i have been trying for over two years to get a person to build for me. now it is happening except for one small detail. which way do i want the boards to top the build?
choice 2:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/stuff003.jpg)
or choice 1:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/stuff005.jpg)
i think i have made a choice then i turn the boards over and damn...i dunno!
My wife and I agree: choice 2.
Number one is more symmetrical, gets my vote.
Quote from: dadagoboi on September 17, 2010, 04:56:38 AM
Number one is more symmetrical, gets my vote.
+1. I like the symmetry.
Go to the ReRanch forum and look at posts from member named "dougk" and you'll see some of the finest splatted top guitars ever built IMHO.
He's a custom builder and has done a ton of splatted maple guitars and posted several different threads about them: http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=37759
I kinda like choice 2, but you'll have to live with it, so make yourself happy!
Basically you're dealing with two dimensional design here. You can do it like most of us learned to play bass, seat of the pants. Or you can steal some stuff from the pros (come to think of it...) and modify it to your own tastes.
http://www.graphic-design-info.com/article_principles_of_design.php
i think some people may think choice 2 is choice 1 because of the order they are listed. ???
i like choice 2, the first picture.
Quote from: nofi on September 17, 2010, 08:39:04 AM
i think some people may think choice 2 is choice 1 because of the order they are listed. ???
i like choice 2, the first picture.
Thanks for pointing that out! #2 top for me.
well, 2 it is then. thank you all for your help in making my choice. symmetry in nature is often percieved as beautiful. i have to get this out to the builder soon and i am sure the builder will reveal who they are and post pictures as the work progresses but i am in no hurry for completion as planning is a lot of fun.
i had to postpone another build with another person because of my broken foot...my foot and calf muscles atrophied a bit while in the cast for 8 weeks and i had a small disaster in my storage facility. three necks and one box of pickups seem to be misplaced. it will be difficult to work with my left foot for a little while and the lost parts are needed for the other build, but it will happen.
Quote from: nofi on September 17, 2010, 08:39:04 AM
i think some people may think choice 2 is choice 1 because of the order they are listed. ???
i like choice 2, the first picture.
it is just the order i posted the images from photobucket.
Good luck with the foot! I've never broken a bone and can only imagine what it's like to have a cast and the resultant issues afterwards. Get well quickly!
Quote from: drbassman on September 17, 2010, 09:43:05 AM
Good luck with the foot! I've never broken a bone and can only imagine what it's like to have a cast and the resultant issues afterwards. Get well quickly!
thank you Dr.
this was officially my first diagnosed break. in retrospect i realize it was not my first break but i am pain free now as long as i do not overdo it and let this therapy part of recovery happen. i have not burnt any bridges with the other build artist/craftsman but am keeping a channel of communication open as the other build will prolly happen next year. i did not want to put if off any longer but it looks like a move to the Sacramento/Marysville area from little Pecos, TX might be on the horizon so priorities are what they are.
another note is one of my baby girls is having a baby girl. just found out the gender of the baby this morning and officially "it" becomes a she. her name is to be Colby and she is due to arrive about Oct 17th according to the stork schedule
on another side note: i recieved an email from Curtis Novak telling me his shop equipment had arrived and he is in the process of setting up his shop. no word on the state of the choke/filters as i am sure he has a backlog because of his move across the states.
I've broken a few things in my time... not all mine... :o
Good luck with the mending and for the new G/D...
Just another thought (and sorry if it causes a rethink) re the spalted blocks - they (appear to be) are not perfectly symetrical, which I presume is a trick of the image... what if they were spun, to produce a line through that carrys on, like a lightning bolt...?
What body shape are you aiming for, Bill...?
i bought a 20$ LP Ash body that needs sawn in half and reglued. the original glue seam is for crap and actually not glued on both ends. i also bought a 48" piece of Mahogany rather cheaply to make a skunk stripe when doweling and glueing it back together.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/bodies001.jpg)
a walnut thin to go between the top cap and the ash body
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/blackwalnutpieces.jpg)
a 20$ Epi neck that needs a bit of fixing and is going to become 32" scaled. i like these necks as they feel like a "J" and are a light neck.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/P1720252.jpg)
with a Dark Star DS2 trimmed in black, a black Schaller bridge and eventually a set of black Grover or Hipshot tuners and a bone nut, with a polished brass bridge cover/hand rest to go with the black trim
In 1966 I was hit by a car while on a motorcycle and almost lost my left leg...was in a cast for six months, with the foot, ankle and shin the last parts to be freed. Took months for that ankle to work well, and it never has quite fully regained full flex, although it's within a few degrees of it.
Hope your ankle movement returns much more quickly!!
You'll have to ease up on those mount'n trips Al & Mrs Al...!
That's some crazy project, Bill... 8)
We folks with cranky ankles get to do a "Chester" impersonation.....fortunately I'm well past that stage in recovery.
Which is getting to be a very, very outdated reference for those who don't have enough grey hair to have seen Dennis Weaver on Gunsmoke.
There's something in the back of my mind that Dennis Weaver's "Chester" limped to disguise the fact that James Arness had a genuine limp, or am I getting that mixed up with another western...?
i am not up on "Chester" but Dennis was from Joplin, MO ... my new as of 1964 home turf as are Linda Day George (married Christopher George of the "Rat Patrol" and she also was the female charactor in "Mission Impossible", and the home of Bob Cummings.
okay, today i sent the project to the luthier/builder. here it is before shipping. this is the one the spalted/ambrosia Maple cap is going on.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/stuff002.jpg)
as one can see, the body is splitting already from a poor glue joint (check out the tail end by where the bridge will be) it is also splitting on the other end. that will be remedied with a saw, some dowels and a reglue with a piece of Mahogany for a "skunk" stripe.
the body is primarily Hard Ash.
:popcorn:
OK, I'm the builder Sniper settled on. Hope he knows what he's doing!
Here's the layout I like with the maple he sent...............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3483.jpg)
this is going to be great to watch!
great choice of woods and that's an awesome layout.
Looking good! How wide is the center strip? How do the pups relate to it?
Doing this one in your spare time, eh Bill...? ;)
Quote from: dadagoboi on October 22, 2010, 02:39:23 PM
Looking good! How wide is the center strip? How do the pups relate to it?
The pup is a Dark Star and it's a little wider, which I think looks better. The strip is about 2.5".
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on October 22, 2010, 02:45:42 PM
Doing this one in your spare time, eh Bill...? ;)
Pleeeeze, I know, I know! I'm so buried, but this one is very straight forward, so it will get plenty of attention and Sniper promised he could wait 3-4 months. I'm shooting to beat that.....
Better than my records and I just refin... good luck for both Bill's ;)
Quote from: drbassman on October 22, 2010, 03:21:43 PM
Pleeeeze, I know, I know! I'm so buried, but this one is very straight forward, so it will get plenty of attention and Sniper promised he could wait 3-4 months. I'm shooting to beat that.....
i have all the confidence in the world in you Doc and that layout is better than the one i marked...wow, i had forgotten how beautiful that wood is.
i am going to name this one the "Colby Bass" after my new grand daughter.
i actually resigned myself to next spring before it is done.
That's gonna be a beautiful bass!
Very cool CW, she's beautiful! My kids aren't married yet, but I'm looking forward to grand kids some day!
Did I mention that spring doesn't come to Upstate NY till May??? :-[
as long as i don't have to pay extra for an extended "break in" period its cool.
Quote from: sniper dog on October 23, 2010, 10:30:59 AM
as long as i don't have to pay extra for an extended "break in" period its cool.
No sweat, I'll break her in for ya! :P
Update: clamps come off tonight on the top wood. Here's the basic layout. Neck will rest on the body at the 15th. fret, just as it did on its previous body. The bridge is in appropriate spot for a 32" scale. Pup placement is just approximate. The body will be chambered with a center piece running down the middle.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3496.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3497.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3498.jpg)
That's lookin cool!
Thanks! Sniper gave me some nice stuff to work with.
Ahh...
audience participation...
(:popcorn:)
now spring has been moved up to next week don't ya know! ;D ;D ;D
looking good Doc.
believe it or not, i had never done a layout when i had the parts here. i did do a partial when i traced the body shape on the Maple is all.
AND...i'm seriously diggin those body shapes you posted in the other thread.
my favorite finger picture:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/grand%20babies/CaliftripandMissouribabies395crop.jpg)
Colby Marie at 3 days old
Wow, she looks great there!
So, I was planing the back of the body down and you have an obvious dark streak that won't go away, even as I get down to 1" thickness.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3499.jpg)
I was wondering, what if I use your walnut as a cap on the back rather than under the maple? I think it would look really cool. Let me know what you think. It's your call!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3500.jpg)
walnut always look good...
go ahead and cap away as you wish. i think that is a great idea. it looks like you have found a great tracing that looks good grain wise. the skunk stripe idea was a solution to the body splitting on the original glue joint anyways.
did you get my email asking about the overall length, fitting the case and my left shoulder arthritis? (did any of it make sense ... sometimes i miss the mark with my descriptions)
Quote from: sniper dog on October 29, 2010, 10:29:03 AM
go ahead and cap away as you wish. i think that is a great idea. it looks like you have found a great tracing that looks good grain wise. the skunk stripe idea was a solution to the body splitting on the original glue joint anyways.
did you get my email asking about the overall length, fitting the case and my left shoulder arthritis? (did any of it make sense ... sometimes i miss the mark with my descriptions)
Email read and answered!
DrBassman
a 30.5" scale Epi meets the body almost (not quite) at the 16th fret.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/myepi.jpg)
it is a comfortable bass to play although the upper register reach is not that great but i really don't mind. it has to fit the case unless you want to modify the case neck rest by scooting it closer to the body section. (that is a 60's Gibby pup under that Epi chrome pictured here.)
i'm thinking a 32" neck would be super and would fit the case as is.
this is the bass i put that T-Bird tailpiece on that i traded that Mosrite bridge for. this Epi is going to get modified in the future to an EB3 pup set, a thinned body and a set neck. i'll leave the control holes and make the input a three way switch with the input jack on the side and simply have a master tone/volume setup. i have a set of Grovers for it but that is in the futures wishing. it should make the upper register access a lot better.
(as i stare at the 1" thick Mahog 6' planks leaning against my wall...sigh.)
the Doctor sent some pictures of the final layout today that i thought i would share.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/100_3509.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/100_3510.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/100_3508.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/100_3506.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/100_3505.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/100_3513.jpg)
these pics show how it will layout, fit the case and how it compares to a 34" scale fretboard and finally how it will balance.
the neck goes into the body towards the bridge almost an inch more verses the earlier shot showing it with a 34" fretboard and how it would lay. it was decided to move the pup a bit closer to the heel as a Dark Star has not got the mud a Gibby mudbucker has and is more clear than a mudbucker so pay no attention to the outline of the humbucker route showing. it was a guitard body and had the outline on it when i got it. the back will be Walnut and it will have front controls mounted on Ebony inset into the spalted Maple looking like a Hobbit.
the spalted Maple layout is glued like in the earlier pictures.
great job Doctor.
Thanks Sniper. Won't make any progress this weekend with the son home for a visit! We'll get back at it next week.
you don't have to dowel it doctor. cutting a crossbrace 1" wide x 1/2" deep x length of the centerpiece width and laying in a grove across both halves and the skunk stripe into each sound chamber would be okay and much easier to do.
just a thought. it would give it a little more bracing and not have to be so exacting to setup, then it would be covered by the top cap too.
Quote from: sniper dog on November 09, 2010, 03:40:37 PM
you don't have to dowel it doctor. cutting a crossbrace 1" wide x 1/2" deep x length of the centerpiece width and laying in a grove across both halves and the skunk stripe into each sound chamber would be okay and much easier to do.
just a thought. it would give it a little more bracing and not have to be so exacting to setup, then it would be covered by the top cap too.
I cut the body in half today and will install the stripe next. I can put a couple cross braces in across the top if you like. That would work just fine. I'll be planing off the fret board soon!
sounds super.
i was thinking of a butterfly key butt brace but i didn't know the name of them. to be shaped like a butterfly would not be required but i was thinking of our last conversation of dowels and trying to figure out a way to do it a lot easier.
Quote from: sniper dog on November 09, 2010, 06:03:38 PM
sounds super.
i was thinking of a butterfly key butt brace but i didn't know the name of them. to be shaped like a butterfly would not be required but i was thinking of our last conversation of dowels and trying to figure out a way to do it a lot easier.
I'll look into the key idea. Sounds like it would work.
I'm also going to use a piece of mahogany I have in the shop for the stripe. The piece you sent is going to be really thin by the time I plane and sand the saw marks out of it and I don't think I can keep it perfectly flat with the tools I have. If I use a piece of 1/8" mahogany I have on hand, it's already planed properly and will adhere better when glued.
Here's the split and planed body and the mahogany strip. I also learned a long time ago that you can't clamp curved edges very well, so I'm making some cauls to fit the edges of the body. You all know how I love to clamp things!!!!! :P See below..........
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3515.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3514.jpg)
Rough cauls before final sanding............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3516.jpg)
looking good Doc.
i had an epiphany this morning on my way to the clinic. it went something like this: "you can't have the builder put a tone switch in that requires a 1 5/8" thick area when the guitar body is only 1 1/2" thick...dum_ss!" ............... soooooooooooo.................. leave the HAS Sound switch out ................ i'll mount it on Mr. Ed's saddle horn after you send it back with the bass or i'll sell it to some cowboy and tell him as long as he uses this on his saddle, he is good for at least 8 seconds. that pup is a full range pup and with slamming it closer to the neck and body chambering it should have enough Mud to send a Fender back to it's momma asking to be changed into a banjo.
been a thimpkin again................maybe i'll tint it Apple Green to show off that spalting (which i would think would stay deep brown or black) and have a clear nailed/sprayed/dipped on top of that with the back just masked off and grain filled/stained dark then a clear on top of that, leaving the neck clear as it is now with a little buffing with some 4 ought steel wool. should look righteous with all that Black Ebony/Black Walnut/black or dark brown spalting lines and black trim goodness.
gimme some opinions here players!!!
I'm thinking any color you like would be good. Something trans to show off the splatting is a good idea. The back and sides idea sounds good also.
I love this look.............
(http://www.pbase.com/dkauer744/image/128033572.jpg)
did you notice how the binding matches the spalting on that? it has to be a non-painted/taped off binding with the same on the bottom i would guess seeing a few dark spots on the bottom edge.
Yeah, we call it faux binding. You tape off the edges while painting and it makes a nice wood colored binding. I've never done it but I like the look.
That faux binding is a cool trick. Looking forward to seeing how this all turns out!
Clamp city!!!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3519.jpg)
Looking great, Doc!
It seems like you did a great job keeping both halves aligned. You definitely need the right clamping cauls for that kind of job.
Just like you mentioned, I also learned a long time ago that you can't clamp curved edges very well...
Nothing can resist your clamping force, Doc! :D
Quote from: Daniel_J on November 11, 2010, 10:42:45 AM
Looking great, Doc!
It seems like you did a great job keeping both halves aligned. You definitely need the right clamping cauls for that kind of job.
Just like you mentioned, I also learned a long time ago that you can't clamp curved edges very well...
That's the beauty of building from scratch, you can avoid curves if you do this before cutting the body out.
Quote from: exiledarchangel on November 11, 2010, 10:56:53 AM
Nothing can resist your clamping force, Doc! :D
NOTHING!!!!!!!!! :vader:
Quote from: drbassman on November 11, 2010, 11:10:11 AM
That's the beauty of building from scratch, you can avoid curves if you do this before cutting the body out.
i have to apologize for sending that POS body Doc but i see you have repaired it nicely. thank you.
Quote from: drbassman on November 10, 2010, 05:51:13 PM
I'm thinking any color you like would be good. Something trans to show off the splatting is a good idea. The back and sides idea sounds good also.
I love this look.............
(http://www.pbase.com/dkauer744/image/128033572.jpg)
this layout just blows me away. we need to talk about a finishing. i know it was not negotiated in the build price so i will try to call later this or next week. respecting your upcoming anniversary of course. congrats.
the pup placement i just ran through Tillman's app with a 32" scale and 8" seems to work fine for pole placement. do we have enough room for 8"? that would be about slammed all the way to the neck. i had slammed a Star Fire pup against the neck in another build. i never played it but got great reports on the sound from the builder. it was a gift to a young man who got his sh_t together for his mom. oddly enough it had the same neck i sent you.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/matt%20bass/007-1.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/matt%20bass/2aa1_1.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/matt%20bass/S2400009.jpg)
wish i had two more of those necks. they are like a lighter Jazz "A" neck.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/matt%20bass/S2400011.jpg)
http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponseDemo/
just a thinking.
Quote from: drbassman on November 11, 2010, 11:10:11 AM
That's the beauty of building from scratch, you can avoid curves if you do this before cutting the body out.
True, but I have been doing a lot of builds that only have binding on the body wings, not on the neck portion of the body (the butt end). So I have to shape both wings first, install the binding and then glue them to the neck.
And on a neck-through-body construction is easier to shape the body wings before gluing to the neck.
On my first neck-through I glued the wings before shaping and it was quite a workout to shape the body afterwards with the completed neck atached to it!
From the second neck-through I started to do partial shaping before and use properly shaped cauls to glue the wings to the neck, and that is how I do it nowadays.
Wow, that SG turned out great.
Yeah, give me a call next week CW.
Cool set up Daniel. I see your point about basses with wings.
Here's the "racing stripe."
Next on the list is installation of the walnut back and routing of the cavities. Oh yeah, and planing off the fret board. Next week will be fun!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3522.jpg)
Quote from: drbassman on November 12, 2010, 06:14:11 AM
Next on the list is installation of the walnut back and routing of the cavities. Oh yeah, and planing off the fret board. Next week will be fun!
i had better get off my duff and send those last parts then.
2 1/2 to three degrees on the neck/body angle please!
golly i hope that vintage EBO loom is okay.
just for grins and giggles better make a tracing of that head. the gears are winding on a build with this single hunk of Mahogany i have laying around:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/jag%20bass/bodies002.jpg)
with a set of these Charlie Christian pups. i know, they look like "F" pups but that is where the similarity ends:
notice NO pole magnets and big honking alnico magnets behind the poles with 38 ga winding wire wound on really extra deep bobbins. this should go so low that it will make whales horny.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/jag%20bass/pb-cc.jpg)
compare them to regular depth P bass pup bobbins:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/jag%20bass/pb-v.jpg)
Quote from: sniper dog on November 10, 2010, 01:06:51 PM
looking good Doc.
i had an epiphany this morning on my way to the clinic. it went something like this: "you can't have the builder put a tone switch in that requires a 1 5/8" thick area when the guitar body is only 1 1/2" thick...dum_ss!" ............... soooooooooooo.................. leave the HAS Sound switch out ................ i'll mount it on Mr. Ed's saddle horn after you send it back with the bass or i'll sell it to some cowboy and tell him as long as he uses this on his saddle, he is good for at least 8 seconds. that pup is a full range pup and with slamming it closer to the neck and body chambering it should have enough Mud to send a Fender back to it's momma asking to be changed into a banjo.
been a thimpkin again................maybe i'll tint it Apple Green to show off that spalting (which i would think would stay deep brown or black) and have a clear nailed/sprayed/dipped on top of that with the back just masked off and grain filled/stained dark then a clear on top of that, leaving the neck clear as it is now with a little buffing with some 4 ought steel wool. should look righteous with all that Black Ebony/Black Walnut/black or dark brown spalting lines and black trim goodness.
gimme some opinions here players!!!
I forgot to tell you I got the message on the switch. You're correct, so I'll save it and send it back to you. We'll see how the harness works when we get to that stage.
I am curious about those Curtis Novak pups, I have heard they don't have the "all-middy" character of normal pbass pups, but never heard any soundclips.
never heard of them but they have caught my attention.
CurtisNovak.com - Pickups and Guitars | 760.820.4434
Forgot to mention that I like that hunk of mahogany in your post above. Is that going to be a Jag bass?
Quote from: drbassman on November 12, 2010, 06:47:18 PM
Forgot to mention that I like that hunk of mahogany in your post above. Is that going to be a Jag bass?
errr yeah, eventually
Here's the walnut back, all glued up! Beauty!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3533.jpg)
i have been waiting for this picture all day!!! love it. definately a step above the Ash.
Quote from: sniper dog on November 12, 2010, 03:36:00 PM
CurtisNovak.com - Pickups and Guitars | 760.820.4434
this phone number on Curt's site is no longer working. i know he has a website on facebook and one can communicate with him there.
Very nice...
Have I missed anything re the final fin yet...?
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on November 22, 2010, 10:50:48 AM
Very nice...
Have I missed anything re the final fin yet...?
not yet you haven't. i am getting two quotes on a fin though. basically a form of the red/yellow burst drbassman posted above but change the red to green, the black sides to very dark BRG with only the top false binding. school of thought is still out on a yellow center burst to go with the green on top. i am leaning towards leaving it natural vs yellowed center or an all natural top. the back will be filled dark with a green tint to the filler/stain and show the Walnut grain in the center with the black from the sides faded out along the edges of the back.
the neck will remain natural Maple and is presently finished in poly that will be polished to try to remove some scratches that are present.
the pup will go towards the neck with respect to aligning with the strings (2.03" DS2 pole spacing trimmed in black chrome) and the trim goodies will be all black with the exception of some TEMP chrome tuners that will be replaced with black Grovers after i get it back.
black neck plate with Vol Tone Jack, Ebony knobs, black Ebony cover control on the front, black Schaller bridge, a long black dyed Rosewood thumb rest on the bass side going from the pup to the brass bridge cover. probably an Ebony riser under the DS2. Rosewood fretboard with medium jumbo frets.
Walnut back, Ash center section with the spalted Maple top cap and the Ash chambered from 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock with respect to the center piece for sound, 1.5 inches thick over all.
the wiring loom is an original EBO refugee.
A little digging found this...
(http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/k-gakki/cabinet/egimg/gib_igu_1.jpg)
damn, drool
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on November 22, 2010, 10:50:48 AM
Very nice...
Have I missed anything re the final fin yet...?
No final decisions yet on the finish. Looking into a couple options.
Quote from: drbassman on November 22, 2010, 11:37:56 AM
No final decisions yet on the finish. Looking into a couple options.
how about showing us a shot of that vac press?
Closing down the shop for family stuff. Thanksgiving starts early around our household! I'll get back to it next week. Happy Thanksgiving everyone! You folks across the pond too. Have a wonderful week!
i am going to Sacramento before Christmas and might be there till March. i will be offline for awhile but we have numbers so that is good.
could you print/make a small logo, put it on towards the end the headstock then clear it over? it might take a little buffing to rub some minor scratches off the present headstock. it would have to be white or MOP to show on that black.
(edit)
P.S. i got two Schaller 460 bridges on that auction last night i was watching ... one gold one less studs and a chrome one that needs a tailpiece and studs but has all the saddless. i think the chromey is going on my 59 EB3/LP Jr double cut project. i'll sell the gold one to recoup my money. i got those violin tuners off Baz for the 59 but am having second thoughts about having a violin headstock. (this next one is going to be a marriage of a lot of changes in Gibby designs of 1959 through 1977)
Quote from: sniper dog on December 03, 2010, 07:55:13 AM
i am going to Sacramento before Christmas and might be there till March. i will be offline for awhile but we have numbers so that is good.
could you print/make a small logo, put it on towards the end the headstock then clear it over? it might take a little buffing to rub some minor scratches off the present headstock. it would have to be white or MOP to show on that black.
(edit)
P.S. i got two Schaller 460 bridges on that auction last night i was watching ... one gold one less studs and a chrome one that needs a tailpiece and studs but has all the saddless. i think the chromey is going on my 59 EB3/LP Jr double cut project. i'll sell the gold one to recoup my money. i got those violin tuners off Baz for the 59 but am having second thoughts about having a violin headstock. (this next one is going to be a marriage of a lot of changes in Gibby designs of 1959 through 1977)
Sounds good. I'll see what I can do. I think it could go on the top as long as it isn't too big.
That bridge sounds nice. I'm not too sure about the violin tuners, never dealt with them before.
Have a good trip!
I like green but that LP is FUGLY! :mrgreen:
Here's my template I'm working on for routing the center piece and edges. The outer edges are 1" wide and the middle is 4". I darkened the areas I think should be routed. What do ya think?
Now, we could make the center narrower if you like sniper as long as it widens at the top for the neck heel and at the bottom for the bridge. Since the top will end up at least 1/4" thick, the pup will mount nicely in that without any problem. Think of an hourglass (sort of) shape. Of course, we don't want to take too much out and create neck dive problems, so it is a bit of a crap shoot!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3546.jpg)
hmmmm, looks good to me. if we take too much out and it neck dives like a bull moose then we can always melt wheel weight lead into a cavity under the bridge. the only concern i had was shielding the control cavity and the pup.
the neck pocket looks great as does the width of the center piece. if you want to dog-bone the center then go for it. the top should be plenty thick enough to mount a pup onto. i know it balances now and however much you take out, it still has a Maple top to go on so i think we will be good on having the neck diving covered.
jack on the top surface please and the control cover a smaller but same shaped version of the LP Triumph piece.
i listed the gold bridge for sale and the split headstock tuners i sold to Rick Mullen for an EBO-L he is restoring. here is the link for the stamp:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/stamp%20Made%20in%20USA/madeinUSAstamp.jpg)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230560672935
P.S. i got some nice 3/4" thick x 48" long x 8" wide curly Maple to go with that 48" Mahogany i have so now i am wondering what to do with that 6' x 8" x 1" Mahog i got in. maybe a case for my Jag bass?
now i'm jonesing for March to roll around!
I made the guy with the USA stamp a $20 offer and he took it. So, got one on the way. Thanks for the heads-up.
are the number stamps too tall?
Quote from: sniper dog on December 23, 2010, 06:41:50 AM
are the number stamps too tall?
I don't think so. When I have a minute, I'll compare them to a Gibson serial number. Thanks again!
Quote from: sniper dog on December 23, 2010, 06:41:50 AM
are the number stamps too tall?
Nope, they are about 1mm shorter than a 60's era Gibson, so no really noticeable difference. They should work fine.
one set of black Gotoh tuners is being shipped, they are a "Cosmo Black Chrome" more like the chrome on the pup surround than the bridge.
let me know when they get there Dr.
Will do!
Back in the shop again finally after 2 weeks off. Had a great time with the family, but missed the smell of cut wood!!! Here's the first pass with the router. Went 1/2" deep for the first time. The template is working good and I'll keep it for future LP builds!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3562.jpg)
thats amazing. when the chambering is done how deep will it go before putting on the top cap? i know the back cap is about 1/4" thick. how thick will the top cap be?
i'll bet thats going to mellow that Ash.
Quote from: sniper dog on January 06, 2011, 03:45:46 PM
thats amazing. when the chambering is done how deep will it go before putting on the top cap? i know the back cap is about 1/4" thick. how thick will the top cap be?
i'll bet thats going to mellow that Ash.
Yeah, the ash will definitely be toned down a bit and that nice hollow sound should be pretty cool. I'm planning on making the top 5/16" before gluing it on. The splatted maple is light and not as strong as regular maple, so I want it a bit thicker. as for depth of the chamber, I'm going to go down to about 3/4" and see how it looks and how much it weighs before going further. The control area will be a little shallower, as we discussed before. I'll have a template of the control panel ready soon too for your input.
Here's my mock up of the control panel, ala LP Triumph. It's 5" wide and this size seems good; not too small, not too big. Let me know what you think.
PS: the tuners arrived today!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3564.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3566.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3568.jpg)
it's looking super Bill. that control template is perfect.
i think it will look very righteous with the black pup, the black bridge on it and i'm digging those black Ebony knobs. it won't look too busy and the trim will compliment the spalting.
glad the tuners got there, they were not expensive but are a good brand for what i paid for them and they should not be too heavy.
when it comes to mounting those pots and knobs, could you make a little, balanced (same looking) groove in the panel and dab a bit of white paint in the grooves for both knobs to reference zero wth those dots on the knobs? say about 9:00 oclock?
and and and i know i didn't explain it very good but could you label the knobs to say 1) twist this to get all the chicks to want to have my baby and 2) twist this one to look 40 pounds lighter and grow hair again?
Quote from: sniper dog on January 07, 2011, 04:35:36 PM
it's looking super Bill. that control template is perfect.
i think it will look very righteous with the black pup, the black bridge on it and i'm digging those black Ebony knobs. it won't look too busy and the trim will compliment the spalting.
glad the tuners got there, they were not expensive but are a good brand for what i paid for them and they should not be too heavy.
when it comes to mounting those pots and knobs, could you make a little, balanced (same looking) groove in the panel and dab a bit of white paint in the grooves for both knobs to reference zero wth those dots on the knobs? say about 9:00 oclock?
and and and i know i didn't explain it very good but could you label the knobs to say 1) twist this to get all the chicks to want to have my baby and 2) twist this one to look 40 pounds lighter and grow hair again?
Well, I can label those knobs, but they'll have to come with a disclaimer! Miracles not guarenteed. ;D Actually, I have an idea for the markers on the control panel. I have a bag of 2mm pearl dots. Could I inlay a couple of those instead of lines? I'm not a fan of paint, but I'll do whatever you like.
Coming along nicely...
Quote from: drbassman on January 08, 2011, 07:24:00 AM
;D Actually, I have an idea for the markers on the control panel. I have a bag of 2mm pearl dots. Could I inlay a couple of those instead of lines?
that would be super!!!!!!!!!!! yesssssssss by all means.
i am actually liking those worm holes.
Quote from: sniper dog on January 08, 2011, 08:36:08 AM
that would be super!!!!!!!!!!! yesssssssss by all means.
i am actually liking those worm holes.
OK, pearl dots it is! Yeah, the roughness of the top is growing on me, too.
I finished the chambers this morning. 3/4" deep on the main sections, 1/2" under the control area. That should leave enough room for the pots, however I just realized the jack requires a lot more depth! Duh! Might just drill out a deeper inset hole for that with a forstner bit.
She weighs in at 4.5 lbs. without the top, and 5.75 with top. I'm liking that weight, so I may not take as much off the top as I had planned. I think it's better if it's closer to 3/8" thick rather than 5/16".
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3570.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3571.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3574.jpg)
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on January 08, 2011, 07:53:18 AM
Coming along nicely...
Thanks Kenny. How are your projects coming these days? Weather holding out for you?
Stalled and still in the shed... Bit like the Petr Cook rebuild last time... weather has been fair, excluding the unseasonal pre Christmas dump of snow... just damp, damp, and more damp... that combined with too may things on the go at once, as usual... ;)
Oh yeah... I had to do a doubletake with that pic of your scales... I only saw the Kg range at first... :o ;D
I hear ya! The unfinished projects are starting to take up all the room in my shop! I convinced my wife to let me have another 12' x 12' section of the basement for my power tools, so I'll be throwing junk out to expand my shop for the next month or so. Oh yeah! ;D
I just found a small baggie with some small MOP dots while cleaning my shop. I know what Im gonna save them for now. I love spalted maple , although its become kinda popular. That is gonna look righteous! great sizing on the plate. Black pup & hardware,nice. What is the top finish gonna be again? M
Quote from: shadowcastaz on January 08, 2011, 11:38:16 AM
...That is gonna look righteous! great sizing on the plate. Black pup & hardware,nice. What is the top finish gonna be again? M
Bill and I have discussed a finish but we have come to no conclusion as of yet. I originally wanted a simple finish with a mixture of distillate/carnuba wax/tung-oil. Now that I am watching it come together I am still leaning towards a "natural" looking finish with maybe dark paint on the sides and a clear over the top and back when they are sealed, but like I said, we have not arrived at a conclusion about a finish.
The build is actually a verbal contract between Bill and I and it seems to be a viable work agreement in price, time and a combination of what I want and what he wants to design. Just good respect all around. However Bill is not setup to do finish work at this time and if he decides to do it, it will remain on a limited scale basis at this time until he decides when and if to expand on this aspect of building. The verbal contract is to be finish sanded and that is where the agreement ends as it stands. I have been wanting Bill to build my bass for almost three years and I am happy he decided to take this project on. He has extended himself to me and I am proud that he has.
So the finish will be:
1) a BSC (beer, sweat and ciggie's) naturally applied one
2) a simple one in concept and design that we both can live with,
or
3) be contracted out to someone else and that is all I can tell you at this time.
The original idea of mine was to have a bass built from pieces I have collected over some years as inexpensively as possible, have a master woodworker of my choice build it and play it with love. I started out with a 100$ Epi I parted out 5 years ago on Ebay and have been collecting parts from the profits ever since. I have sold many parts I would have rather have kept, but I have tried to stay focused and this is the first of three builds (not counting amps) I hope to eventually have done. My entire setup a much modified Epi EBO, a 50 watt Bassman 10 in a tall Bandmaster head cab, an AB165 shell with chassis to be rebuilt as a Sunn 200S, a 2-12 Blonde Bassman cab, a NOS JBL 15" speaker and plans for a tone-ring 1-15 cab, enough parts to build my other two basses are all here waiting to be assembled and it all started from that 100$ investment and trading/selling. Some things are ready and rocking and others are still in boxes. I live on a social security retirement that amounts to less than 1000$ a month. Do not feel sorry for me as I have been many things. 7 years ago I was a salaried/stock optioned personel assistant to a multi-millionaire and I told him to stick it and drove away in my Chevy van without a penny in my pocket. I have never regreted it.
Cheers CW
I think putting in some beer, sweat and ciggie equity would be a great "finish" to a very cool collaboration!
Quote from: drbassman on January 07, 2011, 02:02:38 PM
Here's my mock up of the control panel, ala LP Triumph. It's 5" wide and this size seems good; not too small, not too big. Let me know what you think.
PS: the tuners arrived today!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3564.jpg)
Mold... What a beautiful piece of wood... I might be a little biased however....
(http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac102/desantisjn/Wishbass500/FODERA%20_WALNUT/Foderasycamore1.jpg)
black hardware looks very nice with the spaulted sycamore i have
(http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac102/desantisjn/Wishbass500/FODERA%20_WALNUT/Foderasycamore1.jpg)
not a great picture but a semi gloss poly finish has held up well. Bass was built in 1987/88. shows the wood off nicely
[/quote]
Quote from: dadagoboi on January 08, 2011, 04:17:02 PM
I think putting in some beer, sweat and ciggie equity would be a great "finish" to a very cool collaboration!
always a great start & finish! :mrgreen:natural with some beer stain(amber to porter)
Bill,
The die is cast ... I ask the girlfriend.
She said "My father refinished furniture for a living. Show off the wood that gentleman is working so hard to assemble for you. Clearcoat it."
Could you do it in poly and could you give me an estimate? If you would then shoot it thin as possible, it will eventually wear through at least on the neck and then it will gain some B S C charactor especially after you steel wool or buff out that name.
CW
I might add that just a hint of some type of amber may really make a natural finish pop. Just saying.... ;D
a bit of Amber tint would be nice. ;D ;D
Whatever you choose, you don't want an extra-thin coat on a spalted top unless you're okay with serious deterioration of the wood.
thanks Dave ... sometimes i can't see the forest because of all those frigging trees!!! guess the B S & C finish is out then also ... same same. i think a good clear poly over an amber tint is in order then.
Quote from: sniper dog on January 09, 2011, 01:56:38 PM
thanks Dave ... sometimes i can't see the forest because of all these frigging trees!!! guess the B S & C finish is out then also ... same same. i think a good clear poly over an amber tint is in order then.
Opps, look what I missed while away from the computer! I can do an amber tint and a spray clear poly. I like the tint idea a lot. Can I suggest also filling and staining the edges of the ash to match up a little better first with the walnut back? That would be my take on it!
Dave's right, that maple is pretty soft and breakable! Kinda reminds me of blue cheese!
My lady has spoken, my builder has spoken and my brothers have spoken, it is decided and it will stand.
Amber tinted cap and the sides tinted to match the back with clear poly over the lot.
Bill, the neck finish is up to you depending on how it turns out after buffing the clear it already has to remove those scratches. Hope you have your logos coming soon.
This is going to be at least as cool as the first time I got to second base!
Quote from: sniper dog on January 09, 2011, 04:20:15 PM
My lady has spoken, my builder has spoken and my brothers have spoken, it is decided and it will stand.
Amber tinted cap and the sides tinted to match the back with clear poly over the lot.
Bill, the neck finish is up to you depending on how it turns out after buffing the clear it already has to remove those scratches. Hope you have your logos coming soon.
This is going to be at least as cool as the first time I got to second base!
Sounds good CW. We'll polish the neck up and see how it turns out. May not need any finsh really, the poly on there is quite thick. Typical Epi style finish.
Wow, second base.....don't know if I can top that!!!!! 8)
Blue cheese fin... my daughter would freak... :o
Will she come with oatcakes...? ;D
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on January 11, 2011, 12:47:16 PM
Blue cheese fin... my daughter would freak... :o
Will she come with oatcakes...? ;D
I was thinking of the way blue cheese crumbles!!!!!
Oakcakes sound interesting? Are they uniquely British?
Scottish - a very basic distinctive flat biscuit - works great with blue cheese...
(http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT__Mma9tuqy6h8HmEGjyEFcGQC8vGyUWb21S5Q3cCPBxQxTaOsow)
I shouldn't have done that... there are oatcakes in the cupboard and blue cheese in the fridge... :o
Ive had oat cakes in nova scotia.slightly sweet cookie type thing served at dinner with rolls.very white & I would think they would be great with a roqfort or stilton,IMHO
Ah, I see! You'd think my Scottish relatives would have brought that over the pond with them!
Quote from: drbassman on January 12, 2011, 05:53:05 AM
Ah, I see! You'd think my Scottish relatives would have brought that over the pond with them!
Lucky for you that they left it over there with the haggis.
Quote from: Dave W on January 12, 2011, 08:22:30 AM
Lucky for you that they left it over there with the haggis.
Amen, they can keep the haggis!
;D
(oops... nearly forgot - nearly Burns' Night - Uisge + neeps and tatties and (veggie) haggis)
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on January 12, 2011, 12:17:45 PM
;D
(oops... nearly forgot - nearly Burns' Night - Uisge + neeps and tatties and (veggie) haggis)
Veggie haggis? The oatmeal's got to be even worse than the sheep bits.
I suppose you recite
Address to a Haggis by heart on Burns' Night.
Back on topic for a minute. I had a chance to make the control plate. Worked out nice using the ebony.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3576.jpg)
nice proportions Doc!
Very Tasty! Is it gonna be inlaid into the top or sit on it?
Quote from: shadowcastaz on January 13, 2011, 08:45:49 AM
nice proportions Doc!
Thanks! It took a couple times to get it right.
Quote from: dadagoboi on January 13, 2011, 09:22:11 AM
Very Tasty! Is it gonna be inlaid into the top or sit on it?
Sniper said to just lay it on the top. So, I'll probably do that. I'm also considering rounding the edges, it'll look nice and finished that way.
do it anyway you want Doc:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Dr%20Bass/tumblr_lekqktcKyy1qewf28o1_500.png)
Gosh darn it...!
Where was I...?
Quote from: Dave W on January 12, 2011, 01:55:14 PM
I suppose you recite Address to a Haggis by heart on Burns' Night.
Nah... just drink the whisky... ;D
Mind you, reputedly, my paternal grandfather had two books he would take to sea: the Bible and a book of Burns' poetry, and he could quote from them from anywhere...
I suppose we'd best let you get back to your thread... ;)
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on January 13, 2011, 12:10:38 PM
I suppose we'd best let you get back to your thread... ;)
Thread? We don't need no stinkin' thread!
Well, this almost never happens to me, but I got lucky today. I planed off the fret board (I was supposed to that, right? ;) ) and I found a Martin truss rod assembly in there! Who would have guessed that Epi used a Martin-style truss rod back years ago? And what are the odds that I would have bought one recently for a future acoustic project and it fits perfectly??? Oh my, I am really feeling lucky today!
Here's the old rod still in place..............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3583.jpg)
Slot after removal.....................
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3585.jpg)
Rods side by side...................
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3586.jpg)
New rod in place................
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3589.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3592.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3591.jpg)
I had a piece of mahogany in the scrap box and laid it out with the logo just to see how it would look. What do you think? I have plenty of ebony left over to make the disk out of that.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3588.jpg)
Digging the Logo in ebony on the upper bout a lot...what exactly was wrong with the original TR?
1) thank you for sharing the truss rod replacement. i prefer Martin type rods.
Quote from: dadagoboi on January 17, 2011, 11:49:39 AM
...what exactly was wrong with the original TR?
it was frozen solid Carlo i tried to adjust it but to no avail.
2) the logo looks great. after all you are building 95% of this from scratch, i realize the neck was built but it was non-functional and we decided to keep the Epiphone logo. i think it looks like it belongs there.
Thanks, Sniper!
Quote from: dadagoboi on January 17, 2011, 11:49:39 AM
Digging the Logo in ebony on the upper bout a lot...what exactly was wrong with the original TR?
The rod was stripped and jammed at the bottom fitting. So, out it went! I think a gorilla must have been the previous owner. The neck is straight, so I don't think there would have been a need to go crazy on the truss rod adjustments. The "new" neck will have a rosewood board and be a 32" scale.
And I agree, the Epi logo on the headstock is nice and should stay! It fits and is attractive.
I have read that the "Martin-style" truss rod was developed in Japan and used in Japanese guitars and basses well before Martin went to an adjustable truss rod. Martin used fixed rods until the mid 80s.
I did some research and found it is relatively easy to remove a fretboard using a clothes iron and some thin prying tools like a putty knife and scrapers. Tried it on a Chinese neck that wouldn't adjust. It took about 20 minutes to remove the board. I drilled a small locating hole at each end of the board before I started so I can glue it back on in exactly the same place after replacing the rod, which of course I haven't gotten around to yet. I've got an Epi Pro IV that needs the same operation, trussrod is stripped.
Quote from: Dave W on January 17, 2011, 01:05:32 PM
I have read that the "Martin-style" truss rod was developed in Japan and used in Japanese guitars and basses well before Martin went to an adjustable truss rod. Martin used fixed rods until the mid 80s.
I read the same thing somewhere, maybe at Stew-Mac or one of my repair books. At least they finally did move to the adjustable rods.
Quote from: dadagoboi on January 17, 2011, 01:22:26 PM
I did some research and found it is relatively easy to remove a fretboard using a clothes iron and some thin prying tools like a putty knife and scrapers. Tried it on a Chinese neck that wouldn't adjust. It took about 20 minutes to remove the board. I drilled a small locating hole at each end of the board before I started so I can glue it back on in exactly the same place after replacing the rod, which of course I haven't gotten around to yet. I've got an Epi Pro IV that needs the same operation, trussrod is stripped.
Yes, it's documented in several repair manuals and online. I haven't tried it yet (I'll have to get my own iron, my wife said I couldn't use hers). The couple necks I've worked on needed new boards anyway, so planing was the simple easy way to go. In this case, a rosewood board is an upgrade as the previous owner had pulled the frets and screwed up the maple board. So, that's life! One day I'll try the hot iron method, maybe on a junk neck for practice first!!!
i have a few rods that need to be replaced. i will try the iron method out one of these days . Hopefully i will be able to learn from one of you first as i am a semi hack/skilled luthier....
I'm very good at taking things apart. Most of them never get put back together ;D
Quote from: dadagoboi on January 17, 2011, 04:08:05 PM
I'm very good at taking things apart. Most of them never get put back together ;D
Hey, me too! I've got parts of 7 or 8 basses all over the place!
I disambled a Epi LP Special guitar neck that had this type of truss rod too. It was a made in Indonesia one.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/S2400009.jpg)
this neck bought 5 years ago had a Martin type TR. i bought it disassembled and it went in this:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/matt%20bass/008-1.jpg)
Until I bought one, I hadn't seen one of the Martin rods. I have a couple Martin acoustic bass necks I'm gonna use for future projects with the correct channel already routed.
FWIW, Martin went to a two-way rod about 2007.
Quote from: Dave W on January 17, 2011, 09:36:29 PM
FWIW, Martin went to a two-way rod about 2007.
Basses and guitars? Where do you pick up this information? Do you ever sleep? ;)
Quote from: drbassman on January 18, 2011, 03:44:20 AM
Basses and guitars? Where do you pick up this information? Do you ever sleep? ;)
Dave and Meg of the White Stripes have been taken by aliens and a duplicated ingram processed Borq have replaced them. Uwe is currently under investigation concerning a similar fate.
Carlo is an upcoming person of interest.
Quote from: drbassman on January 18, 2011, 03:44:20 AM
Basses and guitars? Where do you pick up this information? Do you ever sleep? ;)
I'm not sure about the basses since they've never listed bass truss rods in their "1833 Shop" online. They sell both the old and new style guitar truss rods, and the new one is called a two-way truss rod. The pic isn't big enough to see details.
I read about it on another forum at the time of the change because some buyers couldn't find the truss rods to adjust their new Martins. The new rods are set further back in the access hole (under the soundboard) so you have to use a longer wrench.
Quote from: sniper on January 18, 2011, 08:22:40 AM
Dave and Meg of the White Stripes have been taken by aliens and a duplicated ingram processed Borq have replaced them. Uwe is currently under investigation concerning a similar fate.
Carlo is an upcoming person of interest.
Meg White? What prompted that?
I do have something in common with her, neither of us are good drummers.
i spun the wheel and her name came up, you seem to be a neverending source of information (which i look forward too) and Carlo has been rumored to have built a bass in 34 seconds?
all in good fun, no offense meant.
I'm certainly not offended, just wondered if maybe she had done something odd lately... since being reprogrammed by the aliens.
Meg who? Man, there is so much trivia I just don't know!!!!!!!!!
now that every guy in rock has boinked her there's no where to go but up.
Quote from: nofi on January 18, 2011, 01:20:07 PM
now that every guy in rock has boinked her there's no where to go but up.
What's the difference between Meg White and the Titanic?
Only 1300 men went down on the Titanic.
:rimshot:
(an old joke about Madonna)
Yikes, I'm gonna have to google her just to see what she looks like!!!!
Well, I found her online. Whew! As we used to say way back when, "She looks rode hard and put away wet!"
Routed the ebony today for the logo...............now off to some football.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3595.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3597.jpg)
that is smack-down cool!
GO PACKERS...GO PACKERS...GO PACKERS...GO PACKERS...GO PACKERS...
Quote from: sniper on January 23, 2011, 04:35:39 PM
that is smack-down cool!
GO PACKERS...GO PACKERS...GO PACKERS...GO PACKERS...GO PACKERS...
Glad you like it. Way to go Packers! Go Steelers!
OK, the logo medallion is finished! Here's the layout for one of the keys/dutchmen Sniper wants installed to keep the bass joint stable. There will be one at the heel end as well.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3604.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3606.jpg)
Getting quite a workout on this one, Bill! Looking great...is that one of those inlay router inserts w/removable bushing?
Quote from: dadagoboi on January 31, 2011, 06:25:48 AM
Getting quite a workout on this one, Bill! Looking great...is that one of those inlay router inserts w/removable bushing?
Yep, it's the set up from Rockler. Works pretty good. I like using the pattern router bits with roller bearing better than the brass ring setup.
the medallion looks amazing. how do you fill in the gaps between the logo and the routing? i cannot tell by looking at the finished picture vs the one where you just did the routing that it is the same wood piece. do you put sawdust in the epoxy?
i understand about the dutchman keys, a friend of mine owns 1300 acres in VA and her barn is so old it is pegged together with old growth oak beams. the house is not antibellum though it burnt and was rebuilt in the early 1900's but the day kitchen is prewar as well as the cabin which was the original slave quarters. its quite an old farm. the last time i was there i walked around and noticed stuff like that and then found some civil war musket/mini balls laying in her field.
i love the old world craftsmanship you are applying in this build.
Quote from: drbassman on January 31, 2011, 07:43:54 AM
Yep, it's the set up from Rockler. Works pretty good. I like using the pattern router bits with roller bearing better than the brass ring setup.
The supplied bit from Rockler is also probably better than the 'Harbor Fright' one.
Definitely some neat 4-1-1 going on here...
Quote from: dadagoboi on January 31, 2011, 09:28:46 AM
The supplied bit from Rockler is also probably better than the 'Harbor Fright' one.
Yikes, I wouldn't use anything form "The Harbor" for precsion work! Or durability.
Quote from: drbassman on January 31, 2011, 12:53:56 PM
Yikes, I wouldn't use anything form "The Harbor" for precsion work! Or durability.
Yeah but I replaced the not so good part with an Onsrud CNC cutter. OTOH I would never use rattlecans for a pro paint job but I would a $29 spray gun. Gotta pick my spots, I'm on a $700 a month SS pension. ;D
I hear ya. I want a spray gun setup vntually, but I don't have a good place to do it and our weather here sucks! My ultimate plan is for a shop with a spary area walled off from the rest of the shop. Surprisingly, in limited situations, the cans do work well. Practice makes perfect! :P
Quote from: drbassman on January 31, 2011, 02:11:58 PM
I hear ya. I want a spray gun setup vntually, but I don't have a good place to do it and our weather here sucks! My ultimate plan is for a shop with a spary area walled off from the rest of the shop. Surprisingly, in limited situations, the cans do work well. Practice makes perfect! :P
Yeah, when I got back from China I used rattlecans to do my '57 P tribute.
You will love it when you get your spray set up and find out what you've been missing.
I can't wait to have a spray set up. It will be a year or more before I can figure it out.
Quote from: sniper on January 31, 2011, 08:54:54 AM
the medallion looks amazing. how do you fill in the gaps between the logo and the routing? i cannot tell by looking at the finished picture vs the one where you just did the routing that it is the same wood piece. do you put sawdust in the epoxy?
I use the Behlens filler powder. They make a nice ebony and rosewood that mixes nicely with epoxy. I'm also collecting and saving dust from fingerboard routing to experiment with that.
I put a pressure regulator and filter in the output line from my compressor with quick disconnects so I can get them out of the circuit for normal use. Bought a $30 detail gun from Home Depot for spraying lacquer and it worked fine. Still learning how to adjust the nozzle - I left a rather rough finish that required a lot of sanding on the body I sprayed with it. I also was able to use the pressure regulator to set the air pressure low enough for my air brush.
A detail gun has a smaller canister than a full spray gun, but there's plenty of capacity for an instrument.
Quote from: Pilgrim on February 02, 2011, 03:37:42 PM
I put a pressure regulator and filter in the output line from my compressor with quick disconnects so I can get them out of the circuit for normal use. Bought a $30 detail gun from Home Depot for spraying lacquer and it worked fine. Still learning how to adjust the nozzle - I left a rather rough finish that required a lot of sanding on the body I sprayed with it. I also was able to use the pressure regulator to set the air pressure low enough for my air brush.
A detail gun has a smaller canister than a full spray gun, but there's plenty of capacity for an instrument.
Rough finish comes from too dry an application of paint, possibly too much thinner causing paint to dry before it flows out or improper air pressure not allowing proper atomization of the paint.
Paint some scrap applying paint to the point of running to get an idea of how 'wet' to apply it. A detail gun will work but not as well as a full size gun that puts out a 5 to 7 inch wide band of paint. I'm spraying at 20-25 psi at the gun using overlapping wet coats. A $30 Harbor Freight siphon gun is much better choice than a $30 Home Depot gun IMO.
Thanks! I think the siphon gun would also be less work to clean.
I routed the butterflies tonight. I'll install them next then the top.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3610.jpg)
amazing!!!
this bass should be excellent for whichever one of my grandchildren gets it after i am well gone.
Quote from: sniper on February 03, 2011, 06:57:56 AM
amazing!!!
this bass should be excellent for whichever one of my grandchildren gets it after i am well gone.
I hope so!!!
Made a butterfly template and cut them out of solid hard rock maple on the router table. Installed and drying. The top is next!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3612.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/100_3613.jpg)
i had one of my first dreams about this build late this morning ... i think it was brought on by the burrito i had at 4:00 AM after i fixed my paypal account. man food while the g/f is away.
don't think i am awake all the way as i:
1) started to load a ciggy (i load my own as the smoke is really mild - a pipe blend)
2) looked at these pictures
3) loaded the machine that loads my prerolled filter tubes
4) lit the empty tube i was holding in my mouth immediatly while looking at these pics
5) smoked the worlds fastest burning ciggy barely saving my moustache
You gotta watch those burritos, man! They can haunt you for days! Glad you saved the moustache. I wouldn't want to be seen in public without mine. :vader:
i sort of felt like Lucille Ball setting my nose on fire (which was an accident they decided to keep after filming the event).
i almost wanted to say lets make an EB3 out of it yesterday after getting this pic from Curt but i resisted the urge:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Curtis%20Novak/EB-Choke.jpg)
his take on remaking the late model choke. he has had my wiring loom for 6 months but it took forever to find the correct bobbins. now it is possible to get all the components at one source to remake an EB3 or early Ripper wiring loom complete or perhaps have him make one for a project.
Wow, I saw that. Very cool, especially for fixing a vintage restoration.
Here ya go CW. All routed for wiring and top glued on. I always glue things upside down so the glue doesn't run all over the sides of the bass.
Clamps galore!!!!!!!!!!! :o
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0007.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0008.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0009.jpg)
Looking good Doc! ;D
But, seriously, you are slipping! I think you might have been able to sqeeze in a couple of more clamps if you had really tried ;)
nicely done Doc! this has turned into a very good day:
top is on the build,
sold about 355$ of stuff on the bay
and
gathered enough "Junque" to assemble a '71 mudbucker for rebuilding. (think i'll swap the cover for a nice one off my Epi!! and MOJO the old "phone" out a bit!)
i think there was about 5-6 sources of parts for the whole pickup asembly, lol. i don't think all 4 screws even came from the same place!
i'm kinda digging that color contrast on the sides.
izzat my neck in the background?
don't overdo that wrist!!!
Quote from: Lightyear on February 15, 2011, 05:52:59 PM
Looking good Doc! ;D
But, seriously, you are slipping! I think you might have been able to sqeeze in a couple of more clamps if you had really tried ;)
Yeah I was gonna, but my wrist was getting tired!!!! :P
Quote from: sniper on February 15, 2011, 06:09:01 PM
nicely done Doc! this has turned into a very good day:
top is on the build,
sold about 355$ of stuff on the bay
and
gathered enough "Junque" to assemble a '71 mudbucker for rebuilding. (think i'll swap the cover for a nice one off my Epi!! and MOJO the old "phone" out a bit!)
i think there was about 5-6 sources of parts for the whole pickup asembly, lol. i don't think all 4 screws even came from the same place!
i'm kinda digging that color contrast on the sides.
izzat my neck in the background?
don't overdo that wrist!!!
Wow, you did have a good day! I realy like the contrast on the sides too! Yep, your neck is in the back ground. When I get my pin router set up next week, we'll make a template for the neck pocket. Very cool! The fret board will go on after I use the neck to line up the screw holes so they'll be right on target.
Got the mahog body yesterday, very nice wood. I'm probably gonna do roundover edges on the back, hollowed out chambers, a cherry top and white binding. Short scale Fender replica neck. Eventually!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: drbassman on February 16, 2011, 06:03:11 AM
...Got the mahog body yesterday, very nice wood. I'm probably gonna do roundover edges on the back, hollowed out chambers, a cherry top and white binding. Short scale Fender replica neck. Eventually!!!!!!!!!!!!!
a short scale Epi neck like mine would look great on the Mahog body. how about a lowz pup hanging on there with black or chrome trim?
i thought a roundover might take out that hole, i know it will be doable!
Quote from: sniper on February 16, 2011, 08:22:42 AM
a short scale Epi neck like mine would look great on the Mahog body. how about a lowz pup hanging on there with black or chrome trim?
i thought a roundover might take out that hole, i know it will be doable!
I have an original Musicmaster neck I'm gonna copy for it. I also have a set of original Fender Coronado bass pups and harness, complete! It'll look great and sound really cool!!! My logo will fit nicely on that style neck!
Top's on! Oh yeah! I might have to "keep" this one! ;D
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0010_001.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0011_002.jpg)
Beautiful, both the materials and the work!
I looked at this and thought Michelangelo and marble.
"This essence of holy gold felt warm to my touch and my heart wept with joy as this remembered treasure came to life once more.
Could be this wonder for me, I gasped as my heart became youthfully alive again.
Could my bones feel any warmer and stronger, perhaps as before?
The eyes of this magic are looking at me and saying I live for thee and am the food that has been made for thee."
quoted from my poem "Reliving the Woman"
Quote from: sniper on February 17, 2011, 08:44:07 AM
I looked at this and thought Michelangelo and marble.
"This essence of holy gold felt warm to my touch and my heart wept with joy as this remembered treasure came to life once more.
Could be this wonder for me, I gasped as my heart became youthfully alive again.
Could my bones feel any warmer and stronger, perhaps as before?
The eyes of this magic are looking at me and saying I live for thee and am the food that has been made for thee."
quoted from my poem "Reliving the Woman"
Wow, waxing poetic isn't something I can do, but this is rather nice. What's it from?
Glad you like it, too!
Quote from: dadagoboi on February 17, 2011, 06:01:00 AM
Beautiful, both the materials and the work!
Thanks! I'm liking the look. I've never worked with splated maple before. The look of marble is really kinda unique. My only complaint is that it's a little soft, so you do have to be careful. I made the top thicker than I usually do to compensate some for the softness.
Beautiful build, I am enjoying watching this!
Quote from: drbassman on February 17, 2011, 09:28:59 AM
Wow, waxing poetic isn't something I can do, but this is rather nice. What's it from?
Glad you like it, too!
From this:
Reliving the Woman
I looked in the box and what did I see?
I had found an old treasured magic that had been made long ago.
I reached in to hold this thing in my hands and see if it still glowed.
This essence of holy gold felt warm to my touch and my heart wept with joy as this remembered treasure came to life once more.
Could be this wonder for me, I gasped as my heart became youthfully alive again.
Could my bones feel any warmer and stronger, perhaps as before?
The eyes of this magic are looking at me and saying I live for thee and am the food that has been made for thee.
Those magic eyes that have been sleeping not in my sight for so long now are shining for me and telling me my heart is alive within thier warmth.
I close my eyes and am I young again and remember this instant of creation and the year's fall from me as scales did from Paul upon seeing.
My sins are smoothing and my garments are becoming my skin, translucent and singing as they wrap me in life.
I am becoming as I was before I was and God is smiling.
Found treasure did I, and my voice is once again steady and baritone with a richness beyond words.
Found treasure did I and my blood I feel warming as a new ray warms the leaf beneath the dew.
She is coming to see me; I can breathe her essence and feel it scent my very being.
She is coming to see me.
The woman is coming to see me.
Copyright ã 2004
Clarence W. Andrews, Webb City, Missouri
Something I wrote several lifetimes ago I have not posted my poetry here in a long time.
Love the body.
Quote from: sniper on February 17, 2011, 09:49:16 AM
From this:
Reliving the Woman
I looked in the box and what did I see?
I had found an old treasured magic that had been made long ago.
I reached in to hold this thing in my hands and see if it still glowed.
This essence of holy gold felt warm to my touch and my heart wept with joy as this remembered treasure came to life once more.
Could be this wonder for me, I gasped as my heart became youthfully alive again.
Could my bones feel any warmer and stronger, perhaps as before?
The eyes of this magic are looking at me and saying I live for thee and am the food that has been made for thee.
Those magic eyes that have been sleeping not in my sight for so long now are shining for me and telling me my heart is alive within its warmth.
I close my eyes and am I young again and remember this instant of creation and the year's fall from me as scales did from Paul upon seeing.
My sins are smoothing and my garments are becoming my skin, translucent and singing as they wrap me in life.
I am becoming as I was before I was and God is smiling.
Found treasure did I, and my voice is once again steady and baritone with a richness beyond words.
Found treasure did I and my blood I feel warming as a new ray warms the leaf beneath the dew.
She is coming to see me; I can breathe her essence and feel it scent my very being.
She is coming to see me.
The woman is coming to see me.
Copyright ã 2004
Clarence W. Andrews, Webb City, Missouri
Very nice! Kudos CW!
I used to think of myself as a wordsmith in training. I prolly have enough written material, poems, short stories, childrens literature and lyrics to publish a few books. I'll post other later.
Thanks for the kudos my friend, back to you. We all have our forte. I love your craftsmanship.
A page from one of my childrens books:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Mipsie/22.jpg)
Quote from: sniper on February 17, 2011, 10:08:37 AM
I used to think of myself as a wordsmith in training. I prolly have enough written material, poems, short stories, childrens literature and lyrics to publish a few books. I'll post other later.
Thanks for the kudos my friend, back to you. We all have our forte. I love your craftsmanship.
A page from one of my childrens books:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Mipsie/22.jpg)
You are too much! I'm impressed and always amazed at what some folks can create. It's fun to findout what lurks here behind members' posts. I envy creativity and I'm always striving to create something.........anything! I finally found basses and wood!
This place never stops to amaze me! Very nice work mr. sniper! ;)
Lookin gud Doc. The spalted maple is a fickle B#@!h. Contrasting densities ,side by side. When you finish her & the grain pops I would bet sniper is going to have to pry it from your hands
On another note ,as you know I have a clamp fetish so I would appreciate less clampage! :mrgreen: :-*
Squirrels...! he mentioned Squirrels...! ;D
(sorry, a bit too much cafeine today...) :sad:
Dr have you ever wondered what I included that long piece of thin dark wood that looks like it matches the fretboard wood for?
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/fb-extension-02.jpg)
Aligned with the bass side of the pup would be nice and functional.
Quote from: sniper on February 19, 2011, 06:14:42 AM
Dr have you ever wondered what I included that long piece of thin dark wood that looks like it matches the fretboard wood for?
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/fb-extension-02.jpg)
Aligned with the bass side of the pup would be nice and functional.
My memory is so bad, I'll have to look in the box again!
Got the neck heel shaped and a draft heel template made. So far, so good today!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0038_029.jpg)
nice work
that neck looks like new
be sure to make a head pattern for that Explorer head shape = could come in handy
most will think it will look a bit odd on that LP body but i think it will look fine
Quote from: sniper on February 27, 2011, 11:16:57 AM
nice work
that neck looks like new
be sure to make a head pattern for that Explorer head shape = could come in handy
most will think it will look a bit odd on that LP body but i think it will look fine
Thanks Sniper. It's gettin' there. I plan to make a template of the entire neck and headstock. You never know when it might come i nhandy. Now that I have the pin router, it'll be a lot easier and more accurate.
I did another test neck pocket and it turned out great. Now I'll measure the center up on the body face, center the template and give it a whirl..............if my wife doesn't yell at me for spending all day in the shop!!!!
BTW, I found that big hunk of ebony you sent in my basket of your stuff. Is that the piece you want the thumb rest made out of?
that will prolly work better than the skinny piece of rosewood i sent (i think i sent ... i might have thought i sent?)
Quote from: sniper on February 27, 2011, 12:35:45 PM
that will prolly work better than the skinny piece of rosewood i sent (i think i sent ... i might have thought in sent?)
Damn, I don't see any rosewood, but I'll look again. I might have some rosewood laying around anyway that would work. I'll let you know what I find. If I use the ebony, I'll double it up by gluing two pieces together so it'll be taller.
;D use the Ebony, that piece of rosewood is a lost cause = better it is lost.
did you get the Rocky Racoon fell into his room pickup yet?
my next cause:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/goldtop5.jpg)
Quote from: sniper on February 27, 2011, 01:02:53 PM
;D use the Ebony, that piece of rosewood is a lost cause = better it is lost.
did you get the Rocky Racoon fell into his room pickup yet?
my next cause:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/goldtop5.jpg)
Yep, got the pickup! Gorgot to tell you. things have been so crazy since we got home. I'll tell you more about later.
Wow, that's a nice LP body. I gotta build me one some day!
While we were on vacation, my uncle (84 yrs old) in Ohio died on Sunday. I was responsible for his affairs, so we ended our vacation with a funeral on Friday. Fortunately, he had me plan everything in advance several years ago, so it went off without a hitch. We just were expecting him to live longer I guess.
Anyway, we made it home safely and sent uncle Joe back to Missouri to be with his wife. In the end, it's what he wanted and we were thankful for his time on earth.
He trusted you and I hurt for my friend. My daughter Christin and I had a talk about my last wishes last week after she called and told me she had a dream about me not being here any more. It was a good talk. I picked a spot and there I will be until I hear the Masters voice or feel his touch. I am sure your uncles essence feels the peace you have given him.
just to keep the brothers and sisters up to date on the flat body with a large neck angle situation:
Doc has his new pin router and we have exchanged ideas about how to raise the bridge, me having provided him with a black Schaller 463 bridge. With the riser block it appears that the bridge is going to still be too low in order to get the neck angle of what i want.
the solution is that i have a NOS chrome Warwick bridge from a Les Paul (without the "W" cast into the tailpiece) that i am sending the Doctor. Doc and i are swapping bridges as he is getting a black Warwick bridge setup for my build. the one i am sending him will hopefully arrive before the black one does so as to not put a halt on the build and let the Doctor swap the bridges out when the black one arrives. the chrome one will be used on his LP build with the new body/neck core he purchased locally.
Thanks for the kind words CW. My uncle Joe was a kind gentle soul who lived a simple life and loved his family. God was, and will be, kind to him I'm sure.
I've been debating on how to best angle the neck for you. I have two options: angle the heel of the neck or angle the neck pocket. After doing some measuring this moning, the existing heel is too thin and that's been my dilemma. So, I'm leaning toward adding 5 or 6/32" of maple to the heel and then it will have sufficient thickness. Once I have some wood to work with, I could plane it to 3 degrees.
If I were to angle the heel pocket, the neck heel is still too thin. So, having a thicker heel will help. I'll think about it some more before I decide.
I've been wanting to build one of those jigs for doing an angled heel pocket anyway. So I still might go that route.
one could always do the "third option" add about an inch and make it a set neck after fitting it? just a thought. it would cut down on the thickness of the joint, you could still make your jig and it would prolly fit my small hands better, making for better upper fret access. totally your option. to answer a question about setting the neck deep (thickness wise) that you ask in your email last night, setting it deep enough to meet the fretboard to the body is no problem as far as i am concerned. it would cut down on bridge height needed but your layout drawing should make the tale definative.
might make it a bit more resonant and make Uwe happy? the brown note earschplittenloudenboomer player supported my question about differently stringing the same bass this morning so i have to return the favor. he has been very supportive of me in the past.
Yeah, I should be able to do a drawing tonight or tomorrow. I'm keeping all options open! If I were a pro, I'd have it figured out already!!! :P
Quote from: drbassman on February 17, 2011, 09:34:01 AM
Thanks! I'm liking the look. I've never worked with splated maple before. The look of marble is really kinda unique. My only complaint is that it's a little soft, so you do have to be careful. I made the top thicker than I usually do to compensate some for the softness.
It dents very easily.... But i love it......
this is sycamore not maple but close. dents very easily but has a poly finish that gives with it not splinters....
thanks for sharing that picture = loving the look!
what color hardware are you using. i know chrome rules on this site but IMO the black looks great with the spalted woods.
Quote from: jumbodbassman on March 01, 2011, 09:01:19 AM
what color hardware are you using. i know chrome rules on this site but IMO the black looks great with the spalted woods.
He's using black! Good taste, just like yours.
Here's my version of CAD programming for doing neck angles on new builds. I use the PAD system (pencil-aided design). I learned this from a luthier on another forum and it works great.
The body is laid out with the bridge placement marked on top. In this case where the 3 mounting screws will be used to attach it. The height of the bridge is also noted at its lowest adjustment level.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0042_033.jpg)
The neck pocket is measured out: depth and length. A 3 deree angle is marked out for this particular bass.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0044_035.jpg)
Now I can measure from the bridge to the nut on my red neck template for final positioning of the neck in relation to the bridge, including my 3 degree angle. I forgot to include a picture of the yardstick as it runs from the bridge to the nut. I'll include that later tonight!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0045_036.jpg)
I end up with a neck pocket that is 5/8" deep at the top of the heel. No surprises with this method!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0046_037.jpg)
you need to explain more in detail what you are measuring.....
Quote from: jumbodbassman on March 01, 2011, 11:25:26 AM
you need to explain more in detail what you are measuring.....
See above.
The good news is the Schaller bridge will work with the 3 degree neck angle and the Epi neck.
Quote from: drbassman on March 01, 2011, 11:43:06 AM
...The good news is the Schaller bridge will work with the 3 degree neck angle and the Epi neck.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you
Here's a nice view of the neck angle and the fetboard to bridge alignment..............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0049_040.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0047_038.jpg)
Quote from: sniper on March 01, 2011, 01:45:46 PM
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you
As it turns out, 3 degrees really isn't that big a deal!
Quote from: drbassman on March 01, 2011, 10:21:52 AM(pencil-aided design)
Heard the one about the constipated mathematician...? ;D
Quote from: drbassman on March 01, 2011, 02:24:33 PM
As it turns out, 3 degrees really isn't that big a deal!
this should be an extremely easy playing instrument
how does this layout "eye up" to your LP bass body/neck unit?
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on March 01, 2011, 02:37:11 PM
Heard the one about the constipated mathematician...? ;D
A pointed question, indeed. :rimshot:
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on March 01, 2011, 02:37:11 PM
Heard the one about the constipated mathematician...? ;D
Heard the one about the constipated symphony composer?
Quote from: sniper on March 01, 2011, 03:52:30 PM
how does this layout "eye up" to your LP bass body/neck unit?
I'll have to check.
(I'm gonna regret this...) No Dave, ain't heard that one...
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on March 02, 2011, 04:51:51 PM
(I'm gonna regret this...) No Dave, ain't heard that one...
thanks Kenny i just didn't have the balls!
He couldn't finish his last movement.
:rimshot:
(you asked for it!)
Egads!!! BM humor!! I'm tempted to dump this thread. :rimshot:
i have come to think any comments about food, sex (any kind or deviation), body functions or cross dressing as a sign of approval in this place
This brings a new meaning to the term "thread crapping."
Not heard of... nope... best not Kenny-m'boy...
How goes the neck-pocket, Bill...? ;)
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on March 03, 2011, 12:14:39 PM
Not heard of... nope... best not Kenny-m'boy...
How goes the neck-pocket, Bill...? ;)
I'm building a neck angle jig for it. Will post my progress this weekend.
OK, progress is real slow this week. The wife had foot surgery and I've been playing nurse since Thursday. In between that and work, I've been working in the shop to create my neck angle jig. I have motives for doing this as I will also use it to do other angles for tailpieces, etc. I even have an idea for an entirely angled body. Could use it to create a center plate like that on reverse birds. I'm about 80% finished. I have some nifty items for making it adjustable (height of body, width of neck, neck angle) that I'll be doing as I go along. Guess who's first on the jig?
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0056_047.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0059_050.jpg)
I hope your wife has a fast and full recovery. I remember you telling me she was going to have surgery earlier last week when we talked.
The jig looks great and I noticed some threaded inserts laying on the table top. Good on both counts. This is progressing very nicely indeed.
When I bought the tailpiece from Hipshot, the mananger included some new ferrules and washers for the black ultralite tuners I bought off of Mark; the tuners might get changed when the bass shows up here.
:) :)
Cool deal on the tuner parts! The wife is doing fine. Just bored form laying around all day and night.
I hit a snag on the jig. The boards I was using for the router arms are slightly warped and I can't get them trued to save my life. I'm knocking off for the day and going to the lumber yard tomorrow for some decent wood.
Here's how things are shaping up...............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0062_053.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0064_055.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0065_056.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0067_058.jpg)
i noticed the pencil line drawn between the "waist" and the marking outlining the neck rout. is that pencil line the line of where the pole pieces of the pickup are going to be?
Quote from: sniper on March 06, 2011, 05:53:15 PM
i noticed the pencil line drawn between the "waist" and the marking outlining the neck rout. is that pencil line the line of where the pole pieces of the pickup are going to be?
No, that's a line off the center I used to make sure the bottom of the pocket rout is square. I'm always squaring things up to be sure!
I hope to get the jig finished and the pocket routed by Tuesday. Work is such an annoying distraction!
Doc FYI .If you want to be true & have no warping ,cut & laminate. In other words like building a 3 or 5 pc neck . You cut & control which way the grain lines line up giving you a stable base to work with.Could use mdf but that stuff gives me a headache
Quote from: shadowcastaz on March 06, 2011, 08:17:08 PM
Doc FYI .If you want to be true & have no warping ,cut & laminate. In other words like building a 3 or 5 pc neck . You cut & control which way the grain lines line up giving you a stable base to work with.Could use mdf but that stuff gives me a headache
I agree on the lamination but would use 11 ply Scandinavian birch ply or the kind of MDF that is used for signage, it's denser and more stable. I think it's called MDO but it's been a long time since I've bought it.
E-1 MDF won't give you a headache, no formaldehyde in it. Uncommon in the US but it's the only kind you can buy in Europe.
Baltic birch is awesome,good point.Still dont like MDF. :mrgreen:
Yeah, I think I'm gonna go with some laminated stuff. Might have to make it myself. We'll see what I can come up with!
all i could think of is marine grade ply = prolly not a lot of that around anymore, even in boat shops huh?
Quote from: shadowcastaz on March 06, 2011, 08:17:08 PM
Doc FYI .If you want to be true & have no warping ,cut & laminate. In other words like building a 3 or 5 pc neck . You cut & control which way the grain lines line up giving you a stable base to work with.Could use mdf but that stuff gives me a headache
Could I laminate some MDF to my poplar boards to stabilize them? That would be an easy fix!
Quote from: dadagoboi on March 07, 2011, 04:18:16 AM
I agree on the lamination but would use 11 ply Scandinavian birch ply or the kind of MDF that is used for signage, it's denser and more stable. I think it's called MDO but it's been a long time since I've bought it.
E-1 MDF won't give you a headache, no formaldehyde in it. Uncommon in the US but it's the only kind you can buy in Europe.
If I could find this ply, would that be all I needed?
Would garden variety MDF from Home Depot work?
Here's a list of what the local year has. Good variety of plys. Should I go with 3/4" (or so)?
I'd use 1 1/2 inches of baltic birch (2 -3/4" strips glued together). Second choice would be mdf, done the same way.
Opps, here's the list I forgot.
http://www.pittsfordlumber.com/Pittsford_Lumber/price_list.html
Quote from: dadagoboi on March 07, 2011, 03:17:08 PM
I'd use 1 1/2 inches of baltic birch (2 -3/4" strips glued together). Second choice would be mdf, done the same way.
I was hoping to keep it to no more than 1" thick as the thicker the rail, the longer I need the router bits to be. If it takes more I'll just have to do it!
Quote from: drbassman on March 07, 2011, 04:28:33 PM
I was hoping to keep it to no more than 1" thick as the thicker the rail, the longer I need the router bits to be. If it takes more I'll just have to do it!
I'd use 1/2" baltic birch laminated to 1".
Quote from: dadagoboi on March 07, 2011, 05:01:45 PM
I'd use 1/2" baltic birch laminated to 1".
That sounds good. If it isn't rigid enough, I can always add another 1/2". Thanks Carlo.
1/2 "baltic for sure dont worry about the face quality or "face patch" you need stable,not pretty.M
Quote from: shadowcastaz on March 07, 2011, 07:26:38 PM
1/2 "baltic for sure dont worry about the face quality or "face patch" you need stable,not pretty.M
Thanks Mike!
Got the baltic ply, really nice stuff and my local yard sells half and quarter sheets if you don't need full ones. I'll post some pics soon with the jig, it's just about finished. You'll like the results, I did a couple upgrades with some Rockler hardware!
Here's the latest. Tomorrow I'll plane and drill the slats then I can work on the neck pocket. The baltic birch is really nice stuff. Thanks for the advice guys!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0068_059.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0069_060.jpg)
nice jiggem up!
i have been playing with the till.com applet (http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponseDemo/) and with the scale coming in at 32.25 to 32.375 an 8" or halfway pup location between the 12th fret and the bridge saddle on "E" should cover it quite nicely. how would this location work for you? i am trying to miss the bow reinforcement block up by the neck you laid inside!
a friend of mine laid a re-dark star Hagstrom pup out of a Starfire 2 bass that had gone through a flood (all the wood seperated on the SF2!) in his Peavey Fury and loved the sound. he said it had plenty of "mud". i know his pup fluked about 13 and have no idea what the DS2 flukes at. wish i bought that multimeter on sale at NAPA today while i was picking up parts for my old van!
Nice work on that jig!
When you have some time, you should put it up in the home made tools sticky above, with some more details.
Don't worry about the butterfly. I think it's deep and wide enough that it will be fine, even if I rout into it a bit. With a fully glued top and back, I don't think the center joint is going anywhere!
As for the pup placement, it's your call. 8" sounds good, I'll lay it out and post some pics. Gotta do the pocket this weekend in between nursing the better half!
Quote from: sniper on March 11, 2011, 04:48:58 PM
nice jiggem up!
i have been playing with the till.com applet (http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponseDemo/) and with the scale coming in at 32.25 to 32.375 an 8" or halfway pup location between the 12th fret and the bridge saddle on "E" should cover it quite nicely. how would this location work for you? i am trying to miss the bow reinforcement block up by the neck you laid inside!
a friend of mine laid a re-dark star Hagstrom pup out of a Starfire 2 bass that had gone through a flood (all the wood seperated on the SF2!) in his Peavey Fury and loved the sound. he said it had plenty of "mud". i know his pup fluked about 13 and have no idea what the DS2 flukes at. wish i bought that multimeter on sale at NAPA today while i was picking up parts for my old van!
Quote from: Dave W on March 11, 2011, 06:54:40 PM
Nice work on that jig!
When you have some time, you should put it up in the home made tools sticky above, with some more details.
Will do Dave. Thanks!
U gonna luv the t tracks & Baltic,me thinks :mrgreen:
Quote from: shadowcastaz on March 12, 2011, 09:34:23 AM
U gonna luv the t tracks & Baltic,me thinks :mrgreen:
Oh yeah, the tracks are so easy to use and the baltic is straight as an arrow. A lot better than messing with clamps (of course I don't have enough of them!). I laminated a .75 and .50 piece together and it's solid. I'm gonna use some of the remaining .75 for risers for thinner bodies on the jig.
Quote from: shadowcastaz on March 12, 2011, 09:34:23 AM
U gonna luv the t tracks ....
shhhhhh, don't encourage him or the next time we see pics of the tracks he will have 42 clamps per side!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fyr0zbaFyE
(Sorry... thought you said the Cramps...)
Are you sure it wasn't....The Craw?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftgAG3Vnif8
OK, I finally got the jig about finished. I recut the top edge pieces to be more precise and reinstalled the inserts that I buggerred up the first time. All I have left to do is put my 1/8" marking on the tops and finished the riser and I'll be ready to try it out. Sniper's bass won't be the first victim however! Some sad scrap of lumber will have that honor.
It's taken a long time, but I recut several pieces that I wasn't happy with as the thing has to be symmetric and true.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0073_064.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0074_065.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0075_066.jpg)
that looks really cool Bill. just mount the pup on the jig and send it as is, clamp and all. betcha won't be any neck dive on that puppy for sure!
in looking at the bass mocked up in the jig i realize it is not going to be a very long bass and should have good upper fret access i can almost guess just eye balling it.
i have read about precision hand woodworking but have never realized the scope of it until i looked at these pictures. i am in awe.
just looking at picture number 1 of your last three pictures, i get a feeling of how easy it would be to sand the finish off of the neck where it meets the pocket (or what ever your drawing dictates), glue it in deep enough so that the top of the neck fret surface meets and is even the body top where they meet keeping the three degree neck angle, then enlarge and dowl the four screw holes through the neck and into the body while the fretboard is off. 8)
that neck wood is old and is not going to warp. dowling would make it solid and a tone monster. if you have already bought the inserts for attaching a bolt on neck then use three of them to attach the bridge. if i have to send the Warwick bridge as we talked about or the Schaller with the Hipshot tailpiece (i can find another 460, media blast it and have it powder coated black, Hipshot makes tailpieces in black) then so be it. you can still use the inserts to attach the tailpiece in either situation.
throw that black neck plate in the case with the other extra parts or in your parts bin.
this is happiness. ;D
look at your drawing and tell me which bridge to send if the Schaller 463 won't work. i believe in your work and that jigs capabilities!!!
Thanks for the compliments and praise CW, I appreciate it. No problem gluing and doweling the neck. Easy enough to do really, actually easier than messing with the screws and inserts, yada., yada, yada. I don't think we'll need another bridge, the Schaller roller should still be fine. The specs really don't need to change to glue her in, especially with dowels added.
We're good to go. I have to teach the next two nights and will get back at it later this week.
FINALLY got back in the shop today. I've finished the neck angle jig, at last!!!!!! I made a couple improvements, like a sliding rail for the bottom end so I can just use pre-cut shims to block it up and tighten it down with the knobs and embedded carriage bolts. And another improvement, I cut view holes in each end so I could see my center lines from the end not only above.
I'm off to the barn to cut my shims from baltic birch (1" to 1.5" and in between) to get my 2 to 3 degree angles. I have to keep my super dusty table saw out there. Makes for "cool" cutting in the winter around here! We're cooking now!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0097_088.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0099_090.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0096_087.jpg)
OK, got the shims cut and used my new little angle meter to set the slats. We'll cut a test "body" and then the real thing.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0103_094.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0105_096.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0106_097.jpg)
looking good Bill. my computer is down so i have to check online when i can on my neighbors computer. nice work on the jig.
It worked! With a minor problem.......my router bit isn't quite long enough and the diameter is too small. So, I'll pick up a longer/larger bit tomorrow and I should be set. The test shows perfect edges and angle but, the radius on the corners is too small. We'll fix that tomorrow.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0109_100.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0114_105.jpg)
The improved jig look good.
As you said, that's just a minor problem. Buy the bit and you won't have the problem again. And from here on out, whenever you want a new bit, just build a new jig to justify it. :)
Quote from: Dave W on March 21, 2011, 08:25:32 AM
The improved jig look good.
As you said, that's just a minor problem. Buy the bit and you won't have the problem again. And from here on out, whenever you want a new bit, just build a new jig to justify it. :)
Which comes first? The bit or the jig? Chicken or egg?
Bit. Because once you build the jig,& the bit no fit,you get to buy another.The one with the most bits wins! Does not work the same for clamps ,however. :mrgreen:
Quote from: shadowcastaz on March 22, 2011, 06:32:45 AM
Bit. Because once you build the jig,& the bit no fit,you get to buy another.The one with the most bits wins! Does not work the same for clamps ,however. :mrgreen:
Good point! Now, I think I can compete when it comes to clamps!!!!!! :P
I promised my gimpy wife I'd clean house for a couple hours so she'll let me back into my shop later today............ :-\
good man :rolleyes: :mrgreen:
Yep, it worked nice, but I couldn't get the neck pocket routed because the damn router bit is too short. Gonna try to adjust the slats tomorrow, maybe take 1/4 inch or so off the top.
Quote from: drbassman on March 26, 2011, 08:44:47 PM
Yep, it worked nice, but I couldn't get the neck pocket routed because the damn router bit is too short. Gonna try to adjust the slats tomorrow, maybe take 1/4 inch or so off the top.
Things that make ya go "hmmmmmmmmm"
It's always something!!! :-\
FINALLY! I got the neck pocket routed. The jig is really worth the effort and I've got 5 ideas how to improve it (after this bass is finished!). The pocket is 5/8" at the deepest point, as per my drawings. I'll tape the bridge on later and double check it for proper height, angle later in the week.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0118_109.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0120_111.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0121_112.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0124_115.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0125_116.jpg)
Quote from: drbassman on March 27, 2011, 02:45:18 PM
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0121_112.jpg)
WOW the jig did its job for sure. looking fine except i have been blessed with short pudgy little hands and fingers so i would love to see the fret surface of the neck (as it is now without the fretboard) almost meet the face of the body so i can reach around that hog. like this EB:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/chair.jpg)
see where the bottom of the fretboard is almost onto the body at the junction point?
i don't care if the bridge would have to be inset a bit, i have to be able to reach the upper register and a deep set neck (thickness wise) and maybe a sculpted back side around that lower horn bout would sure help.
see what you can figure out when you lay it out later this week would you please? if you can, slam that sucker deep as possible then dowel it when you glue it up.
i know that body is plenty thick and some more glue surface into that hard Ash would be a good thing verses relying on that soft spalted Maple.
i knew i waited two years for the right builder. this online build with all these pictures being posted is showing me things i never thought of.
how does it balance right now?
Well, you're gonna get your wish! I set things up with the neck and bridge taped in place and the neck pock needs to be a good 1/4" deeper. So, we'll meet the bottom of the fret board for sure, maybe even overlap just a mm or 2. It'll look more like that EB than I had planned. I think I didn't allow enough for the fret board/fret thickness when I measured but I was pretty sure I did. If anything, I might have to put a 1/16 or 1/8" block under the bridge to help things along. Man, you should have hired a pro!!! :P
So, it'll go back into the jig for some more routing as soon as I get more time later this week. I'm teaching 4 nights this week! Ugh, work is such an interruption to my real love!!!!
BTW, the dowels will work just fine when I glue it up and the balance looks good. I'll check that again after the next routing.
Edit: here's a slope chart
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/52066983/Slope-Conversion-Tables
i know it is a combination of factors: depth of the pocket, bridge adjustment, type etc and this build might not support a 3 degree neck angle but i am sure Bill will get as much as he can be it 2, 2.5 or 3 degrees. it is simply what it is. ;)
nice new avatar Carlo
Quote from: dadagoboi on March 27, 2011, 05:23:15 PM
Edit: here's a slope chart
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/52066983/Slope-Conversion-Tables
Thanks Carlo, that will come in handy.
Quote from: sniper on March 27, 2011, 05:47:00 PM
i know it is a combination of factors: depth of the pocket, bridge adjustment, type etc and this build might not support a 3 degree neck angle but i am sure Bill will get as much as he can be it 2, 2.5 or 3 degrees. it is simply what it is. ;)
nice new avatar Carlo
We'll be fine. Before routing, I reduced the angle from 3 degrees to about 2.5. I just didn't think the bridge could handle and I was correct. Once I rout deeper, I think it's gonna be a nice fit all the way around.
a lot of that "body meets fretboard look" will disappear when you round the edges of the body
Quote from: sniper on March 28, 2011, 08:37:57 PM
a lot of that "body meets fretboard look" will disappear when you round the edges of the body
I agree. And the "look" will be fine as well since you'll get good fret access with the neck deep into the body. Form follows function, as Bucky used to say!
I love Bucky but IMO he was not a strict adherent to the philosophy. Dymaxion was probably the worst example.
Mar 20,2011 from Articleworld:
"Form follows function is one of the long-standing slogans of modern architecture. Its use was pioneered by turn-of-the-century skyscraper architect Louis Sullivan, complemented by Adolf Loos's 1908 assertion that 'Ornament is crime', adapted by Frank Lloyd Wright and adopted by Modernists and Bauhaus desginers such as Mies van der Rohe ('Less is more'), Walter Groupius etc. Originally meant to be defiantly honest – let the form of a building or product result from its function and no more – and anti-style, it eventually evolved into yet another set of un-interrogated conventions, and is now being both challenged and re-worked."
Quote from: dadagoboi on March 29, 2011, 07:39:59 AM
I love Bucky but IMO he was not a strict adherent to the philosophy. Dymaxion was probably the worst example.
Mar 20,2011 from Articleworld:
"Form follows function is one of the long-standing slogans of modern architecture. Its use was pioneered by turn-of-the-century skyscraper architect Louis Sullivan, complemented by Adolf Loos's 1908 assertion that 'Ornament is crime', adapted by Frank Lloyd Wright and adopted by Modernists and Bauhaus desginers such as Mies van der Rohe ('Less is more'), Walter Groupius etc. Originally meant to be defiantly honest – let the form of a building or product result from its function and no more – and anti-style, it eventually evolved into yet another set of un-interrogated conventions, and is now being both challenged and re-worked."
True. Any axiom or concept can (and sometimes should) be bent. Then there's the folks who take it to the extreme, e.g. the Bauhaus movement.
Quote from: drbassman on March 29, 2011, 07:47:43 AM
True. Any axiom or concept can (and sometimes should) be bent. Then there's the folks who take it to the extreme, e.g. the Bauhaus movement.
Do you think that Gropius was extreme enough to have designed one of those singlecut basses with the big deformed hump? ;)
Having tried to sit in some of the chairs that Frank Lloyd Wright designed, I would assert that his forms did NOT always follow function.
That said, I find him to be the greatest "eye" of any architect/designer in US history.
Proof that humans can find beauty in many bizarre designs!!!!!
Quote from: drbassman on March 29, 2011, 07:47:43 AM
True. Any axiom or concept can (and sometimes should) be bent. Then there's the folks who take it to the extreme, e.g. the Bauhaus movement.
Quote from: Dave W on March 29, 2011, 08:50:41 AM
Do you think that Gropius was extreme enough to have designed one of those singlecut basses with the big deformed hump? ;)
That's an example of Outhaus design.
The Bauhaus attempted to simplify design to its most elegant, functional, undecorated form. Unfortunately not what the masses want and very expensive to produce.
Most of buildings at RIT (Rochester Institute of Technology), where I taught for 12 years, were built in the mid-60's with a Bauhus "flair." One of the ugliest campuses in the US! Unless you're into squares, rectangles and boxes.
Hey Sniper, I made an adjustment when I started routing the neck pocket and forgot to mention it! Hope you don't fire me! When I set up the jig, I routed the neck pocket at the 17th. fret because I felt the neck fit and looked better at that point. It's less than .75" difference, but when I laid the bridge and fretboard on, I really liked the look and where the heel on the back of the neck came out. It will give you a little better high register access and the balance is still really nice thus far. Hope it's OK by you!
Still fits in the case perfectly too!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0128_119.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0126_117.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0127_118.jpg)
Forgot to mention that I am sinking the neck in a little deeper and finishing up the neck pocket this week end. Then we rout for the pup and control cavity and get serious again!
okay, your fired. undo everything and send it back. ;D ;D
it couldn't fit in that case much finer and its okay about the repositioning. not a problem, it looks sexy right!
how thick is that body?
now i will not have to have you contour the back of that neck joint and it will leave enough Ash for the dowels to take a good purchase in that part of the neck and still have great upper register access. ;D ;D
those chambers, the cross bracing, the Mahogany skunk stripe, the soft top and those dowels should make this a tone monster!
i should post pics of the new body i bought recently for my sculpted gold top bass build. creme binding, one 60's bucker and a Dimarzio G (creme color) in a chrome creme trim ring, with the chrome Warwick bridge and chrome Schaller tuners.
Thanks sniper! More pictures to follow this weekend.
Post some pics of your new body!
Neck pocket finished!
Tell me again where you want the pup rout.
should intonate about 32.25" to 32.375" (32.092" scale plus string width plus a little for flats)
32" scale, poles at 24" from nut or 8" from bridge saddles (in swimming pool route with poles towards head). when one reverses the pickup (which is possible in swimming pool rout ... the template measurments i sent) then the poles will be a little less than 8" from the saddles ... poles towards bridge
Quote from: sniper on April 02, 2011, 03:37:45 PM
should intonate about 32.25" to 32.375" (32.092" scale plus string width plus a little for flats)
32" scale, poles at 24" from nut or 8" from bridge saddles (in swimming pool route with poles towards head). when one reverses the pickup (which is possible in swimming pool rout ... the template measurments i sent) then the poles will be a little less than 8" from the saddles ... poles towards bridge
Just got home from a wedding. I'll call ya tomorrow. We're beat. Going to bed.
Quote from: sniper on April 02, 2011, 03:37:45 PM
should intonate about 32.25" to 32.375" (32.092" scale plus string width plus a little for flats)
32" scale, poles at 24" from nut or 8" from bridge saddles (in swimming pool route with poles towards head). when one reverses the pickup (which is possible in swimming pool rout ... the template measurments i sent) then the poles will be a little less than 8" from the saddles ... poles towards bridge
Send that routing diagram again, I can't find it in my crappy Roadrunner email. Thanks!
Here it is laid out with poles at 24" from the nut. I love it! Looks really cool, like the ole EB mudbucker up against the neck. Very cool look IMHO.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0130_121.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0131_122.jpg)
Here tiz!
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/-3envelopeREVA.jpg)
that placement is what the Tillman app showed to be a gooder spot.
the gooder link > http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponseDemo/
excuse me please, i hear a plate of biscuits and gravy calling me.
Oh yeah, thanks! I did save the Till site before. I'm just not experienced with it yet.
Printed out the routing diagram, I'm gonna make a template for your bass and future use.
Back with some pics of the logo install.
Biscuits and gravy!?! Man, I'd kill for something like that for breakfast. I had honeydew melon to make up for all of the food and booze at the wedding yesterday!!! :toast:
I wouldn't take the Till app as gospel. It can be helpful in general to show what happens when you move a pickup around, but it makes a certain set of assumptions about the frequency response of the pickup that may be quite a bit different from the pickup you're using.
Quote from: Dave W on April 03, 2011, 09:48:34 AM
I wouldn't take the Till app as gospel. It can be helpful in general to show what happens when you move a pickup around, but it makes a certain set of assumptions about the frequency response of the pickup that may be quite a bit different from the pickup you're using.
A+ Dave. it is the nature of an instrument for freq changes to occur.
it took me awhile to figure the app out (longer than i want to admit anyways) but, the key to getting a "general" idea about pup placement with it is: try to locate the pup where the "bumps" are larger and do not "dip" as muck as possible on the fretboard and getting the pup at the top of one of the "bumps" before the epihany came to me to try and do both.
as for the placement, it might change Dave. looking at the photo, it appears that on a line projection, the strings might come too close to the edge of the fretboard in order to cut the poles on center with the present placement. Bill is checking it out today. there are a number of things besides the app to consider.
of course that board might still need to be narrowed a bit.
I had a play to attend, but before we left, I measured the pole placement with a straight edge and the strings will be right over them with the pup up next to the heel. It won't be a problem. And that board is a perfect fit, not much trimming needed at all. I'll try to take some pictures of it when I have a minute. Got company coming over in 5 minutes!
;D
i love it when a plan comes together
Quote from: sniper on April 03, 2011, 04:57:16 PM
;D
i love it when a plan comes together
Me too! Double checked the pole and string placement. Looks good, I'll post pics tomorrow. Off to bed!
I lined things up with some strings and the pup placement at the heel of the neck is fine. One of the things I love about this Schaller bridge is the adjustable saddles. I can line those strings up just about anywhere and nail the poles. So, you're good if that's the placement you want. I think it's gonna work fine.
I'll finish the pup rout template and get going on that! Sometime this week I'll glue and dowel the neck after routing is finished.
BTW, how's the logo look?
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0135_126.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0137_128.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0138_129.jpg)
logo looks fine like it belongs there. might have to scoot it towards the bridge just a smidge = line up the top of the logo with the tallest part of the smaller bout. make a bit of room for the radii of the body edge.
looking right all around Bill, i'm liking that EB placement a lot.
give me your ideas on the "rounding of the edges" of the body ... what radii?
btw ... how does the body sound when you "thump" it?
i hope you are getting as anxious to play that as i am
Quote from: sniper on April 04, 2011, 07:06:33 AM
logo looks fine like it belongs there. might have to scoot it towards the bridge just a smidge = line up the top of the logo with the tallest part of the smaller bout. make a bit of room for the radii of the body edge.
looking right all around Bill, i'm liking that EB placement a lot.
give me your ideas on the "rounding of the edges" of the body ... what radii?
btw ... how does the body sound when you "thump" it?
Will do the move on the logo. Pup placement is good to go.
I have a set of round over bits, so whatever radius you want, I probably can do. WHat would you like? A sharper or softer edge? It's your bass.
It sounds hollow, but more soild when you tap it. The beauty of enlcose chambers!
Quote from: sniper on April 04, 2011, 08:39:26 AM
i hope you are getting as anxious to play that as i am
Oh yeah, it will get a long trial run on the Mesa when finished!! 8)
Quote from: drbassman on April 04, 2011, 12:05:21 PM
I have a set of round over bits, so whatever radius you want, I probably can do. WHat would you like? A sharper or softer edge? It's your bass.
Imma thimpkin that a softer edge both front and back would be fine. I know the sharper edges are more inline with an LP but comfort goes a long way with me.
Wouldn't a softer edge also be better with the softer spalted wood top?
Quote from: sniper on April 04, 2011, 06:57:25 PM
Imma thimpkin that a softer edge both front and back would be fine. I know the sharper edges are more inline with an LP but comfort goes a long way with me.
I agree. I'll post some samples using my round over bits. Gotta teach tonight, probably tomorrow or Thursday.
Quote from: Dave W on April 04, 2011, 09:08:32 PM
Wouldn't a softer edge also be better with the softer spalted wood top?
A+ Dave
Just a little tinkering before I go into the office. I got the pup template finished. Also set the control plate on and repositioned the logo just for grins. What do you think? I kinda like it, but it's your call..............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0141_132.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0142_133.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0140_131.jpg)
yeah, i see what you are getting at. we are running out of room on the smaller upper bout aren't we?
i kind of like it too. the bigger upper bout could be a choice also. either you choose or we put it to a vote amongst the posters. it is your logo and i think a "balanced" effect would look good with it on the bigger upper bout. but have fun.
the finished effect inline with the strings and bridge is awesome and would show a lot more than if it were on the big bout (not being covered by my arm when i play). if you put it on the upper big bout, rotate it 90 degrees counterclockwise so it would be readable while playing and set it deep so it is even with the front surface. it is going to look good either location. if you leave it, then do it exactly like you show it = inline with the strings.
Since you asked, I don't think the logo looks right down there. Larger upper bout would look better if it wouldn't get in the way of anything else. But I really don't want to influence your decision.
I think the logo is ok at the bottom. what about in between the bridge & pickup?
Quote from: ramone57 on April 06, 2011, 10:55:32 AM
I think the logo is ok at the bottom. what about in between the bridge & pickup?
I didn't think of that. Let me try it when I get home.
Quote from: ramone57 on April 06, 2011, 10:55:32 AM
I think the logo is ok at the bottom. what about in between the bridge & pickup?
I was wondering the same thing.
Ditto! :mrgreen: I still like the upper small bout ,on an angle so its horizontal when hangin 'round the neck
OK, here are all 4 possibilities. I hate to say, as much as I love my own logo ;D, I think the bass looks better without it!! Who knew??? What do you guys think?
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0144_135.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0145_136.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0146_137.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0147_138.jpg)
I also got the pup rout done and guess what? The damn thing has to be so deep, it wiped out my bowtie! I didn't realize it has to be a full 1" deep. Oh well, with a solid top and bottom, I don't fear any separation at the middle seams. It's always something!
I'm also considering using a fret board (one of your you sent me Sniper) with an extra fret so I get a little overhang at the end of the heel pocket rout and a better fit against the edge of the pup. We're getting there!
Here's the roundover I'm proposing to use.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0153_144.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0159_150.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0157_148.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0160_151.jpg)
I have to agree, Bill. too bad there's not enough room on the hockey stick headstock for the logo. got any smaller ones?
PS, I forgot to answer your question from a bunch of back posts: the body is 1 5/8" thick.
Quote from: ramone57 on April 07, 2011, 07:29:57 AM
I have to agree, Bill. too bad there's not enough room on the hockey stick headstock for the logo. got any smaller ones?
Nope, one size fits all!!!
1) i agree with both of you, it looks better without. goodbye pretty logo, i have your serial number anyways.
2) with the butterfly gone and the solid top over the joint AND the fact that the neck heel is spanning the joint and is going to be doweled makes the butterfly redundant anyways. we live and learn.
3) the roundover looks good. is it 3/8" radii? use it on the back too if it works asthetically.
4) the fretboard extension looks good. that fretboard almost does touch the body ... wow. i knew it would be close when you told me i sent the wrong bridge type. makes it look more like an LP.
I think it looks fine on the upper bass side bout. Maybe because I'm used to seeing a switch there when it's a Les Paul style guitar. But if you think it looks better without, go for it.
Quote from: sniper on April 07, 2011, 09:23:07 AM
1) i agree with both of you, it looks better without. goodbye pretty logo, i have your serial number anyways.
2) with the butterfly gone and the solid top over the joint AND the fact that the neck heel is spanning the joint and is going to be doweled makes the butterfly redundant anyways. we live and learn.
3) the roundover looks good. is it 3/8" radii? use it on the back too if it works asthetically.
4) the fretboard extension looks good. that fretboard almost does touch the body ... wow. i knew it would be close when you told me i sent the wrong bridge type. makes it look more like an LP.
1. Yep, no logo.
2. Good point about the dowels.
3. I think it's 3/8", I'll measure it tonight. I'm starting off with a smaller radii on the back to see how it looks since it's a thinner cap than the top.
4. I'm really happy with the neck and fretboard now.
after this afternoon i feel sort of empty. i have been so looking forward to seeing that logo on the build it is making me feel this way knowing it won't be there.
we have to put it on Bill. i got the builder i wanted (you) and it has been a learning experience for me due in no small part because of your patience with me and the quality of your work you demonstrate.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0145_136.jpg)
here is my choice.
final answer.
No problem!!! It's always your call. I just didn't want it to look crowded or cover up too much grain. I'll put 'er on!
Maybe place it between bridge and pickup?
Line it up vertically with the bridge and control plate?
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0145_136.jpg)
Quote from: sniper on April 07, 2011, 05:52:57 PM
after this afternoon i feel sort of empty. i have been so looking forward to seeing that logo on the build it is making me feel this way knowing it won't be there.
we have to put it on Bill. i got the builder i wanted (you) and it has been a learning experience for me due in no small part because of your patience with me and the quality of your work you demonstrate.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0145_136.jpg)
here is my choice.
final answer.
OK, we'll put it here on the upper bout. Do you want it lined up with the bridge or offset a little. Again, anyway you want it is fine with me.
Im really liking your logo Doc. :mrgreen:
Quote from: dadagoboi on April 08, 2011, 03:37:54 AM
Line it up vertically with the bridge and control plate?
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0145_136.jpg)
line it up vertically, center of bridge (front to back) = center of logo
the control plate already looks centered in this picture
thanks for the suggestion Carlo
OK. How's this? Centered!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0162_153.jpg)
Here's the roundover and I routed the control cavity too! I do think the roundover is 3/8" and it looks nice, especially after some sanding/smoothing on the top edge.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0164_155.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0166_157.jpg)
Quote from: drbassman on April 08, 2011, 07:11:44 AM
OK. How's this? Centered!
looks fine Doc. loving those edges too.
you are getting serious about how fast this is progressng now.
Quote from: sniper on April 08, 2011, 10:38:44 AM
looks fine Doc. loving those edges too.
you are getting serious about how fast this is progressng now.
Thanks! I am really in the home stretch now. Just had to get past the angled neck pocket! I only had one chance to get 'er right! ;D The edges are gonna be really cool. I'll probably have all of the logo install, edges finished, ash filled and stained by Sunday night!!! I'm hoping, anyway. 8) Actually, the neck install will be easy too with 4 dowels and some glue. Pretty straight forward. I have some trimming to do on the fretboard before install and I might install the frets before I glue it on. It's a lot easier that way.
now i am getting to change my desktop picture every few days ... 8).
one can see that neck angle above in picture number 2 where the Ash meets the Maple. the angle shows up well there.
i hope the jig you made proves priceless in future builds you do. i am sure it will.
lovin that set neck. can you put a release on the neck joint like on a Remington 700 clip? i pity any luthier who has to remove it for any reason.
i like intonation to a fine RCH (means Red Cat Hair ... i think!) and an action to two RCH's high with no buzzies. thats what i like about growing old = one forgets things and age destroys any complexes about guilty feelings for past sins. lol
NJ Katwoman i love ya angel even though we haven't seen each other in the better part of 20 years.
If the logo goes there it will be hidden when in use - the LP "switch" slot looks the place for me - just looks natural - if not there behind the bridge...?
Dont know if i lost something in the thread, but couldn't you just put it on the headstock?
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on April 08, 2011, 02:39:06 PM
If the logo goes there it will be hidden when in use - the LP "switch" slot looks the place for me - just looks natural - if not there behind the bridge...?
I agree but that's not a big deal for me. I muddied the waters by experimenting with placement all over the body and then I just took it off and liked that too! It's really Sniper's call where, or if, he wants it. I'm fine with any place.
Quote from: Iome on April 08, 2011, 02:58:41 PM
Dont know if i lost something in the thread, but couldn't you just put it on the headstock?
I tried, but its too big.
Quote from: sniper on April 08, 2011, 02:27:57 PM
now i am getting to change my desktop picture every few days ... 8).
one can see that neck angle above in picture number 2 where the Ash meets the Maple. the angle shows up well there.
i hope the jig you made proves priceless in future builds you do. i am sure it will.
lovin that set neck. can you put a release on the neck joint like on a Remington 700 clip? i pity any luthier who has to remove it for any reason.
i like intonation to a fine RCH (means Red Cat Hair ... i think!) and an action to two RCH's high with no buzzies. thats what i like about growing old = one forgets things and age destroys any complexes about guilty feelings for past sins. lol
NJ Katwoman i love ya angel even though we haven't seen each other in the better part of 20 years.
Hopefully, the jig will come in handy over time!
i have no vote, but I keep coming back to placement between pickup and bridge. Just FWIW.
It is amazing how diverse our tastes are here! We share a lot of things, but we rarely can agree on aesthetics.
'go with the force young skydoktor" :vader:
Quote from: drbassman on April 08, 2011, 08:22:42 PM
It is amazing how diverse our tastes are here! We share a lot of things, but we rarely can agree on aesthetics.
Ain't it true??? I'm constantly amazed that there are so many T-bird fans here, considering the diverse tastes in equipment.
OK, I'm on my way back to the shop with my camera. I have decided that ash is officially the last wood I'll ever use on a bass!!! Actually, it's not that bad, but man is it hard to sand! No wonder they make baseball bats out of it.
The real issue is it won't take my walnut stain for beans. It soaks into the grain and just sits on top of the rest of the wood. Pictures in a few minutes! ASH IS A BITCH!!! In the first pic you can see the plain sanded ash. The second is with the DARK walnut stain soaking into the grain and not doing anything to the rest of the wood!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0175_166.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0174_165.jpg)
I'm thinking that it might be best to grain fill the entire bass (I have to do that anyway) and clear coat it. staining the ash is not going to end on a happy note I fear.
The roundovers went well today (at least something did)! All cut and sanded.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0176_167.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0177_168.jpg)
What kind of stain are you using? Aniline dye type stain works much better than oil base on ash. If it's difficult to sand you're dealing with northern ash. Swamp ash is very soft, similar to soft pines like white and sugar.
Bats are made from northern ash, basses generally swamp ash.
Quote from: dadagoboi on April 09, 2011, 12:49:22 PM
What kind of stain are you using? Aniline dye type stain works much better than oil base on ash. If it's difficult to sand you're dealing with northern ash. Swamp ash is very soft, similar to soft pines like white and sugar.
Bats are made from northern ash, basses generally swamp ash.
It may be the dye, as you say. I'll give that some thought. As for this ash, I wouldn't be afraid to stand in the batter's box and take a few pitches with this baby!
The 1st builds I ever did was 2 tele thinlines out of ash. I did them in a golden/natural. Ill have to ask the guy I made it for how it looks. Ive made furniture & picture frames from it. I have not worked with it for a while
BTW, all those 2 and 3 tone sunburst Fenders were done completely with sprayed toner, not stain. In fact almost all 'stained' wood instrument production finishes are toner.
Here you go Doc: http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm
This is the liquid but it comes as powder as well. Not only can you mix this with water and alcohol but you can mix it with lacquer thinner and other solvents to make your toners and such. Woodcraft carries both the liquid and powder forms.
Quote from: Lightyear on April 09, 2011, 02:05:27 PM
Here you go Doc: http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm
This is the liquid but it comes as powder as well. Not only can you mix this with water and alcohol but you can mix it with lacquer thinner and other solvents to make your toners and such. Woodcraft carries both the liquid and powder forms.
I've got some of that in dark brown that I use for tinting my filler. Which is the better medium to mix it with?
I'm guessing water is easier to work with. I use this stuff, it can also be used to tone lacquer. I mix the colors I need now from red, blue, yellow and black but I used to have gallons of about 8 colors when I had the furniture biz.
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=178
Water raises the grain but alcohol dries faster. I would read up on their website and experiment a bit. I seem to recall that they suggest water to start with as it's a bit more forgiving.
Thanks guys! The tint was the trick. Here's the tinted ash. Tomorrow we'll do some tinted grain filling!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0178_169.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0180_171.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0181_172.jpg)
i am impressed, that Ash grain is looking beautiful doc. thanks.
Quote from: sniper on April 09, 2011, 07:39:20 PM
i am impressed, that Ash grain is looking beautiful doc. thanks.
I'm pleased with it. I like the look much better than natural. I've been thinking about the maple and I was wondering how it would look with the slightest tint to it. I might try a little on a scrap I have tomorrow.
i was just looking at your tint pics and was wondering how a little yellow tint would look on the Maple? whadyathimpk?
Quote from: sniper on April 09, 2011, 08:25:35 PM
i was just looking at your tint pics and was wondering how a little yellow tint would look on the Maple? whadyathimpk?
I'll see what I can stir up.
nice fix :vader:
Quote from: shadowcastaz on April 10, 2011, 06:06:59 AM
nice fix :vader:
Just happened to have the right stuff. Thanks to the reminder from Lightyear.
Guess what I did on the bass today? NOTHING! I discovered a leaking toilet before church, so I've been working on that and taxes all afternoon. UGH! Maybe some action in the shop later.............. :-[
OK, the toilet is reinstalled and the taxes are finished! Whoohoo! ;D
Now, I got into the shop and I mixed up some Transtint with some Bartley's filler, ended up with chocolate pudding!!! :P Yesterday, I just wasn't so sure about the dye on the ash, but after today, man I am loving it!!! Of course, I'm biased about my own work. Doh!
Here's the progression from pudding to wipe off on the filler. I also took a piece of splatted maple and tinted it with Fender neck amber to see if it would look good against the walnut. I think it's nice but I'm still liking the light cream color of the maple. The dark grain lines really pop against the natural wood.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0183_174.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0189_180.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0191_182.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0187_178.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0188_179.jpg)
i like the cream best ... you are right Bill. ;D ;D
Lookin' veeery nice...
Nice job . Id go cream as much as I like the yellow tint. The top will change in time. walnut looks great. I have some Claro around this place somewhere.
That worked very well on the ash.
No tint on the maple looks best to me.
i've never had my Ash tinted before; however, my grandson was born with a blue butt!
Quote from: sniper on April 11, 2011, 09:03:12 AM
i've never had my Ash tinted before; however, my grandson was born with a blue butt!
:rimshot:
Quote from: sniper on April 11, 2011, 09:03:12 AM
i've never had my Ash tinted before; however, my grandson was born with a blue butt!
Hauled, not tinted, eh?
Quote from: Pilgrim on April 11, 2011, 09:12:40 AM
Hauled, not tinted, eh?
There's an expression you don't hear much any more.
Quote from: sniper on April 11, 2011, 09:03:12 AM
i've never had my Ash tinted before; however, my grandson was born with a blue butt!
Hmmmmmmm.....who would know if your ash was tinted??? :o
Quote from: drbassman on April 11, 2011, 09:33:56 AM
Hmmmmmmm.....who would know if your ash was tinted??? :o
true doc, very true. lol
the logo pacement has been resolved between the doc and i but the results will be not be revealed until the doc posts
pictures. thanks for all your input players.
as it should be. can't for the unveiling!
Good news, bad news. The walnut turned out perfect after sanding. The ash had sand through issues all over. The dye is just sitting on the surface, not really soaking in. So, I'm probably gonna have to sand the edges down and start over. Oh boy.......
might be a reason Leo painted all those Benderzenders? ???
Quote from: sniper on April 11, 2011, 08:28:49 PM
might be a reason Leo painted all those Benderzenders? ???
I think you might have something there. I'm gonna sand it back and see what I can do. I definitely dont have the right materials. Natural might be the best way to go.
The walnut took the sealer without any trouble. It's gonna be beautiful when finished.
that would make sense, you have went to a lot of trouble to give this build an excellent natural contrast in woods.
Thanks Sniper. I have to teach tonight and tomorrow evening, so I'll get back to it Thursday or so.
Ash is not easy. Fill, seal, tone is the way it was done in the '50s. In the 80s-90s I used dye stain, sanding sealer and catalyzed lacquer/poly because I wanted the grain contrast in the furniture I was doing.
Quote from: dadagoboi on April 12, 2011, 07:13:28 AM
Ash is not easy. Fill, seal, tone is the way it was done in the '50s. In the 80s-90s I used dye stain, sanding sealer and catalyzed lacquer/poly because I wanted the grain contrast in the furniture I was doing.
Well, I won't voluntarily select it as a wood for any of my own future basses. I'm perfectly happy with mahogany, maple, alder and basswood.
Quote from: drbassman on April 12, 2011, 08:32:12 AM
Well, I won't voluntarily select it as a wood for any of my own future basses. I'm perfectly happy with mahogany, maple, alder and basswood.
amen. next time i will spend more than 20$ for a body. i have seen the Oracle about this matter.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Screen%20shots/theoracle.jpg)
Quote from: sniper on April 12, 2011, 11:05:03 AM
amen. next time i will spend more than 20$ for a body. i have seen the Oracle about this matter.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Screen%20shots/theoracle.jpg)
Wow, I think I might have to consult the Oracle!!! :P
been playing with my new DVD software and taking screen shots ... that one is from the movie "300".
this one is from "young frankenstein" where the Dr. meets his new lab assistant:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/Screen%20shots/DrFrankensteinmeetshisnewassistant.jpg)
i almost forgot, i wrote a prose a few years back about Leonidas at Thermopylae:
Leonidas at Thermopylae
By
Claro
I live to spill you completely
Delicious is my gift to you
Your blood is bitter and pungent
I am sweet to a righteous tongue
Your blindness is unknown to you
Your power comes from fear for your life
My freedom is my lust
Your prison is your ignorance
My spirit is not yours to judge
I will stand with my brothers
Good or evil I embrace either
The more to give me strength
One or one thousand is naught
My sleep is in the lap of my Gods
Copyright ã 2004
Clarence W. Andrews, Webb City, Missouri
All rights Reserved
This piece of prose was an attempt to show the Hedonism and hatred for the enemy by the Pagan belief's of King Leonidas the night before he was going to die.
Beautiful CW, my writing is purely academic and not very poetic! Well done.
8)
OK, we're back! Went to New Oeleans for 5 days to enjoy some 85 degree weather! Very cool town, lots to see and do, and eat. Back to work next week, ugh!!! Gonna enjoy this weekend and work on the bass some.
welcome back. i have been enjoying the 90+ weather here in Pecos. :-\
Quote from: sniper on April 22, 2011, 10:15:16 AM
welcome back. i have been enjoying the 90+ weather here in Pecos. :-\
Wow, 90! We really liked the "spring" weather in NO. Only got humid the last day.
I got the logo installed and all of the routing finished. I'll post some pics later. Gonna drill the control plate and grain fill the sanded edges with clear filler next.
So far today............
Logo finished.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0284_275.jpg)
Holes for dowels drilled. Hope you never want to remove it! I only had 3/8" dowels, so they were the winners. Couldn't get the ejector to fit in the pocket!!! :P
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0286_277.jpg)
I'll finish the control plate later and do some more grain filling tonight.
when you glue the fretboard, use some type of glue that an be heated so as to be able to remove the fretboard if needed. hyde glue?
might give someone in the future a clue by writing "doweled neck, remove fretboard to remove dowels" then gluing a small piece of paper that says such at the bottom of the pup pocket. just in case. an idea that i got from my orthodontist who put my name on my dentures that way.
round the treble outside corner of the neck pocket just a smidge so i don't amputate my left hand trying to reach the upper registers. that corner looks a little sharp.
i am getting real excited about this now, that logo looks great there = it had to be in that spot. good work.
think i'll try to start getting the parts together for the gold carved top build so i can do some layout shots. might be awhile though, just dropped over 1700+ in my fathers old van and i have never approached you about building it. i have talked with Bruce Johnson about the neck on it but am still undecided. he shot me a price about doing the build less the cost of a finish.
i'm seriously thinking a Florida paint job would work for me but again i have not approached "spray" about it. he is a real busy guy these days but a fellow would have to travel far to find as smooth a finished paint job.
Well, I've only used Titebond and everything I've read and seen shows it's removable via warm moist heat. The hide glues are very touchy and having never used them, I'm not ready to experiement on your neck. So, if it's all the same to you, I'll use the Titebond original and make a note of the dowels/glue on a note in the pup cavity. It should be fine. With a new rod and a flat neck to start with, I'm expecting the finished product to last quite a while.
I'll make sure the edge of the neck pocket isn't a problem for you. Over and out!
Quote from: sniper on April 24, 2011, 01:59:12 PM
when you glue the fretboard, use some type of glue that an be heated so as to be able to remove the fretboard if needed. hyde glue?
might give someone in the future a clue by writing "doweled neck, remove fretboard to remove dowels" then gluing a small piece of paper that says such at the bottom of the pup pocket. just in case. an idea that i got from my orthodontist who put my name on my dentures that way.
round the treble outside corner of the neck pocket just a smidge so i don't amputate my left hand trying to reach the upper registers. that corner looks a little sharp.
i am getting real excited about this now, that logo looks great there = it had to be in that spot. good work.
think i'll try to start getting the parts together for the gold carved top build so i can do some layout shots. might be awhile though, just dropped over 1700+ in my fathers old van and i have never approached you about building it. i have talked with Bruce Johnson about the neck on it but am still undecided. he shot me a price about doing the build less the cost of a finish.
i'm seriously thinking a Florida paint job would work for me but again i have not approached "spray" about it. he is a real busy guy these days but a fellow would have to travel far to find as smooth a finished paint job.
IMHO hide glue is way overrated for general guitar work. Too much water in it to glue a relatively thin fretboard down without warping. Titebond has water in it too but not near as much. As Bill said, it can be removed with steam and heat.
The hide glue proponents always talk about how it doesn't move while Titebond does. To my simple mind, an inflexible joint on a neck is a bug, not a feature. Necks move, you want a glue joint with a little flexibility.
Logo looks great there.
i'm sure glad my builder knows what i need before i think of it. i might have him putting windshield wipers on a ducks butt if it were left to me! lol
Quote from: sniper on April 24, 2011, 09:13:45 PM
i'm sure glad my builder knows what i need before i think of it. i might have him putting windshield wipers on a ducks butt if it were left to me! lol
Who knows, the duck might like it! :o
there isn't very much left to change on this build, options are running out fast. i believe it is time to let the master spice the dish to perfection ... in other words i'm excusing myself.
great job Bill.
Quote from: sniper on April 25, 2011, 10:33:31 AM
there isn't very much left to change on this build, options are running out fast. i believe it is time to let the master spice the dish to perfection ... in other words i'm excusing myself.
great job Bill.
Thanks CW, I'm gonna get creative with the knobs on the control plate. Instead of a straight line across the middle, I'm gonna mount the knobs and jack in an arc following the lower contour. It looks really cool that way.
My West-Country buddy's wife works as a home-help for the elderly - he nicknames her "Buttwash"... ;D
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on April 26, 2011, 04:26:40 PM
My West-Country buddy's wife works as a home-help for the elderly - he nicknames her "Buttwash"... ;D
He is either a very brave or very bruised man.
Yes... ;D
Both!
He's a (early) retired archaeologist and knows how to get himself into/out of a hole - the common joke we have is, as he persistently winds his daughter up (and she can give as good as it gets - found an injured fox on her way home from work and calmly dispatched it with a knife by cutting it's throat), she'll get to choose which home he goes into... :o
The oddest bit about our respective families is that they are as carnivoristic as we are vegetarian... (hmm... carnivores tend to eat vegetarians...) just seems to work... ;)
Been out with a lot of carnivorous girls, never considered becoming a vegetarian though. Maybe I need to rethink this situation ;) ;D
:o
Work stopage, daughter in town for the weekend. Back later..............
OK, back in the saddle. Will sand filler and finish control plate tonight. Might even glue the neck in too!
;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: sniper on May 04, 2011, 07:39:20 AM
;D ;D ;D ;D
Man, I'm feeling so out of it. Sorry it's been such a long hiatus.
Quote from: drbassman on May 04, 2011, 09:32:55 AM
Man, I'm feeling so out of it. Sorry it's been such a long hiatus.
take all the time you need. happy builders make happy basses. ;D ;D
Here ya go! Filler is sanded. Neck doweled and glued on. Control plate cut and drilled. Gonna have to rout out the control cavity a little more. The pot shafts are too tall (using your vintage harness) and will need some washers on the back to drop them down a quarter inch or so.
Will plane the fret board a little thinnner and install the frets this weekend. Then, install the truss rod and glue the board onto the neck.
Then we start thinking about some S&S and top coats............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0298_289.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0299_290.jpg)
Quote from: drbassman on May 04, 2011, 05:29:39 PM
Gonna have to rout out the control cavity a little more. The pot shafts are too tall (using your vintage harness) and will need some washers on the back to drop them down a quarter inch or so.
Take it to Walnut if you have to.
Quote from: sniper on May 05, 2011, 09:23:25 AM
Take it to Walnut if you have to.
Shouldn't have to go that far! Just a little more ash, that's all.
....I never minded a little more ash! :mrgreen:
You got it! Neck set and control panel/plate are finished. It will be a fret board weekend!
BTW, I really like the way the doweled neck came out. I think I'm gonna use that technique on my own builds in the future.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0303_294.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0301_292.jpg)
that neck joint looks super!
the graining in the fretboard should compliment the colors in the top body plate very nicely as well as blend with the Ebony, Walnut and black.
i'm loving that hockey stick head even on the LP shaped body= it is small, light, practical and the almost "J" profile on that Epi neck will make it very fast. all 22 frets on that Martin fretboard should be very accessible.
could you take a snap with the fretboard layed on and the pup turned around?
Quote from: sniper on May 06, 2011, 09:16:55 AM
could you take a snap with the fretboard layed on and the pup turned around?
Here ya go.................
The board will overhang the end of the neck by about 1/8". I decided to leave it square on the ends, I like the look much better and the final fret will fit and work better IMHO.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0304_295.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0306_297.jpg)
i like the look of the pole placement better this way, good call on the square end fretboard.
Quote from: sniper on May 06, 2011, 12:29:38 PM
i like the look of the pole placement better this way, good call on the square end fretboard.
Yeah, me too now that I look at it! We'll make some progress this weekend.
You know there's a precedent for that neck/body combo, right? Rick Nielsen owns one but I don't know if this is the actual guitar:
(http://whirlwindusa.com/i1/vintage/lp84.jpg)
That's going to be one fine bass.
Yeah, that look is growing on me to. Might have to make a template of the headstock before I'm finished.
this has been an amazing tutorial for us non builders. thanks for that. one question, though. could the control cavity been cut from the back thus eliminating the control plate.
Quote from: OldManC on May 07, 2011, 02:05:16 AM
You know there's a precedent for that neck/body combo, right? Rick Nielsen owns one but I don't know if this is the actual guitar:
(http://whirlwindusa.com/i1/vintage/lp84.jpg)
That's going to be one fine bass.
thank you for the compliment George. I was not aware of the precedent but it is good to know.
Quote from: nofi on May 07, 2011, 08:46:17 AM
this has been an amazing tutorial for us non builders. thanks for that. one question, though. could the control cavity been cut from the back thus eliminating the control plate.
yes it could have been done from the back. i just wanted the bass to show an LP Triumph influence and i had a few extra ebony plates on hand. the other reason, it is my tribute to Les Paul.
Small disaster.......the fret board I was using didn't work out. Seems my planer liked one end better than the other and after trying to correct it, I (of course) made it a bit worse.
So, I do have one of your other boards that will fit but, not hang over the heel, as I had cut it for other purposes. That means I'll butt the top edge of the pickup against the heel. Any problem with that???
well, we have three options.
1) use your fix as you suggested
2) i have one more board here i can send
or
3) i have already ordered another board from Randy Allen and it should be here in a few days. I can forward it to you. in the mean time you can work on your long Gibby or your Billy Bo.
let me know. i like the extended square end look myself.
*when i got back from lunch today, the new fretboard was waiting for me. i will forward it to you. decision made, #3.
Great, thanks! Sorry I didn't call back. I was attending graduation today, then we had a reception for the students/families and finally dinner at a friend's house. Just got home and we're bushed. Thanks so much for the fret board. I was just gonna order another one. I appreciate your understanding! I agree the overhang will look and play cool. I'll be more careful next time around!
don't worry about it hoss, i screwed a fuel mixture one time and it cost me a 12,000$ overhaul on my trucks 3406 B model Caterpillar engine. but hey, i would guess that little 300 Cat probably made about 4,000 HP for about 30 seconds. it sounded like a 2 cycle Detroit before it blew and a 3406 Cat is a 4 cycle. my little black Peterbilt shot/boiled rolling smoke about 50 feet into the air like a pullin tractor.
woooooohooooooooo lets party, lol.
893 turbocharged, aftercooled cu inches up in smoke
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/CAT_3406B_Reman_left.jpg)
The Fast And The Furibass...
That'll teach you to nitro a diesel... ;D
Wow, $12k overhaul!!! I don't feel so bad now. Thanks!
Took a break from basses this weekend and worked on this................
Very relaxing. Did some wiring and drove it a bunch.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Porsche/100_3527.jpg)
nice
... I can se its fretless but where do you plug her in ?
Quote from: shadowcastaz on May 09, 2011, 09:13:51 PM
... I can se its fretless but where do you plug her in ?
She's a hybrid of sorts. No radiator!!!! :o
OOOhhhh I see. Very nice. :mrgreen:
Good for you, Bill!
I just sold my 1958 Fiat Spyder so I can spend my available car time getting my 1983 280ZX Turbo back in first class shape...
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Cars/280%20ZX%20Tubro/2806-05.jpg)
Kindred spirits, methinks.
Quote from: Pilgrim on May 10, 2011, 06:13:57 PM
Good for you, Bill!
I just sold my 1958 Fiat Spyder so I can spend my available car time getting my 1983 280ZX Turbo back in first class shape...
Kindred spirits, methinks.
Right on Al. I love those old Z cars. My car is a 912, aircooled flat four, and my next one will probably be a Boxster, as I love ragtops. I'll probably give the 912 to my son who helped me restore it once he has a home/garage to keep it in.
I like the 912s a lot! They have very nice, tasteful lines...something very right about their proportions.
Quote from: Pilgrim on May 10, 2011, 08:30:41 PM
I like the 912s a lot! They have very nice, tasteful lines...something very right about their proportions.
Yep, Dr. Porsche knew what he was doing. It's a great design that still holds up today. Now, if you could only get all the parts you need to keep the damn things running............ :P
Rosewood fretboard is enroute and it is a 16" radius, 2 7/8" wide at both ends.
Quote from: sniper on May 11, 2011, 11:40:22 PM
Rosewood fretboard is enroute and it is a 16" radius, 2 7/8" wide at both ends.
Thanks!!!!
Quote from: sniper on May 11, 2011, 11:40:22 PM
Rosewood fretboard is enroute and it is a 16" radius, 2 7/8" wide at both ends.
Got it today. WOW! That was fast! :o
2 days. glad it got there. i included some extra wood for the thumb rest, actually a lot extra, lol. it can be stacked and glued, dyed, screwed or stuck on the bass side with gum between the pup and bridge.
Quote from: sniper on May 13, 2011, 04:15:09 PM
2 days. glad it got there. i included some extra wood for the thumb rest, actually a lot extra, lol. it can be stacked and glued, dyed, screwed or stuck on the bass side with gum between the pup and bridge.
No problem on the thumbrest, I found the original post and it can make one like it. Got the board trimmed down this morning, I'll install frets tomorrow probably.
Checked to see if it could go down to 30" and I've got a problem with the ground wire channel drilled already for the 32" scale bridge placement. I think I'll leave well enough alone, the 32" scale is gonna be fine. The new fret board is really nice and will work well.
Fret board cut down and glued onto neck! Now we're back in business. Will install the fets tomorrow night, I hope.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0315_306.jpg)
Quote from: drbassman on May 15, 2011, 12:09:25 PM
Fret board cut down and glued onto neck! Now we're back in business. Will install the fets tomorrow night, I hope.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0315_306.jpg)
Do you really think that you have enough clamps on that!? ;D :rolleyes:
Looking good Doc!
You can ALWAYS have too few clamps, but I've never seen too many!!!! 8) I don't like redos!
More clamps are not always better. A slightly convex caul allows you to apply pressure more evenly using as few as three clamps. It's a very old but effective technique.
Quote from: dadagoboi on May 16, 2011, 08:11:18 AM
More clamps are not always better. A slightly convex caul allows you to apply pressure more evenly using as few as three clamps. It's a very old but effective technique.
I agree, a caul would be a good way to do it, but I've had good results thus far and you know how old habits are hard to break! :P
Quote from: drbassman on May 16, 2011, 08:22:43 AM
I agree, a caul would be a good way to do it, but I've had good results thus far and you know how old habits are hard to break! :P
Understand, just wanted to point out there might be a different and less expensive option.
Quote from: dadagoboi on May 16, 2011, 09:11:36 AM
Understand, just wanted to point out there might be a different and less expensive option.
Yeah, but then I'd have to make one and I can't even finish one bass after 4-5 months!
Quote from: drbassman on May 16, 2011, 11:01:18 AM
Yeah, but then I'd have to make one and I can't even finish one bass after 4-5 months!
I meant for the clamp impaired who might not be aware there's another way to go;D
Quote from: dadagoboi on May 16, 2011, 11:06:27 AM
I meant for the clamp impaired who might not be aware there's another way to go;D
Yeah, I forget someone might not know about cauls when they read stuff here.
Clamp impaired ha! Don't know why that made me laff?
Quote from: birdie on May 16, 2011, 12:27:27 PM
Clamp impaired ha! Don't know why that made me laff?
Me too. Am I the opposite: clamp obsessed?
I say more clamps da better! :mrgreen:
As Carlo said, the key to using a caul is to make it slightly convex so it flattens out when clamped down. That's what makes it able to apply even pressure with fewer clamps.
Elsewhere I've seen a few people using cauls that were radiused to match the fretboard, i.e. concave across the underside. IMHO that's not the right way to do it. If I were to use one on a radiused fretboard, I'd make it convex (along the length) and use leather or cork strips along the length to account for the edges being lower than the center. You would want more pressure along the edges than over the truss rod channel anyway.
Hope that makes sense.
Quote from: Dave W on May 16, 2011, 10:59:24 PM
As Carlo said, the key to using a caul is to make it slightly convex so it flattens out when clamped down. That's what makes it able to apply even pressure with fewer clamps.
Elsewhere I've seen a few people using cauls that were radiused to match the fretboard, i.e. concave across the underside. IMHO that's not the right way to do it. If I were to use one on a radiused fretboard, I'd make it convex (along the length) and use leather or cork strips along the length to account for the edges being lower than the center. You would want more pressure along the edges than over the truss rod channel anyway.
Hope that makes sense.
Precisely why I haven't built a caul. It's much more complex than one would imagine to build a proper caul. I get the pressure I need/want on the edges of the board and away from the truss rod channel with my over-clamped method.
Here ya go Sniper. Fret board on and sanded on top. Gotta finish sanding the sides, install dots, top and side, and then frets. Got hardware lined up and centered and all the holes drilled except for the bridge. It's really looking like a bass now!!!
I discovered a couple things. First, it's a real pain in the butt installing a fretboard on a neck when you're trying not to mess up the finish! It's impossible to cut the fret board exactly before installation, so you have to do a little scraping/sanding after the glue dries. Not so easy to do with the neck finished already! Building a neck from scratch, and all unfinished, is much easier for sure. But, I managed just fine. I do have a couple little spots to touch up with some neck amber where the fret board meets the neck, nothing big.
Due to the 3 degree neck angle, I'll have to put an ebony slab/riser, less than 1/8", under the bridge for proper height adjustment. You shouldn't even notice it.
Here's some eye candy for ya.................
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0316_307.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0317_308.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0318_309.jpg)
Looking righteous especially with those Ebony knobs but there is a problem with the control panel.
I don't see the
1) Look 40 pounds lighter switch
2) Look 20 years younger switch
or
3) Make all the chicks really dig me except when my g/f's in the audience combo switch/warning light.
Fix it! (Just kidding!!!)
I have one of those brass handrest/bridge covers from Greatdealz and am thinking of having it black chromed here:
http://www.advancedplating.com/contact.htm
then mounting it instead of a bass side thumb rest. We will talk, might do both.
simply beautiful, nice work!
I was looking for the lighter/younger switch but they run about $100k each. Can you Paypal it? :mrgreen: I like the black hand rest better than the thumb rest, so let me know your pleasure. Did some more measuring and the bridge will need closer to a 3/8" ebony riser. Still looks good with it, I'll post some pics tomorrow.
Got to order some longer black screws for the bridge.
Here ya go. Once I get the frets on, I'll do some final measuring and I should be able to lower the bridge a little based on the amount of height travel in the individual saddle adjusting screws.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0321_312.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0320_311.jpg)
that looks amazing. do my eyes deceive me or is that riser somewhat tapered?
i even kind of like the partial grain dye on the sides, falls inline with the fungus marks, nail holes and worm holes in the top.
Quote from: drbassman on May 18, 2011, 11:50:04 AM
Here ya go Sniper. Fret board on and sanded on top. Gotta finish sanding the sides, install dots, top and side, and then frets. Got hardware lined up and centered and all the holes drilled except for the bridge. It's really looking like a bass now!!!
I discovered a couple things. First, it's a real pain in the butt installing a fretboard on a neck when you're trying not to mess up the finish! It's impossible to cut the fret board exactly before installation, so you have to do a little scraping/sanding after the glue dries. Not so easy to do with the neck finished already! Building a neck from scratch, and all unfinished, is much easier for sure. But, I managed just fine. I do have a couple little spots to touch up with some neck amber where the fret board meets the neck, nothing big.
Due to the 3 degree neck angle, I'll have to put an ebony slab/riser, less than 1/8", under the bridge for proper height adjustment. You shouldn't even notice it.
Here's some eye candy for ya.................
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0316_307.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0317_308.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0318_309.jpg)
sweet bass
Quote from: sniper on May 19, 2011, 11:24:52 AM
that looks amazing. do my eyes deceive me or is that riser somewhat tapered?
i even kind of like the partial grain dye on the sides, falls inline with the fungus marks, nail holes and worm holes in the top.
It's an optical illusion from the camera angle, it's flat. No actual dye on the riser, it's all natural ebony, 2 pieces.
i meant the dye on the Ash sides.
Quote from: sniper on May 19, 2011, 01:17:34 PM
i meant the dye on the Ash sides.
Wow, was I confused!!! Duh!
I agree, the dye remaining in the ash is subtle and looks really nice/consistent with the maple.
Cool bass!!
Quote from: birdie on May 19, 2011, 09:33:33 PM
Cool bass!!
Thanks Birdie, we're making progress. Slow, but it's still progress!
Slow and steady is a good thing!
Quote from: birdie on May 20, 2011, 04:00:24 PM
Slow and steady is a good thing!
Sometimes it keeps me from making mistakes, but not always!!!
Quote from: drbassman on May 21, 2011, 06:03:11 AM
Sometimes it keeps me from making mistakes, but not always!!!
like having your contractor sending you the wrong bridge type or using hard Ash (just drill holes in the Ash, the dye will soak in then!) or insisting on a 37 degree neck angle!
i'll do better next time, i promise.
Quote from: sniper on May 21, 2011, 07:11:31 AM
like having your contractor sending you the wrong bridge type or using hard Ash (just drill holes in the Ash, the dye will soak in then!) or insisting on a 37 degree neck angle!
i'll do better next time, i promise.
No big deal, we'll both do better next time!!! It's been a productive collaboration thus far. In fact, time is the one thing I really need more of. I think I'm 2 years away from retirement, so it's looking good!!!
Just thought I'd double check on the fret size again. Which frets, using Stew Mac's numbering system, do you want? Just want to be absolutely sure before I go pressing them in!
wide medium 0149
or wide high 0154
i can't remember which. i think we decided that the 0149 was closest to the original Gibby size. what i don't know is what size you ordered but what ever it was, it will be fine.
Quote from: sniper on May 22, 2011, 01:17:28 PM
wide medium 0149
or wide high 0154
i can't remember which. i think we decided that the 0149 was closest to the original Gibby size. what i don't know is what size you ordered but what ever it was, it will be fine.
The 149s. I just couldn't remember if that's what you wanted. I've got the dots in and will start on the frets.
Lots o' dots.................
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0325_316.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0328_319.jpg)
What do you mean by original Gibby size? That does vary by era. The 0146 is closest to what they used on basses in the 60s until at least the early 70s. The 0149 is close to Fender's medium jumbo.
it was basically a guess on my part Dave. i figured it is always easier to take metal off than replace it ala Plek if i have to go that route. i do have the utmost confidence in my builder and believe that a good hand fret job is superior to a Plek.
that fretboard does almost reach the body.
To me, frets are like shoes, everyone has different tastes. There are enough choices these days, you can install just about anything you like. I use 148s for my own basses, they feel good to me. That's as scientific as I get! I know some folks like to recreate the feel of frets from the past, but that's probably harder to do than one would think, especially if the particular fret wire isn't even made any longer. We just have to make do with modern frets!
Besides, some of what you may have liked on an old bass could be after a fret job, i.e. even lower than what was originally on it.
Quote from: Dave W on May 23, 2011, 10:16:03 AM
Besides, some of what you may have liked on an old bass could be after a fret job, i.e. even lower than what was originally on it.
good point Dave.
the best frets i ever had were almost non existant (they were so flattened after i had a friend at the music shop take a stone to them) on and old EBO, but it got rid of the buzzes. Bill now has plenty of metal to work with.
that was the same one i painted black. it had NO orange peel after about 30 coats and all the associated sanding and polishing. prolly why i am such a Cataldo finish fan.
Well, I cheat. It's on its way to 97 degrees here, I'm using an additive that improves the flow out. so there's almost no orange peel to sand out and the paint levels better. This is in addition to a 'slow' thinner that protects against blush.
Quote from: dadagoboi on May 23, 2011, 11:14:32 AM
Well, I cheat. It's on its way to 97 degrees here, I'm using an additive that improves the flow out. so there's almost no orange peel to sand out and the paint levels better. This is in addition to a 'slow' thinner that protects against blush.
Ahh yes but the serious question Carlo is this: Does the flow additive affect tone? ;) ;D
Quote from: Freuds_Cat on May 23, 2011, 10:59:51 PM
Ahh yes but the serious question Carlo is this: Does the flow additive affect tone? ;) ;D
Don't know about tone but definitely your mental state if you don't wear a respirator.
Quote from: dadagoboi on May 24, 2011, 05:38:48 AM
Don't know about tone but definitely your mental state if you don't wear a respirator.
Carlo: That might be a hangover from the 60's!
Doc: I am not too worried about the back of the neck even though some dirtball carved his name in it. Just steel wool it close to wood and buff it. I will be happy there. It is part of the history of the bass as it is now.
No problem on touching up the beck of the neck art work. I am looking at maybe using the 148 frets as the tang might be a bit too long on the 149s. I'll do some measuring and decide from there.
Got evening commitments for a couple nights, so I'll get back to it later in the week.
Just got back from 4 days in NC with the in-laws and our kids. Back to work now!
Quote from: drbassman on May 31, 2011, 05:28:02 AM
Just got back from 4 days in NC with the in-laws and our kids. Back to work now!
always good to send time with the family. i am missing my kids so much i'm thinking of moving back to Missouri. i'll let you know if you have to send that somewhere other than Texas.
Go with the flow, Carlo... ;D
Got the frets in finally! The 149s are pretty nice. I like the longer tang, I think it seats in a little better. I'll post some pics in a little bit.
Here ya go sniper. Used my homemade fret press and got all the way to the 22nd. fret with it. Got the board level to check the board and started touching up the occasional high fret with hammer and diamond file. All's pretty smooth so far!!! I spent the day cooking chieckens with the Lions Club for the school district music fest. We did 1000 halves, so I'm pretty pooped tonight!!!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0336_327.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0337_328.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0338_329.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0339_330.jpg)
"i can smell what the Doc's cooking"
looks great! ;D ;D ;D
i spent the afternoon at the neighbors, house setting and cooling off as he is staying in Odessa - basically losing his wife - (asking for good vibes again here gang).
bought some Gibby goodies this weekend - two mutes and an evertilt. i'll pair a mute with the bridge and recoup my investment then end up with a free mute.
thank you, thank you, thank you.
Quote from: sniper on June 05, 2011, 06:06:08 PM
"i can smell what the Doc's cooking"
;D
Doc needs to do his own short promotional video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr8glaM4ruM
Well, I still smell like BBQ chicken today!!!! But it was worth it.
No chicken round here... ;D
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on June 07, 2011, 03:22:32 PM
No chicken round here... ;D
Too bad, it's great on the barbie.
I'm not allowed near Barbie - we have history... :o
Quote from: BUFF on June 08, 2011, 05:34:43 PM
I'm not allowed near Barbie - we have history... :o
grandpa Ken? just because your older ... does not mean your dead!
Just allowed to window-shop ;D
OK, we've got the frets leveled and the edges filed. You have to tape off the edges and file then sand each fret edge by hand. This is the tedious part of neck work that can try a man's patience. Next we'll do the nut, the next most tedious process as noted in Dave's post of the tutorial. So, we'll install the bridge and tuners, string her up and start with the nut work. The electronics will be the last install after finishing.
Did I say this was the tedious part??? :P
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0340_331.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0341_332.jpg)
Looking good, Doc. Thanks for making me glad I don't build necks! For me it would be easier to just refinish the entire neck after filing the fret ends.
I have it pretty easy with nuts also since I only do P or J necks. I just superglue a properly cut one to a blank and duplicate it with the belt sander, Norman nut files and needle files for the slots and clean up with a flat file, etc. I've roughed out as many as 3 bone nuts at a time (superglue and a machinist vise).
Quote from: dadagoboi on June 10, 2011, 06:35:26 PM
Looking good, Doc. Thanks for making me glad I don't build necks! For me it would be easier to just refinish the entire neck after filing the fret ends.
I have it pretty easy with nuts also since I only do P or J necks. I just superglue a properly cut one to a blank and duplicate it with the belt sander, Norman nut files and needle files for the slots and clean up with a flat file, etc. I've roughed out as many as 3 bone nuts at a time (superglue and a machinist vise).
Man I hear ya. When I start my mass builds, I'll probably use All Parts jazz necks. I'll probably set them in rather than use a neck plate and screws.
I like your nut making idea. I have the original one from this one, I might use it as a model.
Quote from: drbassman on June 10, 2011, 08:30:56 PM
Man I hear ya. When I start my mass builds, I'll probably use All Parts jazz necks. I'll probably set them in rather than use a neck plate and screws.
I like your nut making idea. I have the original one from this one, I might use it as a model.
That sounds like a plan, you can use the paddle headstock neck and do them however you want. I have a Brice Thunderbird with a set neck, if you look very closely you can see where they added a 3/4" "heel" to the bottom of a bolt on neck and set it into the body. I'll post a picture if you'd like to see what it looks like.
It takes me about 10 minutes to rough cut a nut, I leave the slots shallow and do the final depth cuts and top contour as part of final setup with it on the bass. It does get easier with practice. I got a feeling that's not the case with filing fret ends!
I've been on the lookout for a (budget) set of files for some time but have not had a lot of luck (over here) ...
Not enough to warrant a dedicated set...
Quote from: dadagoboi on June 10, 2011, 08:41:56 PM
That sounds like a plan, you can use the paddle headstock neck and do them however you want. I have a Brice Thunderbird with a set neck, if you look very closely you can see where they added a 3/4" "heel" to the bottom of a bolt on neck and set it into the body. I'll post a picture if you'd like to see what it looks like.
It takes me about 10 minutes to rough cut a nut, I leave the slots shallow and do the final depth cuts and top contour as part of final setup with it on the bass. It does get easier with practice. I got a feeling that's not the case with filing fret ends!
Sounds good Carlo. Post a pic of the set neck when you have a minute.
Quote from: BUFF on June 11, 2011, 02:39:50 AM
I've been on the lookout for a (budget) set of files for some time but have not had a lot of luck (over here) ...
Not enough to warrant a dedicated set...
I got mine from Warmoth, they were the cheapest around at the time I was looking.
There was a guy selling some inexpensive ones on Ebay a while back, I bought some and like them but they seem to have disappeared from there. Birdie bought a set also and Steve (ThunderBucker) very aggressive cut. Complete set of 10 for bass and guitar was around $50 IIRC. Google Norman nut files, the guy makes them himself.
I have the Warmoth set.
Just avoid the cheap ones made from welding tip cleaners. IMHO not suitable for the purpose, waste of money if you intend to use them more than once.
Now here's an idea that interests me: Technofret Slotsmoother (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180674069509&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT). The seller is a member over at TDPRI, he makes other more conventional tools. You could always just buy one if it's for occasional work. I would check and see if the clamp is big enough to hold the larger bass strings.
Ken, he's in Edinburgh, so you would have to make sure he's from a compatible clan. ;)
The Normans are machined from flat stock stainless steel from 45-105 for bass and whatever sizes those other things use. You can put 2 different sizes together to make different width slots They're durable and cut bone, tusq (corian?) and plastic pretty well. They leave an oval shaped bottom which takes a few swipes of a needle file to finish off.
Attention KMart Shoppers: Allparts is selling packs of 20 Fender curved bottom bone nut blanks for $20. They're closing them out.
That slotsmoother is pretty cool. I've used round wounds to deepen slots and they do work great. I bet you could modify a hacksaw or similar frame to make your own...
Quote from: Dave W on June 11, 2011, 08:38:21 AM
... I would check and see if the clamp is big enough to hold the larger bass strings.
Ken, he's in Edinburgh, so you would have to make sure he's from a compatible clan. ;)
He's a MacLeod (and so was my grandmother) so that's fine, obviously family that moved down from the Isles... ;D
I'll get one to try - the blurb details that it will hold any guitar/bass string - obviously it will need to be a "wound" string to work but the "guitar" sets appear to be commonly available...
Cheers Dave, I'll let the brethern know once I've tried it...
Quote from: BUFF on June 11, 2011, 05:21:11 PM
He's a MacLeod (and so was my grandmother) so that's fine, obviously family that moved down from the Isles... ;D
I'll get one to try - the blurb details that it will hold any guitar/bass string - obviously it will need to be a "wound" string to work but the "guitar" sets appear to be commonly available...
Cheers Dave, I'll let the brethern know once I've tried it...
Good deal. I've used a string to slightly modify a nut slot before while holding the string in my hands. Holding it tight in a rigid frame ought to work much better, after all, there's no doubt steel will cut cow bone and most other nut materials.
Bridge is mounted, frets all finished (need some polish) and the nut slot is finished.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0344_335.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0345_336.jpg)
that Schaller looks so kick ass on there with its black chrome goodiness thanks for saving it for me Dr. i hope those Gotohs look as well on it. i ordered another brass hand rest from Lori tonight. it will get black chromed in Nashville and put on there.
do you have any way of recording a few samples with it when you are done?
Quote from: sniper on June 13, 2011, 08:29:28 PM
that Schaller looks so kick ass on there with its black chrome goodiness thanks for saving it for me Dr. i hope those Gotohs look as well on it. i ordered another brass hand rest from Lori tonight. it will get black chromed in Nashville and put on there.
do you have any way of recording a few samples with it when you are done?
Yep, it's my favorite Fender-style bridge, too. The black really does work with this wood. A hand rest should look cool on this as well. I might be able to do a recording of it after assembly. I don't do the wiring until the finish is on and curing. I'll give it a try.
Now, on to the nut.................
i had the sequence out of order
Quote from: sniper on June 14, 2011, 09:16:37 AM
i had the sequence out of order
Happens to me all the time! One of these days I should write it down for reference rather than relying on my memory. :P
The tuners are on (and looking quite nice), initial grooves are in the nut and we're all strung up! Plenty of travel in the saddle height adjustment in the Schaller bridge for the set up we have here. Will do the final nut filing tonight or tomorrow, time permitting.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0351_342.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0350_341.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0352_343.jpg)
That is going to be SWEET. I'm really digging the headstock/body combo!
before Fred disappeared into the mystic realms, he recommended 1/4" pole to string distance.
as long as it don't weigh a ton and dive like a Stuka 87.
Supposedly Fred is back and working again, magically reappearing the same way he disappeared....
PS: Great build so far!
Looking good...
Quote from: sniper on June 14, 2011, 03:38:38 PM
before Fred disappeared into the mystic realms, he recommended 1/4" pole to string distance.
as long as it don't weigh a ton and dive like a Stuka 87.
I'll install the pup and strap loks to see how she does.
Thanks for the compliments, things are progressing.
OK, the loks are on and the spacing on the pup is perfect! No big surprise when you can adjust the saddles laterally!
BTW, she weighs in at exactly 9 lbs. on the digi bathroom scale.
Here's the gauge I use for nut slotting............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0353_344.jpg)
Here's the pup lined up with the strings............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0356_347.jpg)
Here's the neck balance measurement.................
Tease................
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0357_348.jpg)
Please pardon the reversed mirror shot, had to do this one on my own! ;D
We have a weiner, I mean winner! Fantastic, Doc...do tell us about the gauge.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0357_348.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Jim%20D%20JAEbird%20II/P1030470.jpg)
bass twins seperated at birth?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47/gcarlston/dudepit/DrBassmanLPBass.jpg)
I couldn't resist... That is one fine bass!
thanks for the flip George. now the full picture hits me.
Quote from: sniper on June 14, 2011, 11:10:28 PM
thanks for the flip George. now the full picture hits me.
Yeah but it's more fun to make lefties jealous ;D
Doh! I suppose I could have thought of that! Look good in both styles! Of course, I'm biased.
jjjjjjjjjjjoooooooonnnnnnnneeeeeeeeesssssiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnggggggggggggg a little.
thank golly the G/F is coming back in 8 days if i can't hold my bass i can at least hold her and i vow to NEVER let her read this thread because of this statement. 8) 8) i am such a pig.
Patience, we're in the home stretch now!
Lookin' good and the body size works well with the headstock. The LP body shape looks more compact than it is.
Quote from: dadagoboi on June 15, 2011, 04:47:41 AM
Yeah but it's more fun to make lefties jealous ;D
They tend to get that way, don't they? :mrgreen:
that is such a refreshing shot as i was really worried about it being a neck diver with all the wood that i had Bill take out of the body. maybe i was just being paranoid but i thought it really needed to have that hard Ash softened up a bit with some chambering. i am sure the little Mahogany strip repairing where the body was coming apart is going to help a little.
Fred is alive and well:
"Nice!That's going to sound killer!Remember that 3/16" clearance between pole pieces and strings isideal. You can adjust for individual string balance from there. Fred"
well, answering email anyways!
Quote from: sniper on June 15, 2011, 03:19:42 PM
that is such a refreshing shot as i was really worried about it being a neck diver with all the wood that i had Bill take out of the body. maybe i was just being paranoid but i thought it really needed to have that hard Ash softened up a bit with some chambering. i am sure the little Mahogany strip repairing where the body was coming apart is going to help a little.
It balances fine. It might have done some diving if I had taken more out of the body, but it's good! I agree the chambers will make a world of difference in terms of tone.
Quote from: dadagoboi on June 14, 2011, 06:42:18 PM
We have a weiner, I mean winner! Fantastic, Doc...do tell us about the gauge.
Another Stew-Mac idea to get into your wallet! You just set the dial to zero while on top of the string, press the string down with your fingers on both sides of the first fret, subtract, and you have the correct measurement of string height. Details are on their site. It works great. Recommended string height is .030.
Quote from: drbassman on June 15, 2011, 07:16:37 PM
Another Stew-Mac idea to get into your wallet! You just set the dial to zero while on top of the string, press the string down with your fingers on both sides of the first fret, subtract, and you have the correct measurement of string height. Details are on their site. It works great. Recommended string height is .030.
Figured it was S-M. Thanks, I'll check it out.
Quote from: dadagoboi on June 16, 2011, 04:15:16 AM
Figured it was S-M. Thanks, I'll check it out.
Yeah, it's a fairly simple concept, but it works well and it's fast. I like doing the final nut filing with the strings on and this is a hell of a lot easier than messing with feeler gauges.
I don't use feeler gauges. Insert nut in slot, scribe a pencil line on the nut using a piece of .020 aluminum which conforms to the fretboard curve and have at it until I'm close, install strings and do the rest by "feel", with strings on.
My approach to nut slot depth is to consider the nut as almost a zero fret, as long as no buzz on a fairly hard plucked open string tuned to pitch it's not too low. A nut that is too high causes intonation problems by making the first two or three frets high because of the difference in height between the nut slot and top of the fret. It evens out by the fifth fret but drives some guitar players crazy when open E is in tune and F is sharp. It's quite a revelation when they finally understand.
...That's why NUT JOBS are so important. ;D
I don't get it, people keep telling me I'm a nut-job
Quote from: BUFF on June 16, 2011, 04:31:26 PM
I don't get it, people keep telling me I'm a nut-job
Just highly strung. ;) ;D
Ah yes, never underestimate the importance of nuts! :o
Other's have suggested that I should be strung up, highly...
As long as you have enough rope!
Got a million outdoor chores this weekend, so basses are taking a back seat for a few days.
Update: nut is finished and fret job almost done. I should be able to take one of the bridge shims out now that we have a better idea of fret height. The pup poles have plenty of room for adjustment in spite of the 3 degree neck angle and no underlying ring. We should be spraying some finish by early next week.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0360_351.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0361_352.jpg)
those TI's look good on there. nice work Bill. email sent, check your regular email inbox. did you use the 148's or 149's? because they look perfect.
That IS looking Fine!
Quote from: sniper on June 23, 2011, 12:21:44 PM
those TI's look good on there. nice work Bill. email sent, check your regular email inbox. did you use the 148's or 149's? because they look perfect.
Yep, TIs are my favorite string. I used the 149s and I like them a lot. I'm gonna add them to my stock. Nice long tangs that really grip nicely.
Quote from: dadagoboi on June 23, 2011, 12:24:07 PM
That IS looking Fine!
Thanks Carlo! We're in the home stretch now!
Frets redone (had some uneven ones to tame) and finished.............Put some Dunlop fret board treatment on it and she's all dressed up and ready to go! I'll roll the fret board edges and get ready to spray.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0368_359.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0367_358.jpg)
As always, very nice, clean work!
looking fine Bill
Quote from: sniper on June 26, 2011, 10:24:33 PM
looking fine Bill
Thanks CW. I gotta work the next 3 nights, so I'll get back to it later int he week.
waiting for paint to dry sucks! a ness evil i guess but it still sucks!
Yep, I've been swamped with work and honey-do lists. S&S going on tonight in my newly floored barn! We have concrete as of last week. Been really crazy around here! Pics later..........
concrete is a very good thing
Sure makes painting things a lot cleaner with less dirt/dust.
a few years ago i bought an SGRI bass that was three months old when i got it, a 2005 cherry finish model. it did not quite have the sound i was looking for but it was close. i sold it as i was unhappy but here is the real reason i got rid of it. the finish. it had nicks in the wood that were covered by the finish and dust in the finish particularly in the neck scallop area of the bouts. i could feel it and it upset me to no end. i always thought Gibson was a top line guitar until i experienced this. the instrument was used so there was no warranty when i bought it and it was pretty minty but new or minty does not mean perfect.
i got my money back selling it on the bay but i could just as easily have tossed it in the trash and not thought a thing about it. i am not lowering my standards but i have become used to more realistic expectations regarding instruments. i am so pleased you are making a spray booth and plan on using it on my build. that shows more commitment than Gibson in my book.
Sad story anbout the Gibson, but I guess it happens more often than you'd think.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I have to admit there's no booth yet, but I did spray with all the doors and windows shut and I can promise there'll be no dust bunnies in the finish of your bass! There aren't any sheep in the barn, just tools, my shop and my vintage car. Pretty clean actually!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0375_366.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0374_365.jpg)
Actually, I've never had the luxury of a spray booth. Been painting in the garage for years and have managed to pull it off with care and timing. The barn is actually an improvement!
bass looks nice, concrete looks smooth ... been a good week
Thanks, it's been crazy around here. The floor's only a little over a week old (not fully cured yet) and I spent my vacation mostly working around the house/yard and helping a friend work his hay fields. It was pretty busy but we did get some relaxing in too. A booth is in the future, but I probably won't have time to build it until winter.
S&S coats 3 and 4 are on.
On the home run... 8)
10 coats of clear, we're starting the countdown to wet sanding. 30 days to go.
can i pay for taking it to a tanning salon? ;)
Quote from: sniper on July 10, 2011, 09:57:46 PM
can i pay for taking it to a tanning salon? ;)
You get more than cured nitro with that!!! 8) I've seen the sun do some intersting things to maple and the aging is nice, sometimes.
Here she is in all her shiny glory! 29 days to go!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0375_366.jpg)
Quote from: drbassman on July 11, 2011, 03:58:05 AM
You get more than cured nitro with that!!! 8) I've seen the sun do some intersting things to maple and the aging is nice, sometimes.
between the nail holes, the worm holes and the fungus it prolly has "aged" enough ...
Yep, it doesn't get any more aged than this!
The nitro will prevent mushrooms from growing on the surface.
i was worried about that Dave, thanks. ;)
Aged but not decrepit!
Quote from: sniper on July 12, 2011, 02:53:59 PM
i was worried about that Dave, thanks. ;)
You never know.
Many years ago we had our stereo speaker towers close to the wall backing up to the bathroom. These cabs were real walnut veneer, even on the bottom. There was a slow water leak in that wall that seeped underneath the carpet, by the time it came far enough out for us to notice it, the carpet under the speakers was soaked. When I turned the speaker cabs to dry off the undersides, there were mushrooms growing on the veneer.
Fungi spores are extremely resilient little buggers. Scientists have found LIVING spores inside fossilized rock samples!
I wouldn't be surprised to find living microbial fungi living in Snipers' bass! There are some deep holes and crevasses in there. My wife was funny. She saw the bass hanging in the garage and made a face. She said, "what's that? I don't like it.". Guess she's not a fungi fan. It does "grow" on ya after a while. :o
She doesn't lichen it. :rimshot:
as long as i don't want to spray myself with lysol and burn my clothes after i play it ... its cool
With a hard surface film finish like nitro, you shouldn't have any problem with that.
It's signed, sealed and soon to be delivered! ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inXC_lab-34 ;D
Quote from: BUFF on July 16, 2011, 02:44:29 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inXC_lab-34 ;D
Good one! And I thought I was being subtle!
All part of the service... ;)
Here's the bass, curing happily on the bench. Just a couple more weeks.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0441_432.jpg)
is it my imagination or has that darkened a bit?
also, is that a drawing of how the neck is attached in the bottom of the pup routing?
one more thing, please sign it on the bottom of the control cavity. thank you
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/patiencemyassletsgokillsomething.jpg)
Actually, I think it has darkened slightly, a faint patena. If you put it in the sun when you get it, I bet it'll age to a really cool vintage look. Maybe even get closer to the neck color.
No, that's not a drawing (I did that on paper). It's residual router marks! Yes, I'll sign the cavity in my lousy chicken scratch!
Tic, toc, tic, toc.......time is cruel!
hanging it in the sun will get done. Texas has plenty of sun.
good idea about the drawing.
thanks for the signature.
time is a bitch. the cat i baby set all summer so Fran could stay with her sister is dying and i am pissed. i kinda like that damned ol cat and being able to not put her to sleep is why i stayed in Texas till Fran got back. she is going blind, can't smell her food or water and can't jump up on the end table which is not much over 12" high. i can tell it hurts her to walk. just a damned ol cat right? i'm still pissed.
Callie and i were talking about time a couple of days ago and agreed it is not kind.
did you shoot the control panel?
Quote from: sniper on July 24, 2011, 07:23:09 PM
did you shoot the control panel?
I hear ya about the cat. I get attached to all of the animals we've had over the years. It's hard to see them go, even the dopey cats.
I didn't shoot the control cavity. I was gonna oil it. I can shoot it if you want, it can be sanded with the body when it's ready.
oil is good, thanks.
Quote from: sniper on July 24, 2011, 09:38:27 PM
oil is good, thanks.
Will do. Opps, I meant the control panel in the previous post!
alakazam = its time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: sniper on August 03, 2011, 01:54:34 PM
alakazam = its time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Saturday is the day the fun begins! I'll keep ya posted.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I checked the calendar and Wednesday is actually the day for wet sanding, so we'll get going then. Sorry for the delay, just sticking to the 30 day rule.
I got the top almost finsihed last night. Gotta teach the next two nights and my goal is to finish it up this weekend and get it shipped out!
i'll stick around here till it arrives ;D ;D ;D
[Mental image of Sniper dancing from one foot to another, back and forth, back and forth.....]
Me too! :toast:
The pieces of ebony I have left are too short and too thin for a decent thumbrest, so I'm gonna make one from some wenge I have in the wood box.
sounds good to me, i thought you could simply stack, glue and form some of that Rosewood i sent but the RW pieces would make good candidates for the woodbox too. ;D
i kind of hate to see this thread end. it has been rather unique and enjoyable sharing my build with all the LBO posters and i know i have learned a lot. i certainly have gained a lot of respect for you Doctor Bill. thank you for building my bass.
in retrospect i would have only done one thing different that i can recall. i would not have put the Walnut on the back but put it where i originally wanted and that was under the Spalted Maple top. live and learn. it made sense to do it the way it was done and i thank you for the suggestion. i almost sent a Mahog back to put on but it is still setting here on the floor in its original packaging. i love the bass the way it is.
Hey, I forgot about the rosewood. I could that if you prefer. I had ebony in my head for some reason.
It's not too late to add mahog cap to the back. Now is the time......
i love it like it is. the Wenge would be perfect.
Quote from: sniper on August 11, 2011, 06:45:23 PM
i love it like it is. the Wenge would be perfect.
Sounds good, we're set then. Gonna hit the sack early tonight. Class finished early for a change.
Gonna work on more wet sanding and the thumb rest tomorrow. If I run the rest from the bottom of the neck toward the bridge, do you want it to go all the way to the bridge?
Let me know, I'm gonna crash for now and will get back to it in the morning before church.
Quote from: sniper on February 19, 2011, 06:14:42 AM
Dr have you ever wondered what I included that long piece of thin dark wood that looks like it matches the fretboard wood for?
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/fb-extension-02.jpg)
Aligned with the bass side of the pup would be nice and functional.
:mrgreen:
i have been thinking about that for a few days now. my conclusion is i would like it aligned like in the picture ... in the same plane as the fretboard edge ... sticking out a little like is shown in the picture. yes, take it to the bridge. just use the picture as a guide.
OK. One issue (that just occurred to me) is the DS is wider than the neck heel, so I can't make it fit the way the one in the picture does. I'll fiddle around with it and give you some options and pictures to mull over.
just continue the string plane/pitch on the bridge side of the DS between the pup and bridge
have fun deboning it
Thanks CW! Got the polishing finished and I've got my usual nitro shrink dilemma. This is the last nirto for me (after the BillyBo is finished). It's just too unreliable on grainy woods AFIK. Thanks for being understanding CW, it's not a great finish, more like a Gibson factory finish! :P I'll post pics in a little while.
the last time i was in Tim Thelen's shop getting an estimate, he asked me what kind of finish i wanted. i told him he could do it in amalgamated cow plop if he wanted as long as it looked fair and didn't smell too bad.
i find all this a bit funny. a Gibson finish will be fine.
Quote from: sniper on August 14, 2011, 02:08:59 PM
the last time i was in Tim Thelen's shop getting an estimate, he asked me what kind of finish i wanted. i told him he could do it in amalgamated cow plop if he wanted as long as it looked fair and didn't smell too bad.
i find all this a bit funny. a Gibson finish will be fine.
Well, I'm displeased with my results, but I do appreciate your understanding and hope I can live up to the cow flop bar you set! There's just a lot of grain pore showing everywhere and nitro just isn't very forgiving in that department. I can't get the flaws to show up in the pics, but there's a lot of shrinkage there. You can see it better on the walnut back. On a positive note, no cow flop smell!!!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0451_703.jpg)
You can really see the grain in the walnut! Another wood that begs for poly!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0452_704.jpg)
Got the idiot's name sanded out from the back of the neck. The headstock polished up really nice.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0455_707.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0457_709.jpg)
Thumbrest placement. OK here?
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0462_714.jpg)
I got the pup all wired and I was trying to decide where to hook it up on the control panel. Where's the best spot for the lead and the ground wires? The vol control is on the far right of the pic below. I haven't dealt with a wiring set up like this before. No big surprise!!!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0463_715.jpg)
Quote from: drbassman on August 14, 2011, 03:17:03 PM
I got the pup all wired and I was trying to decide where to hook it up on the control panel. Where's the best spot for the lead and the ground wires? The vol control is on the far right of the pic below. I haven't dealt with a wiring set up like this before. No big surprise!!!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0463_715.jpg)
i dunno jack about wiring, but turn the pup around the other way. i'm thinking the finish looks pretty good from what i see. neck and head looks super. scoot that thumb rest in towards the "E" string a bit and shorten it up about an 1/4" or so then center it between the bridge and pup.
Now wait, is it cow plop or cow flop?
I don't want to think about how you would amalgamate it.
Looking nice and shiny now.
Quote from: Dave W on August 14, 2011, 05:26:01 PM
Now wait, is it cow plop or cow flop?
I don't want to think about how you would amalgamate it.
Looking nice and shiny now.
I didn't think there was much difference between plop and flop! Just semantics, I suppose. :o
Shiny, yes! Gibson graininess, for sure! Maybe I could get a job in Nashville!!!
Quote from: sniper on August 14, 2011, 05:21:45 PM
i dunno jack about wiring, but turn the pup around the other way. i'm thinking the finish looks pretty good from what i see. neck and head looks super. scoot that thumb rest in towards the "E" string a bit and shorten it up about an 1/4" or so then center it between the bridge and pup.
Will do on the pup and thumb rest. Glad the finish will work for you. Ifin it were mine and I had months to play, it would be a different story.
Now, we'll need a consultant for the wiring.
Hey Sniper, do you want rounded or square edges on your thumbrest?
i think i would like them rounded off a bit. as far as the wiring, that is a Gibby EBO loom. what vintage i am unsure of, but a visit to Jules place should give you a schematic and the hookups to the pup are the only thing i don't know. if you have a multimeter it couldn't be too hard to figure out though i wouldn't think. iffen it don't work, switch dem wires. i'll see if i can research a DS loom and get a pic to post.
if someone knows where Rodent is at these days, he could prolly answer the schematic questions.
anybody have an idea? i think i would call the red one hot and blue one ground (via talkbass).
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/largeimage6darkstar.jpg)
Quote from: sniper on August 14, 2011, 02:08:59 PM
the last time i was in Tim Thelen's shop getting an estimate, he asked me what kind of finish i wanted. i told him he could do it in amalgamated cow plop if he wanted as long as it looked fair and didn't smell too bad.
i find all this a bit funny. a Gibson finish will be fine.
Before or after he moved to Iowa?
Quote from: bassvirtuoso on August 14, 2011, 10:53:45 PM
Before or after he moved to Iowa?
i used to live in Grinnell and had to go to Des Moines once a month for a blood check at the V.A.. i simply stopped in his shop one day to get an estimate. i didn't know he lived anywhere else.
I found the EB-0 schematic on Fly Guitars, so we're set (I hope!).
Quote from: sniper on August 14, 2011, 11:25:21 PM
i used to live in Grinnell and had to go to Des Moines once a month for a blood check at the V.A.. i simply stopped in his shop one day to get an estimate. i didn't know he lived anywhere else.
I guess I say that because I had never heard of him before he opened The Luthiere Shop, and he had already seemed to have quite the reputation. I've never used him though, I went to a great guy across the street at Last Chance Guitars/Crazy Horse Guitars named Greg.
Are you from Iowa? </offtopic>
The bass is looking great!
i am from Kansas ... miles and miles of dry miles and miles. i joined the Navy and traded the dry miles and miles for wet miles and miles but i was never much more than 5 miles from land ... straight down.
me on my yacht in 71, Guam bound.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/GuamBoundUSSHunleyOctober1971.jpg)
USS Hunley AS-31 somewhere in the West Pacific
Catch-up is a b*tch... ;)
You did a stint with the Navy...? tell us more... :popcorn:
i'll post a story i wrote later. it is in three parts if i can find it and NO i'm not writing about the whore house on the side of the mountain in that far far away place.
AT least they didn't make you climb the mountain!
we rented a Jeep
Wiring, thumbrest and hardware complete. I oiled the control plate, lined the control cavity and cleaned off some of the paint on the back of the bridge plate for better contact with the ground wire. I wanted to use black screws for the hardwrare but couldn't find the right sizes so I went with nickel. I'll assemble later today or tomorrow and fire her up! I've got three events going on today, won't behome much! Yikes!!! :o
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0464_716.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0467_719.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0469_720.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0465_717.jpg)
oh yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!! now i'm gassing big time, that looks amazing Bill
Quote from: sniper on August 20, 2011, 09:51:10 AM
oh yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!! now i'm gassing big time, that looks amazing Bill
We aim to please!!! Just don't look at the finish!! ;D
the finish is fine!
I can send you some Gibson size black screws if you want Sniper. You also might want to rethink that EBO wiring setup. One of those caps, the .01, adds capacitance (cuts treble) all the time, adding to the mud factor...or have I missed something and is that what Hammon recommends?
It's a genuine vintage EB-0 wiring harness. We'll see how the pup sounds hooked up to it. A little mud could be a good thing. ;D
Quote from: drbassman on August 20, 2011, 07:08:13 PM
It's a genuine vintage EB-0 wiring harness. We'll see how the pup sounds hooked up to it. A little mud could be a good thing. ;D
Very true. I bought Gary's Dark Star and can't find any recommended pot and cap values info on the DS site. I'll be interested in how the Colby sounds with the EBO setup.
I seem to remember pot value being 500k since it doesn't act like a single coil normally does. Cap value, though, escapes me at the moment.
An EB-0 wiring harness has 500K pots. As Doc said, it will need to be hooked up, that treble bleed circuit might be just fine. IIRC the other cap is .033uf.
i probably should have emailed Butch Ammons http://bayoucables.com/ but i didn't think of it at the time and the EBO harness was the only one i had so it got packed.
Thanks, Sniper. Nice work, reasonable price considering the quality of the components and neatness.
After having done 25 3 pot harnesses this year I have it down to around 10 minutes per. The first few seemed to take 5 times that long. I'm using a cheap cap, Steve keeps bugging me about that, probably time for an upgrade. Shielding the control cav is a 5 minute job. I don't shield the pup cavities since ThunderBuckers are self shielding, ditto Duncans. This one is going to Ken tomorrow.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Project%20JAEbird/P1040255.jpg)
Had to teach tonight, but I'll get back at it tomorrow. We'll hook it up and see how it sounds.
Glued the nut on and drilled the thumbrest. Gotta work tonight, but will be home tomorrow night. Onward and upward, as they say!
Bill, you have to stop letting your work get in the way of bassmaking.
Quote from: Dave W on August 23, 2011, 06:27:05 PM
Bill, you have to stop letting your work get in the way of bassmaking.
Damn, you are so right Dave! I have class or information sessions 3 nights this week. I usually get home between 10 and 11 PM and I'm too bushed to go into my shop and work. I need to be rested and have my wits about me when I'm around power tools!!! :o
I hope to retire in a year or two. The work is fun and the money's great, so it's hard to call it quits. It's really my call when I'm ready. I think after I get all of the machinery I want for my shop, I'll get more serious!!
I did treat myself to this non-bass item last week.................. :P
300 hp, 5 sp GT. Yum!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DSCN0447_438.jpg)
Nice treat! :thumbsup:
... and this is called settling into the idea of retirement... (epic-fail ;D)
Try for another shot with a blue sky and get the flag reflection... just... so... ;)
NIIIIICCCCE.
I've been thinking a lot about that kind of treat too, Bill!
My sights are more set on one of the recent year Bullitt Mustangs, which I have always liked.
But I just got room in the garage for my 280ZX...so probably not.
Heck, I figured if I was gonna put in another year or two, I should have some toys (rewards) for doing so! I agree Al, that Bullit is nice too, not to mention the new Boss reissue. None available around here at the moment.
I thought the flag was a nice touch, glad you noticed it!!
Now, back to the matter at hand.
The bass is essentially finished, but I need to set it up, intonate it and do some final adjusting. I plugged her into my Mesa and man, 1/4 turn of the volume knob about blew the speaker! The best part is it's not nearly as muddy as an EB-0. In fact, it has a nice thump with plenty of mid and high clarity to my ears. No hums or buzzes, that old harness is working perfectly. Frankly, I was surprized. Maybe Gibson does make some things that last after all!!!
Anyway, another day or so and we'll kiss this baby goodbye. I have to a=say, if it were mine, I'd keep her. She really does sound good and the neck plays really comfortably. The low tension TIs means the trus rod only has a slight partial turn on it, nothing heavy at all.
Here's a couple sexy shots by incandescent lighting. No freaking curly-cues in my house!!!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0479_722.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0480_723.jpg)
wow, i am blown away about the looks. if it feels good to you (or not) then feel free to move the bridge. if you feel that it would be okay to move it a little and not expose the ground wire, then so be it. also feel free to use the Rosewood like we talked about to make another riser if you have to. it is your choice Bill.
i can't believe it is coming to an end. this has been a journey. no neck dive and what is the final tally weight wise? if that bridge in the top shot is at intonation then it looks fine to me.
Thanks CW. I'm probably gonna make a new riser out of ebony, I've got a bunch laying around the shop and it looks good with the bridge. A 3/8" adjustment makes sense to me. The bridge shot above was pre-intonation. The damn ground hole is right at the edge of the bridge, so it's gonna be a problem.
The other simple solution might be to shorten the springs at the back of the saddles as they are restricting saddle travel because they are too long and bunching up. I think I might try that before adding a new riser. I've got extra springs to play with.
Quote from: BUFF on August 24, 2011, 04:28:02 PM
... and this is called settling into the idea of retirement... (epic-fail ;D)
Try for another shot with a blue sky and get the flag reflection... just... so... ;)
I simply ran the numbers and toys beat out sitting around in my bathrobe clipping coupons! For now.............
i had to cut silk on the Rotosounds i have on my Epi. it worked.
Quote from: drbassman on August 24, 2011, 08:09:00 PM
The other simple solution might be to shorten the springs at the back of the saddles as they are restricting saddle travel because they are too long and bunching up. I think I might try that before adding a new riser. I've got extra springs to play with.
springs!!! duh i understand now. i'm just so excited it went over my head.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-LbvFckptY
Boinggggggggggg! ;D
I fixed the bridge intonation issue today. I disassembled the bridge and found some of the screws and springs were too long, so I shortened the D and G screws and springs and just had to put shorter springs on the E and A saddle screws. I'll try intonation later tonight. If it's still a little off, all I have to do is shorten the screws an 1/8" or so. No need to mess with the bridge placement. It can stay put. Yippee!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0484_728.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0485_724.jpg)
Lookin' mighty fine... 8)
So close...............
Quote from: dadagoboi on August 20, 2011, 06:16:47 PM
I can send you some Gibson size black screws if you want Sniper. You also might want to rethink that EBO wiring setup. One of those caps, the .01, adds capacitance (cuts treble) all the time, adding to the mud factor...or have I missed something and is that what Hammon recommends?
Where did you find those screws Carlo? I want to buy some.
Allparts
Gibson size screws GS-0050-003
http://www.allparts.com/Black-Gibson-Size-Pickguard-Screws-p/gs-0050-003.htm
Bulk GS-0050-B03
http://www.allparts.com/SearchResults.asp?search=GS-0050-B03&x=28&y=16
The Fender size are twice the price GS-0001-003
http://www.allparts.com/Pickguard-Screws-p/gs-0001.htm?1=1&CartID=0
well, its at least good to know that the pup i bought from Fred back in the between the pit and post days works ... lol.
OK, I trimmed the riser a bit and now she's a bit too low IMO and I don't like the bridge angle. So, I'll add a little more and then intonate. The saddles are all fixed and working great. My son's home from Norfolk, got out yesterday before the storm hit. They tied down all the ships and closed the Naval shipyard till Tuesday. Life is good in sunny western NY!
been in that yard and hospital more times than i can remember. hope every one gets through okay. when i was in, there were still gunports under the main hospital steps ... really!
that is the oldest functioning hospital in the Navy. the original main part was completed about 1830.
He works in the yard at Portsmouth. Loves the big aircraft carriers. He was working on one when the earthquake hit. Got a great job as a mechanical engineer in the propulsion division. We're very proud!
FWIW:
1952 Gibson Goldtop trapeze bridge. this is the one Les got pissed about because Gibson screwed up his patent and underslung it. the early '52 GT's didn't have enough neck angle to sling it correctly and, it took the pressure off the bridge so it would walk sideways and not hold intonation. Les was livid.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/KGrHqNmEE3HT2oHCMBOBOTlepQ_3.jpg)
1952 Gibson Goldtop compensated bridge for a factory installed Bigsby. Bigsby add on bridges that came with aftermarket vibrato's were different.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/rods%20projects%20and%20sold/dogbonetop.jpg)
the bridges i was talking about when we were on the phone Dr. the top one is going to the Netherlands and the bottom one to Japan.
and, I got that Fralin sidewinder P90.
Cool, nice job selling those! I love it when I can turn a profit.
Guess what?
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(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0486_729.jpg)
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(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Sniper%20Project/DSCN0487_730.jpg)
It will ship tomorrow..
.
niceeeeeeeeeeee, four questions Doc?
what did it end up weighing?
does it nose dive?
did we hit the right wood combo and chambering for it to sound good?
is it comfy to play?
the bridge saddle placement looks perfect now and the thumb rest follows the string pitch very nicely.
and thank you. those words seem woefully inadequate in expressing my gratitude.
Looks mighty nice.
Quote from: sniper on August 30, 2011, 03:29:51 PM
niceeeeeeeeeeee, four questions Doc?
what did it end up weighing?
does it nose dive?
did we hit the right wood combo and chambering for it to sound good?
is it comfy to play?
the bridge saddle placement looks perfect now and the thumb rest follows the string pitch very nicely.
and thank you. those words seem woefully inadequate in expressing my gratitude.
Oh my, I forgot the weight question! I just checked it and it's exactly 9 lbs. It does not nose dive and the chambers, in combo with the wood and harness make the bass boom without sounding too muddy or mushy. I am serious when I say I'd be happy to play her in a rock or blues band any time. Intonation is right on and the thumb rest is very comfy. I really do like playing her. I have the action set where it sounds and plays comfy in my hands. Up, up and away tomorrow! Thanks a million for your patience and understanding!
Quote from: Dave W on August 30, 2011, 04:45:41 PM
Looks mighty nice.
Thanks Dave, good, but not great on the finish! It really does play well and I love how it sounds. CW lucked out, a good combination of wood, pup and electronics.
CW, check your PM for tracking info. Due in next Thursday. You must live on the other side of the planet!
Quote from: drbassman on August 31, 2011, 11:43:20 AM
CW, check your PM for tracking info. Due in next Thursday. You must live on the other side of the planet!
He's deepinahearta...it works out about the same. They speak Texican down thar.
Wayyyyyyyy out west! :toast:
i is here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permian_Basin_(North_America)
specifically here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reeves_County,_Texas
Pecos is actually in Reeves county which is just North of Pecos county. the Pecos river is the border of Reeves county to the East.
for some reason i can't seem to get the first link to work correctly. just click on the first link then click on the first option it gives you
If you think Reeves County is sparsely populated, you need to cross the Pecos into Loving County.
I have had the experience of visiting Pecos Texas, thanks very much. It is certainly a quintessential west TX town.
I have also visited the A&M Research & Extension Center in Fort Stockton a number of times.
Well, it looks like the party's over for the Colby bass. I'll have to move on to my spray equipment and the Billybo.
Quote from: drbassman on August 31, 2011, 05:46:23 PM
Well, it looks like the party's over for the Colby bass. I'll have to move on to my spray equipment and the Billybo.
Oh, gee, whatEVER will you do??? How will you bear up???
That Billybo is exceptionally sweet...and completely different from that fantastic Colby.
I salute your mad instrument building skills!!!
Thanks Al. I just want my finishing skills to catch up to my woodworking ability.
Quote from: drbassman on August 31, 2011, 09:06:55 PM
Thanks Al. I just want my finishing skills to catch up to my woodworking ability.
Amen! Nice job Doc!
Quote from: drbassman on August 31, 2011, 09:06:55 PM
Thanks Al. I just want my finishing skills to catch up to my woodworking ability.
The Colby looks fantastic! I'm guessing all the work you've put in with rattlecans will pay off quickly.
Thanks so much guys, you make me blush! I took way too long to do this and while I sure have learned a lot from the rattle cans, I won't miss them one bit! I'm very happy with how the bass turned out overall. The chambering, body recutting, the neck angle, fret board and truss rod replacement, fretting/nut, fixing finish flaws on the back of the neck, utilizing Sniper's hardware and harness, all turned out as I wanted. So, there's lots I'm thankful for. The best part is it's a great sounding bass and plays well. Thank heavens!
Hey sniper, in a year or two, if you get tired of playing it, I'll refin it free of charge! I will have my act together soon. I plan on using my new spray set up to finish the Billybo, the EB-3 and the long lingering EB-2 I've had laying around for 2 years!
Thanks Doc, I will probably take you up on that offer after you get some of your projects done. I am looking forward to seeing the long EB and the Billy Bo done.
My pleasure CW. It gonna rain all weekend, so maybe I can work in the barn on my setup.
Hey CW, I got a bunch of black screws in the correct sizes for your bass, thanks to Carlo. I'll drop some in the mail to you this week.
The black screws went out today CW. Enjoy!
i am having a problem with the tracking number you sent me. it says not a valid number. the visitation has been cancelled until Friday so i am leaving tomorrow after i finish getting my driver lic.
a word of advise NEVER TELL THE LIC LADY BEHIND THE DESK BULLSHIT!!!. if one does that that in the state of Texas, one gets at least two Rangers (mean looking mf's) with guns and hats and everything in the office asking "is there is a problem?"
ate a little crow today.
BIG MEAN SONS OF A GUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i passed the written part ... thought i would get denutted if i didn't.
in all fairness i should say that i have gotten the run around at four different state offices (including this one) prior to today concerning various things such as vehicle registration, drs lic and vehicle inspections and i decided the buck stops now.
i think Dave had mentioned bureaucratic ineptness in another post concerning the Gibson raid.
Just don't drop 'em in the yellow snow.
Ouch, you gotta choose your battles carefully CW! Bureacrats are really annoying!
I checked around for the UPS slip and I've managed to lose it. I actually dropped the bass off on my way to NYC for a meeting and I think I lost the slip somewhere between flying there and coming home. I'll call them tomorrow and see if they can give me the number and I'll send it to you. They did say Thursday on it!
thanks Doc. if push comes to shove, that ol Chevy van will drive to Kansas either ready or not so ready during the night if it has to. i told Dale about it today and he laughed very hard on the phone and told me understood. he is as crazy as i am.
The post office told me the screws will arrive Friday. I hope you get them! Or at least they will be forwarded. Best of luck on your travels! Say hi to Wichita when you pass by! My daughter is getting used to the 100+ degrees all summer! :P
i'm not but it has cooled now. we had 98 days of over 100 and of those 98 days, we had 71 days over 105.
Quote from: sniper on September 07, 2011, 08:55:00 AM
i'm not but it has cooled now. we had 98 days of over 100 and of those 98 days, we had 71 days over 105.
When you look at humidity adjusted temperatures (heat index) that's just a normal summer in these parts. As my ex wife puts it, HELL. And she should know, she's from Louisiana.
Quote from: sniper on September 07, 2011, 08:55:00 AM
i'm not but it has cooled now. we had 98 days of over 100 and of those 98 days, we had 71 days over 105.
Check your PM for tracking onfo CW.
got back last night and checked out the bass. i love it Bill. thank you very much.
We need an appropriately grainy photo of the bass with the proud owner!
Quote from: sniper on September 16, 2011, 10:49:41 AM
got back last night and checked out the bass. i love it Bill. thank you very much.
Thanks CW. Let me know your impressions regarding it's sound and feel. I love the way it sounds and plays, but I'm biased.
:popcorn:
Quote from: drbassman on September 16, 2011, 08:27:46 PM
Thanks CW. Let me know your impressions regarding it's sound and feel. I love the way it sounds and plays, but I'm biased.
i walked around with it for two days getting a feel for it. my first impression is that it is kind of long. i got used to that very quickly; probably from the neck angle as it makes it hang a little to the right making neck access very good and without any neck dive that i can perceive. the body balances over my right illiac crest so it fits my left arm very well as i am oval not square and my right hand falls just about right to take advantage of the thumb rest. i was worried about it being too far away from the strings, but it is right on. i don't have to stretch to reach anything low on the neck and upper registry access is very good although presonally i feel a little unfamiliar with playing in the upper registry. the thumb rest lets me play pickless and softly away from the pup poles. admitedly i haven't tried it with a pick yet. the handrest isn't plated so i haven't mounted it. there should be plenty of room come time.
the sound is not too muddy but it has enough and if i crank it in with a full mid range and a respectful high register its very clean overall. i seem to be able to crank in all the bite i need or i can soften it up if i want by moving away from the poles. i tried it through my Bassman 10 (about 50 watts RMS) pushing two Celestion G75's wired parallel in an old Blonde Bassman unported cab. i have an old AB165 chassis laying here that i hope to get rebuilt into a Sunn 200S to push a tone ring 15" if i ever get them done. it overdrives my amp if i let it. this bass can use more amp than i presently have. i feel very happy with the way it sounds and i would feel very comfortable playing blues, rock or even jazz with it.
finish wise i can tell it was done with a rattle can, but...i can also do a carnuba/bees wax polish job on it that will get rid of 90% of what makes you unhappy and which i plan to do soon to protect that nitro. in all fairness if you had your booth ready i am sure you would have given it a nicer finish but it is still a lot better finish than the SGRI i had. good job.
i am very happy with it.
Quote from: sniper on September 18, 2011, 10:17:18 PM
i walked around with it for two days getting a feel for it. my first impression is that it is kind of long. i got used to that very quickly; probably from the neck angle as it makes it hang a little to the right making neck access very good and without any neck dive that i can perceive. the body balances over my right illiac crest so it fits my left arm very well as i am oval not square and my right hand falls just about right to take advantage of the thumb rest. i was worried about it being too far away from the strings, but it is right on. i don't have to stretch to reach anything low on the neck and upper registry access is very good although presonally i feel a little unfamiliar with playing in the upper registry. the thumb rest lets me play pickless and softly away from the pup poles. admitedly i haven't tried it with a pick yet. the handrest isn't plated so i haven't mounted it. there should be plenty of room come time.
the sound is not too muddy but it has enough and if i crank it in with a full mid range and a respectful high register its very clean overall. i seem to be able to crank in all the bite i need or i can soften it up if i want by moving away from the poles. i tried it through my Bassman 10 (about 50 watts RMS) pushing two Celestion G75's wired parallel in an old Blonde Bassman unported cab. i have an old AB165 chassis laying here that i hope to get rebuilt into a Sunn 200S to push a tone ring 15" if i ever get them done. it overdrives my amp if i let it. this bass can use more amp than i presently have. i feel very happy with the way it sounds and i would feel very comfortable playing blues, rock or even jazz with it.
finish wise i can tell it was done with a rattle can, but...i can also do a carnuba/bees wax polish job on it that will get rid of 90% of what makes you unhappy and which i plan to do soon to protect that nitro. in all fairness if you had your booth ready i am sure you would have given it a nicer finish but it is still a lot better finish than the SGRI i had. good job.
i am very happy with it.
Whew, thanks for the review. I was pleased will all of it but the finish. If you ever get a recording of it, post it!
So, after a few weeks, how's that bass shakin' out for ya? Sound? Feel?
Quote from: drbassman on October 13, 2011, 01:42:14 PM
So, after a few weeks, how's that bass shakin' out for ya? Sound? Feel?
Yah, 'fess up. And include photos...
i keep forgetting to take my camera to the monthly jam .... but i will tell you that bass kicks some serious ass!!!
i'm thinking the next thing after the T-Bird hand rests is going to be the 15" tone ring cab and the 200S head.
That's great to hear! Remember that camera next time!