Epiphone EB-1 resto-modding.

[Alanko]

Thanks again for the kind words! 

The neck is now beginning its four-day curing phase.

I ran into a couple of issues early on which I think I have a remedy for, but definitely getting filed in the 'I will do this differently next time' bin.

I was surprised by how quickly the amber colour started ramping up on the neck. The colour was just in the Rustins (a blend of 'pine' and 'light teak' dye). I had one run, which was resulted in a darker patch on the neck. I sanded this out, but very quickly went through the amber, which then gave me a lighter patch instead.  The takeaway from this, I'm getting, is:

1) Make sure any coloured coats go on perfectly and check any known offending areas for runs, etc.

2) Build up layers of untinted clear to seal in the colour coats.

My thinking here is down to the fact that I wanted to hit my magical nine coat target, but by that time the neck would be dark orange. I started applying uncoloured Rustins for the last three coats, which went on heavier as a result as the dye thins the stuff out. This should give me a good base to wet sand back to a level finish, like the body.


I'm trying to figure out how to wet sand a curved surface without introducing flat spots. I know the answer is 'apply good quality coats that need the minimum of aftercare', but this isn't the case with Rustins! It rolls on thick and gives you enough raw material to finesse later. A lot of people are now using ultra-thin oil finishes on maple necks, so advice now seems to be weighted towards this style of work. I will figure something out!

[amptech]

That guitar repair book (Dan Erlewine) has a good chapter on finishing, addressing issues you mention.
It's fairly easy to tint wood, but when you sand through multiple coats on top of that, it can be impossible to 'repair' it right.

I used this book when I learnt how to shoot paint, like a handbook. Not everybody likes his style, but the book is a good collection of tips from people who knows their trade. Adding some methods at least helped me to enjoy finishing and make it less stressful. I still makes lot of mistakes, though

[Alanko]

Thank you for reminding me that i own that book. I was trying to figure out where my copy  had gone....



Part of my makeshift working-from-home rig.

It is interesting that Dan suggests you dye the maple rather than apply tinted lacquer, as aged maple really is just the lacquer discolouring. I imagine if you found a '51 Strat and started sanding the lacquer off the maple underneath would still be white?

Burying colour coats in clear seems to be the way to go.

[Alanko]

It is done!



I'm 100% happy with the body and maybe 80% happy with the neck.

[Basvarken]

Congrats. The body looks good. The neck looks a bit pale maybe? Is that what you mean?

[Granny Gremlin]

What, no fake F hole?  ;P  Good job; she looks great.

[gearHed289]

Looks like a fun little bass! Body looks great.

[OldManC]

Wow, you really transformed it! I see what you mean about the neck, but I still think the whole thing looks really nice. If it sounds as good as it looks, you're golden!

[Rob]

What George said.  Nice work!

[amptech]

Nice, anyway you look at it - it's an improvement!

[Dave W]

That looks great, including the neck.

[Alanko]

Congrats. The body looks good. The neck looks a bit pale maybe? Is that what you mean?

The neck is a little too dark and too orange for my tastes. I didn't want to to match the body as I figured it couldn't be done. I was going for a sort of Norlin-era bolt-on Gibson look of a brown body and warm maple neck.

The other issues were around buffing out the lacquer on it. The heat of the buffing wheel sort of cooked out the red pigment in one or two places and I burned straight through one corner of the headstock back to bare wood.

The lacquer itself is quite grippy feeling, so I've knocked the gloss off with 0000 steel wool.

[Grog]

Looks great! It does remind me of my first Les Paul Recording. It was a 1975 with a maple neck.

[Basvarken]

I didn't want to to match the body as I figured it couldn't be done.

I don't think that would have been too hard. You can stain just about any colour you wish.
I use Clou waterbased stain. It is sold as a powder in a sachet that you dissolve in warm water.


Here's an example of a maple top that I stained with a dark oak 165. (Which is a lighter colour than dark mahogany 170)





Having said that, I think the neck on your bass looks just fine. 

[BTL]

That bass just looks like fun, congrats!