Siamese JAEbirds

Started by dadagoboi, January 13, 2011, 02:14:47 PM

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Aussie Mark

Wow, that's nice to know, thanks Carlo.  Good chance then it will fit in one of the cases I have sitting around here.  I didn't realise it was that much shorter than a standard Thunderbird - nice to know!
Cheers
Mark
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Barklessdog

Really nice work. I really like the single pickup version.

dadagoboi

Thanks,  I really dig working with honduras.  That's just a dummy p/g, it has two pups.  But I am doing a single pup JAEbird II.

Spent the whole day prepping bodies.  If the weather holds sealer tomorrow.

dadagoboi


Weather cooperated fully today, 750F with 40% humidity so I was able to get more done than I thought I would


Both bodies prepped


Modified paintin' stand.  These have already been sealed


close up, last look at the mahogany, this one is for Kevin


obligatory hair shot for any lurking TBers.  First 2 double coats of probably six.  Next up is Mark and Dan Vo's Fiesta Reds.  Supposed to rain tomorrow.


The Hatchery.  Blank in front is figured African Mahogany.  I really don't know how it got there but I'll find a home for it..the blank will also fit an RNR so that's a possibility for my spare time.

godofthunder

Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird

Lightyear

So no grain filler?  It's been a long day I mighta missed something.... :-[

dadagoboi

Quote from: Lightyear on January 20, 2011, 08:22:56 PM
So no grain filler?  It's been a long day I mighta missed something.... :-[

Real mahogany doesn't need it IMO.  The grain, especially end grain, is much tighter than the modern substitutes.  This is my '60 that I refinished circa 1973 with a preval sprayer.  Took it down to raw wood and shot with clear lacquer, no stain.  The small rectangle of cherry finish I left over the serial number has faded as the new finish has darkened and now they match.


I did buy a quart of grain filler but decided to go with what's worked for me in the past.  I refinned a mahogany 18th century dining table and built a bedroom suite in the 80s.  Didn't use filler on them either. 

godofthunder

No filler on this baby either.
Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird

dadagoboi

Just went out to the shop and gave the body a few swipes with some 400 no fil.  Looks pretty good, I think all the grain is filled enough so that when I block it it will be fine.

That's a beautiful piece of wood on that 'bird, Scott!  Who made the neck?

godofthunder

#24
That bass has had a number of necks over the years. The one on it now (pictured) is a Warmoth. Rosewood board, figured maple neck. On stage in the lights the grain on the neck distracts me lol. By and large I like the neck  but it does have Warmoths rails in there, makes for a heavy and stiff feeling neck. One thing I really like is the extended fingerboard. It is a nice piece of work though, sure beats the neck I had on it, a Mid 70's Jazz with the classic S curve in the neck. I like All Parts better.
Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird

dadagoboi

The square end of the board is a good look for a 'bird.  Warmoth does do nice work, just a too heavy for me with no real reason IMO.  They should be using carbon rods for the prices they charge.

Allparts raised the prices on their necks today, I just checked their website.  The US dollar has taken a pounding from the yen so I guess their prices have risen.

godofthunder

Yeah I liked the square end also ! Bummer about the price hike but I guess that's to be expected.
Maker of the Badbird Bridge, "intonation without modification" for your vintage Gibson Thunderbird

Highlander

I guess we could coin a fin expression here...

"Does it pass the CARLO test...?" ;)
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Lightyear

Quote from: dadagoboi on January 21, 2011, 04:13:52 AM
Real mahogany doesn't need it IMO.  The grain, especially end grain, is much tighter than the modern substitutes.  This is my '60 that I refinished circa 1973 with a preval sprayer.  Took it down to raw wood and shot with clear lacquer, no stain.  The small rectangle of cherry finish I left over the serial number has faded as the new finish has darkened and now they match.


I did buy a quart of grain filler but decided to go with what's worked for me in the past.  I refinned a mahogany 18th century dining table and built a bedroom suite in the 80s.  Didn't use filler on them either. 

What kind of sealer did you shoot?  High enough solids and you're good to go.  Whatever it was it can't be what Gibson been using lately as the grain on a lot of their stuff telegraphs clearly through the finish :sad:

dadagoboi


Quote from: Lightyear on January 21, 2011, 07:00:08 PM
What kind of sealer did you shoot?  High enough solids and you're good to go.  Whatever it was it can't be what Gibson been using lately as the grain on a lot of their stuff telegraphs clearly through the finish :sad:
On my EBO, none.  On the JAEbirds, Mohawk high solids sanding sealer cut 50% with lac thinner.  about 8 oz per body.

Gotta get on my soapbox again.  Genuine mahogany, Swietenia mahagoni, is to African 'mahogany' as white oak is to red.  They are completely different in cell structure- don't try to make a barrel out of red oak, it will leak.  Ditto real Stickley furniture, white oak only.

If you've worked with the various woods sold as mahogany the difference is readily apparent. Swietania works the same in both grain directions and is a joy to machine,with both hand tools and power.  No nasty, 'Philippine Mahogany' (luan) splinters or porous endgrain.  Prepped correctly, sealer and top coats are all you need.

As far as I know Gibson does NOT use Swietenia mahagoni, except possibly on it's CS stuff  Hasn't for decades, someone correct me if I'm wrong.  I'm currently paying upwards of $11 b.f. for rough 8/4.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swietenia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philippine_mahogany