The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Rickenbacker Basses => Topic started by: uwe on May 09, 2008, 10:45:28 AM
-
... was the first bass shape that caught my attention (needless to say in my case: as played by Roger Glover and Glenn Hughes of DP) and inspired my awe. Other basses just looked like large guitars, but this thing was different I thought ...
(http://www.thehighwaystar.com/graphics/mk2a/live1973/amsterdam/amsterdam_glover.jpg)
(http://www.deep-purple.net/gallery/totp71/deep-purple-71a.jpg)
(http://www.deep-purple.net/gallery/rainbow73/rainbow73roger.jpg)
(http://www.thehighwaystar.com/graphics/mk2a/whosessions/wdwtwa-glover.jpg)
(http://www.thehighwaystar.com/graphics/mk2a/rglover.jpg)
(http://www.thehighwaystar.com/graphics/mk3/burnsessions/dpa00008.jpg)
(http://www.deep-purple.net/gallery/USA74/us74e.jpg)
(http://www.thehighwaystar.com/graphics/mk3/dpa00012.jpg)
-
My sons Ric, which has a chunky neck surprisingly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/billyric.jpg)
-
Roger Glover and Glenn Hughes were huge influences on me, both musically and Rick-obsession-wise. I had a Japanese Deep Purple picture book while I was in high school, and I would just stare at the pictures of Roger Glover with his 4001, also Glenn Hughes on the back cover of the Made in Europe album. Actually, now that I think of it, my second-ever bass was a Fernandes copy of Paul McCartney's Rickenbacker in its natural finish form:
(http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/8485/paulmccartneybassnotextlh0.jpg)
(This is probably around 1983-4)
It wasn't until 2002 that I found a beautiful Autumnglo 4001 in the window of my local guitar store:
(http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/1719/rickenbackerwindowta9.jpg)
I have a feeling that I will never sell this bass. I've got a few other Rics that I picked up after this one, but this being my first it's special. Plus the finish isn't that common - they came out with Montezuma Brown a few years ago which is similar, but those had white trim - black pickguards are easy enough to acquire, but black truss rod covers are another story.
I'll post more about this bass later - I had some interesting work done to it lately...
-
There's no doubt that the White Album, and this both changed my life:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-6xmcGvJHc&feature=related
...and growing up during the post-punk/new-wave era, I couldn't help but be influenced by stuff like this too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-recskrzunI
Needless to say, I was also obssessed with Rics early on.
I got my 4001 probably around 1988, which would have made me 15-or-so. I grew up in Houston, TX, so I'd kill myself all summer mowing peoples foot-deep grass, and then blow the proceeds on music-related stuff. My dad used to take me to a store called Rockin' Robin. Those guys always had an amazing spread of old gear. On one trip there, I went in the back room, and they were having some kind of blowout sale on used 4001s. There must have been a dozen or so on stands setup in a big V-formation in the middle of the room. I went nuts- played every one of them, and ended up getting the one that felt best to me - a 1978 MapleGlo 4001. It was around $250 w/OHSC. That was a lot of money to me! My dad helped with some of it (thankfully he is Yes fan too :) ).
I may not play it as much as I should, but no matter what - it will never be sold:
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/0chromium0/forums/basses-0607/DSCF0265.jpg)
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/0chromium0/forums/basses-0607/DSCF0267.jpg)
It's currently setup more "Macca" than "Squire" - running a set of Roto Jazz Flats on it. I've never attempted to modify it either. Still has the cap.
-
It's currently setup more "Macca" than "Squire" - running a set of Roto Jazz Flats on it. I've never attempted to modify it either. Still has the cap.
Flats on a Rickenbacker - I've still never tried that.
It's interesting - I was definitely aware that Paul McCartney, Chris Squire and Geddy Lee played Rickenbackers, and they were such huge influences on me, but Roger Glover and Glenn Hughes still stick out to me as being so cool visually.
And $250 for your Mapleglo - I thought I had a bargain at $800 six years ago - prices are absurd now!
-
It was Squire who first made me aware of Ric basses, even tho' I was a Beatles fan as far back as the mid-60s it was the 70s before I noticed McCartney played a Ric, and that hooked me even more. The third Ric player to catch my eye/ear and really solidify the fact that I NEEDED a Ric bass was Bruce Foxton of The Jam. I was just learning to play when Punk broke and my band in the late70s/early 80s, The Stiffs, were totally into The Jam.
So, I own these:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v383/iamthebassman/DSC00182.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v383/iamthebassman/csnew.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v383/iamthebassman/eggricbyardlg.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v383/iamthebassman/eggric4001s.gif)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v383/iamthebassman/nigelwric.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v383/iamthebassman/acl_015.jpg)
-
All your basses are cool, but I love that pic with the Fish Out Of Water vinyl!
-
Yeah Baby Rickenbackers ! The best Ric I ever had was a 4000 that was cleared out in the early '80s. New I think I paid............................ I kid you not $250 dealer cost, I wish I never sold it. Right now I have a C64 Fireglo that I love, Just like Pauls ! Uwe man I remember when Deep Purple came out with Made in Japan. I was playing a Hofner through a Traynor YBA1 and a 1x18 cab................... huh ? Why doesn't my bass sound like that guys (Roger Glover) I don't list him often in my influences but if I stop and think about it I realise just how ground breaking he was. Here is my C64 (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/100_2589.jpg)
-
Uwe you are right Rickenbackers are different ! With out a doubt the most well thought out first generation electric bass. Neck through construction, full access to the upper register, duel truss rods and a amazing ergonomic design, far ahead of our beloved Gibsons or Fenders of the time.
-
i've been itchin' for a Ric for a long time.one of my favorite basses.just a little pricey.
-
OK, here's my only Ric. I do play it once in awhile! It's a 2006 Midnight Blue, beautiful.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/2006%20Ric/100_1137.jpg)
-
Funny, now everyone comes out of the closet with their Rics!
Great basses
-
The first time I saw a Ric bass "in person" was in high school, in a jazz concert, in 1977. I think this was the first and only jazz player I've seen with a Ric bass. I was mesmerized, I thought it was the best looking bass I had ever seen. It was a pre-73 Azureglo, with checkerboard binding, toaster, full-width crushed pearl inlays...
Then I discovered Roger Glover and Chris Squire. The bass sound in Pictures of Home... I think I listened to Machine Head and Yes' Fragile hundreds of times, until I wore out the vinyls.
My first Ric was a 1973 Jetglo 4001. Foolishly I sold it, but later I got a chance to buy a Shadow for $750... and I was in love again. The sound, the looks, these basses play and sound like no other. Soon after I got the Shadow, I bought a white '73 4001. The shadow is my "clank" Ric, with fresh DR Lo Riders, and the white '73 is my "thump" Ric, either with TI Jazz Flats or dead TI Jazz Rounds.
(http://www.fenderforum.com/userphotos/photo.php?id=54638)(http://65.23.158.135/userphotos/photo.php?id=54639)
-
I have 4005WB and a 3000 and I used to own another 3000 and a 3001. I also had a '76 4001 once, but it was a bad sounding bass with a non original bridge. Sold it to buy the 4005, so no regrets.
I want a 4001 or 4003 once, cos they're and beautiful and great sounding. I played a 4003 once and I think it's my ideal bass, along with the T-Bird. But because it's the ideal bass, I won't buy one soon... You have to have dreams!
I love the 4001 of the The View bass player.
-
My sons Ric, which has a chunky neck surprisingly.
Certain years have chunky necks. Which year is your son's Rick?
-
Welcome Bert. It's good to have more Dutch people here!
BTW: The Last Bass Outpost is 100% male... :(
-
Flats on a Rickenbacker - I've still never tried that.
I have Pyramid flats on mine and they sound great! I really liked the sound of the original rounds, they are about the best stock rounds that come on any bass!
-
Welcome Bert. It's good to have more Dutch people here!
BTW: The Last Bass Outpost is 100% male... :(
Thanx Chris. 100 % male? Maybe this will change now. Chicks dig Ricks. ;D
-
Certain years have chunky necks. Which year is your son's Rick?
Whenever I see the valiant, yet futile fight of the twin truss rods of my 4003S/8 string against ever increasing neck bow, I wish they would have mad THAT neck fatter. I had both truss rods exchanged a few years ago and both of them are already again at nearly the end of their range. All you can ever do is tighten them, no matter what the climate they never pull the neck straight enough to necessitate loosening them.
I have yet to experience any advantage of the Ric twin truss rod system, be it old or new. It is in the best of cases as stable as a Gibson or Fender truss rod, but in most cases it is not. That you would need to adjust one truss rod different from the other I have never encountered. On five Rics I own neither the necks are warped enough or the fret job is uneven enough to necessitate individually different adjustment.
-
Whenever I see the valiant, yet futile fight of the twin truss rods of my 4003S/8 string against ever increasing neck bow, I wish they would have mad THAT neck fatter. I had both truss rods exchanged a few years ago and both of them are already again at nearly the end of their range. All you can ever do is tighten them, no matter what the climate they never pull the neck straight enough to necessitate loosening them.
What a Pitty. I suppose you have tried strings with less tension? I recently read of enforcing necks with extra pieces of some carbon whatever material. VoxHumana in the Netherlands (http://www.voxhumana.nl/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=33&Itemid=60) do this. Maybe others too.
Buying an EXH POG made my GASses for an 8string almost go away by the way.
-
i read a very good review of a new small version of the EHX POG. Which one do you have, Bert?
-
i read a very good review of a new small version of the EHX POG. Which one do you have, Bert?
The Big one. :) Simply the best octaver I tried (octave down). Very nice for making an 8 or 12 string out of a 4 string (with the 1 octave up and 2 octave up/detune sliders). And with a little echo behind it I dont need a church organ anymore also. It's a different concept than my previous EBS octabass. The POG just generates an octave down/up/2up signal out of the incoming signal. Even if you slide your plectrum over the strings to make jetplane sounds it works. And it tracks very wel also.
-
Bert,
Sounds nice!
Could you take a look at the microPOG at the completely new EHX page for me and tell me what you think about it?
-
Sounds nice!
Could you take a look at the microPOG at the completely new EHX page for me and tell me what you think about it?
What i've read it tracks even better than the big POG (and the big pog is allready much, much, much better than for instance an EBS octabass). It would be perfect if you just need an octaver. But your options to emulate 8 or 12 strings (or even organs) are a lot less. Especially the detune sliders are necesary (I think) to give an 8/12 string like sound. In real live octave strings aren't 100 % in tune also.
-
Thanks Bert from Zaandam!
-
Whenever I see the valiant, yet futile fight of the twin truss rods of my 4003S/8 string against ever increasing neck bow, I wish they would have mad THAT neck fatter. I had both truss rods exchanged a few years ago and both of them are already again at nearly the end of their range. All you can ever do is tighten them, no matter what the climate they never pull the neck straight enough to necessitate loosening them.
I have yet to experience any advantage of the Ric twin truss rod system, be it old or new. It is in the best of cases as stable as a Gibson or Fender truss rod, but in most cases it is not. That you would need to adjust one truss rod different from the other I have never encountered. On five Rics I own neither the necks are warped enough or the fret job is uneven enough to necessitate individually different adjustment.
The Rick truss rods used since about 1984 operate the same way as a traditional Gibson or Fender rod. Having two of them doesn't really make the neck stronger, it just allows you to counteract string pull separately on each side.
Sounds like your 4003S/8 has a neck that's just not stiff enough and is unstable to boot.
-
Yup, I see the day coming when I'll have the fretboard removed to carbon-reinforce the neck. I also think that my dilemma is the reason why they gave up on the eight string eventually. I'm wondering whether Hieronymous has the same issues with his eight string or whether his beast has found a more zen like tranquility in its neck stability (thanks, no doubt, to comforting words of its owner!). It would have needed a different neck construction to withstand the pull. I have TI Jazz Flats (= extremely low tension) and octave strings that are thinner than what Ric recommends or provides, but eight strings is eight strings ... I've tried other combinations before but find a combo of flatwound bass strings and roundwound octave strings providing the "unmessiest" sound.
Playing it tonight at the rehearsal - it sounds great with a new song we've written and are rehearsing where I play chords on the D and G :rolleyes: while letting the empty A string(s) drone in a syncopated fashion ...
Uwe
-
I have yet to experience any advantage of the Ric twin truss rod system, be it old or new. It is in the best of cases as stable as a Gibson or Fender truss rod, but in most cases it is not. That you would need to adjust one truss rod different from the other I have never encountered. On five Rics I own neither the necks are warped enough or the fret job is uneven enough to necessitate individually different adjustment.
I think that neck stability is more a matter of neck woods and construction, than it is the truss rods.
In difficult cases, John Hall suggested tightening the rods like you would tighten old-style folded rods, i.e., pull the headstock backwards with your hand and then use the rods to "lock" the neck into position.
Did you check the body-end part of the rods? Perhaps the acorn nuts are sinking into the wood?
I have many times in the past adjusted the rods slightly different, most of the times it was when the bass side had a slight curve and the treble side was straight.
Another advantage of the Ric truss rods, old and "new" (post '85), is that you can easily pull them out, fix what needs to be fixed, then insert them back inside the neck. This can be done on your kitchen table, no need for special tools. You can't do that with a Fender or a Gibson.
(http://www.fenderforum.com/userphotos/photo.php?id=36319)
Here's another idea. When you pull the rods out you can see that they are curved. This was done in the factory. Don't attempt to straighten them. In some cases the rods "flip over" inside the channel and the curve is in the wrong direction. I did this with my Shadow: removed the rods, then inserted them back inside making sure the curve was in a back-bow. Until I did that, I had to use TI's because of the low tension. Now I use medium gauge DR's, the neck is dead straight - zero relief - and very stable.
-
Interesting, I never knew that the channels were big enough that there's a possibility of the rods flipping the wrong way.
-
I mean only the "new" round type. They don't flip by themselves, this is helped by adjusting the rods even if you are doing it correctly. If you put a little mark at the end of the rod so that you can see if it's turning inside the channel when you are tightening the nut, you can see how easy it is to turn the rod itself. If it was straight this wouldn't matter, but some rods are curved at the factory, and the rod should be positioned so that the curve works against string pull.
-
I'm wondering whether Hieronymous has the same issues with his eight string or whether his beast has found a more zen like tranquility in its neck stability (thanks, no doubt, to comforting words of its owner!).
I haven't noticed any problems, but my 4003S/8 is resting comfortably on the east coast at a friend's house. I only play it when I go out there, which I will be doing in June. Also, I am having the string courses reversed by our very own bostonguitarrepair - maybe he can have a look and give his professional opinion.
I also have an early '80s 4008 that has a really nice neck. If they have any neck tranquility I think they achieved it long before I came into possession - or should I say guardianship - of them.
Hmm, maybe it's time for an 8-string Rickenbacker thread...
-
I mean only the "new" round type. They don't flip by themselves, this is helped by adjusting the rods even if you are doing it correctly. If you put a little mark at the end of the rod so that you can see if it's turning inside the channel when you are tightening the nut, you can see how easy it is to turn the rod itself. If it was straight this wouldn't matter, but some rods are curved at the factory, and the rod should be positioned so that the curve works against string pull.
I understand what you're saying; because of the replaceability, it has the acorn nuts (instead of an internal anchor like Gibsons have), so it's possible for the rod to turn instead of being shortened when you tighten the headstock nut. But even so, wouldn't the rod cavity have to be big enough to allow it to actually flip?
Maybe I'm just not visualizing it the right way.
-
By flipping I just mean half a turn inside the channel. Then the curve faces the opposite side (fretboard instead of back of the neck). The acorn nuts at the body end have serrated washers but sometimes that's not enough to hold them in place.
When the bent rod is inside the channel, it's straight. That's why it's easy for it to turn.
If you make a small mark at the end of the truss rod, you can see if it turns inside the channel when you tighten the nut. You don't have to remove the rods at all, just check if they turn. I remove the rods from the body just to see if they are bent at all.
Uwe: if the rods in your s8 are straight, maybe you can bend them like in the pic and insert them back inside the channels with the convex side under the fretboard. Do you still have the original rods? Why did you have to replace them?
-
Okay, now I get it.
-
That's interesting - very much so. Also the John Hall tip of "doing it the old way". My 4003s/8 has new original Ric trussrods in it (I had to replace the old ones when one nut broke off), I assume my luthier mounted them right! But I remember his wary words when he returned the bass to me saying that "this bass will give you trouble again in the future, just the way the wood has grown there is too much relief even with zero tension ...". The neck goes straight quick enough when I adjust the truss rods - it's just that about half a year later the same amount of new turns are needed to restraighten it again. And of course you can only tighten a truss rod that many times before the nut will eventually break off as I have had happened before with this bass. I' ll just see how it goes and try your recommendations next time, Ilan, thanks.
The abilityto remove the trussrods from a Ric is a great thing, granted. It gives me the thought whether as an option for the future one of those channels could not be used for a really stiff graphite rod to stiffen the neck and let the adjustment be done by just one Ric truss rod.
Uwe
-
I'd try backwards-bent rods first, it's simple, reversible, actually you can do it yourself.
If this doesn't work, perhaps compression fretting will. This is something you would have to discuss with you luthier. The frets are removed and replaced with fret wire with slightly oversized tangs. This will give the fretboard a back-bow.
Sometimes the wood at the body end compresses, and the acorn nuts sink too much into the hole when the adjustment nuts at the headstock end are tightened. John Hall suggested a few drops of Super Glue to harden the maple under the acorn nuts. This should be done in 3-4 applications, letting each dry before the next application. (Needless to say, remove the truss rods before doing this!)
Your luthier could also try heat treatment to correct the bow. Or a combination of any of these methods.
-
Wow. It's nice to finally understand the mechanics of what is going on inside that neck! I had no idea you could service necks so easily on these.
There is a lot of fear, uncertainty, and doubt out there as it pertains to adjusting Rics. This really helps demystify that process. Thanks, Ilan!!
-
I just had my '76 4001 looked at by a Ric expert in San Francisco - first time I had seen the rods pulled out of the neck like that. At one point, he had me hold the body down while he pushed down on the neck to straighten it!
-
I have a '93 4003S/8 that I've had for a year now with no neck issues. I've actually loosened the truss rods. This thing has the thickest fingerboard I've ever seen, but the overall neck thickness is pretty much the same as my '89 4003S.
And speaking of neck thickness, at some point in the late 90's, Ric got a new CNC router. This is when the neck shapes got weird (thick). They are now back to a slim profile.
Flats on a Ric = very cool! I had a V63 for a while that I strung up with some TI flats. Awesome Wings vibe.
(http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/327/ricfamily2007cn4.jpg)
They are much prettier in real life, especially the Fireglo! That thing's a gem. The black one is my #1, followed closely by my '94 Les Paul Special. The cream one rarely leaves the house. VERY rarely.....
-
Welcome... great looking Rics!
-
Hey Tom, glad you found us.
-
Beautiful basses! And Welcome!
-
Thanks guys. It's been a while - probably since around November - since I've been on any bass message boards. Got busy with my new car ('08 Mustang GT). Got that all tweaked out, so I'm nosing around again.
-
Well, post your car too at the Outpost cafe.
-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47/gcarlston/Basses/4003_angled.jpg)
This was my first 'real' Ric. Nice bass but I wanted the slimmer neck, so this one went to Germany (I think). I won't post a pic of my Greco 4001S copy (I know that gives some guys palpitations in a Ric forum :mrgreen:), but it's pretty nice. I'll tell you Scott, I lust after your C64...
-
Post the copy at 'other bass brands'!
-
You can post it here, as long as it doesn't have a real Ric TRC.
-
Though I have quite a deal of different Gibson basses my '74 Ric 4001 gets played also. It's an immediate design you react to. I also love the guitar looks. I was a guitarplayer when the 381 John Kay model came out and I almost freaked out when I saw it. Here's my Ric:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/doombass/Ric/Ric_hammock.jpg)
-
You can post it here, as long as it doesn't have a real Ric TRC.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47/gcarlston/Basses/70sGreco4001SIII.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47/gcarlston/Basses/70sGreco4001SbodyIV.jpg)
Cool! I would never try to pass a copy off as the real thing. I like it for what is is, but it ISN'T a Ric. Someday I'll have one with the right TRC... And maybe even an upside down headstock!
-
Nice bass! What's on the TRC?
-
Nice
Nice bass! What's on the TRC?
"Grecoguitar"
"S" copies are pretty rare. How does this one sound? Close to a real Ric?
I'm asking because copies don't have padauk boards, and I have this theory that fretboard material has a major part in a guitar's overall sound. Sometimes more than the body wood.
-
I have this theory that fretboard material has a major part in a guitar's overall sound. Sometimes more than the body wood.
At the moment Chris's 4005 is staying at my place (dont tell Chris we are migrating to new zealand next week please). And I'm surprised at the similarities in sounds between my other Ricks (mainly 4001's) and the 4005.
-
Nice
"Grecoguitar"
"S" copies are pretty rare. How does this one sound? Close to a real Ric?
I'm asking because copies don't have padauk boards, and I have this theory that fretboard material has a major part in a guitar's overall sound. Sometimes more than the body wood.
It sounds close, but not exact. Besides the board being different, there's also only one truss rod, which may make a difference as well. I have yet to outfit it with flats, which will be the deciding factor on whether it sounds 'close enough'. Once I do that I'll report on what I find.
-
Sorry about not answering about my son's Ric's bass. I'm not sure what year it is?
It is a 4003 though.
He bought it off of E-bay in near mint condition for $850 about 7 years ago? Now, I bet it is worth $1200.
A lot of people don't understand about the true value of basses. Also that Rics are one of a kind basses. They have both great value as a players instrument and hold their value very well, unlike a lot of Fender clone basses.
-
I think that neck stability is more a matter of neck woods and construction, than it is the truss rods.
In difficult cases, John Hall suggested tightening the rods like you would tighten old-style folded rods, i.e., pull the headstock backwards with your hand and then use the rods to "lock" the neck into position.
Did you check the body-end part of the rods? Perhaps the acorn nuts are sinking into the wood?
I have many times in the past adjusted the rods slightly different, most of the times it was when the bass side had a slight curve and the treble side was straight.
Another advantage of the Ric truss rods, old and "new" (post '85), is that you can easily pull them out, fix what needs to be fixed, then insert them back inside the neck. This can be done on your kitchen table, no need for special tools. You can't do that with a Fender or a Gibson.
(http://www.fenderforum.com/userphotos/photo.php?id=36319)
Here's another idea. When you pull the rods out you can see that they are curved. This was done in the factory. Don't attempt to straighten them. In some cases the rods "flip over" inside the channel and the curve is in the wrong direction. I did this with my Shadow: removed the rods, then inserted them back inside making sure the curve was in a back-bow. Until I did that, I had to use TI's because of the low tension. Now I use medium gauge DR's, the neck is dead straight - zero relief - and very stable.
Ilan, ever since I read this from you, I've been thinking whether this might be the so far elusive solution to the neck problems of my eight string. With all the bad experiences I've had with the neck tension of mine, I doubt it (remember: it already features the second pair of trussrods after the first one gave up), but hope dies last. So today - after the neck was badly concave again after the last set up a few months ago though all the bass did was rest in its stand in the same place, never do I have to loosen tension with this bass' trussrods irrespective of climate, it always demands "tighter, tighter!" until the truss rods break :-\ - I dismantled everything like you did in your picture, but I'm stumped with loosening the acorn nuts that hold the rods at the high end of the neck (towards the neck pup). What kind of tool made in hell will be able to access those holes to get a grip on the acorn nuts? I see a rectangular nut wrench in your pic, what size is that, where did you get it from and does that actually fit into the holes yet get a grip on the acorns?
"No need for special tools" you said! :mrgreen: ???
-
Uwe: in the pic is a '73 4001 with the old style rods. There are no acorn nuts at the body end. Yours OTOH has the newer style rods. Elongated hex nuts at the headstock end, acorn nuts at the body end.
So here's what you do. Remove the adjustment hex nuts from the headstock end of the rods, and then push the rods inside the neck cavities, just enough for the acorn nuts to come out of the body end of the neck. Now it's easy to remove the acorn nuts if you want (but you don't need to, unless you want to pull the rods out of the bass). Next, push the rods back into the neck (from the body end) and pull them completely out through the headstock end, using pliers (protect the headstock with a soft cloth first).
You will see that the rods are curved. You want to insert them back inside with a backward bow, to counteract the string pull.
(http://bassoutpost.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=561.0;attach=182;image)
You don't have to pull the rods out of the neck completely or even remove the acorn nuts. Just push the rods inside the neck from the headstock end (I use a large screwdriver) about an inch, turn 180 degrees at the body end (you can mark the acorn nut with white correction fluid, a small dot on the top, turn inside the channel until the dot is at the bottom) and push back into place. Re-install the hex nuts at the headstock end and adjust.
-
Ah, I see, thanks a lot will try that when I've braced myself to do it. The way the neck on my 4003 is concave even with no string pull, it will take some brute force to get those truss rods out of the channels, they seem so snugly inside them.
When turning the acorn nuts without seeing the way the trussrod lies in the channel, how do I know that the trussrods are convex to the fretboard (countering string pull) and not concave?
-
The way the neck on my 4003 is concave even with no string pull, it will take some brute force to get those truss rods out of the channels, they seem so snugly inside them.
The neck is concave even without strings because the truss rods are bent this way. Instead of exerting force against the string pull, they work with the strings. Right now they have the same curve as the neck, so they will pull out easily through the headstock. You'll see.
When turning the acorn nuts without seeing the way the trussrod lies in the channel, how do I know that the trussrods are convex to the fretboard (countering string pull) and not concave?
You can feel it as you turn them. Make a few turns inside the channel, you will see what I mean. It will feel easier to turn when the curve is the same, but you want to stop turning when resistance is highest, i.e., when the rod is convex.
If it doesn't turn, pull the neck straight manually, and then turn the rods. I do it by having the bass stand on a carpet with its back in my direction, pulling the headstock back with my left hand while pushing the neck forward (gently) with my knee in the middle of it. Then I adjust the rods with my right hand.
-
I bought my first one in 1977 a new mapleglo 4001 w/case for 479.00 at Wurlitzer's in Boston. I could not get enough presence out of it, sold it a few years later and stayed with my Fender P basses and then bought a 1980 4001FL for 500 bucks in a music store in 1990, I then bought a white with black trim 81 4001, on and on. It took me a long time to realize that the cap was sucking all the life out of the 4001's and it was a Eureka moment when I finally tried the simple reversible mod. I tried it first on my 79 4001 mapleglo in 2003 which I still own and it was like, wow, my Ric is suddenly hear, I could hear the low mids which the cap scoops out and which gives these basses their presence (any bass actually). I've had so many over the years that a conservative estimate is at least 25, both 4001's and 4003's. The necks got chunky around 1996 and stayed that way until relativity recently, they are supposed to be thinner since about last year.
They took out the cap in late 1984 and put it back in a few years ago with a switch to put it in and out of the circuit, I had one and still hate the cap.
With 4001's if the nuts are digging into the back of the TR cavity it is because the strings are too heavy. Always push the neck backwards to take the tension off the neck from the strings forward pull as you tighten the truss rods on a 4001, also the truss rods are very light metal, if all of a sudden the nut won't turn any more at a certain point and the neck is still bowed it is likely that the threaded part has twisted and distorted the thread pattern, be careful you can snap the thread right off the end of the rod.
I always use flatwounds on all my basses including Rics, usually chromes. I now only own two Rics: a 72 jetglo 4001FL and the 79 mapleglo 4001. I plan on buying a new 4003FL since I have heard that they have finally got the side dot situation correct.
-
I just had my '76 4001 looked at by a Ric expert in San Francisco - first time I had seen the rods pulled out of the neck like that. At one point, he had me hold the body down while he pushed down on the neck to straighten it!
Finally a luthier who knows how to adjust 4001's. You need to do this is some way or other with all 4001's, in fact I do this with all basses. I have since I bought my first good bass, a new 1971 Fender P bass when I was 18 which I paid 250.00 with case on layaway. The booklet that came with it suggested doing this when tightening the truss rod and I've always done it.