005 but could never spend the money on such a faulty bass - at least all theones i have played sounded crappy. Yours I like it a lot.. FOR ME - I would move the f hole back toward the bridge seems a lttle too midbody. Need to rethink the neck joint as the 16 fret is very old school and maybe extend the top horn more to help the diver..... IMHO and would be troublesome for anybody who doesn't play reverse tbirds.
also 2 pickup upgrade should be considered
Cherry sunburst an option???
I think two pups could be an option. Cherry burst is possible as I have done those before.
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Moved the neck out so that the 18th. fret meets the edge of the body. I think it will work fine. I'll be using a 6 screw mounting scheme like yours Carlo. I also made a plywood template for a more permanent piece to work off of.
Broke my bandsaw blade today after 5 years of use! I guess it was time for a change!
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count me in for a celebatory? (always a bad speller) bass when this whole ordeal is over.
Just had a great breakfast meeting with an old boss and maybe my job issue is getting resolved soon too. I had to promise the wife no new basses till I am back to work and healthy of course so just give me a real reason as they say!!!!
Anyone have any idea what a Thunderbucker in a hollow body would sound like??
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How about a Tele control plate?
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count me in for a celebatory? (always a bad speller) bass when this whole ordeal is over.
Just had a great breakfast meeting with an old boss and maybe my job issue is getting resolved soon too. I had to promise the wife no new basses till I am back to work and healthy of course so just give me a real reason as they say!!!!
Anyone have any idea what a Thunderbucker in a hollow body would sound like??
Hey Jim, my pleasure! I'm sure we culd work it out. I hope you can get the job stuff worked out. Sometimes things just happen for inexplicable reasons! I'll be using TV Jones ThunderTrons in these basses.
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How about a Tele control plate?
Well, I give you credit for trying, but I dislike tele plates on anything but a tele. My brain can't process it!
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Hey Jim, my pleasure! I'm sure we culd work it out. I hope you can get the job stuff worked out. Sometimes things just happen for inexplicable reasons! I'll be using TV Jones ThunderTrons in these basses.
i have heard they are great pickups. string spacing is limited i believe so fender/ric spacing may not be available. thats cool for me as i have been thinking about tighter spacing and shorter scales lately but may limit its appeal..
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I think the spacing will be fine. It works on my 4005 clone.
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you the Doc....
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you the Doc....
If it doesn't, I have a backup plan.
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TV Jones Thundertron pole screw spacing (http://tvjones.com/site/wp-content/uploads/TT-POLE-SPACING.pdf) (.pdf)
1.90 in. total center-to-center for the neck pickup, 2.03 in. for the bridge pickup. By comparison, a SCPB pickup is 2.10 in. If you use a Fender-spaced bridge and place the bridge pickup too close to the bridge, you might run into an alignment problem. All depends on where you place the pickups.
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TV Jones Thundertron pole screw spacing (http://tvjones.com/site/wp-content/uploads/TT-POLE-SPACING.pdf) (.pdf)
1.90 in. total center-to-center for the neck pickup, 2.03 in. for the bridge pickup. By comparison, a SCPB pickup is 2.10 in. If you use a Fender-spaced bridge and place the bridge pickup too close to the bridge, you might run into an alignment problem. All depends on where you place the pickups.
Thanks Dave, I saw the PDF.
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(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0989_zps63fdfedc.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0989_zps63fdfedc.jpg.html)
I'd think the f-hole would look better with the fat end at the bottom.
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I'd think the f-hole would look better with the fat end at the bottom.
I do too. ;D
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I'm starting to think that an unconventional S-shaped sound hole would be interesting.
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I'm starting to think that an unconventional S-shaped sound hole would be interesting.
I agree. something like an infinity sign ~
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I'm ahead of you guys already. I sketched something out that follows the contour of the top edge. Here's a quick view. Also cut the first body out. 1.5" sapele, hard beautiful stuff! Will glue up some board later this week for maple and mahogany versions.
Also made the template for the cavity routs. Slow but steady...........
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0992_zps4068aac6.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0992_zps4068aac6.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0993_zps693468b2.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0993_zps693468b2.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0994_zpsfd815dd8.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0994_zpsfd815dd8.jpg.html)
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I'm ahead of you guys already. I sketched something out that follows the contour of the top edge. Here's a quick view. Also cut the first body out. 1.5" sapele, hard beautiful stuff! Will glue up some board later this week for maple and mahogany versions.
Also made the template for the cavity routs. Slow but steady...........
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0992_zps4068aac6.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0992_zps4068aac6.jpg.html)
That's a little straight-sided. Needs to be more curvy and "voluptuous"....
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That's a little straight-sided. Needs to be more curvy and "voluptuous"....
Yeah, my drawing skills suck. I'm going to keep working on it. Gonna keep refining the pick guard too.
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OK, I like the pickguard, but I'm still not sure about the f hole.
I was thinking yesterday that maybe my semi-holllow desgin WITHOUT and f hole would be nice. Kinda Hofner-esque. I'm still working on this angle as well.
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/
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^ That design is from a faux f-hole sticker I found online, http://www.inlaystickers.com/servlet/the-119/F-Hole(Combo-style)-Sticker/Detail
You can use the sticker and have the f-hole look but with less feedback.
My '64 Gretsch 6070 has painted f-holes. Nobody ever notices until I tell them.
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I'm starting to lean toward no f hole unless I see one that knocks me out.
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Big body basses look weird without them.
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Big body basses look weird without them.
i agree, but so far I haven't seen one I like except that darn Ric one from the 4005. It's so clean and simple. I can't get past it.
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why not stop taking suggestions and do it the way you want. after all this your project. who cares if some other folks don't like it.
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why not stop taking suggestions and do it the way you want. after all this your project. who cares if some other folks don't like it.
In the end, I will do as I wish, but I don't mind suggestions and input. Gives me things to mull over. I'm not trying to design a bass by committee. It will be what I want it to be when all is said and done.
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... who cares if some other folks don't like it.
Certainly never stopped Warwick... ;D
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Certainly never stopped Warwick... ;D
Ha, good one!
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Well, the more I look at this particular piece of wood, I love the grain and think it might be better as a solid body instrument. I don't have to do all of them as semi-hollow bodies! ;)
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I'm starting to lean toward no f hole unless I see one that knocks me out.
I prefer the traditional f hole shape, but there were non traditional shapes even hundreds of years ago. Scroll down on the link for a far out f hole design done by Johann Ullrich Eberle in the 18th century.
http://www.stringemporium.com/basscafe.htm
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I prefer the traditional f hole shape, but there were non traditional shapes even hundreds of years ago. Scroll down on the link for a far out f hole design done by Johann Ullrich Eberle in the 18th century.
http://www.stringemporium.com/basscafe.htm
Cool site and f holes! Thanks. I found some others on the net. Lots of ideas out there!
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a far out f hole design done by Johann Ullrich Eberle
These are viola d'amore f-holes.
(http://www.miayf.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/333.jpg)
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Well, I got some plywood scraps out and made an f hole that follows the contour of the upper bout but has a design similar to the Ric one (and a little smaller) and this is what I'm leaning toward.
Also glued up a couple more body blanks.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0996_zps29517ac0.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0996_zps29517ac0.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0997_zpsee6d407f.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0997_zpsee6d407f.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0998_zps39714581.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0998_zps39714581.jpg.html)
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Oh yeah, I also decided no pickguard and a control cavity instead. I can't help it, I love the whole wood look on the front.
The sepele body will have to be hollow, it weighs a ton. I am considering a cap on the back so the current front wood grain is visible. I think it is beautiful.
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I think I'll buy another Warwick just to piss you guys off :mrgreen:
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Does that mean you'll be changing your name too...? ;D
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Hey, this is a "no Warwick zone." :P
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that new f spot works for me :mrgreen:
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that new f spot works for me :mrgreen:
I think that location works better too.
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Well, I got some plywood scraps out and made an f hole that follows the contour of the upper bout but has a design similar to the Ric one (and a little smaller) and this is what I'm leaning toward.
Also glued up a couple more body blanks.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0996_zps29517ac0.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0996_zps29517ac0.jpg.html)
If you want to be a real iconoclast, put two of those next to each other....interesting visual effect.
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Thanks guys, I'm much happier with it. Hmmmmm...two of them close together, now that's an interesting idea!
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Why stop at two?
(http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o632/4stringer77/Joan/Brigitte/washburnabg_zpsfc34d40b.jpg) (http://s1151.photobucket.com/user/4stringer77/media/Joan/Brigitte/washburnabg_zpsfc34d40b.jpg.html)
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Thanks guys, I'm much happier with it. Hmmmmm...two of them close together, now that's an interesting idea!
structural concern???
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structural concern???
If I do a big hole, I'll add a little extra bracing underneath.
I'll post some pictures tomorrow of my ideas.
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I like this placement of the f-hole much better.
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Here ya go.........
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0999_zps1b8e7dd5.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0999_zps1b8e7dd5.jpg.html)
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I like that double design.
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I like that double design.
It's growing on me.
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That double one looks great too.
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That double one looks great too.
I was looking for something unique, and I think we may have hit upon a nice design.
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I definitely like the single hole look better. OTOH with the two holes in that configuration, it will never be mistaken for a Rick.
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No chance of that!
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OK, this is the final design. I'm happy with the look and placement.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN1001_zpsf566d45b.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN1001_zpsf566d45b.jpg.html)
Just thought I'd tease you a little with the pickup I'm going to use..............................
It's the TV Jones ThunderBlade model, but the one I'll use is in a Gibson style ring for better height adjustment capabilities.
(http://tvjones.com/site/wp-content/uploads/TB-DYN-NKL-220x122.png)
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That's a pleasing look. To my eyes, it fits the body curve much better than your first drawing (above).
Have you decided on pickup placement?
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I like it! A tasteful and different choice.
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I like it.
with those pickups you may want and find a neck that is 2 1/4 wide versus the standard 2 1/2 fender too avoid extra wood past the string look/feel.
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That's a pleasing look. To my eyes, it fits the body curve much better than your first drawing (above).
Have you decided on pickup placement?
Thanks Dave. The pup will be in the same spot as an NR TB, around 26.34" IIRC. Will remeasure before I rout it!
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I like it.
with those pickups you may want and find a neck that is 2 1/4 wide versus the standard 2 1/2 fender too avoid extra wood past the string look/feel.
The pup should fit just fine where I'm locating it. If not, we'll go to plan B.
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I like it! A tasteful and different choice.
Thanks Al. All of the ideas and suggestions here helped me arrive at it!
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:thumbsup:
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OK, I had some left over wood to use in the shop, so my first two prototypes will be made from that. The first is a burly maple top on a solid maple body, the second is burly and flame maple on a solid mahogany body with a chamber on the top half of the body.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0035_zpsa5fca994.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0035_zpsa5fca994.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0038_zps464dfab7.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0038_zps464dfab7.jpg.html)
I'll start routing the control cavity and neck pockets later this week.
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OK, I finally got my butt back in the shop. I finish sanded all three prototypes and making them has been a great experience. It's help me clarify in my mind how I want to make basses on down the road. Technique and process are 80% of it!
Here are the three stained bodies and my headstock. Not the best incandescent lighting in my shop. I just might have to keep the semi-hollow for myself!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0660_zpsb45d4975.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0660_zpsb45d4975.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0662_zpsc4465b7c.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0662_zpsc4465b7c.jpg.html)
This one is semi-hollow as well but with carved out chambers. Stain is red mahogany that will really pop and redden with a finish over it. Will have a bolt-on neck. Probably just going with oil on all of these so I can get them on the bay soon.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0664_zps2f3c8887.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0664_zps2f3c8887.jpg.html)
This is the semi-hollow cherry top/back with the bendable sides. Stain is sedona red, one of my faves. going to glue the neck in.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0665_zps6a3baee8.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0665_zps6a3baee8.jpg.html)
Solid body, all maple. Ipswitch stain which is a light honey color. Also going to do a set neck on this one.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0666_zps92c22b02.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0666_zps92c22b02.jpg.html)
So far, so good!!
** Hey Carlo, how have your set necks been working out? Any issues with maple necks glued into mahogany bodies?
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I'm really looking forward to seeing how they turn out!
Ipswitch stain?
From the vast and useless archives of my mind comes Danny Kaye, asking:
"Which witch switch should the Ipswitch witch twitch?"
Try that three times fast...
Then go on to:
"The pellet with the poison's in the vessel with the pestle. The chalice from the palace has the brew that is true!"
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I'm really looking forward to seeing how they turn out!
Ipswitch stain?
From the vast and useless archives of my mind comes Danny Kaye, asking:
"Which witch switch should the Ipswitch witch twitch?"
Try that three times fast...
Then go on to:
"The pellet with the poison's in the vessel with the pestle. The chalice from the palace has the brew that is true!"
Ah, the court jester, no? Ipswitch is just a color name for a Minwax stain. Fancy way of saying light tan!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ9f2rnjB84
Then there was a change...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zIWcCvQNqQ&list=PL76F8F353E4A26D4F&src_vid=TJ9f2rnjB84&feature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_726048
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Looking good, Doc! I haven't had any problem with maple glued into mahogany. How are those Eden necks?
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Very nice...
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Looking good, Doc! I haven't had any problem with maple glued into mahogany. How are those Eden necks?
Thanks Carlo. The Eden necks are nonexistent. Using whatever I have on hand for now.
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Looking good!!
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Looking good!!
Thanks! It's great to be working on them again.
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I really like the figure on the solidbody.
...The Eden necks are nonexistent. Using whatever I have on hand for now.
Why am I not surprised?
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I really like the figure on the solidbody.
Why am I not surprised?
Yep. Lots of promises, no action.
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new bass kicks ass Doc.
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I like all the stains, but the maple solid body is going to have an especially nice look when finished, IMO.
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I finally had time to start some finishing. The hollow body and all maple have two coats of poly, the dark brown body just sanding sealer. Since I'm still in development mode, I decided to try something radical: brush on finishing. Only done it on furniture before, but I just detest not being able to comfortably finish basses in the winter here in upstate NY. I envy you Carlo! There are numerous advantages for me. No need to spend money heating my barn or dragging butt out there in sub-freezing temps through 2 feet of snow. The finish dries in a matter of hours not weeks, a big plus! And, it can be put on thinly but it's durable. There are more steps than spraying, but dry time of 4 hours makes it easy to keep the project rolling along. Wet sanding and the rest is pretty much the same process. We'll see how it goes!
BTW, got one of those nifty Stew-Mac finishing arms/brackets so I can just spin the bodies around while applying the finish. I thought about building one, but I just went for the pre-fab alternative. Nice little tool, works great!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0726_zps560cd0e0.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0726_zps560cd0e0.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0727_zps40e10949.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0727_zps40e10949.jpg.html)
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Looks great, Bill! Whatever works is OK with me!
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Looks great, Bill! Whatever works is OK with me!
Hey thanks Carlo. I know you have humidity down there but dealing with snow and below freezing temps is a real pain! I'm still working on my technique, but it shows promise.
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Here's an idea for you, Bill: guitar spray booth made from a doghouse (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/diy-tool-shed/505255-home-made-guitar-paint-spray-booth-using-doghouse.html)
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Here's an idea for you, Bill: guitar spray booth made from a doghouse (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/diy-tool-shed/505255-home-made-guitar-paint-spray-booth-using-doghouse.html)
Thanks Dave, that's a new one! I've seen them made from cardboard to plastic sheeting. I just don't feel like going through the motions. Besides, the real cost is a good quality fan that is spark-free and moves a lot of cfm.
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I was happy and pissed last night. The finish on the maple top basses is coming along nicely, but the hollow cherry body sucked. I took a chance on the cherry and learned that you must grain fill this wood, just like mahogany. I thought the high build poly I was using would work and it didn't. I ended up with a Gibson-style finish, only worse. So I'm stripping it today and starting over. This reminds me of my first 2 or 3 finishing projects. They all had multiple attempts before I got it right! I should have known better in this case. Fortunately, I really don't mind stripping all that much. I'd rather get it right in the end. Better living through chemistry! :o
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I ended up with a Gibson-style finish, only worse.
ROFL!!
Truth at its most biting. 8)
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ROFL!!
Truth at its most biting. 8)
Yep, who needs another Gibson finish?
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This site has been posting on Craigslist lately. Might be something to check into for your setup. Says no spraying is required.
http://www.wudtoneusa.com/
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This site has been posting on Craigslist lately. Might be something to check into for your setup. Says no spraying is required.
http://www.wudtoneusa.com/
Looks nice, but a bit pricey if you're going to do any quantity at all. A good concept for occasional builders, I think.
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Interesting Disneyesque font and "Welcome to our wonderful world of color." The lawyers at Disney may be working on a challenge.
(http://www.wudtoneusa.com/wp-content/themes/wudtone/images/logo.png)
I was wondering how it was applied - downloaded the instructions and I see it's wipe-on.
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I'm gonna master the brush for now!
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All looking good to me...
I liked the "Azure" on the Wudtone site that Andy linked...
:popcorn:
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I'm gonna master the brush for now!
IMHO that's a much better idea than using Wudtone. I've seen several guitars at the TDPRI that were finished using Wudtone, they looked nice for what they were (i.e. partscasters) but I doubt they would be up to the standard you want for basses you're going to market. Plus, as you pointed out, the materials are expensive.
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IMHO that's a much better idea than using Wudtone. I've seen several guitars at the TDPRI that were finished using Wudtone, they looked nice for what they were (i.e. partscasters) but I doubt they would be up to the standard you want for basses you're going to market. Plus, as you pointed out, the materials are expensive.
For sure. I can do a boatload of basses for $50 in stain and clear coats!
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Just put a coat of poly on both of the maple tops and it's gong well. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos for hints on brushing poly on wood and the most helpful was one that simply said to cut the Minwax poly with mineral spirits (3 to 1 Minwax to mineral spirits). Wow, what a difference it made. Using their product full strength consistently gave me lines in the dried finish, like little washboards. Thinning smoothed them right out and speeds drying time too.
I think I'm getting close to the process I can work with!
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Which of the Minwax polys are you using? The regular oil-based fast-drying?
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Which of the Minwax polys are you using? The regular oil-based fast-drying?
Yep, the fast drying oils. Sure gies on better when thinned.
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Well, I'm going ass-backwards now! I just wasn't impressed with the brush on poly, so.........I stripped everything!!!!! Yep, I'm used to remakes and I just wasn't happy after all of the effort expended. So, I've landed on another system i've used before and we'll see how it works. I'll post more after I get the first coats on. Meanwhile, I have some further prep to do.
Patience is a virtue and I am very virtuous these days!!!! ;)