Hi-Flyer Project!

[drbassman]

Oh yeah, golddddddddddddddddddd!!!

[Pilgrim]

I'm putting together a ReRanch order for next month (been an expensive month...)

Here's what I'm thinking:

- 1 small can oil-based grain filler
- 2 spray cans of Gold Top to do the entire body
- 2 cans nitro lacquer for finishing coats

The ReRanch site recommends a white undercoat, but says that B.I.N.s white pigmented varnish or Kilz sealers available in spray cans are OK to use, so I'll get those locally.  It also recommends alternating lacquer and grain filler under the white - so I think I'll need at least two cans of the clear.  See application directions here: http://www.reranch.com/goldtop.htm

Am I missing anything?

[drbassman]

I'm putting together a ReRanch order for next month (been an expensive month...)

Here's what I'm thinking:

- 1 small can oil-based grain filler
- 2 spray cans of Gold Top to do the entire body
- 2 cans nitro lacquer for finishing coats

The ReRanch site recommends a white undercoat, but says that B.I.N.s white pigmented varnish or Kilz sealers available in spray cans are OK to use, so I'll get those locally.  It also recommends alternating lacquer and grain filler under the white - so I think I'll need at least two cans of the clear.  See; http://www.reranch.com/goldtop.htm

Am I missing anything?

Looks good Al.  Mahogany always needs filling.  Plan on 2-3 steps to be sure.  I just spray a light coat of sand & sealer first, then do my grain fills, one on top of the other.  Or, just skip the S&S and go right to grain filling.  You really don't have to spray between grain fills., but everyone has a favorite method for this step!

[Pilgrim]

So you put down a sealing coat first, then do multiple grain fills as needed - without sealing in between each.  That sounds easy enough.  The ReRanch site recommends using the clear nitro as an initial sealer coat and letting it soak in overnight...seems like the same concept.

[drbassman]

Yep, Reranch has a good system, it's how I learned it. 

[Bass VI]

 "The ReRanch site recommends using the clear nitro as an initial sealer coat and letting it soak in overnight...seems like the same concept."

Using the sealer coat before filling will prevent the filler from staining the wood, not really an issue if you're doing an opaque top coat. Be sure to seal the filler before your primer and color coats.

Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out!

Cheers,

S.

[drbassman]

"The ReRanch site recommends using the clear nitro as an initial sealer coat and letting it soak in overnight...seems like the same concept."

Using the sealer coat before filling will prevent the filler from staining the wood, not really an issue if you're doing an opaque top coat. Be sure to seal the filler before your primer and color coats.

Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out!

Cheers,

S.

A light sealer coat before filling also helps fill the pores deep down initially.  I also do a S&S coat or two before applying color or rans coats.

[drbassman]

Hey Al, check these out!  I found them on the Mosrite forum and thought of you.  This was a custom bass made by Mosrite..............

[Pilgrim]

That's beautiful!  Looks like they used Fender-style tuners and offset them a bit to provide room.  Also looks like a single PU unless they hid one under the bridge cover - but I don't think it would fit, and the placement wouldn't match any of their other basses in that style.

[drbassman]

Yep, it's a beauty.  I doubt the tuners are original, they're probably a replacement for the old duck feet tuners.  A lot of people didn't like those, but now they are collector's items!!!  I love the one pup Mosrites, I think they look really sleek and clean. 

[Blazer]

Yeah they look great but with their guitar 25.5 scale length and only that neck pickup, they sound really rubbery and farty.

[Dave W]

But they don't have a 25.5" scale length. The whole point of Bill's successful protest over the one Andy Moseley sold him was that it wasn't an actual production model. It was something he put together from his "vintage" used parts bin.

Real Mosrite basses were 30" scale. So were real Univox Ho-Flyer basses.

[drbassman]

But they don't have a 25.5" scale length. The whole point of Bill's successful protest over the one Andy Moseley sold him was that it wasn't an actual production model. It was something he put together from his "vintage" used parts bin.

Real Mosrite basses were 30" scale. So were real Univox Ho-Flyer basses.

Dave's correct!