The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: Pilgrim on July 23, 2008, 08:24:06 AM
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Yesterday I won an Ebay auction for something I've been wanting for a long time - a Mosrite copy. Most copies are Univox, which I like, but this one is an "Aria Diamond", which is a totally new one on me. it's a project that will need pickups and other pieces as well as a refin, but I'm excited at the prospect.
The headstock is natural finish, and I would rather not mess with it. I'd like to leave the original decal intact. The body wood looks pretty decent, so I may go with a natural finish. Natural would look good with the pickguard material. Any opinions? And does anyone know more about the Aria Diamond basses???
Photos follow.....
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Ariafullfront.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Ariabodyfront.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Ariabodyback.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Ariaheadstock.jpg)
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Cool bass and a great project. A sunburst would look cool and retro on it.
A 50's color like Sea Foam green would also be cool.
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Very cool Al. You and I really do have similar tastes. I've often been temped by the Mosrite clones as a possible project. I think these basses look cool in sunburst or something Fenderish from the 60s. Seafoam is good and I particularly like Vintage white and Cardinal Red.
Keep us posted!
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Check the EB0 Jr. thread for pick ups!
Nice bass!
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Dang - those Eastwood P90 bass pickups in that thread look like really good candidates! The T-bird pickups are also rather intriguing - they'd give a chromey look to a Hi-Flyer that would be really unusual.
I even have a pair of early 70's Lyle bass pickups sitting on my bench, but I'm not sure whether they'll fit either....yet. They might even sit too high for a solid-body, since they were made for a hollowbody.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P1290001.jpg).
These have been sitting on my bench for a couple of years - I'd need new trim rings but at least I have the originals (heavily painted) to serve as templates. I have a single-pickup Lyle hollowbody sitting that's waiting for a pickup, but I have a Gretsch pickup I've been too lazy to install so far.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/Lyleonstand.jpg)
But I'll need to wait for the Aria to arrive so that I can measure the cavities. I'm really not eager to enlarge them unless I have to.
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Those white pups could fit if you do a rout for them.
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Michael Wright wrote an extensive article on Aria for Vintage Guitar magazine in the 90s. IIRC it was in several parts. Unfortunately there's no index and I have stacks of back issues but I'll look in the next few days.
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LOL I have been looking for a Hi-flyer to round out my "early years" bass collection. I had a black one back around '73 or so. I paid 30 bucks for it and rode it home on my bike.......................with no case. LOL. Great little bass, they look cool in black or white. Cool project.
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Okay, I was lucky and found the articles right away. from Nov. and Dec. 1996. What you have is in the Nov. 1996 issue.
It looks like what you have is an Aria Diamond 1720 bass . It appears to be an early one. In 1966 Mr. Arai introduced electrics made by him in existing factories he had bought. The earliest ones can be found under the Arai Diamond or Aria Diamond names, from the same time period. The 1720 was introduced in 1968. The Diamond line was around in the catalogs as late as 1974 but by 1970 they don't seem to have the Diamond name on the headstock. So my guess is 1968-69.
Wright mentions that the Strat copies of 1968 had solid maple bodies.He doesn't mention the body wood in the paragraph on the Mosrite guitar and bass copies, but if what you bought turns out to be close grained, it could very well be a maple species.
This is the same bass later imported by Merson under the Univox Hi-Flyer name.
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(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P1290001.jpg).
These have been sitting on my bench for a couple of years - I'd need new trim rings but at least I have the originals (heavily painted) to serve as templates. I have a single-pickup Lyle hollowbody sitting that's waiting for a pickup, but I have a Gretsch pickup I've been too lazy to install so far.
those almost look like DeArmond Turbojet (sp?) pickups
http://www.curtisnovak.com/pickups/repairs/TurboJet-Bass/
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It looks like what you have is an Aria Diamond 1720 bass . It appears to be an early one. In 1966 Mr. Arai introduced electrics made by him in existing factories he had bought. The earliest ones can be found under the Arai Diamond or Aria Diamond names, from the same time period. The 1720 was introduced in 1968. The Diamond line was around in the catalogs as late as 1974 but by 1970 they don't seem to have the Diamond name on the headstock. So my guess is 1968-69.
Wright mentions that the Strat copies of 1968 had solid maple bodies.He doesn't mention the body wood in the paragraph on the Mosrite guitar and bass copies, but if what you bought turns out to be close grained, it could very well be a maple species.
This is the same bass later imported by Merson under the Univox Hi-Flyer name.
Thanks Dave, this is really interesting, and I'm grateful for the model ID. Given the Matsumoku connection, it's not hard to believe that the line might have been converted from Aria to Univox. I did some surfing and with your ID, I found this page with pictures of the bass and the companion guitar: http://www.matsumoku.org/models/aria/solid/mos/17xx.html
This web page shows the production dates from 1968-71. Both bass and guitar were available in Sunburst, Black & White...and it appears that the original pickups would have been black-face with black trim rings.
I love knowing this kind of stuff.
those almost look like DeArmond Turbojet (sp?) pickups
http://www.curtisnovak.com/pickups/repairs/TurboJet-Bass/
Exactly right! I've looked at those DeArmond PUs at the Angela website. I learned more about them from the Novak site. I wonder if there's a DeArmond/Mastumoku connection? From watching numerous Ebay auctions and doing a bit of digging, I've observed that the same pickups were used in Lyle, Univox and Epiphone hollowbodies from that same 70's time period - which makes sense, as all built in the same factory. I've clearly seen the same pickups in Univox, Lyle and Epi guitars and in basses from those lines.
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Those great threads with lots of info is why I am here at the Outpost!
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There was no ownership connection between DeArmond/Rowe and Japanese manufactuers. They sold OEM pickups to many different manufacturers in the US, Europe and Japan over the years (for example, the Fender Coronado and Harmony H22 had DeArmonds). They also were the first company to offer an aftermarket pickup, back in the 1930s. Guild eventually bought the company and stopped selling the pickups separately. After Fender bought Guild they revived the name.
On a different note, there were never any DeArmond guitars until after Fender bought Guild and decided to use the name on a Korean import line with Guild styling. When they dropped the line (except for the Ashbory) because of low sales, some people on various forums started trashing Fender for running the guitar line into the ground... as if it was something they inherited from Guild. Ignorance gets multiplied online.
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Now that I look again at the Aria photos at: http://www.matsumoku.org/models/aria/solid/mos/17xx.html I'm curious as to what color my bass started. The Sunburst bass shown in the photo has a white PG, and the one on the bass I have coming appears to be kind of a goldish pearloid (see photos at start of thread). If there were only three colors available, I'm thinking that would most likely have been on a black bass.
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Maybe the neck pocket will tell.
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AH!!!!
Wisdom is yours, Dr. Bassman!
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OK, the Aria is here...no new shots yet, but I'll get that done soon.
Report: The neck is in generally good condition, but the fretboard is loose from the neck on the top five frets. This isn't any big problem, as there is no damage and the fretboard can easily be glued back in place. SUGGESTIONS as to what glue to use? Super glue would be easy, but I'm tempted to get some hide glue from Stew-Mac in case I ever need to pull the fretboard. Sometimes permanent adhesives are the wrong thing to use.
The rosewood is good and the frets have enough wear to show some notches on the bottom couple of frets, but I don't think they're badly worn. The nut is missing - no biggie.
Wood on the body is in good shape, no major gouges or dings, so it's definitely in shape to be refinished in natural or in a solid color. I'm still temped to go natural to match the headstock.
Original color is questionable. The neck pocket and pickup cavities have yellow paint in them, and it looks more like re-spray than original sunburst finish. I'll look at it some more.
Pots and jack are present, two switches of unknown function are present (probably on/off for each pickup), and the pickguard has no cracks or damage, which is very nice.
Pix coming as soon as I can get 'em up.
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Sounds great Al, looking forward to it. Use simple Titebond glue, it's forgiving and can be steamed off in the future if ever needed. If you don't have one, get a glue syringe and wedge the crack open enough to get glue all the way down to the end of the opening. When you're running glue into the crack, mount the neck with the head straight down, gravity is a great helper!
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Plus one on the Doctors' suggestion of Titebond, plenty strong and reversable. Use the original (red label/cap) they make a Titebond II & III but the original formula is the best for this situation, and most other guitar/bass repairs.
I've also been using LMI instrument makers white glue for a few projects, very strong but it sets up very quickly. It also dries very hard, to the point of being a bit tricky when sanding a glue joint, the wood seems to "sand down faster than the seam itself. Maybe all wood glues do this but I've only noticed it with the LMI stuff.
Sorry to get off topic with an adhesive discussion, congrats on a really cool bass (it was on my watch list too) looking forward to seeing its' restoration.
S.
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Photos are in...the top one shows the fretboard separation - look for the penknife wedging it open.
Fretboard separation:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P7310636.jpg)
Fret wear and missing nut:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P7310635.jpg)
Body (note yellow paint in pickup cavities):
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P7310633.jpg)
Body:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P7310634.jpg)
Back:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P7310638.jpg)
Pickguard:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P7310640.jpg)
CU of pickguard showing cool gold pearloid color:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P7310639.jpg)
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Cleveland Indians?? ??? thats a way cool project.
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If the truss rod appears to be working when you have the fretboard clamped down, it shouldn't be a major operation.
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Lots of potential there Al. I only use th original Titebond for my guitar work, I agree that you don't need the II or II stuff. Dave's right on regarding the truss rod too.
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Cleveland Indians?? ??? thats a way cool project.
Chief WAHOO!
One of the oldest racist American sports symbols!
I've been to the Wigwam club!
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Chief Wigwam!
One of the oldest racist American sports symbols!
I've been to the Wigwam club!
I don't know anything about the Wigwam club, but I'm pretty sure it's Chief Wahoo.
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OK, let's not get off track and stray into political turf in Al's thread. It's all about the bass!
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Actually, I'm more of a Mariners fan. And that's a LONELY place to be this year, currently 27 games back in their division. By far the worst record in MLB. (Sigh....)
My daughters said I ought to leave the Chief sticker on the bass when I refin'd it because it added some "atmosphere", but nope - he's going on a LONG sabbatic. The sticker would clash with the bass - unless I was a hard-core relic fan, in which case I'd bolt the thing together, drop in pickups and a jack, and play it. Fortunately that's not me.
I really haven't come to any decision about color for the body. Whatever I do will be compatible with the headstock, as I definitely don't want to refin it and destroy the original Aria Diamond decal.
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Good move. I'm not a fan of stickers on basses anyway, but if you're refinishing, no need to save someone else's.
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Yeah, I've never been a sticker fan on basses. Hey, if you could bleach out the top so it isn't as discolored as it looks now, a trans red or orange would be really cool!
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Trans red......Orange.....hmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Would look nice with the pickguard......could tint clear lacquer and spray......
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Yes!!
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+ 1 on the orange!
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Hmmm. I have this small perceptual challenge. I spent 13 years at Texas A&M and was pretty well trained to reject the color BURNT orange...much too "t.u".
But I like Gretsch orange a lot!
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Hmmm. I have this small perceptual challenge. I spent 13 years at Texas A&M and was pretty well trained to reject the color BURNT orange...much too "t.u".
But I like Gretsch orange a lot!
That's understandable. My family has a strong aversion to scarlet & gray!
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Hmmm. I have this small perceptual challenge. I spent 13 years at Texas A&M and was pretty well trained to reject the color BURNT orange...much too "t.u".
But I like Gretsch orange a lot!
And you left the stimulating intellectual climate in Bryan/CollegeStation? :P
I suggest antique white. The last Mosrite I played was an aged white refin and it looked great.
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All of this orange talk has me thinking that I might do my Starfire III in Gretsch trans orange. You guys give me such great ideas!
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That's understandable. My family has a strong aversion to scarlet & gray!
Careful, now. My alma mater, Washington State (see avatar) is CRIMSON and gray. Clearly not scarlet, oh indeedy not.
And yes, the intellectual/cultural aspect of College Station was a significant part of the reason for my change of scenery - although truth to tell, it was mostly cultural. College Station has a lot of bright, capable people, but culturally this child of the fairly informal Pacific Northwest didn't fit in very well. I asked too many questions and tried to change the status quo. Mea culpa.
AND - I'm having another brainstorm: Gibson Gold-Top would look GREAT on that Hi-Flyer body, and ReRanch has it in rattle cans. This photo was taken from ReRanch's website at: http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/goldtopgold.html
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/reranchstore_2011_797648.jpg)
Question is, would I paint just the top this color, the whole thing? That route around the top on the Hi-flyer makes it a bit problematic to declare where the top ends. It might also be a trick to get the demarcation line right between top and back if I didn't just paint the whole thing gold - ala Dick Dale - which is a possibility.
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how about the raised top gold and the rest black, with a burst type fade where they meet?
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well, I'd paint the entire thing Gold. I think it would look super that way.
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Thought the Goldtop is an icon, I always liked the Coppertops better.
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I love this gold look, which os supposed to be beige color (poly mist?) but yellowed clear makes it gold???
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/fbird65g.jpg)
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There was a heather poly that was sort of beige, but the one in that pic is golden mist poly.
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I know people with all gold Les Pauls.
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I have a hollow body that is just bad enough to need an opaque finish and I'm thinking gold top or entire body would be cool.
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I'm mentally flipping (you knew that) back and forth between orange and gold top.
The orange would require a custom mix - and I won't deny that the rattle can approach has great appeal. No mixing, just prep, buy, shoot, and finish.
BTW...does anyone know of a source for pickups that would match the original Hi Flyer / Aria pickup cavity dimensions? I checked some other threads and although there was one expired Ebay auction, I haven't found anything else yet.
DiMarzio makes some which are the same rectangular layout, and I'm checking specs on Schaller Bassbuckers. A BGRA review of the Hi-flyer says the Schallers have the right pickup spacing - I see they come in black or cream color for about $70 each. Schaller puts a good spec sheet online so I'll be able to measure the cavities tonight.
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I'll be darned. I just checked the link in the EB0 Junior thread and the gent who sold the Eastwood P-90 pickups in that auction has some new ones up:
Link fixed: http://cgi.ebay.com/Eastwood-P-90-Bass-Pickup-Mosrite-NEW-IN-BOX!!!_W0QQitemZ260271355611QQcmdZViewItem?IMSfp=TL0808061443r37094 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Eastwood-P-90-Bass-Pickup-Mosrite-NEW-IN-BOX!!!_W0QQitemZ260271355611QQcmdZViewItem?IMSfp=TL0808061443r37094)
What do you think????? The price is sure right. Pickups in the $30 range would be pretty cool.
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Your auction link isn't working. Try this (http://cgi.ebay.com/Eastwood-P-90-Bass-Pickup-Mosrite-NEW-IN-BOX!!!_W0QQitemZ260271355611QQcmdZViewItem?IMSfp=TL0808061443r37094).
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Looks like just the thing ! I'd snap 'em up !
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Hey, Reranch makes Gretsch trans orange in rattle cans! I've use it myself, good stuff!
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I'm swapping email with the gent who sells those Eastwood pickups now....visually they seem like a match for the originals. I'm trying to sort out whether they fit the routs...they may be about 1/4" wider. But he will sell two for under $50, and that's REALLY tempting.
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Hey, what's a 1/4"? Nothing a router couldn't manage. I think they look perfect for it.
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I sent a message and hopefully I'll be able to buy them. Can't pass up the deal.
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I sent a message and hopefully I'll be able to buy them. Can't pass up the deal.
Didn't I see them online at eBay for $29.95 or something? Or was I looking at something different?
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Yes, there are two on Ebay - same seller. If he doesn't get back to me I'll just go after the ones he has at auction.
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I must be holding my mouth right. Instead of paying the seller $40 for a pair of those pickups, I won both auctions - for a total of slightly less than $40.
The auction says they're Seymour-Duncan pickups, and after searching the S-D site I think I found them under Pickups > Custom Shop > Specialized > Duncan-Mosrite for Bass. However, the ones on the S-D site have philips screw head slots on the pickup poles, and it doesn't appear that the ones in the auction do.
S-D page:
http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/custom-shop/specialized-1/duncanmosrite_f_1/
Auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=380052768013&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=025
If the retail is indeed $160 per pickup as the S-D web page says, I did very well. Now I'm going to have to get the rest of the pieces and get to work on this bass!!
And Dr. Bassman, can you confirm a link to the ReRanch Gretsch orange in rattle cans? I think this might be it:
http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/reranchorange.html
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These are not SD Custom Shop pickups. The auction header says it's an Eastwood pickup and the seller is either connected to Eastwood Guitars or actually is Eastwood. AFAIK their products are Korean imports. NTTAWWT.
SD does have his Korean-made "Duncan Design" line made for OEM imports, these could be made by the same company.
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Great deal on the pups even if they are Korean. yes, that's the trans orange I've used before.
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Thanks guys, that makes sense. Interesting combination of terms in those auctions - both Eastwood and Seymour-Duncan are mentioned, so who knows??
I haven't heard much about the new Eastwood guitars yet, so I don't know quite what to expect from the pickups. I do know the Eastwoods aren't cheap, so perhaps it's reasonable to assume the pickups aren't bad either. As long as they fit and give me decent sound, I'll be happy. The price is so right that it would seem foolish not to try them..but I darn sure don't want to do much modification to the bass in the process. Adding 1/4" of room seems manageable without creating a problematic mod. I can't say that I'm especially choosy about pickups anyway.
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Here's an Eastwood thread from March that might interest you: http://bassoutpost.com/index.php?topic=285.0
I see no reason for you to be concerned about the pickups. You'll either like the tone or you won't, and if you don't, then it's not like you've invested a lot. Eastwood seems to be better regarded today than Aria and Univox were back in the 60s and 70s.
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You're right, the Japanese brands weren't highly regarded back in the 60's and 70's.
Thanks for the thread link - the EEB he played in one linked post sounded pretty darn good to me.
Now I have to decide between Gold Top and ReRanch Orange........
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You're right, the Japanese brands weren't highly regarded back in the 60's and 70's.
Thanks for the thread link - the EEB he played in one linked post sounded pretty darn good to me.
Now I have to decide between Gold Top and ReRanch Orange........
Two choices you can't go wrong with!
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Go for the gold (top). 8)
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OK, pickups are here - and I'm sure they were direct from the Eastwood Company. That means the Ebay seller Yarddoggolfer is one of the guys at Eastwood.
The pickups came with a small Eastwood catalog enclosed in the box:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P8190742.jpg)
And they clearly are made for the Hi-Flyer:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P8190743.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P8190744.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P8190748.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P8190749.jpg)
These are the style of pickup that mounts to the trim ring, rather than to the body of the bass. In the last photo you can see that the pickup is recessed below the trim ring because it's not mounted.
This is definitely getting more interesting!
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Excellent. If I'm seeing things right, looks like you won't have to rout.
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That's right! These pickups are an absolute drop-in, and at first glance it appears that even the screw holes on the trim rings line up with the original screw holes. Evidently Eastwood REALLY stayed with the original Hi-Flyer dimensions and layout. I thought that the trim rings would overlap the pickguard and would have to be trimmed subtly, but now I'm not sure even that will be necessary. I may have really come out well on this. I do note that the trim rings sit about 1/4" above the body, and the pickup will have to be that high to be level with the rings. I haven't mounted the neck and strung it yet (thought I'd refin first), so I'm not sure what the pickup-to-string distance will be, but that's not likely to be a problem. I have a Shopsmith with a big rotary sanding wheel, so if I needed to reduce the pickup height, I could sand the trim rings from the bottom and reduce their height.
Thanks for the Shopsmith, Dad! http://www.shopsmith.com/ (http://www.shopsmith.com/) (He bought his at Carr Hardware in Ames Iowa in 1954 and it's still running strong....and you can still buy any part you need for it.)
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If those are plastic rings, I sure wouldn't sand them with the power on.
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Well, yes, you make a good point.
"Meltiness" is bad for trim rings. I suppose I COULD use something other than the Tim Taylor "more power" approach if needed.
grumble grumble...ruin alla my fun...... :P
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You can still use the Shopsmith, just rub the rings against the sanding disc while it's stationary. If anybody asks what speed you used, just tell 'em you can't remember exactly but it was at the lower end of the variable speed dial. ;)
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True!
But in the absence of "more power", I think I'd use another approach which worked really well when making an ABG saddle - glue sandpaper with grit upwards on a slab of marble, and rub the material back and forth across it. Provides a nice stable surface and unlike the Shopsmith, I wouldn't have to hold the drum still.
And I'd have one hand free for beer. Very important for philosophical and lubrication reasons.
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Ohhhhhhhhh, beer and sanders....I could tell you some stories about that. Let me show the scar on top of my left hand.... ;D
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OK, pickups are here - and I'm sure they were direct from the Eastwood Company. That means the Ebay seller Yarddoggolfer is one of the guys at Eastwood.
That's Mike Robinson. He started Eastwood Guitars. His website is http://www.myrareguitars.com/.
Nice guy. I've dealt with him a few times.
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That looks super, I want a Hiflyer sooooooooooooooo bad !
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Me too!!!
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That's Mike Robinson. He started Eastwood Guitars. His website is http://www.myrareguitars.com/.
Nice guy. I've dealt with him a few times.
YES! That was the name on the shipping label. All I can figure is that they end up with some extra pickups and other parts at times - and I'm expecting pretty good things from those pickups. I'm still impressed with what a great deal he gave me.
I agree with you guys - I have had a jones for a Hi-Flyer for a couple of years, and I just didn't feel like passing this one up. My first complete rebuild project took a year, but this time I'm (a) more experienced, (b) smarter about what NOT to get into, and (c) more hyper about getting it done.
And I think I'm ordering some gold top paint today.
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And I think I'm ordering some gold top paint today.
Just do it!
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Oh yeah, golddddddddddddddddddd!!!
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I'm putting together a ReRanch order for next month (been an expensive month...)
Here's what I'm thinking:
- 1 small can oil-based grain filler
- 2 spray cans of Gold Top to do the entire body
- 2 cans nitro lacquer for finishing coats
The ReRanch site recommends a white undercoat, but says that B.I.N.s white pigmented varnish or Kilz sealers available in spray cans are OK to use, so I'll get those locally. It also recommends alternating lacquer and grain filler under the white - so I think I'll need at least two cans of the clear. See application directions here: http://www.reranch.com/goldtop.htm
Am I missing anything?
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I'm putting together a ReRanch order for next month (been an expensive month...)
Here's what I'm thinking:
- 1 small can oil-based grain filler
- 2 spray cans of Gold Top to do the entire body
- 2 cans nitro lacquer for finishing coats
The ReRanch site recommends a white undercoat, but says that B.I.N.s white pigmented varnish or Kilz sealers available in spray cans are OK to use, so I'll get those locally. It also recommends alternating lacquer and grain filler under the white - so I think I'll need at least two cans of the clear. See; http://www.reranch.com/goldtop.htm
Am I missing anything?
Looks good Al. Mahogany always needs filling. Plan on 2-3 steps to be sure. I just spray a light coat of sand & sealer first, then do my grain fills, one on top of the other. Or, just skip the S&S and go right to grain filling. You really don't have to spray between grain fills., but everyone has a favorite method for this step!
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So you put down a sealing coat first, then do multiple grain fills as needed - without sealing in between each. That sounds easy enough. The ReRanch site recommends using the clear nitro as an initial sealer coat and letting it soak in overnight...seems like the same concept.
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Yep, Reranch has a good system, it's how I learned it.
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"The ReRanch site recommends using the clear nitro as an initial sealer coat and letting it soak in overnight...seems like the same concept."
Using the sealer coat before filling will prevent the filler from staining the wood, not really an issue if you're doing an opaque top coat. Be sure to seal the filler before your primer and color coats.
Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out!
Cheers,
S.
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"The ReRanch site recommends using the clear nitro as an initial sealer coat and letting it soak in overnight...seems like the same concept."
Using the sealer coat before filling will prevent the filler from staining the wood, not really an issue if you're doing an opaque top coat. Be sure to seal the filler before your primer and color coats.
Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out!
Cheers,
S.
A light sealer coat before filling also helps fill the pores deep down initially. I also do a S&S coat or two before applying color or rans coats.
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Hey Al, check these out! I found them on the Mosrite forum and thought of you. This was a custom bass made by Mosrite..............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Mosrite/DSC03091a.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Mosrite/DSC03088.jpg)
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That's beautiful! Looks like they used Fender-style tuners and offset them a bit to provide room. Also looks like a single PU unless they hid one under the bridge cover - but I don't think it would fit, and the placement wouldn't match any of their other basses in that style.
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Yep, it's a beauty. I doubt the tuners are original, they're probably a replacement for the old duck feet tuners. A lot of people didn't like those, but now they are collector's items!!! I love the one pup Mosrites, I think they look really sleek and clean.
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Yeah they look great but with their guitar 25.5 scale length and only that neck pickup, they sound really rubbery and farty.
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But they don't have a 25.5" scale length. The whole point of Bill's successful protest over the one Andy Moseley sold him was that it wasn't an actual production model. It was something he put together from his
"vintage" used parts bin.
Real Mosrite basses were 30" scale. So were real Univox Ho-Flyer basses.
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But they don't have a 25.5" scale length. The whole point of Bill's successful protest over the one Andy Moseley sold him was that it wasn't an actual production model. It was something he put together from his "vintage" used parts bin.
Real Mosrite basses were 30" scale. So were real Univox Ho-Flyer basses.
Dave's correct!