Jack Hack

[PhilT]

I've discovered that the tone control on my Jack Casady has been by-passed.  The clue was the knob does nothing and I confirmed it with a small mirror and a bright torch in the F-hole. Reconnecting it looks like a tedious job and I can't see any obvious sign of a capacitor. Would it be worth the effort?

Also one of the rear posts on the bridge is has pulled out a little. On a solid body my solution would be a good smack with a rubber mallet, but I'm worried about cracking the body. Is there a better way?

[Basvarken]

I'd say yes it is worth it. Unless you say you never use the tone pot.

While you're at it I'd replace the pots with decent CTS pots.




The bridge stud is long enough to keep your bridge in perfect place. It will never got enough lift to come out entirely.
If you really want to put it back down, take out the bridge post and gently push the insert down with the back of a screwdriver or something similar.

[dadagoboi]

You may be able to push the stud in with hand pressure.  Try that.  If it goes in easily, which in my personal Epi TBird was the case, pull it back out and swab some titebond in the hole and push the stud back in.  Let dry overnight.  Worked for me.

[uwe]

I liked the "in the hole" part of the last post, dunno why, it just spoke with me.   Not sure about the "let dry overnight"-bit, but I guess it's horses for courses. 

I never ever use tone pots, but it still bothers me when thy don't work properly, even though bypassing them in case of contiuous non-use will improve sound a little due to the more direct signal.

Have no fear with the rubber mallet - the Epi JC is a sturdy beast, not a cigar box feather weight. Placing a screwdriver about as wide as the post on it and smacking that is a convenient means.

[Droombolus]

I usually use a piece of round-wood the size of the post and a light hammer. When you can get them out easily it pays to glue the suckers in ....... will save you a lot of tantrums .... 

[dadagoboi]

Putting the glue in the hole rather than on the stud anchor makes it less likely it will be squeezed out onto the top of the bass.  So  more glue in the hole and less clean up.  SOP for dowel installation.

I usually use a piece of round-wood the size of the post and a light hammer. When you can get them out easily it pays to glue the suckers in ....... will save you a lot of tantrums .... 

+1

[drbassman]

Some of the folks in the restoration forum use CA glue on these, but that's a lot more permanent than Titebond.

[uwe]

[TBird1958]

 Well I know I don't want a bright torch in my F Hole 

[uwe]

Now that's what I call an enlightened statement. Know thy enemas.

[TBird1958]

 I'm always careful in enema territory 

[Psycho Bass Guy]

While you're at it I'd replace the pots with decent CTS pots.

If you do that, you'll have to ream the hole a bit. The cheap pots Epi uses have slightly smaller posts than CTS pots. Just use a drill bit in a drill set in reverse to keep from chipping the finish.

[Highlander]

In the hole...? Tite-bond...? Enema...? Ream the hole...?

Just what kind of place is this...

[dadagoboi]

In the hole...? Tite-bond...? Enema...? Ream the hole...?

Just what kind of place is this...

Middle School?

[Aussie Mark]

In the hole...? Tite-bond...? Enema...? Ream the hole...?

Just what kind of place is this...

Sounds a lot like the script for "Are You Being Served" or the Benny Hill Show