i need some help gang - Colby Bass

Started by sniper, September 16, 2010, 07:30:46 PM

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drbassman

Thanks for the kind words CW.  My uncle Joe was a kind gentle soul who lived a simple life and loved his family.  God was, and will be, kind to him I'm sure.
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

drbassman

I've been debating on how to best angle the neck for you.  I have two options:  angle the heel of the neck or angle the neck pocket.  After doing some measuring this moning, the existing heel is too thin and that's been my dilemma.  So, I'm leaning toward adding 5 or 6/32" of maple to the heel and then it will have sufficient thickness.  Once I have some wood to work with, I could plane it to 3 degrees.

If I were to angle the heel pocket, the neck heel is still too thin.  So, having a thicker heel will help.  I'll think about it some more before I decide.

I've been wanting to build one of those jigs for doing an angled heel pocket anyway.  So I still might go that route.
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

sniper

one could always do the "third option" add about an inch and make it a set neck after fitting it? just a thought. it would cut down on the thickness of the joint, you could still make your jig and it would prolly fit my small hands better, making for better upper fret access. totally your option. to answer a question about setting the neck deep (thickness wise) that you ask in your email last night, setting it deep enough to meet the fretboard to the body is no problem as far as i am concerned. it would cut down on bridge height needed but your layout drawing should make the tale definative.

might make it a bit more resonant and make Uwe happy? the brown note earschplittenloudenboomer player supported my question about differently stringing the same bass this morning so i have to return the favor. he has been very supportive of me in the past.
I can be true to you sweety until I find a nice medium scale with great breasts. ... CW

drbassman

Yeah, I should be able to do a drawing tonight or tomorrow.  I'm keeping all options open!  If I were a pro, I'd have it figured out already!!!  :P
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

jumbodbassman

Quote from: drbassman on February 17, 2011, 09:34:01 AM
Thanks!  I'm liking the look.  I've never worked with splated maple before.  The look of marble is really kinda unique.  My only complaint is that it's a little soft, so you do have to be careful.  I made the top thicker than I usually do to compensate some for the softness.

It dents very easily.... But i  love it......

this is sycamore not maple but close.  dents very easily but has a poly finish that gives with it not splinters....
Sitting in traffic somewhere between CT and NYC
JIM

sniper

thanks for sharing that picture = loving the look!
I can be true to you sweety until I find a nice medium scale with great breasts. ... CW

jumbodbassman

what color hardware are you using.  i know chrome rules on this site but IMO the black looks great with the spalted woods.
Sitting in traffic somewhere between CT and NYC
JIM

drbassman

Quote from: jumbodbassman on March 01, 2011, 09:01:19 AM
what color hardware are you using.  i know chrome rules on this site but IMO the black looks great with the spalted woods.

He's using black!  Good taste, just like yours.
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

drbassman

#233
Here's my version of CAD programming for doing neck angles on new builds.  I use the PAD system (pencil-aided design).  I learned this from a luthier on another forum and it works great.

The body is laid out with the bridge placement marked on top.  In this case where the 3 mounting screws will be used to attach it.  The height of the bridge is also noted at its lowest adjustment level.



The neck pocket is measured out:  depth and length.  A 3 deree angle is marked out for this particular bass.



Now I can measure from the bridge to the nut on my red neck template for final positioning of the neck in relation to the bridge, including my 3 degree angle.  I forgot to include a picture of the yardstick as it runs from the bridge to the nut.  I'll include that later tonight!



I end up with a neck pocket that is 5/8" deep at the top of the heel.  No surprises with this method!

I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

jumbodbassman

you need to explain more in detail what you are measuring.....
Sitting in traffic somewhere between CT and NYC
JIM

drbassman

#235
Quote from: jumbodbassman on March 01, 2011, 11:25:26 AM
you need to explain more in detail what you are measuring.....

See above.

The good news is the Schaller bridge will work with the 3 degree neck angle and the Epi neck.

I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

sniper

Quote from: drbassman on March 01, 2011, 11:43:06 AM
...The good news is the Schaller bridge will work with the 3 degree neck angle and the Epi neck.



Thank you, Thank you, Thank you
I can be true to you sweety until I find a nice medium scale with great breasts. ... CW

drbassman

Here's a nice view of the neck angle and the fetboard to bridge alignment..............



I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

drbassman

Quote from: sniper on March 01, 2011, 01:45:46 PM
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you

As it turns out, 3 degrees really isn't that big a deal!
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

Highlander

Quote from: drbassman on March 01, 2011, 10:21:52 AM(pencil-aided design)

Heard the one about the constipated mathematician...? ;D
The random mind of a Silver Surfer...
If research was easy, it wouldn't need doing...
Staring at that event horizon is a dirty job, but someone has to do it; something's going to come back out of it one day...