The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Gibson Basses => Topic started by: bobyoung on July 22, 2017, 02:33:36 PM
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Anyone here know what i can use for the felt for a bass mute? I bought a 66 EB-2 last week and just bought a mute for it with no felt, anyone have any tips on what to do for a mute?
Also does anyone know what type of screws hold it into the body? The holes are pretty small.
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Not sure exactly on the mounting screws... but I've used old mousepads as foam-donors on a couple of mutes:
(http://i.imgur.com/wXLBm7b.jpg)
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Thanks, not a bad idea, do you glue them in or just place them?
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Thanks, not a bas idea, do you glue them in or just place them?
Had to build the foam up using two layers cut from the mousepad, and I think I used Weldwood contact cement (because I already had some around) to glue the layers together and secure it in the baseplate.
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My Univox bass's flip-up-mute is just a flat strip of rubber. The original mute foam on my 1963 P (I still have the mute) is about 3/8" thick weatherstripping form.
Many different materials have been used, and seems like most of them worked; depends mainly on how much muting effect you want and how hard they contact the strings.
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I don't like real heavy muting action, just enough to cut some of the highs and cut some of the sustain a little bit. My Ric's have a mute and even though I put new rubber in them and cut them in half they still damp the string way too much for me. That's why I thought the felt might work well especially the way the Gibson mute works, it looks like you can kind of dial in the amount you want. I bought a new Fender P bass that came with the rubber under the bridge cover years ago but I took that thing off so fast that i don't remember what it sounded like with the cover on.
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I don't like heavy muting action either, like a dead thump. That's why I prefer a softer material like the soft foam a pickup is packed in when you buy it is perfect. I cut a strip 1/2"-3/4" wide, have it only high enough for the string to just nestle in it and push it right up against the bridge saddles.
That's enough the stop unwanted overtones and have minimal affect to the sustain.
Changing the location lets you get how much you want.
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I don't like real heavy muting action, just enough to cut some of the highs and cut some of the sustain a little bit....
You don't need to be concerned about cutting highs with an EB-2. :mrgreen:
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That's true, haha! I was talking to another bass player at the jam I went to and told I put Rotos on it to add a little high end, he said "did it work"? I said "no", I then pulled out a pick and said I use this to add a little high end, he said "does it work"? I said "no" so we both laughed, but the thing does sound good. I played the perfect tune for it Friday night: Louie Louie!
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I know Dave. I got caught up in the conversation and moved away from the point.
Having said that, I bought a brand new 94 EB Sterling which at that time had individual string mutes, and it looked like a piece of mouse pad at contact. I immediately took them off.
That being my frame of reference, I offered me preference on "fuller spectrum" basses.
Restoring an original EB-2 is an understandable venture, and fully lauded.
I have perved for an EB-2 for many moons and finally settled for an Epi JC. No regrets, but....
As an aside, my mudbucker luv goes back a long way. I bought this Tele bass brand new in 1970. By 1975, when this picture was taken, I had refinished the bass twice and performed a very popular mod of the day. Part of me is still smitten
(http://i.imgur.com/1h8rb8l.jpg)
P.S. I did own a '76 EB-3 for a few years, so even with the treble pu, I hear you bobyoung!
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I bought some felt that was made to put under furniture so it can slide and not scratch the floor but it's too stiff so I think I'll try to find some soft foam rubber somewhere and try that. I did mount the mute under the bridge though and the action is still good so whether or not I use it I'm going to leave it there.
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Any pics, Bob? Cherry or sunburst?
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It's a lousy picture but hey my wife didn't know I wanted the headstock included in the picture :mrgreen:.
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As long as it actually has a headstock, that's okay. ;D
Looks nice!
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I just remembered that I had a loose mute in the case of my Les Paul Bass. I think all three screws should have been like the small brass one, all flat heads.
(http://i.imgur.com/C8AhyJe.jpg)
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I believe they are 1/2" brass #4 wood scRew. I check my screw charT FOR SUre. The mouse pad and weather stripping sound Good . I was going to find a piano repair shop ,they should have felt.
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Yes, it's clear from the recessed mounting holes in the mute that all screws should be flat head wood screws with the appropriate taper under the head.
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I believe they are 1/2" brass #4 wood scRew. I check my screw charT FOR SUre. The mouse pad and weather stripping sound Good . I was going to find a piano repair shop ,they should have felt.
Great idea! They will have felt for hammers.
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I believe they are 1/2" brass #4 wood scRew. I check my screw charT FOR SUre. The mouse pad and weather stripping sound Good . I was going to find a piano repair shop ,they should have felt.
They're smaller than #4's, they're actually really small on mine I used two pickguard screws and they fit perfectly, did I miss one?
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One more question: do the two acorn nuts (or whatever you call them) on top of the mute come off? I want to know before I completely screw mine up, would make it a lot easier to experiment with material for a mute.
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One more question: do the two acorn nuts (or whatever you call them) on top of the mute come off? I want to know before I completely screw mine up, would make it a lot easier to experiment with material for a mute.
The acorn nut does come off. I believe it also unscrews at the base. The acorn nut might be jammed against the stud causing it to unscrew from the base...........
On several of mine, the two little screws that go in from the back side had come loose. They hold the nylon slide tight. You have to get behind the paper sticker to tighten them up. A good thing to do if you need to before it is installed.
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The acorn nut does come off. I believe it also unscrews at the base. The acorn nut might be jammed against the stud causing it to unscrew from the base...........
On several of mine, the two little screws that go in from the back side had come loose. They hold the nylon slide tight. You have to get behind the paper sticker to tighten them up. A good thing to do if you need to before it is installed.
Thanks I'll check it out soon.