Finally getting around to my bass build

[Highlander]

Did somebody say... Clampett...!

[drbassman]

Did somebody say... Clampett...!

Just call me Jed!  Weeeee doggies!

[drbassman]

Well, these were the "best of times and worst of times" this morning.  I took the form out of the oven and the bent wood turned out just about perfect.  I really didn't see anything amiss.  So, I took the wood and glued it onto the back sound board.  All went well!

Then, I picked up the second piece of bendable wood I had ordered. It's maple as I wanted to try both mahogany and maple to compare.  Bottom line, I hated bending the maple.  Much stiffer and really mean to work with.  It's about 90-95% bent the way I want it.  I won't be trying the maple again, too much hassle!

Overall, I would use the mahogany again.  I need to compare cost, effort and convenience between the bent wood sides vs. the routed out cavities.  I have to admit the bent wood is unique and really going to look nice.  However, with shipping, two strips, enough for two basses, cost $187 with shipping.  I can carve a bass for for a lot less!  Carbide router bits last a long time!!!  The problem with carving is the mess it makes and the time.  So, lots to think about on my days off!

Here's my makeshift oven.  Not at all sophisticated!



Here's the heater.  Full on it kept the swisscheese oven around 95-100 degrees.



Here's the wood with clamps removed.  Pretty nice!  Stays put.



Tada!



I clamped it around another form so I could glue on the bottom sound board without it moving.



Here's the cherry top, I have another just like it for the back.



The bottom's all glued up and will get the center block installed and top glued on tomorrow or over the weekend.

[Dave W]

It did come out nice. But it's hard to justify that kind of material cost unless you plan to sell these up in the Alembic or Fodera price range.

[Lightyear]

Hey Doc, I have a thought/suggestion in regards to routing the bodies out.  Have you considered prepping your blank but instead of hollowing out the body and leaving a back why not just use a jig saw or a scroll saw and just cut the guts out of it with a jig or scroll saw leaving a 3/8" perimeter of wood?  This would be  fairly close to what you are doing with the $$$$ bendy wood.  You then just glue on your top and bottom.  This would a be a lot faster than routing and way cheaper than the miracle wood option - you could even leave a center block with very little trouble.  Depending on the species and dimensions you could probably do this for less than $25 per body.

[drbassman]

Hey Doc, I have a thought/suggestion in regards to routing the bodies out.  Have you considered prepping your blank but instead of hollowing out the body and leaving a back why not just use a jig saw or a scroll saw and just cut the guts out of it with a jig or scroll saw leaving a 3/8" perimeter of wood?  This would be  fairly close to what you are doing with the $$$$ bendy wood.  You then just glue on your top and bottom.  This would a be a lot faster than routing and way cheaper than the miracle wood option - you could even leave a center block with very little trouble.  Depending on the species and dimensions you could probably do this for less than $25 per body.

This is how I did my 4005 clone.  You read my mind!  I just might go back to that.

[drbassman]

It did come out nice. But it's hard to justify that kind of material cost unless you plan to sell these up in the Alembic or Fodera price range.

I agree.  The mahogany bass will probably end up as mine!

[Lightyear]

This is how I did my 4005 clone.  You read my mind!  I just might go back to that.

Yup, and you could make yourself a template and use one those snazzy spiral up/down cut bearing guided combo bits and and it would clean up right nice. 

[Rob]

Yup, and you could make yourself a template and use one those snazzy spiral up/down cut bearing guided combo bits and and it would clean up right nice.

Thinking the same thing.  Template on a router table for cleanp.

[drbassman]

Thinking the same thing.  Template on a router table for cleanp.

Yeah, I have a bunch of those carbide compression router bits.  I'll make some final decisions after I finish the 3 basses I have hanging now!

[drbassman]

Well, I hate to say it, but the bass turned out great.  It is so tempting.  I think I'm going to keep this method in mind for a higher end model, maybe something I could do for folks with plenty of money to blow!





The center block/neck pocket extension goes in next.  The gap at the heel with disappear when I rout it out for the block/heel wood.

[Pilgrim]

Der Uberclampenfuhrer does beautiful work!

[drbassman]

Der Uberclampenfuhrer does beautiful work!

Ya, Danke!

I did some research on bending my own sides using steam and everything I found basically said I can't do it with the tight radius on the horns.  Makes sense.  I'd consider building the steam cab and presses if I thought it might work.  I'm really fond of the hollow body design, as costly and impractical as it is!!!

[Lightyear]

Ya, Danke!

I did some research on bending my own sides using steam and everything I found basically said I can't do it with the tight radius on the horns.  Makes sense.  I'd consider building the steam cab and presses if I thought it might work.  I'm really fond of the hollow body design, as costly and impractical as it is!!!

If you can find some air dried wood I'm willing to bet you could though you would have to use compression straps on the outside radius' on the horns.  Everything I've read says to expect a certain percentage of failure on those really bends though.  Even with the cost of air dried wood you might be fifteen cents on the dollar compared to the bendy wood.

[drbassman]

Good points.  I'll have to investigate air-dried 1/8" or so guitar grade wood.