The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: Pilgrim on June 22, 2010, 07:42:47 PM
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What I have is a '64 EB-0 with a G-string tuner area headstock crack, (perhaps 2 or three) but not a full headstock break.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P6180440.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P6180442.jpg)
It doesn't look like it's going to be too difficult to repair, but I sure want to get it right the first time...don't want to deal with glue from a failed repair.
I'm thinking:
1) Remove tuners
2) Evaluate clamping areas - make cauls to fit if needed...this looks like an almost flat clamping area, although it extends below the headstock a bit.
3) Use syringe to inject copious amounts of Titebond (original) throughout cracked areas
4) Clamp, wipe and be patient for 24+ hours.
Suggestions, comments, encouragement?
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Looks like a pretty straight forward repair, seems to be a common issue with the beloved Gibson. In the plus column, it will never break there again after you repair it right.
Not that I am recommending it but you may want to keep an open mind about not breaking it off all the way and then re-gluing it. Of course, I'm not looking at it so I cant say for sure. Lots of good info on the web that may be helpful to you. I'm sure you have done a lot of homework already.
I bet it's going to be great when it's all said and done.
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Here is one that looks a little like what you got, looks like they were able to do it with out having to snap it all the way off.
http://www.timeelect.com/headstock.htm
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As you say, I've been doing some looking for repair techniques - I found that link and they did a superb job. I thought about that, and checked ReRanch - they do sell the Gibson cherry lacquer in a rattle can at $16. Makes it not worth firing up my air compressor and airbrush. The critical part is getting a perfect glue joint - I'm not scared by the touch up/refin afterwards.
I'm also considering having a luthier do it - but if I throw in $100 there, then a pickup, then a bridge, the price starts to get high.
I'll be interested to see what comments I get. I won't have a chance to get into the crack and really check it out until this evening or tomorrow evening.
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Your approach is perfect ! Go for it !
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Al, I would clamp the top of the headstock ina vise, and gently pull on the neck to open the crack a little and take a good in there. If you see lots of raw wood and no major signs of old glue, then injecting it is exactly what I would do. If you see lots of old glue, then the Titebond may not hold properly. Then you have to consider how cleaning it out might go for you.
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Al, I would clamp the top of the headstock ina vise, and gently pull on the neck to open the crack a little and take a good look in there.
...and hopefully not hear a loud crunch, right? :o
That seems like a decent idea to get a look at what the situation is.
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...and hopefully not hear a loud crunch, right? :o
That seems like a decent idea to get a look at what the situation is.
Have a magnifier and bright light handy when you do it! Just don't get too aggressive! :P
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Al, I would clamp the top of the headstock ina vise, and gently pull on the neck to open the crack a little and take a good in there. If you see lots of raw wood and no major signs of old glue, then injecting it is exactly what I would do. If you see lots of old glue, then the Titebond may not hold properly. Then you have to consider how cleaning it out might go for you.
Good point Bill ! I was thinking that it hadn't been repaired.
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My concern is (what looks like) the two cracks (hopefully in the fin) that extend under the tuner and cross the primary crack - the two I had in the neck of the PC turned out to be only in the fin, but no way of knowing for sure until I stripped the fin...
Other than that, looks like a fairly straightforward job... (fin-gers crossed)
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I'm 90% sure it has not been repaired, but there's always room for surprises. No external evidence of a repair at all!
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I'm 90% sure it has not been repaired, but there's always room for surprises. No external evidence of a repair at all!
That's positive!
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Go for it. Original titebond is only recommended for perfectly mated surfaces. According to the mfr. it has zero strength in filled gaps, so you might research other options. That said, I have used it in less than perfect situations and it's always worked.
The possibility of multiple cracks would have me a little concerned, I'd try careful clamping dry first with minimum pressure to get a better idea of the situation.
I don't mind seeing the scars of a properly done repair, to me it looks better than an almost opaque layer of toner. I'd airbrush vs rattlecan for something like that, you have a lot more control.
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Stew mac has some thinner faster drying glues that worked pretty good for a few neck repairs i have done although non were that bad. they aren't cheap but have seemed to work well for me.
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Stew-Mac carries good stuff. Interesting note on the Titebond. I'll see how closely I can mate the sides of the break. If in doubt I'll consider an epoxy, but I sure like the easy clean-up of wiping off Titebond.
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I think the more research you do the less likely you will be to use epoxy. The chemistry behind wood glues is pretty amazing. That's why a properly glued joint will never break at the glue line. Anybody had luck with Gorilla Glue? I bought some but have hesitated to use it.
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I dread to think what they make it from... :o
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I think the more research you do the less likely you will be to use epoxy. The chemistry behind wood glues is pretty amazing. That's why a properly glued joint will never break at the glue line. Anybody had luck with Gorilla Glue? I bought some but have hesitated to use it.
Gorilla glue has its uses but I would stick with Tite Bond on this repair. The gorilla glue expands and will push the crack apart.
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I've used Gorilla Glue and it does have its good uses, but I find it hard to visualize where I would use it on a musical instrument.
It expands and foams aggressively, and it has a habit of creeping out of everywhere with even tiny lines of the residue forming hard ridges that are difficult to remove. It's very messy stuff if you apply even a fraction more than needed - and with the foaming and expansion, I've never found it very practical determine how much is enough. The point about it pushing the crack apart is well taken, and I think that would be a likely outcome.
However - once it bonds, it REALLY bonds. Pretty serious stuff. I've used it to attach oak trim on the front edges of a book case shelves, but I still had to go after expanding material and trim off residue. I have no idea what solvent - if any - would remove the residue.
Titebond is much friendlier.
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Anybody need to repair some gorillas? I got some glue I ain't using.
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I agree on the Gorilla Snot - it does work well but is the messiest crap on the face of the planet! Like was mentioned earlier PVA is the way to go if there is no old glue to hamper the bond. If it's tainted with old glue then expoy is the way to go and I would go with a good comercial/marine grade at that.
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PVA? Not sure of reference.
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PVA = regular wood glue (polyvinyl acetate)
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Thanks...suspected that was the case but when you're not sure, ask.
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Titebond Original is not PVA, it's aliphatic resin. White Elmer's is PVA. PVA 'creeps', joints can actually move over time, aliphatic resin creeps too but less.
Urea-Resin glue is a powder you mix with water and has great wood fiber penetration, strength and gap filling qualities. Doesn't creep. Long open time, cleans up with water before it sets. Sands off easily when dry, doesn't gum up like dry titebond.
Or rather it didn't, I just googled it. Seems it's no longer made, must have something to do with the formaldehyde in the formula. Damn you EU! ;) Last time I used it was on this chair about 25 years ago. Couldn't have laminated the plys with titebond, not enough open time. Excuse the non bass content.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/1967%20EBO%20Conversion/HOLLY.jpg)
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Titebond Original is not PVA, it's aliphatic resin. White Elmer's is PVA. PVA 'creeps', joints can actually move over time, aliphatic resin creeps too but less.
You're right but if you hang around woodworking forums you'll find that white and yellow wood glues are almost always referred to as PVA regardless of the individual brands, to differentiate them from the other general types like polyurethanes (original Gorilla Glue) epoxies or CA.
The original white glues were called PVA. It's my understanding that aliphatic resin glue is a modified form of PVA, modified for more strength than the original white PVA glues like Elmer's. Not that I'm an adhesives expert.
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You're right but if you hang around woodworking forums you'll find that white and yellow wood glues are almost always referred to as PVA regardless of the individual brands, to differentiate them from the other general types like polyurethanes (original Gorilla Glue) epoxies or CA.
The original white glues were called PVA. It's my understanding that aliphatic resin glue is a modified form of PVA, modified for more strength than the original white PVA glues like Elmer's. Not that I'm an adhesives expert.
That's my understanding, too. I just get crazy about this because I had to deal with it in a China factory that was using cheap PVA (in open glue pots at around 95 degree temp, it goes bad real quick) to glue dining chairs. The joints kept failing, I attempted to get them to try Titebond and better woodworking and gluing practices to no avail. Went back to US. When I returned a month later they showed me this great new glue they were using. Titebond manufactured in China.
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That's my understanding, too. I just get crazy about this because I had to deal with it in a China factory that was using cheap PVA (in open glue pots at around 95 degree temp, it goes bad real quick) to glue dining chairs. The joints kept failing, I attempted to get them to try Titebond and better woodworking and gluing practices to no avail. Went back to US. When I returned a month later they showed me this great new glue they were using. Titebond manufactured in China.
Aside (possibly) from patent laws, you have just summarized the next great step in world commerce.
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Aside (possibly) from patent laws, you have just summarized the next great step in world commerce.
As usual I screwed up the story...what I tried to tell them was that they needed to use aliphatic resin glue, not PVA. I accessed Titebond's US site but didn't think to look for a Chinese one. When I got back they were using genuine Titebond manufactured locally. This was about 5 years ago, in any case the patent had long run out, Elmer's is making an aliphatic now. Akzo Nobel, the largest finish manufacturer in the world, is in China as well as just about everybody else still in the wood biz. Or cars or...you name it. They no longer need to violate every patent. The big guys anyway.
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You're right but if you hang around woodworking forums you'll find that white and yellow wood glues are almost always referred to as PVA regardless of the individual brands, to differentiate them from the other general types like polyurethanes (original Gorilla Glue) epoxies or CA.
The original white glues were called PVA. It's my understanding that aliphatic resin glue is a modified form of PVA, modified for more strength than the original white PVA glues like Elmer's. Not that I'm an adhesives expert.
Sorry, is was shorter to type out PVA than the other. I should have said Elmers. ;) I prefer it to Titebond and I've used a lot of both brands.
I had a neighbor that went out to the bigbox furniture place and spent $6K on bedroom furniture. Big, oversized, ugly with an opaque quasi wood grain looking finish on it. The stuff started to crack with a few months in their house - exposed to the soft mystery wood underneath. Several of the drawers swelled shut and the finish flaked off on other areas. Yes, the best French Colonial furniture that China had to offer ;D
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I fear the West has seriously underestimated China's ability to make the rapid progress it has, literally from dirt roads to superhighways (and bullet trains) in 10 years. They will sell you whatever you want and very quickly figure out how to do it to the quality level required. The will also hit your price point with the best quality that can be provided at that price. I have been in a Henredon factory in China that was producing furniture indistinguishable from it's North Carolina counterpart and Henredon is considered a very high end brand. I've also been in many factories that didn't have a clue and they were gone after a while. Factories in Tupelo, Mississippi churned out some really poor quality, for the most part they are gone. China produces the quality the Euros demand as well as the junk Americans consume.
I've gotten way off topic, I apologize.
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China produces............the junk Americans consume.
I've gotten way off topic, I apologize.
My point exactly! We consume JUNK and then whine when there are no jobs stateside >:(
No need to apologize - you'd be surprised what I've learned on this forum because we wonder off topic ;D
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My point exactly! We consume JUNK and then whine when there are no jobs stateside >:(
+1. Winners don't whine.
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Think of it like a tapestry, or maybe one of those family quilt's so popular over your side of the Pond, the more varied the story weaved in, the better the journey is remembered... some of us just don't know what staying on thread means...
Those that can deserve this award...
(http://fudgeman.org/pub/Amusing/LOLCATs/King%20of%20Threads.jpg)
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I'm getting used to it!
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I'm unraveled.
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Just to re-ravel you, I've been checking urea-resin glues and they're quite available in the US. It does sound like they might be a good solution for a fix like this. They're inflexible, don't creep, and fill gaps. It does sound like residue clean-up might be challenging, and they seem to produce toxic fumes fo care must be used in mixing and application.
I haven't made my mind up yet - I have the luxury of time.
Stew-mac has some good options, of course. Super Glue doesn't appeal - not enough working time. Their slow epoxy has 30-minute working time and might be practical; it also has no toxic fumes.
I'm still debating Titebond as I really like wood glues. I'm trying to decide whether the stress on this repair is at such an angle that creep would be any issue. A complete headstock break would definitely make creep an issue, but I'm not sure that this crack does.
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New information...
Got the tuners off, and found that the crack under the G tuner runs diagonally over to the A string tuner. I've marked all the crack lines with yellow dots in this photo. I can move the crack by just grabbing the top of the headstock and twisting my wrist (firmly). I haven't had time to pursue it very far, as this work was interrupted by other stuff...but it's looking more technical and difficult. I can't get the long diagaonal crack to open very far.
I'm starting to consider having a luthier tackle this. I don't mind working on the back side of the headstock, but I don't want to crack this open and end up needing to refin the front. I'm not confident of my refin skills on the front of the headstock. I think I'll do it myself if I can get that diagonal crack open far enough to get a syringe tip into the crack - but if not, I think I'd rather pay a luthier than make a mistake. I have multiple cracks to work with, but all will need to be opened and glued in one procedure.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/Headstockcracklines.jpg)
The BadAss bridge is off, and it had a three-screw mount. I'm not sure whether a Hipshot SuperTone will cover the screw holes, but so far I think that's the direction I'll go. You can also see from this photo that the post holes are not located straight across the body - the G string side is a bit closer to the headstock than the E string side. Is that normal for the EB-0 series? I suspect it is, but don't know. The object in the G-side post hole is a ground strap.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P6260412.jpg)
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Just to re-ravel you, I've been checking urea-resin glues and they're quite available in the US. It does sound like they might be a good solution for a fix like this. They're inflexible, don't creep, and fill gaps. It does sound like residue clean-up might be challenging, and they seem to produce toxic fumes fo care must be used in mixing and application.
I haven't made my mind up yet - I have the luxury of time.
Stew-mac has some good options, of course. Super Glue doesn't appeal - not enough working time. Their slow epoxy has 30-minute working time and might be practical; it also has no toxic fumes.
I'm still debating Titebond as I really like wood glues. I'm trying to decide whether the stress on this repair is at such an angle that creep would be any issue. A complete headstock break would definitely make creep an issue, but I'm not sure that this crack does.
Guitar Player Repair Guide, pages 226-227 (1994 Edition) will answer every glue and headstock repair question and/or confuse you completely.
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The offset post holes are normal. That's part of helping the original bar bridge intonate.
I'm not sure the Supertone will work. The earlier string spacing was slightly different than the later, and I don't think it's designed for the offset posts of the bar bridge. Better consult with them before ordering.
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The offset post holes are normal. That's part of helping the original bar bridge intonate.
I'm not sure the Supertone will work. The earlier string spacing was slightly different than the later, and I don't think it's designed for the offset posts of the bar bridge. Better consult with them before ordering.
+1, pre '67 post spacings are different. You could probably file the supertone to fit but it wouldn't make it any less ugly ;D
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So what you need is a injectable, thin, glue with a forgiving working time. Mmmmm.
I will agree that a luthier might be the answer - the problem is can you find a luthier that is really competant and experienced in this repair? Someone like Mike Dolan comes to mind. You also run the risk of paying someone that will do a job with far less skill than you will.
Did you determine if there was old glue to contend with?
I think that if you did this yourself you could make cauls for the front/back and sides for effective clamping. A few practice runs would give an idea of time to set the clamps. Further, you could experiment with glue thickness,set/working time and the syringes etc.
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1994 Prices
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/1967%20EBO%20Conversion/page1.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/1967%20EBO%20Conversion/P1020029.jpg)
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Lots of good advice so far Al. That is one nasty set of fissures you have there. Not the usual big break or single fault line. I'm not sure how I'd approach this one.
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Guitar Player Repair Guide, pages 226-227 (1994 Edition) will answer every glue and headstock repair question and/or confuse you completely.
And thanks to your excellent note, I now have the 2007 edition in hand! Been meaning to pick it up and I appreciate the prompt. on page 167 it has the same drawing of the jig used to place stress on the crack that is shown in the pages you posted earlier. Thanks to your prompt, I was near a large bookstore today and picked up the latest edition.
The offset post holes are normal. That's part of helping the original bar bridge intonate.
I'm not sure the Supertone will work. The earlier string spacing was slightly different than the later, and I don't think it's designed for the offset posts of the bar bridge. Better consult with them before ordering.
I'm not sure either. It helps a LOT to know that the offset post holes are normal, and I think that's the biggest problem. According to the info I've been able to find online the spacing is right (3 1/4", which is as per the Hipshot spec sheet found at http://www.hipshotproducts.com/files/all/two_point_dimensions_drawing1.pdf ) but the offset may be a show stopper for that bridge. I have emailed Hipshot asking about the fit for my bass.
Best info I've been able to find online is that the Schaller 460 bridge (not the later models with a letter after the 460) is correct for this app, but they haven't been made for years so the few floating around are going to cost $$. I've started doing regular searches for one, but if I can't find one, I may resort to a bar bridge. I don't intend to re-install the BadAss, as I'm not a fan - IMO their biggest contribution is their weight, which does help to balance the EB-0.
Lots of good advice so far Al. That is one nasty set of fissures you have there. Not the usual big break or single fault line. I'm not sure how I'd approach this one.
I can't express how grateful I am for the excellent thoughts and advice given on thie forum. I really appreciate the expertise you guys share. I'm going to find out everything I can before deciding whether to tackle this myself. I realize that this thread has gone on at some length, but I really do respect the instrument and want to do a good, high quality repair that will result in a sound instrument that plays well and looks good. I believe that I can see anything that a guitar pro can see in terms of opening the crack, but I may not interpret it as well as a pro would. I'm hoping that some of those smaller cracks are just surface finish cracks and not in the wood. When i get more time to examine it carefully I'll report further.
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I just remembered who had put a Supertone on a pre-67: MARICOPAA (Chris S.) in this thread: http://bassoutpost.com/index.php?topic=2274.0
You might want to PM him and see what happened as a result of him sending his bass to Hipshot (be patient, I think he has limited web access) or just talk to Dave @ Hipshot.
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Here are my '65 and '67 bridge components side by side, '65 on right.
The spacing of the posts is the same on both, the difference is the posts themselves. The '67 bridge is thicker than the '65, so they changed the posts. Thread pitch is the same. So the Hipshot might work if you get the later posts.
BTW, my '67 bridge tilts a bit, too much slop designed into the post, I shimmed it to get it level. Otherwise intonates OK. I'm wondering if the posts are original. No prob w/ the '65.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/1967%20EBO%20Conversion/P1020031.jpg)
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I just remembered who had put a Supertone on a pre-67: MARICOPAA (Chris S.) in this thread: http://bassoutpost.com/index.php?topic=2274.0
You might want to PM him and see what happened as a result of him sending his bass to Hipshot (be patient, I think he has limited web access) or just talk to Dave @ Hipshot.
Thanks, Dave. After reading that thread it appears the Hipshot will fit on the early 60's Gibsons, but will be angled as per the pictures in the thread. I could live with that easier than the BadAss on there. However, I've also PM'd MARICOPAA to ask if he ever had any luck with Hipshot. Seems like someone ought to be making a bridge for all those late 50's / early 60's Gibsons!
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Best info I've been able to find online is that the Schaller 460 bridge (not the later models with a letter after the 460) is correct for this app, but they haven't been made for years so the few floating around are going to cost $$. I've started doing regular searches for one, but if I can't find one, I may resort to a bar bridge.
one of the last times I was at Chuck Levin's, they had a few of the Schaller's in the display case in the guitar repair shop. I can't remember if they were the 460 or the 460A, though. if your interested, the number is 301-946-8808. ask for the guitar repair shop.
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one of the last times I was at Chuck Levin's, they had a few of the Schaller's in the display case in the guitar repair shop. I can't remember if they were the 460 or the 460A, though. if your interested, the number is 301-946-8808. ask for the guitar repair shop.
Thanks, but dang - called them and the repair shop is closed on Mondays. I shall be "in suspenders" till tomorrow.....
But there's good news about the extra rout with the Model One pickup - the route was done cleanly and the pickup does snug down into the cavity nicely - the screws on the cover were loose, which made it look like the pickup was forced to sit above the body by a shallow cavity.
Didn't get time to work on the headstock last weekend - Saturday I moved #1 daughter from apartment A to apartment B...Sunday I helped with house cleanup and changed the power steering pump on daughter #2's 1991 Camaro. Not the worst job I've run into by a long shot, but getting the pulley off the front of the stinkin' pump took 1.5 frustrating hours just by itself.
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I just called Hipshot - missed Dave, but they said he'd call me tomorrow.
If it would help, I'd gladly ship him the bass so that he could get the measurements...after all, it would be to my own benefit, and then he'd have a hard-to-find product that should sell to early Gibson owners.
Anyone else need a bridge to fit an early 60's Gibson? Might help convince him if I could tell him there are others waiting...
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one of the last times I was at Chuck Levin's, they had a few of the Schaller's in the display case in the guitar repair shop. I can't remember if they were the 460 or the 460A, though. if your interested, the number is 301-946-8808. ask for the guitar repair shop.
I called and they have two Schaller bridges in the display case, but no markings to indicate which models they are. If you happen to go by there, could you possibly take a cell phone photo of each and mail them to me?
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sure. I'll try to stop by sometime in the next few days.
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Thanks! No call from Hipshot yet...so I called them!
Dave said...we have the bridge for you! I spoke with Bill in their shop...thanks to a couple of requests (one from a kind gent on this forum who loaned them a bass to measure) they have modified the bridge and it will replace their existing 2-point in about 4 weeks.
The mod is that the G-string side post hole will be elongated and a set screw will be added on the neck side. If you have the 50's through early 60's Gibson series, just back the screw out and the offset post will mount. If you have a later Gibson, run the set screw in to the point where it lines up the posts, and you're good to go.
VERY nice and helpful people! I think I'll start a separate thread on this just to make it easy to find.
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Edit: as I noted in my Gibson forum thread, I found the original bar bridge in the storage pocket of the case. I now plan to begin by using it, and buy a substitute if needed.
BUT - after reflection - given the possible complexity of the headstock crack, unless I can satisfy myself that there is only ONE crack, I'm going to have a luthier do it...and I'm not satisfied about that.
I spoke with the owner of Spotlight Music here in Fort Collins and he assures me that their luthier Dan has repaired quite a few Gibson headstock breaks. Rob knows his stuff and has treated me right - I'll take the bass to meet with their luthier Friday AM and see what he has to say about the headstock on the EB-0.
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Good luck!
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Seconded...
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Well, the luthier thought he could repair it without trouble. He said worst potential problem was that it might crack farther when he opened it up to get glue in it - which I understand. Hopefully that won't happen, but you must get the crack open far enough to get glue in it. He has the appropriate cauls to clamp it properly - should be ready next week. He uses Probond, which is a polyurethane glue. Reading up on it, sounds like a good material to use.
Price is $80, which seems more than fair.
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Seems like a good deal to me too.
Say Pilgrim, I noticed you are in Ft. Collins maybe when you get it done we can get together... I'm in Westminster.
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Well, the luthier thought he could repair it without trouble. He said worst potential problem was that it might crack farther when he opened it up to get glue in it - which I understand. Hopefully that won't happen, but you must get the crack open far enough to get glue in it. He has the appropriate cauls to clamp it properly - should be ready next week. He uses Probond, which is a polyurethane glue. Reading up on it, sounds like a good material to use.
Price is $80, which seems more than fair.
Very reasonable. I'll have to check out that glue too!
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Very reasonable price.
Not all polyurethane glues are created equal., that's for sure. I've never used Probond, but an acoustic guitar builder who's active on several online forums has used it for years and apparently still swears by it.
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I found a couple of different materials called Probond when I searched. One is a polyurethane, but the others look more like a yellow glue. one of them is designated "interior", and another is designated "stainable". I suspect he uses this product:
http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Interior-12-Ounce-Container-P9702/dp/B0000DD49J
I found a review of the stainable here:
http://miniatures.about.com/od/materialsforminiatures/fr/elmerstainable.htm
And the polyurethane is this stuff:
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/product-showcase/adhesives-probond-polyurethane-glue.shtml
So now I'm not sure what he's using, but I'd suspect the Interior stuff.
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I looked around too. I went to the Elmers site and wound up looking at MSDS on Probond Interior/Exterior and it basically looked very benign. However, their Ultimate Glue states that it is poly and the MSDS reads like mad scientist stew ;D My thought is that Probond is Elmers answer to Titebond II & III - their website is sparse on details.
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The luthier I mentioned uses the polyurethane type Probond. But only for certain applications.
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For wood to wood applications, I only use Titebond.
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For wood to wood applications, I only use Titebond.
Original Titebond for me, not II or III.
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Well, I just got the call that the bass is ready with the headstock crack repaired....and instead of charging me $80, because I already had the tuners off and strings removed, he reduced the charge to $40!
There ARE still some honest people left in the world. I'm off to get it........
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Nice to find an honest soul in this day and time!
Just think, now you have an extra $40 for parts!
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Can't wait to see it!
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Yeah, no doubt, lets see that bad boy.
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OK, you galoots.....
Here it is, strung and ready to rock & roll...it plays well with nice action! I found that the toggle switch changes the Dimarzio pickup setting - must be a split coil setup...one direction of the switch is louder and more rough than the other. Not bad at all....and the action is nice. The Intonation is even pretty darn close!
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P7260015.jpg)
The headstock - from one angle the flash makes the repair lines MUCH more visible than they actually are - from a different angle they're much harder to see, which is more like how it actually looks to the eye:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P7260003.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P7260004.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P7260007.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P7260012.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P7260006.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P7260010.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P7260008.jpg)
So here it is - playable and with a new set of Labella Deep Talkin' flats installed, sporting the original bar bridge:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Gibson%20EB-0%201964/P7260014.jpg)
And as soon as the mudbucker pickup comes in, I'll have two pickups and I'll need to figure out a wiring scheme.
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That is a sweet looking bass! I'm glad you were able to rescue it.
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Looks like he was able to do a good solid repair job on that crack.
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Did you ask him how he went about doing it?
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Did you ask him how he went about doing it?
I didn't see him - spoke with him briefly over the phone, and picked up the bass later. He did tell me what kind of glue he used earlier.
I'm rather impressed with the Dimarzio pickup...it has a real growl and wooliness itself, especially on one of the two switch settings. Pairing it with a mudbucker is surely going to create a distinctive sound!
And I'm pretty pleased with the bar bridge. Evidently when it came off it was reasonably well intonated, and the adjustment is still there...so when I re-mounted it and strung it, the intonation is close. I'll wait a bit for the neck to settle in before attempting to tweak it. With that bridge, I'm pretty sure that "close enough" is as good as it will ever get.
What a nice, light, well-balanced bass it is. A pleasure to play...and the neck is fast.