Thoughts on 3-point bridge improvement

[exiledarchangel]

We all know how hard is to adjust the damn thing, especially if you are a newbie on the gibson way of doing things. You can tilt the 2 big screws to get action to something acceptable, you can even do weird things like changing the order of saddles and tilting more the bridge (that helped me alittle bit) if you are desperate. But if you want REALLY low action, you must start filing the saddles. That could work if you adjust em for a type/thickness of strings, but if you start trying other strings, there could be fretbuzzynes again. Not cool. At all.

The following are my thoughts on solving this problem, my drawings are kinda crude, so feel free to ask if you don't get something. These are the measurements I took on a saddle, everything is on mm.



First thing I thought was cutting the upper part of the saddle and putting height adjusting screws between the upper and the lower part. I like that approach much at start, but then I thought that there's nothing except string pressure that holds that little upper piece where it suppose to be. In other words, break a string, lose the damn thing. Neeext!



Then I thought of stealing Leo, that is putting height adjusting screws thru the complete length of the saddle. I'm not so sure about that, because it removes alot of metal and creates weak points. Maybe with the use of good quality metal this wouldn't be a problem, but I'm not an engineer, so I can't tell for sure.



And then I thought about taking advantage of something else. Why not putting the height adjustm,ent screws to the "sides" of the saddles? This one seems more stable than no2, and also we can make the "sides" of the saddles just a little wider (0.5mm or maybe 1mm per side, I checked it, theres some room) to add some material there for strength. Check what I mean.



I am aware that the last 2 ideas maybe interfere with the angle of the intonation screw, especially if we start adjusting the saddle more to the back of the bridge (away from pickups). If we use a thinner intonation screw (Epiphone uses a 4mm one) that could be less of a problem.

Any thoughts?

[Basvarken]

I think this is the best option. Except you need the screws to go through the upper piece itself.

I tend to think the others won't work as good.
Simply because the other two would interfere with the way the screw is mounted in the bridge itself. When you raise the saddle the screw will be lifted out of the slot.

[exiledarchangel]

Like this you mean.



Yea, that could work, the more I think about it, the more I tend to like #1 again. I know its doable, a friend of mine had done something similar for the bridge of his Sheraton, tuneomatic and 3-point bridge saddles work on the same principles. Sadly I have lost his traces thru, so I can't find him to ask for some info. The only think I remember is he machined the whole thing out of phosphor bronze or something and the saddles he made were height-adjustable, fender-style.

[Basvarken]

Yep, that's what I meant.

[dadagoboi]

Like this you mean.



Yea, that could work, the more I think about it, the more I tend to like #1 again. I know its doable, a friend of mine had done something similar for the bridge of his Sheraton, tuneomatic and 3-point bridge saddles work on the same principles. Sadly I have lost his traces thru, so I can't find him to ask for some info. The only think I remember is he machined the whole thing out of phosphor bronze or something and the saddles he made were height-adjustable, fender-style.

That won't work as modified.  No way to install a second screw after (awkwardly) screwing in the first one.  Your initial concept would work, just don't break a string

[Basvarken]

if the screw has no thread on the upper part it would work. see attached pic

[dadagoboi]

if the screw has no thread on the upper part it would work. see attached pic

I saw the original no top thread concept.  I was commenting on the attempted modification which shows threads on top and bottom.

Like this you mean.

[exiledarchangel]

Just found out about a tuneomatic bridge made by Gotoh with adjustable height saddles, the Gotoh 510BN. Its intonation screw sits on oval holes, to be able to be height-adjusted.
If we combine this technique with a thinner intonation screw for some extra clearance (Gibson/Epi uses 4mm screw, Fender uses 3mm for comparison) then I think 2# and 3# options are viable.

See this Gotoh thingie here http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=52887&p=778517

[dadagoboi]

Just found out about a tuneomatic bridge made by Gotoh with adjustable height saddles, the Gotoh 510BN. Its intonation screw sits on oval holes, to be able to be height-adjusted.
If we combine this technique with a thinner intonation screw for some extra clearance (Gibson/Epi uses 4mm screw, Fender uses 3mm for comparison) then I think 2# and 3# options are viable.

See this Gotoh thingie here http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=52887&p=778517

Something like that might work but it would be easier and cheaper to slot the saddles to the depth you need.

I got rid of the 3 point on my '77 TBird only because I couldn't intonate the E string without having string wrap on the saddle.  I bought a set of saddles to file before I realized getting the string height lower was not going to fix the improperly located bridge.  You would think they'd have finally figured that out by then.  Note how far past the posts I put my Nevertilt compared to where Gibson located the 3 point.

[exiledarchangel]

You would think they'd have finally figured that out by then.

Hey, it's Gibson, more stubborrn than a pack of mules!