Mystery bass! Help me ID this thing!

Started by godofthunder, November 03, 2013, 07:15:42 AM

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Pilgrim

The Deep Talkin' Flats are classics - my favorite strings.  I hope you like them.  They ought to be perfect for a period bass like that.
"A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any other invention with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila."

amptech

Thomastik Jazz flats are the most beautiful sounding, best playing and longest lasting flats I´ve ever used.
Not everyone likes them, though. They come in 36" too. There is a .100 - .043 set and a .096 - .044 if I remember correctly. They have an amazing response when played fingerstyle, even after many years.

godofthunder

Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird

godofthunder

   I have been using Deep Talkin' Flats on my fretless Precisions for a while now, love 'em. In the mid 70's there was a big shift to round wounds it was nice to rediscover these.
Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird

Dave W

The LaBellas aren't very flexible, but that's not the same thing as tension. They actually have a small core and will put lower than average tension on your neck, size for size.

godofthunder

 Unplugged this bass has a great open resonant sound. I don't want to do do much to it. I'll get the pup rewound if that is the problem. What bugs me is some dope used brush on varnish (I think marine) on the body. While it leveled out pretty good there are bits of contaminants  in the finish. I may wet sand it with 1500 and buff it out. I'll go slow and ask the experts before I tear into it.
Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird

rahock

I don't know what the finish looks like, but as a general rule, I would start lighter with a 2000 or 3000 and see what happens. Go as light as you can get away with. You can always go back and hit it heavier if you need too, but if you go too heavy , there's no going back :o.
Rick

godofthunder

Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird

amptech

Quote from: rahock on November 10, 2013, 06:11:39 AM
I don't know what the finish looks like, but as a general rule, I would start lighter with a 2000 or 3000 and see what happens. Go as light as you can get away with. You can always go back and hit it heavier if you need too, but if you go too heavy , there's no going back :o.
Rick

I'm no finish expert but I used that procedure on a EB3 with bad finish - using that flexible 3M cloth that StuMac sells, worked great!
I'm also fond of those pads (1500-15000 grit set) for touch ups.

rahock

Quote from: amptech on November 11, 2013, 02:27:11 AM
I'm no finish expert but I used that procedure on a EB3 with bad finish - using that flexible 3M cloth that StuMac sells, worked great!
I'm also fond of those pads (1500-15000 grit set) for touch ups.

I used to use a product  called MicroFinish , which was a cushioned abrasive. A cushy flexible sandpaper that sounds like what you're describing. It came in a wide range of really fine grits and was the best thing ever. I used it to wet sand cars in a detailing biz.
Rick

Pilgrim

For buffing, I've used 3M Finessse-It II machine polish.  Worked very nicely and doesn't cut fast enough to get away from you.
"A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any other invention with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila."

rahock

Yep, 3M or Meguiars Machine Glaze are the best things I've found.
Rick

dadagoboi

#27
Quote from: rahock on November 11, 2013, 05:36:36 AM
I used to use a product  called MicroFinish , which was a cushioned abrasive. A cushy flexible sandpaper that sounds like what you're describing. It came in a wide range of really fine grits and was the best thing ever. I used it to wet sand cars in a detailing biz.
Rick

It's called micro mesh.  It's what I use to level my finishes before buffing.  Goes from 1500 grit (the equivalent of 400 wet or dry) to 12000 (no equivalent to any other paper).  Stuff lasts forever.  I have a set of all 9 grits, 3"x6" squares, I've used them on 20 basses so far, still going strong.  I keep them soaking in water)  Can't say enough about them!  They pay for themselves many times over

This:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MICRO-MESH-FINISHING-SET-PEN-BLANK-WOOD-TURNING-PEN-KIT-/221309538237?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3387138fbd

For machine buffing I use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound.  Used by hand it's a great guitar polish.

This is a fresh nitro finish cured 10 days.  45 minutes with micromesh, 10 with Ultimate Compound and buffer/hand work.





Dave W


rahock


Great looking finish. Yeah, it was Micromesh. Thanks.
Rick