Ric 4003s/8 Repair Thread

Started by chromium, January 11, 2013, 12:18:33 AM

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Hörnisse

There is one on Ebay that has the same looking route.  Seems like a bad design to handle the extra pressure of those strings.  I'm looking forward to seeing how yours turns out. 


drbassman

I have used the thin CA from Stew Mac for cracks and it has worked for me so for.  Had forgotten about it!  If you can apply it from within the rout, all the better.  Be careful if use use thin CA.  It really does run well in tight cracks and you wouldn't want it running all over the finish if you use too much.   Been there, done that.
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

Rob

#17
Quote from: drbassman on January 21, 2013, 06:52:01 AM
I have used the thin CA from Stew Mac for cracks and it has worked for me so for.  Had forgotten about it!  If you can apply it from within the rout, all the better.  Be careful if use use thin CA.  It really does run well in tight cracks and you wouldn't want it running all over the finish if you use too much.   Been there, done that.
AND don't go nuts trying to fill it all at once.  (It can be coming out another orifice)  I make hide glue in a small jar and keep it in a miniture crock pot like they use for scents.  Keep a thermometer in there with it so it dosen't overheat and you are good to go.
Rob Francis

chromium

Just ordered some thin CA glue from Stew-mac.  I'll experiment with that when it gets here.  It might be the best bet if it will flow well in the seams, and the fast cure time should be ok since I have the wing+neck alignment really close now after installing that pole piece route plug.  That neck structure there feels a lot more rigid.

Here are some pics of the latest...

I removed the varnish, and plugged that huge pole piece route:




Got the swimming pool plug shaped, fitted, and some channels cut for the truss rods:




Checking the fit with the toaster and pickguard:






drbassman

Nicely done!  I would think your efforts will help stabalize the neck.  I hope it works! 

Just watch that thin CA, just a little, in steps, is best.
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

Pilgrim

Quote from: chromium on January 21, 2013, 11:19:21 PM

Got the swimming pool plug shaped, fitted, and some channels cut for the truss rods:




That is absolutely lovely work!!  Nicely visualized and beautifully executed.  Seeing it, I finally understand the approach you have been describing. 
"A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any other invention with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila."

chromium

#21
Hey thanks!  I've made no shortage of mistakes along the way- just glad that I haven't had to to exercise any complete "do-overs" yet  :)

That little gap between the swimming pool block and neck bothers me.  I want it to be as snug as possible there before I glue it in, and so I'm gonna slice a thin piece of maple, veneer it, and reshape that section for a tighter fit.  Other than that, I'm hopeful this all works out!

Thanks Bill and Rob for the heads-up on the thin CA.  I'll watch carefully for any leaks, and I'll probably mask the rest of the body back there when I'm injecting it - just to help mitigate risk of a potential mess.

I shouldn't even be thinking about this yet, but speaking of finish repair... I already have some amber, gibson-style trans cherry, and clear nitro lacquer.  I know that I'm dealing with conversion varnish here, but (pending a compatibility test in one of the body cavities) would you all advise for or against the use of the nitro for touching up the damage?  (planning to drop fill, cut and buff it out). Hate to have to invest in more finish that will largely sit unused - especially since I'm just drop filling and that's sure to be visible/detectable... but I also want to do as good a job as I possibly can.  ???

Denis

Beautiful work! Even your maple fill block is beautiful!
Why did Salvador Dali cross the road?
Clocks.

FrankieTbird

C'mon, you couldn't get the grain to match up any better than that?!?   ;D ;)

Just kiddin', really nice work!  My compliments.

In case anyone is looking for thin CA glue and you don't want the hassle of mail -ordering, the Permatex Super Glue in the tiny .10 oz. tube is also very thin (like water).  I bought in the 4-pack card, I think from Walmart (may have been from an auto parts store though).  For thicker glue, the Loctite Super Glue Gel works well.

chromium

Quote from: FrankieTbird on January 22, 2013, 01:35:13 PM
C'mon, you couldn't get the grain to match up any better than that?!?   ;D ;)

Haha now you're just messin' with my OCD! 

But now that you mention it....    ;D

Highlander

The random mind of a Silver Surfer...
If research was easy, it wouldn't need doing...
Staring at that event horizon is a dirty job, but someone has to do it; something's going to come back out of it one day...

Rob


Lightyear

Nicely done!

If you have just a couple of very small areas to repair the finish on you can use CA glue to spot fill - depending on the viscosity it will self level to a certain degree.  You can then sand/buff/polish the spot repair to blend.  If you search on the ReRanch forum there is lots of talk of the "Super Glue" ding repair.  Might work.

gearHed289

Looks like a great idea, and great execution. Thanks for posting!

drbassman

I use veneer to fill in cracks and errors in my joining all the time.  Works great!  Looking good.
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!