A 74 Ripper (Alder body) has come up for sale locally, I had a play of it and instantly fell in love with it however it has some issues and I'm looking for some advice from the experts.
They're asking $1999 AUD = $1430 USD
1. The fret wire is universally flat and wide. This didn't affect the notes just found it odd compared to fender frets.
2. The 3 point bridge was screwed down to the body, the overall setup was nice but does that indicate a neck adjustment problem?
3. The nut has been replaced and it doesn't match the space of the old one, it's smaller but the string grooves are fine.
4. There's a chip taken out of the ebony fret board between the 1st fret and nut, didn't affect playability but should deduct from the premium price they're asking.
5. The vari-tone dial is loose and didn't work but apparently it does intermittently by wiggling it.
6. The pickups sounded OK
So I'm thinking it'll need some work and the price is pretty high.
Thanks
Quote from: pjm on November 19, 2015, 01:37:42 AM
A 74 Ripper (Alder body) has come up for sale locally, I had a play of it and instantly fell in love with it however it has some issues and I'm looking for some advice from the experts.
They're asking $1999 AUD = $1430 USD
1. The fret wire is universally flat and wide. This didn't affect the notes just found it odd compared to fender frets.
2. The 3 point bridge was screwed down to the body, the overall setup was nice but does that indicate a neck adjustment problem?
3. The nut has been replaced and it doesn't match the space of the old one, it's smaller but the string grooves are fine.
4. There's a chip taken out of the ebony fret board between the 1st fret and nut, didn't affect playability but should deduct from the premium price they're asking.
5. The vari-tone dial is loose and didn't work but apparently it does intermittently by wiggling it.
6. The pickups sounded OK
So I'm thinking it'll need some work and the price is pretty high.
Thanks
1. I'd focus on wether or not frets are worn. If it's not affecting notes, I assume it's OK, the width is a matter of taste.
2. Never had a ripper, but if you suspect a truss rod problem then sort that out before buying.
3. Nuts are not the most expensive part, just make a new one.
4. Got to haggle!
5. These sometimes go bad; if you can fix electronics yourself, it''s no biggie but it should be reflected in the price.
My '76 T-bird has very wide and flat frets and I don't dislike them. Works fine.
1. I like wide and flat frets better than thin high ones. Matter of personal taste I guess.
2. On pics that I have seen of Rippers they all have the three point down pretty low. No issue as long as the action is okay for you.
3. If the nut does what it should do it;s fine. You could always have it replaced by a wider one.
4. This should help you to get a (little) lower price.
5. Get your soldering iron out.
6. Good.
Go for it! :mrgreen:
1. The fret wire is universally flat and wide. This didn't affect the notes just found it odd compared to fender frets.
Standard with Gibsons of that era and especially Rippers. A matter of taste and being used to it.
2. The 3 point bridge was screwed down to the body, the overall setup was nice but does that indicate a neck adjustment problem?
As above. They had to be screwed pretty low to bein with because the saddles initially used were way too high (the became less tall over time). No neck realignement or new bridge neccessary, just file the saddle notches deeper if need be.
3. The nut has been replaced and it doesn't match the space of the old one, it's smaller but the string grooves are fine.
Purely cosmetical.
4. There's a chip taken out of the ebony fret board between the 1st fret and nut, didn't affect playability but should deduct from the premium price they're asking.
Cosmetical and price-decreasing.
5. The vari-tone dial is loose and didn't work but apparently it does intermittently by wiggling it.
"Intermittently by wiggling it" is not enough for a Ripper of that price, have them fix the vari-tone so it's no longer loose and then play it to see if it works then. It should. Getting the right entrails for a Ripper is not that easy anymore if there is anything wrong.
6. The pickups sounded OK.
Just ok? You should really dig them, there is little point in buying an old Ripper and then chucking the pups out because you can't live with the sound. Rippers have a deep sound (that can be scooped via the varitone and the midrange control), but they are not violently assertive basses like a Ric, Stingray or P-Bass can be.
I shall be very happy if the value of my four Gibson Rippers (plus two Epi Rippers and one Gibson Ripper II) has risen that much over the last decade or so, but I find the shop's offer pricey for an instruement they have seemingly put no work in (unless there is a significant markup on everything Down Under), 1,000 USD should be more like it (even if you count in that a shop is the seller). 1,400 USD for a pristine, well-kept one with everything in working order and no obvious replacements.
Thanks everyone.
The shop sells used gear on consignment only so that's why the price is high and they won't pay for any repairs because technically it's not owned by them.
My concern about the pick ups comes from watching Ed Friedland clips on you tube and he talks about Ripper pickup loosing tone and having low output because they weren't sealed.
I thought the pickups on the Ripper sounded sweet but I can't compare it to other Rippers.
Australian prices for used basses are higher than in the US, but even so that is overpriced. You're right that being in a shop on consignment automatically translates to unrealistic pricing - on eBay or forum classifieds in Australia it would top out around AUD$1300-$1500 with the issues you've mentioned. One in better condition, or a black or burst example might hit AUD$1800-$2000 though.
If the truss rod is operable, the neck is not twisted, and the issue with the Varitone can be easily fixed, then I'd suggest offering something like AUD$1300 and see how you go. I wouldn't pay more than AUD$1500 though - you can import one from the US on eBay or Talkbass for that cost --- http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&_sop=16&_nkw=gibson%20ripper&LH_PrefLoc=2&_dcat=3858&rt=nc&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=1000&_udhi=1500
Quote from: pjm on November 19, 2015, 12:30:45 PM
Thanks everyone.
The shop sells used gear on consignment only so that's why the price is high and they won't pay for any repairs because technically it's not owned by them.
My concern about the pick ups comes from watching Ed Friedland clips on you tube and he talks about Ripper pickup loosing tone and having low output because they weren't sealed.
I thought the pickups on the Ripper sounded sweet but I can't compare it to other Rippers.
IMHO if Ed said that, he's mistaken. A pickup doesn't lose tone or output for lack of being sealed. Ripper pickups are relatively low output anyway, and as Uwe said, they aren't assertive. If you don't like the tone, pass.
That price would be on the very high end for a Ripper with no issues. OTOH the shop can only do so much on a consignment. You could always make an offer contingent on the Varitone being fixed.
Quote from: Aussie Mark on November 19, 2015, 02:49:12 PM
One in better condition, or a black or burst example might hit AUD$1800-$2000 though.
But since it has an ebony fretboard it should be either ebony or burst right?
This is the clip where he talks about the pickups being" toast"
http://youtu.be/lUMPcMsRNcA
It a black Ripper
Quote from: pjm on November 19, 2015, 08:58:11 PM
This is the clip where he talks about the pickups being" toast"
http://youtu.be/lUMPcMsRNcA
The pickups may have been toast on his particular bass, but there are many unpotted pickups out there (including Seymour Duncan's Antiquity and Seth Lover guitar humbuckers). I've never heard of pickguard gases damaging an unpotted coil, and I doubt Seymour has either. It is possible for a pickup to get a partial short and that would reduce output, but who knows if that was true in Ed's case since the originals aren't high output anyway.
I played my Ripper at a gig last Saturday. Admittedly it has SD Ripper replacement pickups in it but I really don't understand where you guys get this "non-assertive" thing. Also admittedly I was playing through an Ampeg 8x10 rig (sweet house gear!). But to cut a long story short it was sounding absolutely beasting, most certainly assertive! The singer/keyboardista was in front of me in the firing line and turned around every so often to give me a half approving, half disapproving look ;)
Someone's going to jump on the fact that the pickups are "modern" replacements but I thought the point of them was that they were wound/constructed as per the originals - "The Seymour Duncan Ripper bass pickup is an exact recreation of the originals inside and out" - taken from the SD Custom Shop website.
What gives? Have I got a magic Ripper, or is it just a case of me hearing something different to you guys?
The Seymour Duncan Ripper replacement pups are also what went into the Ripper II and that does sound a lot more assertive, yes, it's much sharper and more "there" then its old predecessors. It's the difference between hearing a shoddy (recycled) vinyl pressing full of hiss and an immaculate CD remaster of the same recording. Those SD Ripper pups are really, really good, you made the right choice. And that fretless Ripper in the vid has a clarity to it too that the orinal pups would not be able to deliver, they don't have the detail and focus. That is why - ignoring vintage aspects (which in this forum where "vintage" is a synonym for "better" and "new" a synonym for "worse quality in all aspects" is of course impossible :mrgreen: ) - the Ripper II is a better-sounding bass than the original Ripper (same is true for the Grabber and G-3 Tribute reissues of recent years btw).
Re pickguard gases: I had an old Ripper (big body version) that had forever verdigris issues. It crept out of the pg and attacked everything: clear coat fin, hardware, controls, strings and I'm sure eventually also the pups. No amount of cleansing and oiling helped. After years of constant issues - you'd put the bass away for a week or two and it would be all fogged-up already, the new strings dead (I wrote about it a couple of times here, you all thought I was mad 8) ) - I chucked the nice original tortoise pg away, got a new one and had the bass completely re-clearcoated and the hardware rechromed. That finally solved it (even though the newly chromed hardware dulled in rapid time). There might have been an issue with the mineral content of those old tortoise guards Gibson used (or maybe just a batch of them), it was really an unsettling experience because there was nothing either I or my luthier could do. It took a while too until we realized that the pg was the culprit. So I'm not discounting the possibility that the guy in the vid is actually right with his theory. Given how aggressive the verdigris on mine was, I have doubts though whether it would not have eaten away the potting in the long run too.
Here is something about it:
http://www.fine-instruments.net/repair.html
Pickguard gases have long been known to eat/destroy wood, so why not other materials?
When the police gets reports on stolen jazz guitars, they always first check if the guitar was eaten by the pickguard:-)
Quote from: uwe on November 20, 2015, 06:44:22 AM
and the hardware rechromed
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/shonenjump.viz.com/drupal/art/traitor.jpg)
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
The luthier did it without asking me I swear!!!
Is it the one at Music Swop Shop? A few hints in your posts. :)
I had a look at the pic of that one online-
(http://www.musicswopshop.com.au/Content/images/stock/thumbnails/200X9999/IMG_469500092-MSS%2044837.jpg)
I think it is too dear for the condition. I'm with Aussie Mark- it appears a bit knocked around, in our fair land $1200 or so, maybe less if there are some issues. Make an offer- the owner will either accept, reject it or haggle.
Ripper parts aren't easy to get, if some need replacing, although they do come up occasionally. The low $AU adds to the cost if you need to get something from O/S.
A few things- check the neck out for twist etc- there are a couple getting around with bad necks. Not saying this is one of those but a twisted neck on a Ripper is a big problem.
Having said that, I really like Ripper necks- they are among my favourites. I have an unbound ES 335 Bass and the neck is very similar.
I had a pickup die in a big bodied 74 Ripper a while back. I got some great advice from the guys here.
I ended up going with a rewind of my pickup by SD Custom Shop- MJ there was great.
The cost was a bit cheaper than a SD CS one out here but not inconsequential when factoring in two way postage- over $AU200 from memory.
I really can't pick a difference between the original pickup and now that it is rewound.
Rippers are a thing all of their own soundwise- you either like them or don't IMO.
I really like mine for our amplified acoustic set- it works really well with the guitarist's Maton ECW80- but Rippers are quite versatile.
Quote from: veebass on November 20, 2015, 03:16:14 PM
Is it the one at Music Swop Shop? A few hints in your posts. :)
I had a look at the pic of that one online-
(http://www.musicswopshop.com.au/Content/images/stock/thumbnails/200X9999/IMG_469500092-MSS%2044837.jpg)
I think it is too dear for the condition. I'm with Aussie Mark- it appears a bit knocked around, in our fair land $1200 or so, maybe less if there are some issues. Make an offer- the owner will either accept, reject it or haggle.
Ripper parts aren't easy to get, if some need replacing, although they do come up occasionally. The low $AU adds to the cost if you need to get something from O/S.
A few things- check the neck out for twist etc- there are a couple getting around with bad necks. Not saying this is one of those but a twisted neck on a Ripper is a big problem.
Having said that, I really like Ripper necks- they are among my favourites. I have an unbound ES 335 Bass and the neck is very similar.
I had a pickup die in a big bodied 74 Ripper a while back. I got some great advice from the guys here.
I ended up going with a rewind of my pickup by SD Custom Shop- MJ there was great.
The cost was a bit cheaper than a SD CS one out here but not inconsequential when factoring in two way postage- over $AU200 from memory.
I really can't pick a difference between the original pickup and now that it is rewound.
Rippers are a thing all of their own soundwise- you either like them or don't IMO.
I really like mine for our amplified acoustic set- it works really well with the guitarist's Maton ECW80- but Rippers are quite versatile.
Yep that's the one. I made a fair offer but haven't heard back yet. From memory I didn't notice a twisted neck. I might let this one go and wait for one in decent condition to come up.
Quote from: amptech on November 20, 2015, 08:17:22 AM
Pickguard gases have long been known to eat/destroy wood, so why not other materials?
When the police gets reports on stolen jazz guitars, they always first check if the guitar was eaten by the pickguard:-)
I've never, ever heard of a pickguard eating wood, but if it were true, it wouldn't necessarily follow that it could eat metal.
Off-gassing from nitrocellulose pickguards is notorious for corroding plating: chrome, gold, and nickel. Particularly nitrocellulose tort guards, more than others. I've seen no evidence that it can eat through sold copper wire, but if so, it could certainly eat through any potting wax or lacquer. So
if the guard was somehow responsible for "toasting" Ed's pickups -- and that's a big if -- potting wouldn't have helped. This is all assuming that there was actually a problem with his pickups other than that they aren't high output.
Moisture and acid sweat can corrode and short pickup wire. In general, those are more likely causes.
While I can't say for certain what the degassing from pickguards will and won't eat through, I can say the pickguards on 68/ early 69 Telecaster basses are known to commonly degass. So commonly that there are very few of them around with the original guard. I think they changed the material during 1969. The story goes that the corrosive gasses attacked frets and pickups mainly. There are very few of these early Telecaster Basses around with the original pickup and those that do have often been rewound. Original pickup, even those rewound, have fetched ridiculously high prices.
Here's a pic of my early 69 Tele showing the effects of the degassing- the body finish (nitro) was unaffected (take my word- I am not going to take the guard off). You can see discolouration of the poly finish around the frets. 1969 was transitional with some basses finished in poly and others in nitro and some a "patch work". Mine was nitro on the body, neck and headstock- poly on the fretboard. The truss road nut shows some surface corrosion. I can't see any affect on the wood.
The pickguard is not original- it is a fairly old, though- 3 ply bevelled. The original pickup is long gone. I finally settled on a SD Quarter Pounder after being disappointed with the SD Antiquity II- looked the goods but sounded crap IMO. I was told by a guy who owned it for a long time before I got it (about ten years ago) that it was refurbished in the 70s after the pickguard did it's trick and killed the original pickup.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/5ow0fc.jpg)
Here's a shot of the whole bass, just for the sake of it.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/23tl1ky.jpg)
They accepted my offer of $1500 Aus, so I'll go in and have a look under the pick guard to see if all the bits are intact.
What do you guys think?
Quote from: pjm on November 20, 2015, 06:12:34 PM
They accepted my offer of $1500 Aus, so I'll go in and have a look under the pick guard to see if all the bits are intact.
What do you guys think?
Good luck! Check out the neck as you would for any bass. Get them to take the truss cover off and demonstrate that the truss works. Also check that the joint where the neck attaches to the body is solid- you would expect some surface cracking in the nitro. Check that the headstock is solid- I have seen where the side laminations have come off. Check that there has been no break or structural crack around where the neck joins the headstock. Check that there is a serial number- it can be faint in some years.Here's what it should look like inside.
Oh and be sure to let us know and post pics if you buy it. Ebony Rippers are cool.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/x55p8n.jpg)
Quote from: veebass on November 20, 2015, 05:58:42 PM
While I can't say for certain what the degassing from pickguards will and won't eat through, I can say the pickguards on 68/ early 69 Telecaster basses are known to commonly degass. So commonly that there are very few of them around with the original guard. I think they changed the material during 1969. The story goes that the corrosive gasses attacked frets and pickups mainly. There are very few of these early Telecaster Basses around with the original pickup and those that do have often been rewound. Original pickup, even those rewound, have fetched ridiculously high prices.
Here's a pic of my early 69 Tele showing the effects of the degassing- the body finish (nitro) was unaffected (take my word- I am not going to take the guard off). You can see discolouration of the poly finish around the frets. 1969 was transitional with some basses finished in poly and others in nitro and some a "patch work". Mine was nitro on the body, neck and headstock- poly on the fretboard. The truss road nut shows some surface corrosion. I can't see any affect on the wood.
The pickguard is not original- it is a fairly old, though- 3 ply bevelled. The original pickup is long gone. I finally settled on a SD Quarter Pounder after being disappointed with the SD Antiquity II- looked the goods but sounded crap IMO. I was told by a guy who owned it for a long time before I got it (about ten years ago) that it was refurbished in the 70s after the pickguard did it's trick and killed the original pickup.
Tele bass pickups were wax potted. So if the pickup on your Tele Bass was killed by the pickguard off-gassing, that would prove that lack of potting wasn't to blame for whatever problems Ed's Ripper pickups had.
Quote from: Dave W on November 21, 2015, 11:44:12 PM
Tele bass pickups were wax potted. So if the pickup on your Tele Bass was killed by the pickguard off-gassing, that would prove that lack of potting wasn't to blame for whatever problems Ed's Ripper pickups had.
Yes, I thought that was unlikely. Telecaster Bass pickups commonly died and the general view is that this was due to degassing. My Ripper pickup died long after the original pickguard had gone- it had a WD on it when I bought it years ago. I have since put a genuine but later Ripper guard on it.
Well, did you buy it?
Not yet, I'm waiting on finances.
Couple of pics.
I think it may have had a headstock repair because the thick layer of paint over the serial number also further down the neck there's two layers of black paint wearing away?? I don't know maybe that's just how it was sprayed??
If it is a headstock repair it seem to be a good job.
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%201%208_zpsznzjfm2y.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%201%208_zpsznzjfm2y.jpg.html)
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%202%209_zpsa42qvkia.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%202%209_zpsa42qvkia.jpg.html)
That looks to be a decent chunk out of the fret board.
The serials can be a bit indistinct, but if you can see evidence of a repair, you might want to consider how much you are prepared to pay. Just saying.
Quote from: veebass on November 25, 2015, 04:38:23 PM
That looks to be a decent chunk out of the fret board.
The serials can be a bit indistinct, but if you can see evidence of a repair, you might want to consider how much you are prepared to pay. Just saying.
I agree. That doesn't look good.
I showed the pic to my local luthier and he thinks it could have chipped off when the nut was removed. He suggested making an epoxy/ebony dust mix to fill it in with.
I'm hoping to pick this up today. :)
Quote from: pjm on November 26, 2015, 01:58:23 PM
I showed the pic to my local luthier and he thinks it could have chipped off when the nut was removed. He suggested making an epoxy/ebony dust mix to fill it in with.
I'm hoping to pick this up today. :)
Looking forward to the pics!
I got it. It's awesome however it smells like beer and cigarettes ;)
The back of the neck is really sticky, any DIY remedies?
Warm soap water.
Sounds like it will be a good player. I would think beer and cigarette smell means someone loved and gigged it. I always mistrust closet queens.
How is the neck profile on the II compared with the originals? Nut width?
Quote from: patman on November 27, 2015, 10:40:29 AM
Sounds like it will be a good player. I would think beer and cigarette smell means someone loved and gigged it. I always mistrust closet queens.
I agree- the best playing basses that I bought second hand had seen considerable action before me.
Quote from: veebass on November 27, 2015, 04:03:40 PM
I agree- the best playing basses that I bought second hand had seen considerable action before me.
Not many can top Uwe's EB-0L for prior action. One bullet wound to its neck.
Quote from: copacetic on November 27, 2015, 03:56:15 PM
How is the neck profile on the II compared with the originals? Nut width?
A bit less of everything, but ever so slightly. Nut width on the Ripper II is 1 1/2", my late production 81 Ripper has between 1/16 and 2/16 more width and is a bit phatter in the neck. No substantial difference. A Ripper II still feels like a Ripper, it just has better pups.
So an update on the ripper.
It's been in for repairs,
1. New nut
2. Chip in fret board fill with ebony dust concoction
3. Bridge pickup rewound with vintage spec'd wire
4. New pick guard
5. Replaced the 4 way rotary with a 3 way selector ala Les Paul, neck/both/bridge
The 4 way was not salvageable so the 3 way will be temporary.
So in the mean time I'm on the hunt for a 4 way rotary. Anybody know were i can source a decent replacement and a gig bag that fits would be good too.
cheers
Stick to the three way toggle, it makes much better sense. The original rotary thingy doesn't offer an "unmolested neck pup by itself"-mode and that is one of the best sounds available from the Ripper. All those filtered extra sounds are not practical in band usage.
Quote from: uwe on January 20, 2016, 06:11:17 AM
Stick to the three way toggle, it makes much better sense. The original rotary thingy doesn't offer an "unmolested neck pup by itself"-mode and that is one of the best sounds available from the Ripper. All those filtered extra sounds are not practical in band usage.
Nothing stopping you wiring a 4 way rotary to give that option, I did it on mine. That way I get the two best (IMHO) sounds - neck soloed and both in series, in phase.
True (I did on one of mine too otherwise I wouldn't know), but a toggle switch is quicker live, more intuitive/foolproof and can take more of a beating.
Quote from: uwe on January 20, 2016, 06:11:17 AM
Stick to the three way toggle, it makes much better sense. The original rotary thingy doesn't offer an "unmolested neck pup by itself"-mode and that is one of the best sounds available from the Ripper. All those filtered extra sounds are not practical in band usage.
That's exactly what the repair guy said, easy to change pickup settings live and he thinks 1 & 3 sound too similar to warrant the 4 position.
For my '73 I found a new Mallory replacement switch and try as he might my luthier couldn't get it to work. Luckily I found a real nice original on eBay and him wire it so I could use either pickup (which are the Seymour Duncan replacements) independently.
It worked out well and it's quite the bass now
Good luck with yours!
Quote from: pjm on January 19, 2016, 08:50:18 PM
So an update on the ripper.
It's been in for repairs,
1. New nut
2. Chip in fret board fill with ebony dust concoction
3. Bridge pickup rewound with vintage spec'd wire
4. New pick guard
5. Replaced the 4 way rotary with a 3 way selector ala Les Paul, neck/both/bridge
The 4 way was not salvageable so the 3 way will be temporary.
So in the mean time I'm on the hunt for a 4 way rotary. Anybody know were i can source a decent replacement and a gig bag that fits would be good too.
cheers
Must post pics when she is all done.
Who is doing the rewind?
I was very happy with the job Seymour Duncan did rewinding the neck pickup in my Ripper- came out a little cheaper than buying one of their replacements- even with the two way shipping costs between Australia and the US, but that was when our $ was a bit higher.
Repair is complete.
Before
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%203%205_zps2qgxqvtf.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%203%205_zps2qgxqvtf.jpg.html)
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%202%2011_zpst8p5prhq.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%202%2011_zpst8p5prhq.jpg.html)
And finished
Plays great and the 3 settings are all I'll need, probably wont even use the bridge soloed setting.
It fits in an Epiphone JC case although It'll need some padding on the bottom and a little around the sides.
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%201%2011_zpsiwg6mvri.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%201%2011_zpsiwg6mvri.jpg.html)(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%202%2012_zpsbosamlg8.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%202%2012_zpsbosamlg8.jpg.html)
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%203%206_zpssicxk3sm.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%203%206_zpssicxk3sm.jpg.html)
Glad to see that you brought it back to play-ability! I really like the look of these so would love to get to try one out some day.
Quote from: pjm on January 21, 2016, 09:26:26 PM
Repair is complete.
Before
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%203%205_zps2qgxqvtf.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%203%205_zps2qgxqvtf.jpg.html)
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%202%2011_zpst8p5prhq.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%202%2011_zpst8p5prhq.jpg.html)
And finished
Plays great and the 3 settings are all I'll need, probably wont even use the bridge soloed setting.
It fits in an Epiphone JC case although It'll need some padding on the bottom and a little around the sides.
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%201%2011_zpsiwg6mvri.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%201%2011_zpsiwg6mvri.jpg.html)(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%202%2012_zpsbosamlg8.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%202%2012_zpsbosamlg8.jpg.html)
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/mavbass/photo%203%206_zpssicxk3sm.jpg) (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/mavbass/media/photo%203%206_zpssicxk3sm.jpg.html)
Congratulations! Looks great.
Very cool. Nice repair on the fingerboard. How does something like that even HAPPEN? Had to be a freak accident, like it fell just right or something.
That looks really cool
I like the toggle on it! Fretboard repair is immaculate.
Quote from: pjm on November 26, 2015, 01:58:23 PM
He suggested making an epoxy/ebony dust mix to fill it in with.
Yep - I've done that before. Try to use as much ebony dust in the mix ratio as possible. Regular wood glue should also be fine and hard enough. You can also add a few dropps of black stain. Looks like the chip is in between strings vs right under some of them so it shouldn't be a big deal once filled - doesn'ty have to take direct pressure so much a a glancing blow from a bend.
PLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEEEEEEASE post pictures!
I'm thinking of putting some flat wounds on, anyone wish to share there experiences with there Rippers with flats. What brand worked best. I looking for high out put with punchy midrange.
I have an old set of TIs on my Ripper. I don't know if they are what you are looking for but I find they are really nice for our amplified acoustic covers set. A lovely warm tone on first Varitone position- series in phase.