Jacked up

PhilT · September 13, 2011, 03:18:55 PM

Am I right in thinking an Epi JC bridge really shouldn't be, or shouldn't need to be, jacked up at the back like this?

godofthunder · September 13, 2011, 03:33:09 PM

Common problem, looks like the studs are pulling out. Some epoxy and you should be A-OK. I like West Systems marine epoxy but it's pricey. Hardware stuff will do.

Pilgrim · September 13, 2011, 07:55:05 PM

I just pull the post, paint the inside of the hole with super glue, then re-insert the post with a tap to set it fully in place.

drbassman · September 13, 2011, 08:10:52 PM

Every Epi bass with a 3-pointer should come with a tube of epoxy or CA.

Dave W · September 13, 2011, 09:59:13 PM

He's not asking about the studs, is he? I took the question to mean he's concerned about the overall height.

Pilgrim · September 13, 2011, 10:10:56 PM

Quote from: Dave W on September 13, 2011, 09:59:13 PM
He's not asking about the studs, is he? I took the question to mean he's concerned about the overall height.

I think you're right - I got sidetracked.

I agree, as far as I know it should not be necessary to run that bridge that high. I have been told that it's also important to keep those 3-point bridges relatively level, or they turn into levers that tend to pull the post mounts out of the body.

I've never had too much trouble with those bridges, but Hipshot does make a very attractive replacement.

Basvarken · September 14, 2011, 02:07:38 AM

It certainly looks way too high.
Mine is about about half as high.

exiledarchangel · September 14, 2011, 03:01:02 AM

Nice shot Rob!

godofthunder · September 14, 2011, 05:39:39 AM

I agree the bridge does look to be set to high, Gibson seems to do that on all it's new basses with the three point. Also I agree with Bill's suggestion of using CA, it's fine for this application. Me I use the West Systems because that's what I have on hand.

PhilT · September 14, 2011, 06:00:20 AM

I got it used. Accompanied by the dreaded words "professional setup", which I'm learning to translate as "borderline unplayable". The seller said the action was set low by the tech and, as it buzzed, he wound up the bridge to compensate. I don't think the studs are pulling out, though that's something of a miracle.

I've taken it down more like Rob's (yes, I wish I could do pictures that good), with some help from the suggestions on the Jack Casady site. It didn't look like the neck was back bowed, but the strings buzzed terribly with the bridge set right, so I eased off the trussrod a bit (ok, a lot) and it's better and the neck still looks straight. E string feels floppy though. They're flats with red silks and a fairly rough surface so I thought they were Rotos, but the tension feels like TIs.

This was an impulse buy based on a few Youtube videos, and it goes with my all black policy. Not sure I like the yellow pickguard against the black, and the gold knobs. Any thoughts on the JC generally, what's the best way to get on with them?

godofthunder · September 14, 2011, 10:03:20 AM

If the bridge is that high it suggests the neck has some back bow. I had a JC and thought it was a great bass for the money, wish I hadn't sold it.

uwe · September 14, 2011, 11:11:15 AM

Quote from: PhilT on September 13, 2011, 03:18:55 PM
Am I right in thinking an Epi JC bridge really shouldn't be, or shouldn't need to be, jacked up at the back like this?

I think you're wrong in your thinking for once, Phil.

Why? Because there is one structural improvement of the JC Sig over the LP Sig: Its neck is set higher. The neck on a Gibbie LP Sig is actually set too low, so the three point has to be snugly against the body for sensible action (and you still need to file the slots deeper). With the Epi, you have way more range as the neck sits higher and that picture shows it. A Gibson with that set up would be unplayable unless you are Lee Sklar (who sets up all his basses to doublebass standard because he can't play basses with lower action), but for an Epi it's about the same stud height I have on mine, i.e. medium as I want all the notes buzz-free, but have a comparatively light touch.

Pilgrim · September 14, 2011, 11:24:56 AM

My Casady has Labella Deep Talkin' flats (light gauge) on it and I've found them to be quite complementary to the bass. If I get a chance tonight I'll add a bridge shot, but can't before then.

PhilT · September 14, 2011, 03:58:02 PM

Quote from: uwe on September 14, 2011, 11:11:15 AM
I think you're wrong in your thinking for once, Phil. Why? Because there is one structural improvement of the JC Sig over the LP Sig: Its neck is set higher. The neck on a Gibbie LP Sig is actually set too low, so the three point has to be snugly against the body for sensible action (and you still need to file the slots deeper). With the Epi, you have way more range as the neck sits higher and that picture shows it. A Gibson with that set up would be unplayable unless you are Lee Sklar (who sets up all his basses to doublebass standard because he can't play basses with lower action), but for an Epi it's about the same stud height I have on mine, i.e. medium as I want all the notes buzz-free, but have a comparatively light touch.

I'm sure your argument is flawless technically. Aesthetically, it looks awful. And it's settling in nicely now at it's more modest setting and buzzes hardly at all.

Did they hijack the neck from the long-scale EB3?

Pilgrim · September 14, 2011, 06:59:20 PM

OK, some bridge shots. Because the body is arched/angled under the bridge, the bridge is level relative to the path of the strings. This may be a factor in the original photos - what appears to be a jacked-up bridge may not be...it may just take that much adjustment.

Front of bridge:

Side view:

End view:

I don't claim that this bridge is the best adjusted specimen in the world, but the setup works for me and is pleasant to play. The posts have never pulled loose on this one.