The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: ack1961 on August 16, 2010, 10:47:14 AM
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Hey all,
I responded to a contest over on TB, where the idea is to build a bass using whatever spare parts you have lying around.
I decided to set aside my woodworking shortcomings and give it a try. Shortcomings is an exaggeration - I'm much worse than that.
Here's my rough plan:
- 2-piece Alder billet - I'll cut/shape it to look like a Telecaster guitar
- Nutless, tunerless maple/rosewood/blocked neck (I got it from Rondo for like $29 bucks a couple years ago)
- Fender Telebass Neck pickup
- Gibson EB-3 Bridge pickup
- Telecaster control plate w/ 3-way switch
- an old pickguard from a Jazz bass - will trim it to cover the neck pickup rout and part of the control plate.
- chrome tuners, bridge, neck plate, buttons, etc.
- Tusq nut
Cutting the slot for the Nut is what scares me the most.
I started it this weekend. Got the billet cut using a jigsaw and shaped it using a drum sander. Cut the neck pocket yesterday (In hindsight, I should have cut the neck pocket before I cut the billet)...more surface area to clamp router templates to.
Routing out the neck pickup cavity tonight.
Still unsure about whether or not to drill wiring holes or rout a wiring path (I'd rather drill, but it's a scary venture).
I wanted to make this shortscale (to limit neck dive, but I didn't plan it well enough and screwed up the neck pocket - the only choice I had was to re-rout the pocket to fit a Jazz neck.
If this goes well, I hope this will spawn new projects where I make the neck.
Here's a link to theproject pics, if anyone's interested:
http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/
Steve
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Hey Steve - I wish you the best on that project. Looks like it's shaping up OK!
Go for it!! :mrgreen:
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Seconded... ;)
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UH...That looks kinda way cool. I personally would make that headstock more rounder-Fenderish. Looks very cool. Why didn't Fender ever make a Tele bass like a Tele???
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Why didn't Fender ever make a Tele bass like a Tele???
Until the Jaguar bass Fender had a thing about not making basses with major neck dive. G&L has been making an ASAT bass for a longtime that is the Tele body shape, so I guess technically (Leo) Fender did.
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I had to slowly warm up to a Tele guitar body with bass appointments. Now I can say that I like them quite a bit.
Though I think that a Tele with a more rounded butt... like a Les Paul would be way cool too.
Anyway, it looks great so far.
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It's looking great especially for a first build. Shaping the neck pocket area before routing the neck pocket is a common mistake but you'll only make it once. I've got a bass in that build "competition", everyone seems to be having fun...how'd your hair shot go?
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It's looking great especially for a first build. Shaping the neck pocket area before routing the neck pocket is a common mistake but you'll only make it once. I've got a bass in that build "competition", everyone seems to be having fun...how'd your hair shot go?
Thanks, it's been fun so far...haven't taken a hair shot yet - waiting for the correct lighting/mood.
I just hand chiseled (just for fun) the bridge pup chamber. I've owned chisels all my life, and this was the first time I've ever used one.
The body has turned out far better than I ever expected - I'm trying to not ruin it with my ape hands and power tools.
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Only thing better than building your own bass is playing it.
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Thanks to all for the well wishes and comments.
I have a pickup orientation question that will probably seem silly to most.
The Telebass (neck position) pickup was oriented (in its pickguard) in a way that the pickup wires exited the pickup from the bottom "lower left-hand corner" (the corner closest to the players right thumb - as opposed to the corner closer to the control cavity). This seemed strange to me - why have pickup wires needlessly run under the pickup itself and then through whatever wiring channel you create (towards the control cavity)?
Along the same line of questioning: Do pickups (like the Gibson humbucker going into the Bridge pos) have an "E-string side" and a G-string side"?
Would I orient that pickup so the wires left the pickup in the "lower left-hand" orientation? or does it not matter at all?
Initially, my feelings were that since the pickup was rectangular in shape and not a specific shape like the '51 p-bass for example, then it wouldn't matter which way it was oriented in its cavity.
I may be totally wrong, but it would be good to know.
Thanks,
Steve
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I think setting the Tele pick up either way is going to give you the same response because it is symmetrical. On a 'bucker theoretically you'll get different response depending where the string sensing screws are. Closer to the bridge more treble, closer to the neck more bass. Notice how they orient a pair on LP guitars to get as much difference in sound as possible.
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Thanks for the info -
Looking for tips/ideas here...
Anyone have advice for drilling out the wiring channels between the pickup cavities and the control cavity?
I really don't want to rout a channel as there is probably going to be some neck-dive to begin with and I'd like to leave as much wood as possible. Also, there is no pickguard/cover for the bridge pup, so I can't channel there.
I can't get a drill head & bit parallel to the bottom of the cavity and drill horizontally to the control cavity.
I guess I can look into an angle-head drill (or use my 3/8" drive angled air impact wrench with a compressor), but the cavities are not that big. In fact, I've reached the width limit (where the pickguard is going to cover the rout) for the neck pup.
I have a Dremel tool, but I'm like an axe-murderer with that thing.
Thanks,
Steve
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Thanks for the info -
Looking for tips/ideas here...
Anyone have advice for drilling out the wiring channels between the pickup cavities and the control cavity?
I really don't want to rout a channel as there is probably going to be some neck-dive to begin with and I'd like to leave as much wood as possible. Also, there is no pickguard/cover for the bridge pup, so I can't channel there.
I can't get a drill head & bit parallel to the bottom of the cavity and drill horizontally to the control cavity.
I guess I can look into an angle-head drill (or use my 3/8" drive angled air impact wrench with a compressor), but the cavities are not that big. In fact, I've reached the width limit (where the pickguard is going to cover the rout) for the neck pup.
I have a Dremel tool, but I'm like an axe-murderer with that thing.
Thanks,
Steve
Easiest way is to get a long 1/4 inch drill bit. If you're using a side jack go thru that hole into the control cavity and into a pup cavity. That's what I'm doing on my Ergo/5 lb bass build. You can see here where the drill bit will go from endpin jack thru pup cavity to control cav (faint circle, it's in the top horn)...In theory. It was a bridge too far, bit got off track and started poking thru the body halfway between the pup and control cavs So I drilled thru the top horn thru control cav into pup cav. That line is also drawn on the body. Filled the horn hole with a dowel, it's barely noticeable and when finished, invisible. I used my shopsmith as a horizontal boring machine but my Fenderbird was done with a corded hand drill as is StratoBaster when the bass bridge was installed and needed a ground wire.
Re the Dremeel and any other tool. Practice, practice, practice!
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/ERGO/P1010866.jpg)
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Easiest way is to get a long 1/4 inch drill bit. If you're using a side jack go thru that hole into the control cavity and into a pup cavity. That's what I'm doing on my Ergo/5 lb bass build. You can see here where the drill bit will go from endpin jack thru pup cavity to control cav (faint circle, it's in the top horn)...In theory. It was a bridge too far, bit got off track and started poking thru the body halfway between the pup and control cavs So I drilled thru the top horn thru control cav into pup cav. That line is also drawn on the body. Filled the horn hole with a dowel, it's barely noticeable and when finished, invisible. I used my shopsmith as a horizontal boring machine but my Fenderbird was done with a corded hand drill as is StratoBaster when the bass bridge was installed and needed a ground wire.
Re the Dremeel and any other tool. Practice, practice, practice!
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/ERGO/P1010866.jpg)
Interesting, thanks.
I may be able to drill a wiring channel from the output jack location through the control cavity and into the neck pup cavity.
Just need a real long bit - shouldn't be a problem.
BTW, I like the location of the control cavity on your project...and that headstock shape is an awesome match for that body.
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You can do it. Gibson has for years.
My 12" long 1/4" came from the electrical department at a Hardware store eons ago. Electricians/handy men use them in rehabs. They sell them at harbor freight for pretty cheap now, 3/8" diameter maybe. I got a 4' one with a screw tip and cut it down to 2 feet. $10
Thanks for the compliments. I'm pretty happy with the headstock shape, to me it's a little more refined than Alembic's or Gibson's. But it was all I could get out of the TR headstock. Won't really work with a larger body.
I'm gotta run out and buy a DremEel.
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Getting there...and I still have all 10 fingers.
I got all the routs done and all the wiring channels drilled through. Cut an old Jazz pickguard and routed a pup opening.
Got about 30 minutes of 100 grit sanding done. Probably hit it with 220 tomorrow and then some sanding sealer, some light 220, then some poly spray (that part scares me).
So far, this build has cost me $8.63 (for a Telecaster Output Jack Cup) & I had to buy some Electrostatic Paint (that crap ain't cheap - holy cow!!)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0488.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0492.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0493.jpg)
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Looking good! Especially for $8.63! ;D
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Killer! Very clean work.
...anybody try using heavy duty aluminum foil for shielding? I've pretty much stopped bothering with using any shielding with no bad effects. I'd spend the money on some intermediate grades of sandpaper. I like 80/120/180 then sealer. 240/320/ possibly 400 before poly. No fil paper with 3M hard rubber sanding block. Stay off the edges until last, they pretty much take care of themselves.
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Never been a Tele fan but gotta admit... 8)
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Killer! Very clean work.
...anybody try using heavy duty aluminum foil for shielding? I've pretty much stopped bothering with using any shielding with no bad effects. I'd spend the money on some intermediate grades of sandpaper. I like 80/120/180 then sealer. 240/320/ possibly 400 before poly. No fil paper with 3M hard rubber sanding block. Stay off the edges until last, they pretty much take care of themselves.
Thanks for the tips.
I'll keep at it, and follow your sanding advice. Any tips as for what to feel for - when you know you're done sanding? Am I looking for that glass-like - no grain feel?
I must admit, building this thing has been one of the most therapeutic things I've ever done.
Even the mistakes (this project started as a shortscale telecaster bass, but I royally screwed up the neck pocket) have been interesting.
Steve
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Thanks for the tips.
I'll keep at it, and follow your sanding advice. Any tips as for what to feel for - when you know you're done sanding? Am I looking for that glass-like - no grain feel?
I must admit, building this thing has been one of the most therapeutic things I've ever done.
Even the mistakes (this project started as a shortscale telecaster bass, but I royally screwed up the neck pocket) have been interesting.
Steve
It IS about feel... and using a block behind your sandpaper from the beginning to level the surface. Otherwise you will be just turning mountains into hills with the finer grits and the finish will always have ripples. Fingertips will tell you a lot, sometimes more than your eyes. The best teacher I've had on how to do solid finishes was a DIY booklet on auto body painting. That and lots of practice. Using a low angle light source can help to show imperfections.
Glad you're having fun, the results are showing it.
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(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0488.jpg)
Very nice project, for sure for this money. :)
One thing: I really think you will be having a problem with the output/stringbalance. The bucker at the bridge isn't that well suited for this kind of stringspacing (unless this bridge can be adjusted for smaller spacing). I've done a "JazzBird" in the past with a mudbucker on the position of the neck-Jazzpup, and with that project I noticed that the E and G string had far less output.
I found a way to fix this for the biggest part, the trick is to extend the magnetic field. This was later called by Rob (Basvarken) as the "Nail-That-Tone" method :mrgreen:
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c305/Jazzboer/JazzBird/151120091047.jpg)
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c305/Jazzboer/JazzBird/151120091032.jpg)
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That turned out really nice!
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Thanks, Doc! I always liked the idea of a "Mel Schacher-mod", but I never succeeded to make it sound just "right". The bad string-balance didn't help either. :)
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Thanks for the replies.
The string spacing issue was one of the reasons that I ripped the Schaller Roller bridge off an SX Jazz bass that I don't like very much.
The Schaller also has a shim plate and together they add substantial weight over the bent bridge I was going to use.
Before I cut the nut & nut-slot, I'm going to see if I can find a decent string balance between the two pickups. I flipped over and lined up the pickup covers of the two pickups and they're close enough that I think the rollers should be able to compensate.
All that being said, this thing might still sound like hell when I'm done.
I like the Allen key solution. Great stuff.
Very nice project, for sure for this money. :)
One thing: I really think you will be having a problem with the output/stringbalance. The bucker at the bridge isn't that well suited for this kind of stringspacing (unless this bridge can be adjusted for smaller spacing). I've done a "JazzBird" in the past with a mudbucker on the position of the neck-Jazzpup, and with that project I noticed that the E and G string had far less output.
I found a way to fix this for the biggest part, the trick is to extend the magnetic field. This was later called by Rob (Basvarken) as the "Nail-That-Tone" method :mrgreen:
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c305/Jazzboer/JazzBird/151120091047.jpg)
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c305/Jazzboer/JazzBird/151120091032.jpg)
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Dude, you're scaring me with the attention to detail on your first build. ;D
...any consideration on reversing the pup locations? Doesn't the Fender have a wider spacing? I'm sure you have your reasons for wanting the bassier pickup at the bridge but SOP over the years has been to get treble out of that area since it produces more of those overtones. What are you looking for tonewise out of your setup?
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Dude, you're scaring me with the attention to detail on your first build. ;D
...any consideration on reversing the pup locations? Doesn't the Fender have a wider spacing? I'm sure you have your reasons for wanting the bassier pickup at the bridge but SOP over the years has been to get treble out of that area since it produces more of those overtones. What are you looking for tonewise out of your setup?
Great question - I originally wanted to use only the Fender humbucker in the neck pos. While my son and I were out buying something off CL earlier this year, the seller found the Gibson pup in a box and gave it to us. My son remembered that pickup and the telecaster 3-way control plate and really wanted to put it in the bridge pos - honestly, as of that moment, I figured that the sound was going to suffer a bit, but it's all good. The build is important, and he's been interested in helping out. Hanging out in the shed and cutting stuff together.
The next build - using a nice Walnut piece - will be all about tone and function. Be warned everyone...I'll have lots more questions on that build.
Cheers.
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Great going, Dad!
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Great going, Dad!
Yeah. Why burst his bubble? He'll have the rest of his life to deal with minor disappointments.
This build is also one of those things that a dad and a 17 year old can do together - no girlfriends, band-mates, school issues, etc. getting in the way.
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...any consideration on reversing the pup locations? Doesn't the Fender have a wider spacing?
Good point. The Fender has a wider spacing and can be used in the bridgeposition without any problems of output/stringbalance. Reversing the pup locations will probably save you a lot of trouble.
And besides that: that Fender at the bridge will scare the #%#% out of you, so much power, it will make a Stingray cry for his mom. 8) One of my fellow bassplayers judged my Lotto as the best Stingray-sound ever, with the bridgepup solo'd.
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c305/Jazzboer/Lotto/210420101708.jpg)
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Good point. The Fender has a wider spacing and can be used in the bridgeposition without any problems of output/stringbalance. Reversing the pup locations will probably save you a lot of trouble.
And besides that: that Fender at the bridge will scare the #%#% out of you, so much power, it will make a Stingray cry for his mom. 8) One of my fellow bassplayers judged my Lotto as the best Stingray-sound ever, with the bridgepup solo'd.
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c305/Jazzboer/Lotto/210420101708.jpg)
Boy is that nice.
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Thank you! :)
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Thank you! :)
Mind if I pick your brain?
What technique did you use to cut and edge your pickguard? It's really, really nice and it fits the contours of the bass so nicely.
On mine, I used a jigsaw to cut the straight edge, and tried to use the router (freehand) to bevel the curved edges, but it turned out horrible.
The router bit (which is brand new) wanted to really chew up the sides of the pickguard instead of exposing all three layers.
I'm sure that part of the solution is lots of practice, that's why it doesn't bother me on my first build, but in the future...
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DO NOT FREEHAND WITH A ROUTER! I've got a jangly tendon and a $1500 ER bill from last month to prove it.
If you want to try to freehand bevel, use a dremel tool, with a mini drum sander or a hand file. The correct way to bevel a guard starts with making a template out of 1/4" masonite. rough cut your guard, carpet tape it to the template and use a flush trim bit to get the shape. Then use a 45 degree bevel bit with pilot bearing to do the bevel. You can check out my Fenderbird Resurrection thread, pg 3, for the template I did for that one. I drilled the mounting holes with the guard attached to the template so I could duplicate it if I build another.
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That's the right way, I second that: use a template for the guard. :)
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DO NOT FREEHAND WITH A ROUTER! I've got a jangly tendon and a $1500 ER bill from last month to prove it.
If you want to try to freehand bevel, use a dremel tool, with a mini drum sander or a hand file. The correct way to bevel a guard starts with making a template out of 1/4" masonite. rough cut your guard, carpet tape it to the template and use a flush trim bit to get the shape. Then use a 45 degree bevel bit with pilot bearing to do the bevel. You can check out my Fenderbird Resurrection thread, pg 3, for the template I did for that one. I drilled the mounting holes with the guard attached to the template so I could duplicate it if I build another.
Thanks for the tips. I'll cut a template today - maybe I can save that curved edge.
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I have cut the edge of a pickguard with a simple metal cabinet scrapper. Easy and safe!
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I got the 1st coat of Sanding Sealer 220'd off - still deciding whether or not to apply a 2nd coat.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0506.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0505.jpg)
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I have cut the edge of a pickguard with a simple metal cabinet scrapper. Easy and safe!
I'm wordworking challenged, but highly intrigued.
Care to elaborate?
Thanks,
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dorking around with headstock design. I love the 3+1 arrangement:
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0511.jpg)
My son and I both really like this one:
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0513.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0514.jpg)
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I'm wordworking challenged, but highly intrigued.
Care to elaborate?
Thanks,
These are cabinet (woodworker's) scrapers. You put an edge on them and use them to scrape wood and other edges or surfaces. I often scrape first and then sand many guitar surfaces because scraping is faster.
You run the scraper along the edge of the PG material at a 45 degree angle and you get a beveled edge. It takes patience and practice, but it's fine if I'm doing a one-only PG and don't want to spend the time making a template. Nothing spectacular, just another way to git er done.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_3385.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_3386.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_3387.jpg)
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Thanks for the reply & the pictures - very much appreciated.
I searched on YouTube yesterday and found a guy explaining how to use (and sharpen) these blades.
For my application, I think your idea is going to work fine. I'll practice on the part I cut off.
Again, thanks for the thoughtful reply.
Steve
These are cabinet (woodworker's) scrapers. You put an edge on them and use them to scrape wood and other edges or surfaces. I often scrape first and then sand many guitar surfaces because scraping is faster.
You run the scraper along the edge of the PG material at a 45 degree angle and you get a beveled edge. It takes patience and practice, but it's fine if I'm doing a one-only PG and don't want to spend the time making a template. Nothing spectacular, just another way to git er done.
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My pleasure. I learned from someone in a forum just like this one!
Thanks for the reply & the pictures - very much appreciated.
I searched on YouTube yesterday and found a guy explaining how to use (and sharpen) these blades.
For my application, I think your idea is going to work fine. I'll practice on the part I cut off.
Again, thanks for the thoughtful reply.
Steve
These are cabinet (woodworker's) scrapers. You put an edge on them and use them to scrape wood and other edges or surfaces. I often scrape first and then sand many guitar surfaces because scraping is faster.
You run the scraper along the edge of the PG material at a 45 degree angle and you get a beveled edge. It takes patience and practice, but it's fine if I'm doing a one-only PG and don't want to spend the time making a template. Nothing spectacular, just another way to git er done.
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Almost done! - it's all tested and it sounds huge.
Gotta shield the cavities and fix the nut and find smaller screws for the bridge pickup cover...
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0534.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0535-1.jpg)
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Magnificent. That finish is beautiful! How's the balance?
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I haven't put any strap buttons on yet because I want to give the sides another shot of Poly, but from all indications of how it sits in my lap, it's gonna dive.
Edit: I put strap buttons on. I moved the back button up towards the E string, and the balance isn't too bad.
Doesn't dive nearly as bad as I thought it would and with a wider strap, it'll be alright.
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Dat's the coolist baby !
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Nice, how does the mudbucker sound in that position?
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It's not as hot as the Telebass HB, but it's surprisingly brighter than I was expecting.
Solo'd, it's pretty snarly and even with the original .33uF cap it's got a pretty good range.
Where I really like this bass is both pickups on and about 40% rolled off the tone knob.
I'll try to post some sound clips.
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Oh yes please post some clips. I thought mudbuckers where much hotter than 7ender buckers...
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It's not as hot as the Telebass HB, but it's surprisingly brighter than I was expecting.
Solo'd, it's pretty snarly and even with the original .33uF cap it's got a pretty good range.
The output of each pickup is about the same. The mudbucker has a stronger fundamental and fewer mids and highs but you have it in the bridge position which picks up less string movement and less fundamental. So it doesn't sound as hot. The Tele Bass HB has a very loud midrange which comes across as hot in either position.
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The output of each pickup is about the same. The mudbucker has a stronger fundamental and fewer mids and highs but you have it in the bridge position which picks up less string movement and less fundamental. So it doesn't sound as hot. The Tele Bass HB has a very loud midrange which comes across as hot in either position.
Thanks, Dave.
Can you explain the difference between a "fundamental" and "midrange" to a layman?
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By fundamental I mean the fundamental frequency of a note, also called the first harmonic. Low end is generally considered the fundamental and lower harmonics (multiples of the fundamental frequency), highs are the upper harmonics, midrange is what's in between.
The Gibson mudbucker was designed for "pipe organ lows", as Bill Lawrence put it, without much regard for mids and highs. The closer a pickup is to the bridge, the less the string movement over the pickup, and as a result, it doesn't pick up as many lower frequencies, which is why any pickup sounds brighter in the bridge position. With the Gibson, its power comes from those lows, so in the bridge position it won't be as strong sounding because its mids and highs aren't that strong. Hope that makes some sense.
Sometime you might also want to look up Fletcher-Munson curves.
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By fundamental I mean the fundamental frequency of a note, also called the first harmonic. Low end is generally considered the fundamental and lower harmonics (multiples of the fundamental frequency), highs are the upper harmonics, midrange is what's in between.
The Gibson mudbucker was designed for "pipe organ lows", as Bill Lawrence put it, without much regard for mids and highs. The closer a pickup is to the bridge, the less the string movement over the pickup, and as a result, it doesn't pick up as many lower frequencies, which is why any pickup sounds brighter in the bridge position. With the Gibson, its power comes from those lows, so in the bridge position it won't be as strong sounding because its mids and highs aren't that strong. Hope that makes some sense.
Sometime you might also want to look up Fletcher-Munson curves.
That was a great explanation, thanks.
The electronics portion of this build was very interesting, although I really just slapped it together.
I'm going to read more material so I can make more educated decisions on the electronics for my 2nd build.
Thanks again.
Steve
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Thinking of something a little different for the headstock logo for "AckBass":
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/Headstockwithlogo_6-1.jpg)
or something like this on the headstock:
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/AckBasslogo_1.jpg)
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LOVE IT!!!
Bill is my hero. :-*
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Bill is so cool. I love it...it's purrfect.
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Definitely like the cat...
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Very cool, it's the "cat's meow!"
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Go with Bill! I assume that's where the "Ack" moniker came from?
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Go with Bill! I assume that's where the "Ack" moniker came from?
"Ack" is a nickname I've had since the '60's - comes from my surname: Acker
It was pretty cool that it was the only thing ever uttered by Bill the Cat.
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OK, it's all finished:
Much to the chagrin of my son, I disassembled it (I got the feeling he was not confident that I could put it back together) and sanded a few layers away trying to fix a few things. I shielded the cavities and applied 2 more coats of poly, then finished with some of that Finesse-It stuff. After it's all buffed out and shiny, you can see all the amateur imperfections. Haven't decided about a logo yet - we'll get there and I want to swap the switch tip with a chrome one:
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0556.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0555.jpg)
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz62/ack1961/Telecaster%20Bass%20build/SSPX0558.jpg)
Thanks to everyone who helped me get this completed. I had lots of questions and concerns and your input was very valuable.
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That is beautiful.
Now we need to hear some samples, please. As said, the PU. configuration is very interesting. Nice job.
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nice job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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That finish looks great, ditto the bass! Your son's confidence must be restored.
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Always liked the Tele shape. nice job! :mrgreen:
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Looks great. Embrace the minor imperfections.
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Absolutely - NICE work! Looks great...play it with pride!
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That turned out great! I like it a lot.
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Looks great. Embrace the minor imperfections.
Agree with both observations! AND I like the headstock.... ;)
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Pretty much unique... 8)
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(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn170/birdie-55/IMG_0888.jpg)
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No, c'mon Bird, open another thread about that doublecut, or did i miss something? I remember the 32" LP you made but this.....nice, what's the specs?
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It's a proof of concept, the first one. #2 had the neck glued in just yesterday. Thicker body.Slightly diff. bridge and pup locations and a 4 degree angled back headstock. New body join. Also will prob. be sunburst!! Will post something on the projects section in 30 seconds....give or take..
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(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn170/birdie-55/IMG_0888.jpg)
Man, you talk about an instrument with flowing lines - that's it right there.
Gorgeous work.
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Don't want to revive a dead thread, but I had to add that I just got a letter from Berkeley Breathed's office saying that he's OK'd the use of Bill the Cat on my headstock. I don't know much about copyright laws, so I wrote him and asked permission, since Bill is his creation.
Kinda cool that they took the time to even respond to a one-off request like this.
Ack
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Wow, that's really nice. Most folks aren't that laid back about thing like this. Congrats!
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That is a worthy resurection... too 8) for school...
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Really nice! He might appreciate a pic when it's finished.
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I'm pleasantly surprised that he granted permission. I think you did great!