The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Gibson Basses => Topic started by: bobyoung on April 24, 2016, 08:04:32 AM
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I'm not sure of the year yet, haven't gotten it home but it has the old non-adjustable bridge, wide spaced knobs etc. It had a small crack in the headstock repaired years ago but overall is in pretty good shape for it's age, neck is straight and the frets are good. It is ugly though, it's walnut which I never really liked anyway but it's got heavy dark player marks on it in several places and there is a line in the neck where the repair was done where it gets lighter. I'm not sure whether to go for full restoration or to try to fix the dark and light areas. The dark area is really dark though and doesn't look like it would be easy to color that area. Anyway, what's involved in doing a new finish on these, would it be a big job the change the color to Cherry? It's not like this bass is a mint original. Does anyone know a place who knows these old Gibsons who could do a good job on a refin? Lastly, how much would i be looking at for a good refin job? I'll try and post a few pictures soon.
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Here's the front
In looking at it now it's looks like someone may have stripped the finish off it at one time, what do you guys think?
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neck
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I would have preferred to post larger pictures but they were too large, over the 320 kb limit.
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please leave it alone. my 2 cents. i don't understand why people buy old/vintage instruments and want to make them look new again. its like you erase the instruments entire life prior to your ownership.
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Unless the finish is beat to heck, it's kind of neat to leave it alone. I like the color myself.
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Nothing wrong with a period correct refin if it will help hide repairs and strange looking wear. A solid color could be nice too.
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I bought a '64 EB-0F with a poor walnut refin. Had it refinished period correct, no regrets.
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af119/Grog_03/1964GibsonEB-0F.jpg) (http://s999.photobucket.com/user/Grog_03/media/1964GibsonEB-0F.jpg.html)(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af119/Grog_03/1964GibsonEB-0F_zps6e2636ca.jpg) (http://s999.photobucket.com/user/Grog_03/media/1964GibsonEB-0F_zps6e2636ca.jpg.html)
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I'm on my phone and cant see the photos well but is that even the original finish? If it's been stripped already I would hesitate to refinish it but if it's original I'd leave it beat up and ugly. You can't fake 50 years of patina and experience no matter how hard you try.
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I'm on my phone and cant see the photos well but is that even the original finish? If it's been stripped already I would hesitate to refinish it but if it's original I'd leave it beat up and ugly. You can't fake 50 years of patina and experience no matter how hard you try.
I don't know if it is the original finish, when I heard about it the guy told me it was natural and I was expecting a nice light color under some clear coat so when I saw it I assumed it was walnut but there doesn't seem to be any clear or paint on it so I then thought it had been stained. Was Walnut a stain or a paint? I am starting to think it has been stripped, I won't have it for a week or so so can't take it apart to see what's under the pickup, guard etc.
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Look under the pickup or inside of the control cavity. The original finish is many times visible in these locations.............
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I vote refin. I love my instruments to look as lovely as I do at age 64.
Seriously, why not have your bass look sharp on stage? Or as you remember them as a youngster?
The only people in the audience who love the "roadworn" or BTS finish are other musicians looking to take over your gig slot or your job in your band.
I'd leave a pristine "closet queen" alone, but otherwise, why not flatter the bass and the player?
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I don't know if it is the original finish, when I heard about it the guy told me it was natural and I was expecting a nice light color under some clear coat so when I saw it I assumed it was walnut but there doesn't seem to be any clear or paint on it so I then thought it had been stained. Was Walnut a stain or a paint? I am starting to think it has been stripped, I won't have it for a week or so so can't take it apart to see what's under the pickup, guard etc.
Bob, if you want, email your larger pics to me and I'll put 'em up on my photobucket.
I've never seen a walnut finish EB-3 that early, but if it was, it would have a gloss clearcoat.
If it were mine, I'd refinish. Are you still in New England? You might check with Krishna at the Guitar Garage in Boston.
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Thanks Dave, I emailed links couldn't figure out how to get attachment in the mail. There is definitely no clear coat on this bass so I think it was taken off and yes I'm still in Ma. I'll check out Krishna the guitar garage.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/davepix/Basses/bobyoung1_zpssacbfdif.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/davepix/Basses/bobyoung2_zpsnbim94xp.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/davepix/Basses/bobyoung3_zpsid4u8xmu.jpg)
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Look under the pickup or inside of the control cavity. The original finish is many times visible in these locations.............
I haven't got it yet, waiting for Uncle Sam to deposit my tax return.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/davepix/Basses/bobyoung1_zpssacbfdif.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/davepix/Basses/bobyoung2_zpsnbim94xp.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/davepix/Basses/bobyoung3_zpsid4u8xmu.jpg)
Can anyone here tell by looking if this has likely been stripped?
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Like Dave said, there was no walnut until later. Even later thin neck/slim neck joint models from 1966 onward have mostly cherry finish althogh they are usually darker - but that is the darker mahogany used, and I think they changed something in the finishing procedure (can't remember exactly, but i think it was something with the grain filler that now got a washcoat before it was put on). Wasn't the walnut introduced by the time they got slotted headstocks?
Anyway yours is about '65 I guess - at least the wide controls put it before mid '65 but that bridge was introduced during '65. Looks stripped, a finish that faded/old i guess would be less smooth and more crackled. My '65 has original finish, it's somewhat orangey like yours but not 'dirty' around the worn spots. The dirty spots on yours looks (to me) like if they are on bare or stained wood, but who knows. Mine is sparkling red under the pickguard, so when you get it home you will see!
If the finish is just dull and unclean, just rince and buff it up. If it is indeed stripped, get it refinished. It's nothing good about an axe you can't clean, no matter how 'old' it looks..
Great find!
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Doesn't look like the original finish, in fact it almost looks likes it's just stripped to me and the dirt/oil from hands is collecting in the wood next to the mudbucker. I'd refin and not feel bad.
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Doesn't look like the original finish, in fact it almost looks likes it's just stripped to me and the dirt/oil from hands is collecting in the wood next to the mudbucker. I'd refin and not feel bad.
Yeah that's what I think too. Especially since the seller told me it was natural to begin with.
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There is a difference between mojo and gunk.
I'd have it refinished in cherry and then tastefully relic'ed. Like borderline Closet Classic, finish checking, deglossing, und so weiter.
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There is a difference between mojo and gunk.
I'd have it refinished in cherry and then tastefully relic'ed. Like borderline Closet Classic, finish checking, deglossing, und so weiter.
I like Cherry too but have been thinking about what it would look like with brand new shiny paint on it and don't like that idea and I also hate the whole relic concept so I'm not sure what to do. However Dave steered me toward a good place fairly close by so I'm going to go down there and talk to them and see what they have to say. I also have a line on an original truss rod cover and some screws so I am a purist at heart, haha!
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if you are determined a 'mild' refin might be ok, but relicing is some phony bullshite i can't abide. it must be earned, not bought. :mrgreen:
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if you are determined a 'mild' refin might be ok, but relicing is some phony bullshite i can't abide. it must be earned, not bought. :mrgreen:
I don't like relicing either for the same reason but I think there is too much goo in the body for just a clear coat and it looks like hell now so I'll talk to the Guitar Garage and see what they have to say.
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Sorry, late to the party. This looks like it was stripped of topcoat (clear) but the stain remains, and yeah it got a bit dirty. The pic of the back of the neck/headstock with that weird square lighter portion is odd and I can't tell what that's about from the pic.
I say keep the fin but clean it up. Get the gunk off with 0000 steel wool or superfine sanding and then use your preferred clearcoat. Personally, I like that black streak above the mudbucker (just like I dig the sliver of new wood in the neck repair on mine). Looks a bit like the streaked/faded finishes of Gibson SGs a few years ago. In addition to mojo, it also serves as a handy unique identifier. ;)
Mine (also a 65) came to me similarly stripped:
(http://grannygremlin.com/images/nonwebpics/EB3/EB3b4-1.jpg)
I finished with Tung oil, and have been very happy with the look and feel. She looks her age in a good way. This was taken a year or so after the work was done, it's a horrible pic:
(http://grannygremlin.com/images/nonwebpics/EB3/65%20EB3_sm.jpg)
And this is today (pro refret about 6 months ago; she is due for a cleaning and re-oiling):
(http://grannygremlin.com/images/nonwebpics/EB3/65EB3-April2016-fullfrontal.jpg)
(http://grannygremlin.com/images/nonwebpics/EB3/65EB3-April2016-bodyfront.jpg)
(http://grannygremlin.com/images/nonwebpics/EB3/65EB3-April2016-Back.jpg)
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Thanks for the pix, Dave. It appears the previous owner like to anchor his thumb on the neck pickup. It also looks like a layer of fiberglass was used to repair that headstock...or at least that's what the pattern visible on the back side of the neck and headstock suggests to me.
I agree, looks like stain is all that remains. I think i'd change my vote to a refin if you want to keep the bass. Not sure what you'll run into on that fiberglassed area.
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Oh yeah - I think you're right about the fiberglass; didn't see the texture on my monitor till I upped the contrast.
It can be sanded smother. The colour diff indicates to me that it is an older repair and the rest got dirty but not the bit protected by the foberglass resin.
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I like that natural look - whether original o´(which I doubt) or not. I have an SG shape EB-6 just like that (certainly non-original as regards the fin as well).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v615/uwehornung/IMG00290-20100816-2002.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v615/uwehornung/IMG00291-20100816-2003.jpg)
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Whatever you end up doing it's still a good looking instrument any which way. If I were going to refin I'd pick something other than Cherry though. Why not live it up and do something crazy like Inverness Green or Silver Mist, or better yet a straight up 60s psychedelic finish :o
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Whatever you end up doing it's still a good looking instrument any which way. If I were going to refin I'd pick something other than Cherry though. Why not live it up and do something crazy like Inverness Green or Silver Mist, or better yet a straight up 60s psychedelic finish :o
60's psychedelic, now that's an idea! :mrgreen:
I was wondering what was in that hole on the neck, the repair was done years ago and the repairmen didn't match the stain very well. I'm wondering too how extensive the fiberglass area is, it looks like it goes on up into the lower headstock area
Another question: Is or was fiberglass a common way to repair breaks? What were or are the advantages and disadvantages of using fiberglass to repair a headstock crack like that?
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60's psychedelic, now that's an idea! :mrgreen:
I was wondering what was in that hole on the neck, the repair was done years ago and the repairmen didn't match the stain very well. I'm wondering too how extensive the fiberglass area is, it looks like it goes on up into the lower headstock area
The picture appears to show it pretty well. Starts 3-4 inches below the headstock and extends all the way to the top of the headstock. That would have covered the original serial number, which would be stamped into the wood below the top of the headstock.
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The advantage is that it reinforces the neck (the argument could be easily made that it is overkill; it certainly isn't a common or standard thing to do though I have seen similar reinforcements, just not with fiberglass). Disadvantage is that it doesn't look so great and, in this case, obscures the serial number (there really was no need to take the fiber all the way to the tip of the headstock; looks like the break was around the nut; they could have left the SN visible but were overzealous).
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I suppose after all the work and repair, a serial number is a bit superfluous.
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I've seen fiberglass used before on neck repairs, not common yet not that rare either.
That could very well be the original color, and it looks more like cherry that has faded from UV exposure than walnut anyway. Possible that the clearcoat was removed by fine sanding to try to blend more with the repair; if the clearcoat was partially worn off from use, that might have made sense rather than a complete strip and refin. Hard to tell until you have it in hand. Dark areas may just be dirt. If it comes off with a good cleaning, who knows, maybe you'll opt against a refin.
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I've seen fiberglass used before on neck repairs, not common yet not that rare either.
That could very well be the original color, and it looks more like cherry that has faded from UV exposure than walnut anyway. Possible that the clearcoat was removed by fine sanding to try to blend more with the repair; if the clearcoat was partially worn off from use, that might have made sense rather than a complete strip and refin. Hard to tell until you have it in hand. Dark areas may just be dirt. If it comes off with a good cleaning, who knows, maybe you'll opt against a refin.
Well I guess we'll see, I should have it by the end of next week. The seller told me it was just a crack, I'm wondering now if it was a serious break for the repairmen to have used all that fiberglass.
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I'm wondering now if it was a serious break for the repairmen to have used all that fiberglass.
Maybe they were boat repairmen?
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That's what I thought too!
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It's a bass with a name: Gilligan's Gibson!
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I doubt the fiberglass is hiding a more serious break. More likely it's just reinforcement to make sure a normal crack never comes undone.
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I'll be picking it up tomorrow I'll let you all know what I find in a few days.
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OK got the bass, so far it sounds a lot better than my old slotted headstock bass. The owner had the serial number, it checks out to being made sometime in Kalamazoo in 1965. Now a question: Is there any way to increase the bottom in pos 3? It seems like there is a low cut going on somewhere in there. Years ago I either bypassed the choke or just unhooked it, can't remember which but I got rid of the bass shortly after and can't remember what effect if any it had on pos 3. On pos 3 it sounds good from the E which is an octave up from low E but seems to lose bottom below that E, is there anything I can do short of major surgery to fix that that anyone knows of?
I just found the old thread sound difference between 60's and 70's EB-3 basses and re-read it. I remember the EB-0 mod which is what i think I did 8 years ago (because I said I did!) and actually don't think this bass needs it because I have been getting a good sound in pos 3 playing with the bridge volume control to where it does have some good bottom. This bass sounds really good, much better than my slot head ever did. Maybe 30 year old strings have something to do with it? I ordered some Labella flat wounds for it. We'll see how those sound and play, I ordered the fat ones, .049 to .109.
Now I'm wondering what to do with the finish I am starting to like it the way it is but I don't think that big black dirt mark is ever going to come out so I might go down to the Guitar Factory and see what they can do after all. I don't want to change the sound of this bass though.
BTW I took the neck humbucker off and also the pick guard, whoever stripped this did a good job, I can't see any trace of the original clear or any other color, I think that this is the original color, whatever it is.
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Search this forum, lots of wiring threads here. I prefer normal toggle, but there are ways to get that 4 pos. sw. to work for you. The only EB3 with 4 pos. I´ve had (´67 - sold it last year) I spent a lot of time modifying. Yes, the choke can be ungrounded easily without mods, but if you like pos. 4 you can just ignore pos 3.
As for the finish, if you just clean up or have it refinished it will not alter the sound - although you can find other opinions on that subject if you google it.
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Last night after I posted that it sounded good I realized that the 4 position switch was in between 3 and 4 which seemed to bypass whatever was cutting the bottom and volume from it. Both pickups were full on and both volumes worked and it sounded great. Now I have to figure out what is going on in there. I'm hoping I can wire pos 3 so it's like that.
I'm going to try some Murphy's Oil Soap on that black mark and see what happens.
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"SG Lou" Moritz has done some pretty spectacular repairs and restorations.
He would be at the top of my list of people to consult on a project like this.
http://www.freewebs.com/stmoritzguitars/
https://www.facebook.com/lou.moritz/media_set?set=a.10200144837761069.201979.1154694970&type=3
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Search this forum, lots of wiring threads here. I prefer normal toggle, but there are ways to get that 4 pos. sw. to work for you. The only EB3 with 4 pos. I´ve had (´67 - sold it last year) I spent a lot of time modifying. Yes, the choke can be ungrounded easily without mods, but if you like pos. 4 you can just ignore pos 3.
As for the finish, if you just clean up or have it refinished it will not alter the sound - although you can find other opinions on that subject if you google it.
OK I've just been studying the schematic, it looks like if I bypass (short out) the 0.2 cap in the neck pickup circuit I will get the big boom in pos 3, I might even unhook the inductor too and see how that sounds.
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I'm sure all you guys are waiting with baited breath for my next installment. Shorting the cap did nothing that i could hear, so I clipped the inductor out of the circuit and that did it, the neck is on full boom in pos 3 with the bridge pickup. I also took off the Labellas, way to boomy and dead on this bass for my tastes and put on some old round wounds that had some life left that I had lying around and it sounds pretty damn good now. The bridge volume is very touchy though, I have to fine tune it to get a good blend, but at a certain point the things sounds great, plenty of bottom with a good clear top end. I scrubbed the black mark with Murphy's and a lot of it did come out but so did the sealer and some of the stain, it looks a lot better though and I kind of like the color the way it is. I would like a clear coat on it though but I want the black out of it first. I think I'm going to have it looked at at the Guitar Garage, I can drive there in about an hour. SG Moritz does some nice work but I don't really want to ship it and at this point I don't want a total restoration just maybe get it cleaned up with a clear coat, maybe not even the clear. When my wife gets back from S America I'll have her take some pictures and I'll post them. I even got it pretty closely intonated with the little Allen screws in the bridge. I haven't tried it through the SVT yet, I've only been playing it through my little practice amp in my bedroom, so I'll check that out tomorrow, i expect to rattle things off the shelves.
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Bob, I'm following your installments but since I've only owned EB-0 variations, I can't offer you advice.
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Bob, I'm following your installments but since I've only owned EB-0 variations, I can't offer you advice.
I was just joking Dave, I'm grateful for the advice I already got, to me it now sounds like a EB-0 with an added bridge pickup which is the way I've always wanted them to sound. To me it's getting into T-bird territory, I may get shot for that remark though, huh?
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Well i think my bridge pickup volume control is shorting out right near the end, it jumps from partial volume to full. Anyone know where I can locate one for sale? I believe it's a 500K pot.
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You sure about that Bob? I'm guessing it does that with both pickups on but works fine when you solo the bridge pick up. Blending the two pickups is still a tricky proposition even without the choke in the circuit.
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I just bought a new CTS 500K pot on ebay, it's supposed to be for Gibsons, if it doesn't fit I'm only out about 8 bucks.
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You sure about that Bob? I'm guessing it does that with both pickups on but works fine when you solo the bridge pick up. Blending the two pickups is still a tricky proposition even without the choke in the circuit.
you know I didn't try that and should have thought of it, I'll do it now, thanks but as you can see in the preceding post I already bought one but I'm only out 8 bucks if I don't need it.
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You sure about that Bob? I'm guessing it does that with both pickups on but works fine when you solo the bridge pick up. Blending the two pickups is still a tricky proposition even without the choke in the circuit.
I just checked it and it also does it with the bridge soloed so I guess I'll be putting that CTS pot in, thanks though I should have thought about that first as I've read a lot of the past posts about how hard it is to blend them.
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So.... I went through 3 sets of string on the bass, adjusted the truss rod a few times tried to intonate it the best I could, the bridge is all the way forward and the lower strings are still a little flat when played way up the neck so I'm wondering if there is a bridge that will bolt right in from a later EB-3 with individual adjustments. It's not too bad though so I'm not sure if I would want to do that. But the good news is that with the inductor out of the circuit the things sounds great. I finally put D'Addario super brights on it and have been playing it mostly with a pick through my SVT. I got a lot of compliments the past two nights at gigs, even from the soundman, can you imagine that, a soundman liking a Gibson mudbucking bass? That I didn't expect. I'm real happy with this bass. I still haven't decided whether to refinish it or not though. I find the key to getting a good sound out of it modded like that is by dropping the bridge pickup volume down to around 9 and leaving the neckbucker on full. It cuts through the mix and also has a nice bottom end which everything else floats on, sounds great with the kick drum too.
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No refins Bob... looks fine as she is... ;)
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So.... I went through 3 sets of string on the bass, adjusted the truss rod a few times tried to intonate it the best I could, the bridge is all the way forward and the lower strings are still a little flat when played way up the neck so I'm wondering if there is a bridge that will bolt right in from a later EB-3 with individual adjustments.
Not sure if a 2 point is the same spacing as a bar bridge, but the Schaller 460 (NOT the 460L) will fit. If you measure the post spacing I can confirm that for you. Don't think the Badbird (by our own godofthunder) will work due to the stud spacing being different, but it's worth confirmming to be sure.
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Not sure if a 2 point is the same spacing as a bar bridge, but the Schaller 460 (NOT the 460L) will fit. If you measure the post spacing I can confirm that for you. Don't think the Badbird (by our own godofthunder) will work due to the stud spacing being different, but it's worth confirmming to be sure.
The post spacing is about 3 1/4" or 3 5/16ths, still not sure about a changed bridge either but just checked it out and the Schaller looks pretty cool, would look right at home on the bass. I found a sold one one that said it measured 3 11/32nds so I think it will fit but let me know what you think. I found one on ebay, 200 bucks! ???
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Yeah - my 460 is 3 5/16ths (could be 9/32s, but I wouldn't say 11/32s... some people and rulers tho.... also this is why metric is better FYI ;P)
(http://grannygremlin.com/images/nonwebpics/Schaller%20460/460.jpg)
And just another warning - watch out and do not accidentally buy a 460L as I did years ago - the one on my 65 EB3 (which came to me stripped to the bare wood with the parts in a plastic bag, so I did not feel bad about redrilling) is 3 1/2" give or take a 16th (pic perspective makes it look more off, but IRL it looks almost bang on 3.5). The seller won't even necessarily know the difference - always ask them to check the spacing - basically one is closer to 3 1/4 and the other 3 1/2 so it's easy.
(http://grannygremlin.com/images/nonwebpics/Schaller%20460/460L.jpg)
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Here's an old thread (http://forums.vintageguitarandbass.com/showthread.php?964-will-an-adjustable-late-60-s-eb0-bridge-fit-a-65-eb0) from Jules' forum where some guy named Granny Gremlin says the 460 is 3.25"
What about the Hipshot? The two point Supertone (http://www.hipshotproducts.com/files/all/two_point_dimensions_drawing1.pdf) (.pdf) shows 3.265" -- and yet two of the three customer reviews for it mention using it on '71s. I'm confused.
At any rate, there's the issue of the bar bridge posts, which aren't quite on a parallel. Didn't someone here a few years back mention using a two-point Supertone on those posts?
EDIT: Found the old thread (http://bassoutpost.com/index.php?topic=2274.0), it was Chris S. a/k/a MARICOPAA, with a pic on the posts. No idea whatever happened to the idea of a "vintage" Supertone to fit the offset posts or if Dave B. at Hipshot ever developed plans.
Chris hasn't been here for several years, I see he's still playing lead guitar with his Yardbirds tribute band and teaching guitar.
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I spoke with hipshot once about the offset of the bar bridge. I believe they developed a version with a set screw that allows use of the bridge with the level or offset bolts. Call them - they will clear this up for you.
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What about the Hipshot? The two point Supertone (http://www.hipshotproducts.com/files/all/two_point_dimensions_drawing1.pdf) (.pdf) shows 3.265" -- and yet two of the three customer reviews for it mention using it on '71s. I'm confused.
At any rate, there's the issue of the bar bridge posts, which aren't quite on a parallel. Didn't someone here a few years back mention using a two-point Supertone on those posts?
I used a two point supertone on my fretless 1967 EB0 project a couple of years ago, there was no modification needed regarding the offset - one of the post holes is oblong/adjustable. The post screws must be modified though, if you are to use the original screws/posts.
But I can´t see that the bar bridge does a bad job of intonating the bass; i bought the supertone because I had no bridge for my project - and original bar bridges (at the time) was far between and silly priced!
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I used a two point supertone on my fretless 1967 EB0 project a couple of years ago, there was no modification needed regarding the offset - one of the post holes is oblong/adjustable. The post screws must be modified though, if you are to use the original screws/posts.
But I can´t see that the bar bridge does a bad job of intonating the bass; i bought the supertone because I had no bridge for my project - and original bar bridges (at the time) was far between and silly priced!
I have the bridge all the way as far as it can go towards the pickups and the lower strings are a little flat up the neck, gets worse as you go up. If I had 1/8" more it would probably be OK. I had thought of using a round file but don't really want to screw it up. I don't have the action super high either. What are the post screws? Do you have a photo of the bridge? That would make it a little more clear for me.
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Is this the one you're talking about?
http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=326
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I spoke with hipshot once about the offset of the bar bridge. I believe they developed a version with a set screw that allows use of the bridge with the level or offset bolts. Call them - they will clear this up for you.
I used a two point supertone on my fretless 1967 EB0 project a couple of years ago, there was no modification needed regarding the offset - one of the post holes is oblong/adjustable. The post screws must be modified though, if you are to use the original screws/posts.
But I can´t see that the bar bridge does a bad job of intonating the bass; i bought the supertone because I had no bridge for my project - and original bar bridges (at the time) was far between and silly priced!
Is this the one you're talking about?
http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=326
Aha! I didn't look closely enough at the pic on Hipshot's website and it's not that apparent because of the angle of the shot. Obviously they have redesigned the holes since the image posted in that 2009 thread. The left hole is oblong now so it will fit either the bar bridge or the later two-point.
That's the one, Bob. You can get the two-point Supertone for less than list price from several eBay sellers. See this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hipshot-Supertone-4-string-Bass-Bridge-Gibson-2-point-Chrome-5G410C-/111705155990?hash=item1a02256996:g:CysAAOSwMmBVjtgq), it's easy to see that the left hole is really a slot. Not sure if it will get your action exactly where you want it, but at least you ought to be able to get it closer.
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Here's an old thread (http://forums.vintageguitarandbass.com/showthread.php?964-will-an-adjustable-late-60-s-eb0-bridge-fit-a-65-eb0) from Jules' forum where some guy named Granny Gremlin says the 460 is 3.25"
Yeah - I was rounding to the nearest quarter (seriously, who the hell want's to deal with 32nds?)
The 460 has super long set screws to adjust for any offset. You can see them in the pics.
Was not aware that there was a 2 point supertone. Looks less obtrusive than their 3 point replacement (why did someone put one on an RD - the mind boggles). I am still not a fan of the design however; the way they do it it is too easy to crank it down and make an imprint in the body; a shame on a 60s EB3. It will go lower than a 460 tho (the saddles are pretty tall). There are ways to get the 460 lower.
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Aha! I didn't look closely enough at the pic on Hipshot's website and it's not that apparent because of the angle of the shot. Obviously they have redesigned the holes since the image posted in that 2009 thread. The left hole is oblong now so it will fit either the bar bridge or the later two-point.
That's the one, Bob. You can get the two-point Supertone for less than list price from several eBay sellers. See this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hipshot-Supertone-4-string-Bass-Bridge-Gibson-2-point-Chrome-5G410C-/111705155990?hash=item1a02256996:g:CysAAOSwMmBVjtgq), it's easy to see that the left hole is really a slot. Not sure if it will get your action exactly where you want it, but at least you ought to be able to get it closer.
The action's good Dave, it's the intonation that's off a little bit, little bit flat on the E,A and D, when you go up on the neck, and I just bought that bridge, I kind of hate to put a shiny new bridge on it but hate flat high notes even worse.
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The action's good Dave, it's the intonation that's off a little bit, little bit flat on the E,A and D, when you go up on the neck, and I just bought that bridge, I kind of hate to put a shiny new bridge on it but hate flat high notes even worse.
Google "aging chrome guitar hardware" and you'll get a lot of hits. I wouldn't do it, though.
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Google "aging chrome guitar hardware" and you'll get a lot of hits. I wouldn't do it, though.
I lowered the action and the intonation is better, I might sit on that new bridge for a while before installing it because I really like the looks of it now. It should be in today or tomorrow.
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OK, I got the bridge and just had to try it out, very easy to put on and it actually works very well. It came almost intonated already. The most apparent thing is that the E string sounds better, it's more even with the other strings and the middy sound of it isn't as loud as before and they all play in tune all the way up the neck. I didn't tighten it down too much. I'm not crazy about how it looks, the old one just looks right, this one is shiny chrome and is pretty big compared to the bar bridge, but it sounds and plays better, nice to be able to individually set the string heights too. I haven't played with the side placement yet on it although i just noticed that there is more of a space between the E and A than the A and D and even less between the D and the G on the nut. When my wife gets home next week I'll take a picture and post it. The bridge is fairly heavy but I don't notice it playing the bass, does nothing for the neck dive either. All in all it's a pretty big improvement in the playability department.
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I love happy endings. :)
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OK, I got the bridge and just had to try it out, very easy to put on and it actually works very well. It came almost intonated already. The most apparent thing is that the E string sounds better, it's more even with the other strings and the middy sound of it isn't as loud as before and they all play in tune all the way up the neck. I didn't tighten it down too much. I'm not crazy about how it looks, the old one just looks right, this one is shiny chrome and is pretty big compared to the bar bridge, but it sounds and plays better, nice to be able to individually set the string heights too. I haven't played with the side placement yet on it although i just noticed that there is more of a space between the E and A than the A and D and even less between the D and the G on the nut. When my wife gets home next week I'll take a picture and post it. The bridge is fairly heavy but I don't notice it playing the bass, does nothing for the neck dive either. All in all it's a pretty big improvement in the playability department.
So you don´t need that silly old bridge. Ship it to me :)