Author Topic: Dead spot eliminator?  (Read 1512 times)

Dave W

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Dead spot eliminator?
« on: December 07, 2011, 06:43:49 PM »

OldManC

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Re: Dead spot eliminator?
« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2011, 08:15:41 PM »


Quote from: StewMac
We used our aluminum sanding beam to transfer the heat and loosen the glue. The 7-1/4"-radius matched the fingerboard perfectly. Our seam separation knife made this job much easier - until we came across the block.

I love this. It goes right along with them sticking that blob of lead in there in the first place. The justification for leaving in the frets while removing the board made perfect sense as well (they transfer the heat evenly and protect the fretboard from scorching). Home made solutions for hand made instruments. :)

rahock

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Re: Dead spot eliminator?
« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2011, 10:30:47 AM »
Interesting. In the mid or late 70s I really had the hots for a Rickenbacker but when I went to a local shop that had several on the rack, I couldn't find a single one that didn't have several dead spots. I probably played ten basses and the dead spots were all over the place and most of them were very profound too. You can pick up just about any brand of bass and find some spot that has less sustain but it's not a big deal, but the Rics had some seriously " dead as gets" spots. I ended up buying a used one a few months later because the price was right and it wasn't so full of dead spots. Still , after a couple of trips to the local tech it still had some spots that bugged the hell out of me, so I sold it.  Turned me off to Rickenbacker in a big way >:(. I have played several  newer ones that were fine, but there was definately an era where they had some issues.
Rick

Pilgrim

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Re: Dead spot eliminator?
« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2011, 02:22:02 PM »
Judging by Rick prices, that was at least a $500 piece of lead.
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Dave W

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Re: Dead spot eliminator?
« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2011, 10:37:19 PM »
If they tried that today, OSHA would have a conniption fit.

eb2

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Re: Dead spot eliminator?
« Reply #5 on: December 09, 2011, 02:17:35 PM »
I don't know.  I think OSHA, the EPA, and whatever bunch makes them put skulls on the back of Lysol jugs would have had fits if Rick let it be known they were putting blobs of lead in the bass neck.  Or heating it up in the factory to begin with.  Lead is great for shooting through deer hearts, EB-0 necks, and old Detroit valve seats, but bad for just about everything else.

I had an early 70s Rick 4001 and it was dead in general, especially in the middle of the neck on the D string.  Octaves up didn't ring out.  I played plenty that weren't dead though.
Model One and Schallers?  Ish.

Dave W

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Re: Dead spot eliminator?
« Reply #6 on: December 09, 2011, 10:11:12 PM »
You're probably right, OSHA has been around for 40 years now. Here's a classic from the early 70s.


SGD Lutherie

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Re: Dead spot eliminator?
« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2011, 06:48:04 AM »
Judging by Rick prices, that was at least a $500 piece of lead.

Not back then! My '73 4001 wasn't more than $300 new. I have 2 '73 4001s and neither has dead spots, and both worked well with Rotosounds. I also knew how to adjust the neck, since it was on a an instruction sheet that came with the bass. You have to bend the neck over your leg as you tighten the rods.

Rickenbacker needs to put some graphite in the neck between the truss rods. That will eliminate any dead spots they may have, and allow the necks to be thinner again. I mentioned this in the forum once, but Mr. Hall seems to think there is a patent on graphite reinforcement, which there isn't.

Some of the necks on the newer 4003s I played are like baseball bats.

SGD Lutherie

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Re: Dead spot eliminator?
« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2011, 06:52:55 AM »
...makes them put skulls on the back of Lysol jugs...

What would they say about this? 

"...douche regularly with Lysol!"  :o


gearHed289

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Re: Dead spot eliminator?
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2011, 10:22:17 AM »
Not back then! My '73 4001 wasn't more than $300 new. I have 2 '73 4001s and neither has dead spots, and both worked well with Rotosounds. I also knew how to adjust the neck, since it was on a an instruction sheet that came with the bass. You have to bend the neck over your leg as you tighten the rods.

Rickenbacker needs to put some graphite in the neck between the truss rods. That will eliminate any dead spots they may have, and allow the necks to be thinner again. I mentioned this in the forum once, but Mr. Hall seems to think there is a patent on graphite reinforcement, which there isn't.

Some of the necks on the newer 4003s I played are like baseball bats.

Ricks are still a bargain considering what you get, and I'll leave it at that.  ;D

The necks got skinny again about a year and a half ago. New 2 piece design. '97 through '08 tend to be chunky. I wouldn't buy one without playing it first. I've got a '89, a '92, and a '93, and they're all awesome neck profiles.