Dano Incoming!

Pilgrim · July 17, 2010, 06:50:29 AM

I dropped the shim in yesterday and it does help. The bridge on these is interesting - there's one screw in each corner on the end toward the neck, and each screw raises and lowers that side of the bridge up or down. It's an easy, quick adjustment.

Rhythm N. Bliss · July 19, 2010, 02:57:58 PM

Congrats Pilgrim & jumbod!!

leftybass · July 20, 2010, 09:25:12 AM

Quote from: Pilgrim on July 17, 2010, 06:50:29 AM
I dropped the shim in yesterday and it does help. The bridge on these is interesting - there's one screw in each corner on the end toward the neck, and each screw raises and lowers that side of the bridge up or down. It's an easy, quick adjustment.

It's important that you adjust the bridge correctly, if not, damage can be done to the bridge plate.
Here's my Danos,etc.

Highlander · July 20, 2010, 12:24:16 PM

No lefty's, Ronn...

leftybass · July 20, 2010, 12:56:41 PM

Nope, I started on an upside-down righty so it's never been a problem.

patman · July 21, 2010, 10:34:15 AM

Ronn

What is the correct way to adjust the bridge? I have always set the two middle strings just a hair higher than the outside strings to account for the fingerboard radius, then used the two large screws going directly into the wood for the height adjustment. I leave the back anchor screw driven into the bass, leaving maybe the width of a Fender medium between the bridge and the body of the bass? Didn't know there was a right way to do it...

Thanks

Patman

Pilgrim · July 21, 2010, 10:48:45 AM

I'm also wondering! To raise and lower the bridge, all I did was slack the strings a bit, then carefully turn the height adjustment screws.

Correct procedure info for this Dano-newbie is appreciated!!!!

leftybass · July 21, 2010, 11:32:07 AM

Sounds like you guys have it about right. The important thing is to keep the bridge plate close to parallel with the bass' top. This will prevent/postpone bridge plate bending. The plate only has support at each end, and a slot in the middle which makes for a built-in weak spot. The "normal" thing to do when adjusting the bridge is to lower the rear end and raise the front to increase the "break-over" of the strings at the bridge. The problem here is that it puts extra downward pressure on the middle of the bridge plate.
Adjust all 3 screws so the bottom of the bridge plate is about 1/16" from the bass' top, then adjust the front 2 screws for desired action.

Pilgrim · July 22, 2010, 09:34:24 AM

Ah! Thanks kindly!

Denis · July 23, 2010, 01:37:24 PM

Quote from: Pilgrim on July 06, 2010, 10:39:34 PM
I don't really need this, but I could NOT resist!!!!! I play in a surf band, after all!!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300442058644&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Danelectro '63' Reissue Longscale Bass in Seafoam Green

Congrats! I have the same in the red/black burst combination.

Pilgrim · July 23, 2010, 06:29:26 PM

Quote from: Denis on July 23, 2010, 01:37:24 PM

Congrats! I have the same in the red/black burst combination.

So - what's your assessment?? I'm impressed so far, although to my ear I need to run the tone control down 1/3 to 1/2 or it's too twangy. I may revise that opinion after band practice.

Denis · July 24, 2010, 09:12:37 AM

Quote from: Pilgrim on July 23, 2010, 06:29:26 PM
So - what's your assessment?? I'm impressed so far, although to my ear I need to run the tone control down 1/3 to 1/2 or it's too twangy. I may revise that opinion after band practice.

I like mine a lot! It can produce a pretty crazy range of tones, from deep and rich to incredibly twangy. Try switching to only the bridge pickup and turning the tone down most of the way. It gets really angry sounding!

By the way, I've seen an assortment of new lipstick pickups on feeBay, and a lot of the ones I saw were in metal tubes (the one's on ours are plastic) and was wondering what they sound like.

Here's mine.