Gibson varitone circuit help

[top028]

I am looking at ways to re-wire my eb-3, but keep all the mojo in there. Has anyone made a lespaul studio style varitone for bass? I am thinking something like a ripper bass with one volume. I am thinking about replacing a volume with a pickup selector switch, and use varitone for sound options.
I am looking for circuits to help me use the stock coil and some caps to do something useful!

Ethical question: Should I leave stock wiring alone and pull out the guts for safe keeping and start from scratch? Its a 70 eb-3l slot head with a once broke neck.

[chromium]

I haven't done much experimenting beyond the inductor bypass stuff you saw in that other old thread... but you're on the right track digging around through other Gibson models' wiring for ideas...  The Howard Roberts Fusion and L6-S used some novel passive filtering ideas that could be adapted to bass.

As for the ethical question, I'm of the "it's your bass, do as you please" camp.  I usually try to preserve the original harness- i.e. disconnect the pickup leads and lift it all out, and build an entirely new harness - pots and all.  That way I can revert it back if I want to sell it, and the end result usually performs better with all new parts anyway.

Welcome to the forum!

[top028]

I have settled on my circuit similar to the ripper, but I need some help finding the best componants.

I am going to use a new switch in the "varitone position" as a pickup select, 1. both in series, 2. neck, 3. both parallel, 4. bridge. Going to  1 volume, I am going to replace the tone knobs with a varitone from certain bass, and a blend knob for the varitone. I may move the output jack to the front or add regular treble roll off.

The cavity really needs sheilding, so I am going to gut it for safe keeping and start from scratch. I know in my searches I came across a member who supplies really great replacement switches and cover plates.  I would like a 6 pole plate for the new varitone, and a plain black switch plate as a reinforcement washer for the jack on the face plate (if I do go through with it. A band mate had a mishap with his jack on a non reverse firebird....)

[chromium]

I have settled on my circuit similar to the ripper, but I need some help finding the best componants.

I am going to use a new switch in the "varitone position" as a pickup select, 1. both in series, 2. neck, 3. both parallel, 4. bridge. Going to  1 volume, I am going to replace the tone knobs with a varitone from certain bass, and a blend knob for the varitone. I may move the output jack to the front or add regular treble roll off.

The cavity really needs sheilding, so I am going to gut it for safe keeping and start from scratch. I know in my searches I came across a member who supplies really great replacement switches and cover plates.  I would like a 6 pole plate for the new varitone, and a plain black switch plate as a reinforcement washer for the jack on the face plate (if I do go through with it. A band mate had a mishap with his jack on a non reverse firebird....)

Seems like lately I'm buying most of the common guitar parts (CTS pots, Switchcraft jacks, knobs, etc) from sellers on Ebay and Amazon.  I still have a big spool of braided cloth push back wire that came from Stew Mac.  I've found that when using the latter, I haven't had to perform any "extra credit" shielding (conductive paint, tape, etc).  Having the braid grounded on the pot cans seems to create enough of a shield.  Haven't had any trouble in live settings thus far.

As for the rotary switch and plates, I'm not sure of a specific source for exact components... but there may be some alternatives out there.  I've bought switch/dial plates from Allied before (for use with efx builds).  Example:
http://www.alliedelec.com/electroswitch-inc-p115/70252158/

You might check these sources for rotary switches:
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/rotary-switches-1/
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/search.html?searchQuery=rotary+switch

Hope that helps a bit!

[Granny Gremlin]

Small Bear is also good for jacks and pots (Alpha not CTS - but they're good).

My personal preference these days is Neutrik open frame jacks (sturdier, heavier guage metal leaves than Switchcraft) and Bourns pots.  The Neutriks you can get stupid cheap from BitchesLoveMySwitches.com in Brooklyn; they also have insanely good prices on Alpha pots (16mm; knurled shaft only though). Bourns pots I seem to find only at larger suppliers such as Mouser.

If you're using humbuckers (the original E3 pups) you don't need shielding.  If your control plate cover has no foil on it, glue some on by all means, but don't bother with the cavity.

[chromium]

BitchesLoveMySwitches.com

I hadn't seen them before- thanks for the link.  Good prices on the stomp switches there!

[Granny Gremlin]

yep.  cheap pedal boxes too (fine for paint finish - take a lot of prep for natural/acid etching).  and what, like 75c per pot.  unbeatable really.

[40Hz]

mammothelectronics.com is a good source for quality parts suitable for music projects at better than average prices.

Regarding the ethics question in the OP, I'd have to say I'd be more inclined to pull the entire original electronics assembly out and do conpletely new electronics if modding an older/vintage instrument. But that's me.

[mrb327]

 

I would be inclined to do the same, completely reversible without needing to rebuild the circuit