Super glue smear on Casady neck

[Pilgrim]

Last night I took a run at repairing the cracks between fretboard and neck on my new Jack Casady bass.  I slacked the strings, then had my wife help me.  The way to get the cracks open a hair was to hold the body of the bass and twist the headstock at the same time, which fully occupied one person.  I took a very small syringe and loaded it with fresh super glue, and injected glue into the cracks one at a time while she twisted, then clamped the neck for a couple of hours.  It appears that the neck is now solid and at least adequately glued...so the big operation was a success.

But this is a good news-bad news post.

What remains is clean-up, because we got enough super glue into the G string side of the neck that it ran out and onto the neck - and I dabbed at it with a tissue, which in retrospect was probably NOT the best tool...as it left bits of tissue stuck to the glue.

So now the question is how to get the glue off.

I could try the obvious and use nail polish remover or acetone, but given the lovely finish on the neck I'm not eager to try that unless someone here can assure me that the finish on the Casady isn't subject to attack by acetone.  I thought about trying to find an inconspicuous spot on the bass to try touching it with acetone, but I can't find such a spot.

At the far end of options from acetone, it occurs to me that I could use something like fine steel wool or 2000-grit wet & dry sandpaper very judiciously, then polish with 3-M Finesse-It II machine polish.

Any suggestions? A photo is below - don't shudder.

[drbassman]

I believe the Casady has a poly finish, so a light dab with acetone may not hurt it.  First, take off the truss rod cover and dab some acetone on the finish where no one will see it.  You'll find out that way if it will wreck the finish or not.

[drbassman]

One other thought.  For a neck repair, I think regular Tite Bond in there would have been a good choice too with much easier clean up.

As for the fret board, I'd just try the acetone on it as well or lightly sand it.

I've been moving away from CA glue in recent projects because it is so unforgiving.

[Lightyear]

I would consider a brand new single edge razor blade used scraper style - at about a 90 degree angle to the surface.  You might be able to lightly scrape the glue off of the poly.  You could dress the area with some 1200 grit, wet, if needed, then the run through the Finesse It process.  Just a thought

[TBird1958]

Having used CA extensively in modeling projects over the years I'd echo the comment about using it here - over time it gets brittle, Tite-Bond would have been a better choice. Like Buzz suggests a little scraping, even with your finger nail will remove any larger pieces. Go to your local Automotive paint supply and get some 1500 or 2000 grit wet/dry, use it wet and take it slow and easy.

[Pilgrim]

All good thoughts.  High marks to Dr. Bassman, who ID'd the one unseen spot where I might try nail polish remover!  I've been doing some research online and soaking the surface with a paper towel with warm, soapy water helped a bit.

I think I'll check the finish under the truss rod cover as Bill suggests, then default to wet/dry paper if needed.  

Titebond might have been a better idea, but it sure would have been a challenge to get it into those tiny cracks...that's probably why it didn't occur to me.

[Lightyear]

I've thinned yellow carpenter glue many times and injected it.  Though most of the time I used cheap plastic pipettes (sp) to do my dirty work   They are not quite as small as a syringe but are fairly small and cheap - I dilute the glue maybe 30% at most - about like regualr cream.  Or in paint context about a drop falling off of your stir stick every 1.5 to 2 seconds.

The thought of acetone, even on a catalyzed poly finish, give me the heebeegeebees

Good luck!

[Pilgrim]

Good news!

I removed the truss rod cover and swabbed the side of the cavity with a Q-tip dipped in nail polish remover for a minute or more - no finish softening, no color came off, no nuttin'.

So I went after the smeared super glue with an old T-shirt and nail polish remover.  The neck is now clean and no finish damage.  There are a few tiny glue bumps on each side between the fretboard and neck, but I don't feel them while playing.  If i ever get real energetic I night take some 2000-grit wet& dry to them, but I'm happy the way it is.

There IS a case to be made for poly finishes!

[Lightyear]

Great news - that would have been ugly with nitro