2013 Gibson EB bass mods

Andrew · February 14, 2014, 03:13:29 PM

I came across a lefty EB bass in a store today. I'm not in love with the look but I hadn't seen a lefty before so I gave it a try. To my surprise, it's a very nice bass. Plays nice, sounds quite good plugged in and weighs 7.45 lbs. on my digital scale. Very comfy. It a satin finish sunburst.

I'm wondering if anyone has done any mods to their EB basses to tweak their looks?
Elephant ear tuners, chrome pickup covers, different knobs, etc.

Also how much work would it be to turn the satin finish into a typical gloss finish?

amptech · February 15, 2014, 07:07:24 AM

Look out for the ' can't polish a turd ' comments

Chrome pickups, some might even want a three point!

My friend just got one, sunburst, and I must say I like the 'new' bass look as is. I like metal pups, and elephants as well,
but the overall look of a new design leaves me with the impression that this looks best as is.

If it were were mine I'd maybe change the vol/tone knobs, nothing more.

If I decided to keep it, I'd give it a new finish (gloss) because I dont like the way thin satin finishes age, but that's me..

Andrew · February 15, 2014, 10:01:40 AM

I'm not a fan of the satin finish either. Can the satin finish be clear sprayed over to gloss or does it need to be stripped off and started from bare wood?

dadagoboi · February 15, 2014, 10:27:29 AM

Quote from: Andrew on February 15, 2014, 10:01:40 AM
I'm not a fan of the satin finish either. Can the satin finish be clear sprayed over to gloss or does it need to be stripped off and started from bare wood?

Quote from: Andrew on February 14, 2014, 03:13:29 PM
how much work would it be to turn the satin finish into a typical gloss finish?

You can spray right over it after making sure it's cleaned of any oil or wax, mostly due to handling.

You can also easily gloss it up with some polishing compound or car wax. It wouldn't take more than a 2 hours by hand.

Satin paint is simply gloss paint with flatting paste added. It's more difficult to keep it uniformly satin over time than it is to bring it to an even gloss. It will reveal any bad prep work once it's shined up though. That shouldn't be a problem with a sunburst.

Satin sunburst. Does that mean it was foggy that morning?

Barklessdog · February 16, 2014, 03:21:38 PM

Is the grain sealed?

If not it will look like a granny that was been waxed and shined.

Andrew · February 16, 2014, 07:09:53 PM

Does anyone know if these Hipshot tuners can direct replace the Grover tuners on the EB basses?

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Bass_tuners/Hipshot_Ultralite_Bass_Tuner_with_Fender-style_Knob.html

amptech · February 17, 2014, 03:01:12 AM

Quote from: Barklessdog on February 16, 2014, 03:21:38 PM
Is the grain sealed?

If not it will look like a granny that was been waxed and shined.

It will, indeed!

The best would be a new finish, with grain filler, sealer and the whole lot. But that's not something you usually do on a new axe.
I guess I would at least use some clear sealer and sand it level if the grain pores weren't too deep - and then clearcoat it.

dadagoboi · February 17, 2014, 06:58:24 AM

Quote from: amptech on February 17, 2014, 03:01:12 AM
It will, indeed!

The best would be a new finish, with grain filler, sealer and the whole lot. But that's not something you usually do on a new axe.
I guess I would at least use some clear sealer and sand it level if the grain pores weren't too deep - and then clearcoat it.

If the woodworking was good enough to do a sunburst it should be good enough to bring out the gloss on a properly done satin finish. Just my opinion, of course.

Also my opinion: Wipe on grain filler is a modern myth promoted by companies like Reranch to sell their amateur oriented products. It's too slow a technique to use in a production factory and unnecessary if you know what you're doing and have decent wood to work with. Preparation is key. There's a reason sandpaper is made in so many different grades and types.

Honduras mahogany. No grain filler. 2 straight nitro coats over 2 sealer coats and 1 toner coat. All shot in a 48 hour period. Minimal sanding after first sealer coat, none after that. No sealer on maple neck, only toner and 2 nitro coats.

practice, practice, practice

Highlander · February 17, 2014, 04:58:23 PM

Show-off...

dadagoboi · February 17, 2014, 05:19:32 PM

Quote from: CAR-54 on February 17, 2014, 04:58:23 PM
Show-off...

I've shot a lot of paint over the years. Can't fix an amp worth a damn.

amptech · February 18, 2014, 02:52:02 AM

Quote from: dadagoboi on February 17, 2014, 05:19:32 PM
I've shot a lot of paint over the years. Can't fix an amp worth a damn.

That is, as most of the finishes I've seen that you have done, great... I guess I was just thinking out loud, what I would have done if I got an EB bass and decided to keep it. I forgot to mention it would take me 48 weeks!

But I think finishing is a fun hobby, really. I'm thinking of 'investing' in a spray gun, actually. I have a good compressor and bought a real shitty cheap gun - a spray can is way better. I see now that a 'starter series' DeVilbiss gun doesn't cost that much. (I was recomended
that brand) Is that OK to start shooting with?

Barklessdog · February 18, 2014, 04:08:04 AM

I had a shop teacher who showed us that you can make a gloss finish using sand paper and nothing else. Turned out like glass, if you sand enough with higher grades.

amptech · February 18, 2014, 05:05:01 AM

Aah, sandpaper.. the painter's oscilloscope

Agree to that, but I guess it will be difficult if the finish is not plane (level) to begin with, as is the case with many of these new gibbys.

dadagoboi · February 18, 2014, 05:55:22 AM

Quote from: amptech on February 18, 2014, 05:05:01 AM
Aah, sandpaper.. the painter's oscilloscope

Agree to that, but I guess it will be difficult if the finish is not plane (level) to begin with, as is the case with many of these new gibbys.

Good analogy! Re not being level: That's why they make 50 grit sandpaper and sanding blocks. My finish schedule is 50 (if necessary)/80/120/180/240. Then sealer. 320 then topcoat twice. Wet sand with 400 then micromesh 1500-12000. Buff with Meguiar's Ultimate compound. Probably total 2 hours sanding time in the entire process. A stationary drum or belt sander would speed up the process.

amptech · February 18, 2014, 06:20:59 AM

Quote from: dadagoboi on February 18, 2014, 05:55:22 AM
Good analogy! Re not being level: That's why they make 50 grit sandpaper and sanding blocks. My finish schedule is 50 (if necessary)/80/120/180/240. Then sealer. 320 then topcoat twice. Wet sand with 400 then micromesh 1500-12000. Buff with Meguiar's Ultimate compound. Probably total 2 hours sanding time in the entire process. A stationary drum or belt sander would speed up the process.

But do you have a tip on what kind of gun to 'start out' with? I'm not going to offer finishing in my shop, but I have a bunch of old basses and guitars messed up by kids (including myself) so I'll be doing many projects the next couple of years..

Is the DeVilbiss i mentioned good enough? Or are there other good starter guns(!) ??