cooked maple = balderdash!!!! try cooked mahogany...

sniper · May 07, 2012, 04:25:51 PM

Dr. thanks for the pups, they will go perfect in the rebuild. The tuners are a bit iffy as some of the body bases are bent. I will see what I can do with them. Love those pups though.

I got the neck blank in today along with some extra Maho to thicken the head with if I want to make it a slot head. The head pitch is rather shallow so that is the direction I am going even though there were no 66 slotheads. I need to get a tracing of a slothead both front and back if I can. I'll post something in here and ask for tracings. The guard tracing and the head tracing will help a lot, thanks again.

drbassman · May 07, 2012, 07:50:50 PM

Quote from: sniper on May 07, 2012, 04:25:51 PM
Dr. thanks for the pups, they will go perfect in the rebuild. The tuners are a bit iffy as some of the body bases are bent. I will see what I can do with them. Love those pups though.

I got the neck blank in today along with some extra Maho to thicken the head with if I want to make it a slot head. The head pitch is rather shallow so that is the direction I am going even though there were no 66 slotheads. I need to get a tracing of a slothead both front and back if I can. I'll post something in here and ask for tracings. The guard tracing and the head tracing will help a lot, thanks again.

My pleasure, glad I could help!

sniper · May 10, 2012, 09:50:41 AM

"Hello Clarence;

That doesn't look too bad. I've honestly fixed worse cases than that. Like the Gibson SG that was thrown head first into a wall by an angry spouse.....

I don't see any need to replace the neck. I'd put on a new fingerboard and rebuild the headstock. I'd probably replace the outboard wings on the headstock and put a mahogany veneer on the front surface. Maybe a veneer on the back too, depending on how deep the charring is. Unless there's some big splits or something I'm not seeing, that's all restorable. It would look fine under a transparent finish; no major scarring.

I'm not looking for the job, because I'm quite booked up right now, but I could rebuild it, repaint it, and have it back together and looking like new for under $1000 total, assuming that you've got most of the hardware.

You found yourself a bargain.

Bruce Johnson"

i think that said it all. i wonder how many mudbuckers i could fit on it ... i have three ... just kidding!

dadagoboi · May 10, 2012, 11:13:53 AM

$1000? I could do it for that...I'd just buy a perfectly sound EB-O and sell it to you. Give you $5 credit for that piece of firewood

Seriously, I might understand if it was a cherished bass of yours that burned but it ain't. Resell it and start over and be glad you haven't sunk more money into it.

sniper · May 10, 2012, 12:55:36 PM

i think Bruces rate is a little high but there is going to be a lot of work in getting this back to a working order and have it look respectable and this quote is with a clear refin.

i would agree with you except for the instances of my buying and trading for a few years that has yielded me a lot of parts that are totally profit for me. i probably have enough parts to build at least three basses all of which would have very respectable pieces in the build ranging from NOS Gibby parts to names like Schaller, ABM, Gotoh, Dimarzio and a few others. my cash outlay so far is $182 for a salvagable Maho body and a new Maho neck blank. i admit i would have to buy fret wire but i do have two Rosewood fretboards and two bone nut blanks along with chokes, pots, bridges, tuners, covers, varitone plates (my lord!!!) and NOS headstock overlays with MOP inlaid logos. parts are not a problem. a rebuild would require almost no cash outlay in parts procurement unless i can't get it out of my head that i want a slotted headstock which would require some machine work to make me a set of long string posts i can add to a regular set of tuners. i already have a set of embossed 71 type EB3 pups to go on it so it is going to become a hodgepodge of Schaller, Gibby parts and Gibby styles.

i could probably even relic it and sell it to some idiot out there for an "original" at an inflated price, make a profit, as people will buy anything.

waiting for Fedex.

sniper · May 11, 2012, 05:41:20 PM

got it in. some of the serial number is readable and i might be able to recover the whole thing with a little prudence. so far it is 38X857. the third number looks like a 0 or a 6. i didn't realize a 66 EBO was so thin. the body measures 1 1/4 or 1 9/32". i will have to take a mic to it to make sure.

i am investigating the head pitch although it looks like 11 degrees.

Dave W · May 11, 2012, 07:07:56 PM

Maybe the fire burned off some of the thickness.

drbassman · May 11, 2012, 07:53:11 PM

If you could do the work yourself, it would worth IMHO. A grand would go a long way to buying one in much better condition.

sniper · May 11, 2012, 08:51:43 PM

i do not plan on spending near that much on this rebuild. if at all possible i will do as much of the work as i can. a neck profie on my blank and a neck set along with a fret job should do me fine.

nofi · May 12, 2012, 07:16:48 AM

are you sure this is a gibson.

btw you can buy a new epi ebo for less than 200 bucks.

sniper · May 12, 2012, 09:33:56 AM

i am sure it is a Gibby from the neck joint and the numbers that i can see on the back of the head. they are all carbonized but 5 out of 6 are readable.

my father had two salvage yards while i was a young man and i guess it is in my blood to mess with wrecks.

Pilgrim · May 12, 2012, 10:22:00 AM

I was thinking it could be the start of a headstock-less Steinberger thingie.

sniper · May 12, 2012, 10:41:19 AM

right now the plan is to keep the heating pad on the neck joint and keep injecting water droplets into the joint with my insulin syringe until i can lift it apart.

then i will hit the body with a sanding block.

drbassman · May 13, 2012, 07:14:50 AM

Quote from: sniper on May 12, 2012, 10:41:19 AM
right now the plan is to keep the heating pad on the neck joint and keep injecting water droplets into the joint with my insulin syringe until i can lift it apart.

then i will hit the body with a sanding block.

Do you need to remove the neck? I always try to avoid that.

sniper · May 13, 2012, 10:56:22 AM

the neck is toast. from the 5th fret to the nut it has lost over 1/4" of wood. the nut measures 1 3/16" now. one could probably scarf joint a new half neck on it and it would be fine.