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Rickenbacker Basses / Re: Need help with 4003 saddles
« on: March 25, 2012, 07:07:34 AM »
Yes, I thought I was too, I've just adjusted my Jazz neck to dead straight and it sounds just like a 4001
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Assuming the neck is dead straight (Rics unlike Fenders should be adjusted to zero relief), I'd deepen the saddle grooves.
If it's not straight, I'd force the thin-wall wrench on the nut and adjust the neck. Don't use too much force... this worked fine for me on a couple of Ric basses.
When the neck is dead straight, you might not need to lower the bridge saddles.
My problem with my new 4003 is the RIC-brand truss rod wrench I own won't fit the nuts properly because the truss rod cavity is too shallow and there isn't enough room to slide the driver over the nuts! Duh! Other than that, all is well.
Mine had a very low output on the E string out of the box. It took 2 luthiers to finally sort it out after I had been trying for months. I have read on the Ric forum about this being quite a common problem on the newer ones.
Maybe I have a tin ear, but my e-string sounds fine to me. No dead spots that I can detect. Booms right out there.Are we talking, dead spots or badly adjusted pickup poles and What Ric forum thread.
"Roundabout"...
Mark, I'm sure a truss rod tutorial will be helpful. That said, I understand why Scott sent it back. May have been 100% fixable, but he shouldn't have to pay anywhere near that for one with a bunch of issues that need to be addressed. I know I wouldn't.I thought the pictures in the auction said it all, the next step is only a decision.
Is that to keep them from bending down again?I've done the very same with a few rods now, although I made a twin washer from some 4130 sheet. It stops the nuts chewing into the ally block and helps keep the thread ends straighter to the block, but this design will always bend, just a case of doing as above to get the rods back to normal and then going easy on them.