Fender Saddle Setscrews....

Started by mc2NY, December 28, 2013, 11:13:28 AM

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mc2NY


Wondering what each of you actually do to keep your hand from being torn up by Fender saddle setscrews, that stick up too hih if you drop the action low?

Replace them with shorter ones? Tape a foam strip over them? Stick duct tape over them? Leave on the bridge cover?
Move you right hand away from the brdge and change your playing style? Put a glob of auto bondo on top?

After decades of dealing with this, I figured I'd ask if anyone has a good solution?

drbassman

I like the cover.  I would not change my playing style if I am happy doing what I'm doing.  But if the cover gets in the way of your playing style........
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

FrankieTbird


I haven't personally had any experience with that, but I'd probably shim the neck to where you can adjust the setscrews to sit fairly flush in the saddles.

Pilgrim

I like bridge covers a lot. No problem.
"A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any other invention with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila."

Dave W

I don't play that close to the bridge.

Highlander

(Neck) pickup as a thumb-rest for me but never played close to the bridge so no issue for me...

If the screws were an issue then the remainder of the bridge would be the next issue for someone that played at that end, and anything unless spaced above (like the A tray) would possible end up muting the strings...
I'm aware that JAE had pups replaced if they had to have protruding poles or screws... just would not tolerate that... something PC said years back, first hand comment...
The random mind of a Silver Surfer...
If research was easy, it wouldn't need doing...
Staring at that event horizon is a dirty job, but someone has to do it; something's going to come back out of it one day...

Lightyear

File them - the bottoms of the screws that is.  I would remove the saddles from the bridge and run the set screws out of the bottom of the saddle about half way.  Hold the saddle and carefully grind away the amount that protrudes from the top of the saddle being careful to grind the set screw(s) carefully.   

Pilgrim

Quote from: Dave W on December 28, 2013, 09:10:39 PM
I don't play that close to the bridge.

Good point.  I almost never like the sound playing really close to the bridge.  Playing in between the covers on my P-bass with my thumb anchored on the pickup cover works just right.  If I want a sound with less attack, I often play it by plucking over the base of the neck with my thumb anchored on the side of the neck.

"A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any other invention with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila."

hieronymous

Build up calluses?  :rimshot:

I used to palm-mute a lot in the old days but rarely do now. I always tended to play either over the pickups, close to the neck or over the neck anyway. I remember watching footage of Glenn Hughes playing with Deep Purple at the California Jam ('73 or '74?) and being amazed at how close to the bridge he picked.

mc2NY

It's not like I constantly play up at the bridge....but certain things I do have my hand positioned where the pinky side of my picking hand rest dead on top of the protruding saddle screws ( tearing me up.)

I do sort of banjo/claw style picking parts like that, where my thumb sort of plucks over the PBass PUP closest to the bridge and my other fingers are picking over where the pickguard meets the body. That's when I have trouble with the setscrews. The normal cover gets in the way and puts my hand too high for this.

Also...sometimes if I need to use a pick for something, I also play up in the same area and like to rest my hand where the setscrews  are. I have pretty big hands.

Normal slapping or three finger style is more between the PUP and neck or over the PUPs.

eb2

I play on the bridge a lot, and pick and mute with the heel. I only have one Fender with screws that stick out like that. I live with it but I could get shorter screws.
Model One and Schallers?  Ish.

eb2

And it's also occurred to me that if you have zero down the saddles - e and g on the deck - and the screws are backed out and sticking out like thorns then you probably could shim your neck. Even a biz card could nudge up the butt end enough that your saddles would adjust higher and be right.
Model One and Schallers?  Ish.

dadagoboi

Quote from: eb2 on January 08, 2014, 07:24:37 AM
And it's also occurred to me that if you have zero down the saddles - e and g on the deck - and the screws are backed out and sticking out like thorns then you probably could shim your neck. Even a biz card could nudge up the butt end enough that your saddles would adjust higher and be right.

Yep.  And get a better break angle in the deal.

mc2NY

I keep my G string really low, hence the saddle screws sticking up a lot.  The E isn't too bad.

It becomes a problem when I am doing a banjo claw type thing with my right hand, where I use my thumb with the first two fingers to pick the strings. I tend to anchor my hand by grabbing onto the G saddle with my pinky when I do that.

It's not like I always play up there. Just when I do certain runs where I use that banjo claw style.
Plus, I have a pretty big hand and reach. So, even when I am doing that, my thumb is still up over the lower PBass PUP.

I guess I can just file down those higher set screws of buy some shorter ones.

Funny, I thought more guys would have run into this problem.

godofthunder

  I just deal with it, my hand gets scratched up a bit. I have encountered this with Badass bridges as well. I have thought about running a bit of electrical tape over them but in the end I can't be bothered.
Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird