Some background. I ditched my white '77 Tbird (bought new) in '81 for the usual reasons, neck profile and dive. I was always happy with the sound, especially played through 3 Coliseums and 3 SVT cabinets. '81 was very different from '77, married w/new son, down to one coliseum and a 2-15 cab. Before I straight traded the Bird for a '76 'StingRay (still have it, weighs 12 lbs, great boat anchor) I made a tracing of the body.
Fenderbird was in my head.
I quickly tired of the weight and blah sunburst of the 'Ray, though the neck profile is very nice, and decided to cannibalize it for a Fenderbird (Musicman=Leo=Fender). Instead I bought the components: a left handed Charvel neck (new), Kluson reverse LH tuners, DiMarzio P pup and Badass, etc (all used from, I think, Freedom Guitars) for around $100 and commuted the 'Ray's sentence to life under my bed. Built the Bird, painted it red and gigged it. Still did the neck dive dance a little, but at least the profile was more to my liking. And I liked the DiMarzio OK.
Stopped playing after my daughter was born in '84. After '98 divorce revisited the Bird and stripped the paint, made the Badass thru body, modified the headstock and added a P/J set of Duncans. Then I replaced the Klusons with Gotohs. Time to finish this one.
2001 w/ SDs. You can see the original rout for the MM pup
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/Blunderbird-April-2001.jpg)
Photoshop Concept (Blonde Ambition)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/GUMBY.jpg)
Last week (NR pg planned)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/Blunderbird.jpg)
Counterbores for flush string ferrules
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010851.jpg)
Plugging pot holes
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010850.jpg)
Thinking about this, unfortunately after I drilled those counterbores. But there's always the next one.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010853.jpg)
Prepped for face lift, skim coat of filler sanded.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010864.jpg)
Not quite ready for its closeup. Paper backed veneer, Titebond glue. Using this bridge or the Badass may reappear.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010886.jpg)
Next is pup routing, pot holes and gut contour, then body prep for finishing. Pups will be 2 EMG 35 TWs, chromerized. They are EMG's "vintage" sounding 3 coils. We'll see.
http://www.emginc.com/products/category/247/2
Headstock has to be recontoured, veneered and refinned.
Color to be determined, a lot depends how well the back and sides clean up. I'm leaning blonde or transparent Fiesta Red stain.
LBO has been a HUGE inspiration in the short time since finding it and joining. THANKS!
Wow nice work!
I'm intrigued by this bridge/tailpiece you're showing
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010853.jpg)
Looks like you cut this bridge you mentioned (in another thread) in half?? Or?
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/P1010809.jpg)
Nailed me. Amazing what you can do with a hacksaw and too much time on your hands.
Dangerous what you can to with tools and a little time... ;D
Interesting work... at least if you use your modified bridge it will look more like the original fittings... Just in case you don't have the pics in your JAE file, on the two Peter Cook Explorers I've seen, he used combined bridges which looked very Fenderish...
That is awesome. The bridge and tailpiece look like they were made for each other.
A perfect match!
Quote from: Kenny Five-O on June 01, 2010, 09:36:49 AM
Dangerous what you can to with tools and a little time... ;D
Interesting work... at least if you use your modified bridge it will look more like the original fittings... Just in case you don't have the pics in your JAE file, on the two Peter Cook Explorers I've seen, he used combined bridges which looked very Fenderish...
The next one will probably have that bridge and be closer to a replica of the origanals. I don't recall seeing Cook's Explorers. Love to see some pix or links.
My '63 Vox
BRITISH Phantom IV has a very close approximation of a '56-on Fender threaded saddle bridge. The pups are definitely designed after single coil Pbasser's and the neck has the profile of a '55. Steal from the best.
If you search the Hard Rock website they have images you can zoom right in on (a red-orange one and one "pukeburst" as she was nicknamed), also the Lightning bass - exactly the same TRC as mine, but reversed in colour...
I have asked for a copy of the pictures in a digital format or as items they might sell, but they are not willing to supply, not that a competant PC user could not get round the hurdles...
The red one he used in this video, seen in the background of this page; they may have been the proto-Spider Alembic, but they were Peter Cook instruments...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_FZVD5lsAw
Thanks, great stuff, I know I have it on DVD somewhere. This was the epitome of the Fenderbirds for me, never got into the Alembics. Just found it on P. 32 of Bass Culture. It has a gold Tbird bridge and tailpiece, JAE says it was used in the Kids Are Alright for Who Are You.
On P 38 he refers to that red orange color on a Jazz Bass as Salmon Pink, says its his second favorite color. I'm pretty sure the Fender name is Fiesta Red.
That is one fantastic piece of video!
Interesting to see how much the Ox played with his thumb. As has been observed ofen, what a contrast in playing demeanor there was between Townshend and Entwhistle.
Wow! When I saw the two piece bridge I thought: How did he get a picture of my bridge? ???
I did the very same thing you did, it's even the same bridge model. Although I didn't use the tailpiece end, only the saddles/base part for a Ric style bridge, yet to be finished. But I was planning on doing the same thing you did for a T-Bird project.
Great minds think alike?...
Quote from: Daniel_J on June 01, 2010, 04:51:02 PM
Wow! When I saw the two piece bridge I thought: How did he get a picture of my bridge? ???
I did the very same thing you did, it's even the same bridge model. Although I didn't use the tailpiece end, only the saddles/base part for a Ric style bridge, yet to be finished. But I was planning on doing the same thing you did for a T-Bird project.
Great minds think alike?...
I don't know how long it took you to figure it out but I've had that bridge for around 2 years. It finally hit me the other day AFTER I'd posted the picture of it on another thread about saddles that it could be modified into a bridge/tailpiece. I'd been looking for a cheap solution for quite a while. I'm sure you were quicker to realize the possibilities!
that bridge is so cool, what kind was it originally?
Quote from: sniper dog on June 01, 2010, 08:46:48 PM
that bridge is so cool, what kind was it originally?
I got mine from Grizzly around '07. Lace uses it on their Helix basses introduced in '08. Haven't seen it on anything else.
The saddles lock into the carriers w/grub screw, same for the carriers into the channels. Good range of adjustment, you can even rotate a carrier 180 degrees to get more length if necessary. You can also flip the saddles over and custom slot them for string spacing. I'm trying to source the manufacturer, it's either China or Taiwan. The saddle/carrier assembly is exactly the same used on some cheap single string bridges.
Nice work, keep it up! I like that bridge too.
I have one of those bridges but with the black finish. I haven't got far enough on my project yet to try it out tho. :-[ I've seen them on Ebay. Seem like nice solid bridges.
Your project is pretty damn cool btw!
Here's a source for those bridges in chrome, black or gold:
http://store.guitarfetish.com/ovtopmobabrs.html
http://store.guitarfetish.com/ovtopmobabrs1.html
http://store.guitarfetish.com/ovtopmobabrs2.html
Nice work dadagoboi! ;)
Wow, nice bridge for the money. Thanks!
Is this the same bridge...?
(http://i.ebayimg.com/07/!BuGS+iQCGk~$(KGrHqYH-CwEvsqjLO,6BL-6v0h,Mg~~_12.JPG)
£11.50 in the UK on greedbay
B10 - Bingo. We have a winner!
Pray-tel, how will you get the piece with the saddles to stay positioned on the bass, floating bridge?
if you look carefully at the saddles on these pics, you can see the set screw on the side of the saddle.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/sawingmaterial2.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u275/cathousemouse/sawingmaterial3.jpg)
I don't think that is what Bassvirtuoso meant to ask.
I think he meant: How does the (amputee) bridge itself stay put ?
Looks like Dadagoboi drilled extra holes in the base plate. Which shows at the E string side. The other is/are obscured by the saddes.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010853.jpg)
"Looks like Dadagoboi drilled extra holes in the base plate. Which shows at the E string side. The other is obscured by the saddle."
Correct. Also, I will be using FLAT HEAD #6 screws to hold down the base plate, at least on the G side, to get full adjustment. Oval head screws catch on the bottom of the carrier. You could grind the the center of the carrier to clear the oval head. But more trouble than it's worth IMO.
cool.i like the way that looks.is the bridge fairly heavy?
Quote from: tubehead on June 02, 2010, 06:27:24 PM
cool.i like the way that looks.is the bridge fairly heavy?
Weighs a little less than a Badass II.
Quote from: dadagoboi on June 01, 2010, 05:34:17 PM
I don't know how long it took you to figure it out but I've had that bridge for around 2 years. I'm sure you were quicker to realize the possibilities!
Quote from: dadagoboi on June 02, 2010, 04:38:24 AM
You can also flip the saddles over and custom slot them for string spacing.
I might have had the idea of cutting the bridge before you, but your idea of flipping the saddles for custom string spacing is something that didn't cross my mind.
This bridge gives a 19mm string-to-string spacing, I'll check if by flipping the saddles I can make it 18mm for short scale applications.
BTW, the B14 bridge on Kenny's pic has 18mm spacing, if anyone is interested.
OK! Let's see some basses with that puppy, hacked or not. It's still available from Grizzly, $16.95 for chrome, though shipping is high.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category.aspx?key=235080
They sell mostly tools and machinery but also some guitar/luthier stuff that's priced alright. Shipping becomes reasonable as you buy more $$.
Latest on my 'Bird. Routes for Pups done, those are Artecs covered in aluminum tape. Pot location is not set yet, I've decided to keep the Badass bridge I originally used on this bass. This AM I'll do gut contour and control cavity.
I've found the local distributor for pro Mohawk finishing products and will be placing an order for nitro lacquer and sanding sealer and stains/pigments, etc. Then the fun will really begin!
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010898.jpg)
Lookin' good!
Sure is :o That is going to be one hot machine!
i have used that $19 bridge before. only real issue is you can not get the action really low so the neck pocket needs to be just right. I put it on a neck thru with just the fretboard above the body and the bridge could not get down to the 1/4" without both filing the saddles a little and routing the body slightly. on an aftermarket type warmoth neck with a thick slab this shouldn't be a real issue but on a neck thru or real fender neck with a 1/8 or less fretboard the height issue will have to be dealth with.
Second bridge looks much better and string thru possibility.
are those the ebay artec's ? i just put their chrome ones in a bass last night. my initial comments are on artec pup section. Looks like you are putting a circuit in so single coil volume issue i have will not be a issue.
Jim
Wow, looking good! Nice work.
Quote from: jumbodbassman on June 04, 2010, 10:34:52 AM
i have used that $19 bridge before. only real issue is you can not get the action really low so the neck pocket needs to be just right. I put it on a neck thru with just the fretboard above the body and the bridge could not get down to the 1/4" without both filing the saddles a little and routing the body slightly. on an aftermarket type warmoth neck with a thick slab this shouldn't be a real issue but on a neck thru or real fender neck with a 1/8 or less fretboard the height issue will have to be dealth with.
Second bridge looks much better and string thru possibility.
are those the ebay artec's ? i just put their chrome ones in a bass last night. my initial comments are on artec pup section. Looks like you are putting a circuit in so single coil volume issue i have will not be a issue.
Jim
I originally put that bridge on a Fender jazz and had to shim the neck and file the saddles, didn't like the shallow string fall off so replaced it w/a vintage threaded bridge. But it works fine for projects where I cut my own neck pockets. Lace used this bridge on their helix basses and there was no way in hell I could get the action low enough. I replaced their stock saddles with my cut down jazz ones and it worked OK. Then I took a tracing of the body and sent the bass back for a refund, I had mainly bought it to see what their Alumatone pup sounded like anyway (this was in '08, pups not on the market yet). I like the way the pup sounded, I'm using one in my upcoming ergonomic project bass. Very flat response and passive. There's a thread on Talkbass.
That second bridge is $16 from Bezdez on the bay, it IS very nice, saddles lock down so length screws aren't necessary. I just decided to go with my original Badass for old times sake. I drilled it for string thru. This is a masonite pg mockup which will become the routing template once I get it right.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010909.jpg)
Those Artecs are from my Bricebird. Aluminum tape provides the chrome effect. Will be using EMG 35TWs which have both a stacked 'bucker and a single coil in the housing (3 coils) w/push pull pots and EMG pre. I had them in the Brice but will go back to the Artecs for it. Great post on the Ebay Artecs BTW. Here's the control cavity.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010919.jpg)
I have a set of emg tw's i plan on putting in a scroll body awaiting a scroll neck from CYR guitars. I intended to just use them as is as emg tends to not promote using a circuit with the tw's. I will await your review..... I haven't used them yet but i love emg's in most applications. You and i may be the only ones on this site that like them...
i actually have that other 16 bridge too from bezdez too. his stuff is usually on the mark and shipping from canada is pretty fast versus china.
recently discovered the alumatone pups on ebay but haven't comitted yet. how do they sound.??
that bass looks really sweet
Quote from: jumbodbassman on June 04, 2010, 11:38:15 AM
I have a set of emg tw's i plan on putting in a scroll body awaiting a scroll neck from CYR guitars. I intended to just use them as is as emg tends to not promote using a circuit with the tw's. I will await your review..... I haven't used them yet but i love emg's in most applications. You and i may be the only ones on this site that like them...
i actually have that other 16 bridge too from bezdez too. his stuff is usually on the mark and shipping from canada is pretty fast versus china.
recently discovered the alumatone pups on ebay but haven't comitted yet. how do they sound.??
that bass looks really sweet
I don't know if that pre is available from EMG anymore, it's a BQ
A, but it does work with the TWs. I got it from Carruthers' Guitars in Santa Monica. I liked the way the TWs sounded in the Brice. very reminiscent of my Bicentennial. EMG sez they are their most vintage sounding pup, what do I know? I doubt many people have actually heard them.
The Alumitone is the loudest passive pup I've ever heard, including DiMarzios. Very large range of XLNT tones w/no hum. Weighs 2 oz. I got mine from Aamps. They were so new the pickup mounting screws didn't fit the pup. I called Lace, got Don Lace himself, and he sent me the correct screws.
I've been very happy w/Bezdez, shipping is fast and cheap. Great prices.
Just scanned back thru and may have missed it but what fin are you going for... the Fiesta Red spirit of JAE...?
I'm thinking about a trans finish like this since it's ash, but I will be doing a Fiesta Red one next.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010496.jpg)
Nice... 8)
actually old schaller made dimarzios looks alikes are hottest ever - too hot. i have wired a few p bass with a series/parallel pot and the parallel sounds better. My darkstar is really hot also.
see thru Red fenderbird seems right. Imo see throughs look could in only certain colors. red and black are my favs.
Quote from: jumbodbassman on June 04, 2010, 01:09:38 PM
actually old schaller made dimarzios looks alikes are hottest ever - too hot. i have wired a few p bass with a series/parallel pot and the parallel sounds better. My darkstar is really hot also.
see thru Red fenderbird seems right. Imo see throughs look could in only certain colors. red and black are my favs.
Haven't played either the schallers or the dark stars. Someday...
This 'Bird was a dark metallic red originally so it seems fitting to do it red again.
I like all transparents but on ash I'm a sucker for Blondes
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/DSC00176.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/DSC00177-1.jpg)
I missed this thread! Cool project, nice work and great idea of the bridge. But you have to give her a new neck with a 4 in a row headstock...:)
Quote from: Chris P. on June 05, 2010, 09:25:43 AM
I missed this thread! Cool project, nice work and great idea of the bridge. But you have to give her a new neck with a 4 in a row headstock...:)
Thanks! This originally WAS a Fender 4 in a row headstock (LH, I like them) and unchopped when I did the original build. I got tired of neck dive and the humongous case needed (had to build that too). It now fits in a standard gig bag. And the case is in some landfill in NC minus hardware.
This one is MINE, for me. I've had it 28 years and it reminds me of the good and bad design choices made. There's another Fenderbird in the works, it will have a RH 4 in a line Fender headstock as well as original body shape, bridge/tailpiece etc. As close as I can get to the original-on the cheap.
I already thought it was a lefty neck. But of course it's your project and taste differs, fortunately:) I love the project and I will follow it with great interest!
I gotta work on my manners.
No, I have to do that:)
Quote from: dadagoboi on June 04, 2010, 05:01:41 PM
Haven't played either the schallers or the dark stars. Someday...
This 'Bird was a dark metallic red originally so it seems fitting to do it red again.
I like all transparents but on ash I'm a sucker for Blondes
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/DSC00176.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/DSC00177-1.jpg)
love the suttle grain showing through on the mary kay bass. really nice.
Started out as a tribute to my long gone '55 P Bass. Then I came across a Custom Shop neck and changed the build to a '57 spec. Duncan Raised A Antiquity pup. The finish is Minwax white stain under Mohawk nitro sealer and lacquer. Weighs a little under 8 lbs. Currently sporting correct bridge not the Gotoh shown
I cleaned up the self butchered headstock. Maple veneer, sealer, toner to blend into neck finish and clear.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010920.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1010931.jpg)
Pickguard is done, the body is ready for finish, I'm still waiting for supplies from Mohawk. Gonna shoot for trans orange, if that fails will try something else. Made a pup ring from a Strat trem cover, stuck some aluminum tape on it, I'll be looking into some sheet aluminum or stainless. Same trick w/the pups. Will have to redo them, alum tape is fragile. I may trim down that ring, it looks big. Decided to go with bridge/tailpiece set up.
Oh yeah, I had to reveneer the top. Titebond didn't work, it was my ineptitude. The ash veneer was old and buckled and I tried to fake cauls and clamping. For the reveneer I used contact cement. No bicycle tubes were involved but a windmill and wooden shoes were considered.
Anybody got a vacuum plating source?
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/P1020016.jpg)
Looks great! I have a couple sources for the vacuum rigs, but they are all way over priced!
That looks really great, a cool interpretation of JAEs famed bass !
Thanks for the encouragement guys! It's still a work in progress, pup ring and pg screws too big, etc. But eventually I'll get it closer.
Quote from: drbassman on June 26, 2010, 07:39:18 AM
Looks great! I have a couple sources for the vacuum rigs, but they are all way over priced!
Like how much overpriced? When I read "vaporize metal" was part of the process I realized it probably wasn't a DIY.
Lot of vac plating being done for car restorations but it does seem pricey, especially when you consider companies selling 'chrome' spray paint can afford to vac plate the caps on the cans. Aluminum looks worth investigating from 1 mil flashing to .080 sheet and up. Even the tape I'm using can be polished and probably clearcoated. There's also the metal formica type stuff.
I misunderstood you! I was thinking vacuum clamping veneers onto wood surfaces. You're talking metal palting, right? In that case, I don't know anything about it! :P
Quote from: drbassman on June 26, 2010, 12:34:43 PM
I misunderstood you! I was thinking vacuum clamping veneers onto wood surfaces. You're talking metal palting, right? In that case, I don't know anything about it! :P
Probably better not to know. I have an Onsrud inverted pin router, it came with a vac pump that would work for a veneer press. This is (was?) the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120580456940&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Should make multiple body production a lot easier. Analog, Baby!
Wow, I'd love one of those, but I keep blowing my money on basses!!! I gotta work on some new tools!
Quote from: drbassman on June 26, 2010, 01:20:01 PM
Wow, I'd love one of those, but I keep blowing my money on basses!!! I gotta work on some new tools!
For me the best antidote for G.A.S. is machinery to make your own. I think I read a post where you said something similar.
I'm basically a bolt on guy so builds are fairly simple once you take making necks out of the equation.
I do love adding to my equipment, but every now and then I see something I just have to buy to calm my GAS. I might have to sell a few things to work on my shop some more.
I'm depending on the machines to keep the GAS at bay for a while. I've got too many projects that need to be completed and now I have no excuse for not finishing them.
I've always preferred to use antacid tablets... easier on the throat... ;D
I realy love that you made your own version and not a copy (exact replicas a great i am working on one myself) My first build in 1981 was my version of a Fenderbird built to suit me. The body is sandwiched 7/8" Honduran mahogany hand carved. powered by a single Dimarzio Model G. The body at it's thickest point is 1 1/2" :o I was working under the theory more mass =more sustain with this bass it most certainly does ! Loud and aggressive this bass is not to be messed with. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/100_1695.jpg)
Quote from: godofthunder on June 27, 2010, 03:01:50 PM
I realy love that you made your own version and not a copy (exact replicas a great i am working on one myself) My first build in 1981 was my version of a Fenderbird built to suit me. The body is sandwiched 7/8" Honduran mahogany hand carved. powered by a single Dimarzio Model G. The body at it's thickest point is 1 1/2" :o I was working under the theory more mass =more sustain with this bass it most certainly does ! Loud and aggressive this bass is not to be messed with.
COOL! I love the way the body radiates from the center. My 'bird dates from '81 too, it's about 1 1/2" thick, done with a craftsman jigsaw and router from an ash blank I had somebody glue up. I don't know why I thought I needed higher fret access but I guess Big Hair craziness had taken over. I've cut almost 2 inches off the lower horn and made the body less angular since then. I think I've seen the one you're working on, looking forward to the results. Real men use real honduras.
You're in good company with Scott an myself there - Scott's "Butcherbird" and my Thunderbird have higher access than normal, and mine was built that way...
Finally got some color laid on the body after recuperating from my encounter with an angry router. Gotta mix a corrected color coat and then shoot some clear. I've solved the blush problem by painting around 3 PM when the humidity is lowest and also switched back to an old fashioned siphon feed spray gun instead of gravity feed. This is gonna be a good week, hopefully I get my Bachbird and my Blunderbird back!
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/Charlie/DSC01899-1.jpg)
i'm glad your hand is healing...it is always good to get back to work. this paintjob looks nice ... love the color
Great project so far, dadagoboi!
To digress, that's a nice Ducati Monster in the background!
Hmmm. Loves me some RED!
Humidity has been ridiculous this week, gave up trying to shoot clear. I realized there was enough lacquer to color sand and buff. Will do final buff in 2 weeks but I had to put it together. I've been waiting a loooong time for this. The color is Fiesta Red, called Salmon Pink by JAE. I mixed it by matching a Fiesta P I have. The pups are 35 series EMGs with my custom toppers and rings.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2010%20Fenderbird/DSC01987.jpg)
Great job! I've always loved that color.
I also note that you have straight string pull to all of you tuners as well - well done!
Looks great!! I had to stop with the clear coat on my Epi re-build in doing because of the high heat & humidity. Be glad when the weather changes again. :sad:
That is very very cool.
I'd be really curious to hear what it sounds like!!
tasty.
Dynamite!!!!!!!!!!!!! I love it. You've inspired me to do one someday!
Quote from: Lightyear on August 15, 2010, 05:42:20 PM
Great job! I've always loved that color.
I also note that you have straight string pull to all of you tuners as well - well done!
Thanks. I have to add an E&A string retainer. I plugged the holes and redrilled for the mini tuners. Weight is 9 lbs w/no neck dive.
Quote from: Nokturnal on August 15, 2010, 05:49:19 PM
Looks great!! I had to stop with the clear coat on my Epi re-build in doing because of the high heat & humidity. Be glad when the weather changes again. :sad:
Humidity in Aridzona? That's gotta be unusual.
Quote from: slinkp on August 15, 2010, 05:49:29 PM
I'd be really curious to hear what it sounds like!!
I'll try to post some clips once I do the final set up.
Quote from: drbassman on August 15, 2010, 06:43:57 PM
Dynamite!!!!!!!!!!!!! I love it. You've inspired me to do one someday!
Right back at ya. Gonna do me a Billy Bo after seeing yours.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2010%20Fenderbird/DSC01999.jpg)
Looking great! Very JAE-ish and full fret access is a plus.
And the bridge setup came out better than I expected. Nice work!
Great work Carlo!
Still impressed by that home made bridge tailpiece combination; Very good idea!
The toppers and rings look excellent too. Got any close up shots?
That turned out great, nice job.
Thanks everyone for the encouragement and compliments
Quote from: Basvarken on August 16, 2010, 02:56:17 AM
Great work Carlo!
Still impressed by that home made bridge tailpiece combination; Very good idea!
The toppers and rings look excellent too. Got any close up shots?
I'm going to give the bridge part a slight radius on the back corners to make the cut less obvious, otherwise I'm fairly satisfied. The bridge is almost perfect height w/o turning a screw on the saddle height adjusters. I like my action very low for this kind of bass.
The shop is getting a long needed cleaning today but I'll post some closeups soon. Been working on toppers and rings for TB black plastic pups and those are almost done. Many thanks to Denis for the pup to use for template making.
Here's a 'mule' with EMG and a TB+ topper and modified TB+ ring to fit 35 series pups. The ring lying on the table is a modified, the one below (partial) is the TB+ ring. The extra hole tells me it's a prototype.
Actually, I just screwed it up ;D
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2010%20Fenderbird/DSC01983.jpg)
Killer!
Looks cool! Kind of like a "vintage modern space age" take on a Fenderbird. Just looking at it, I bet it plays nice. What's the name of that color?
Quote from: gearHed289 on August 16, 2010, 09:50:21 AM
Looks cool! Kind of like a "vintage modern space age" take on a Fenderbird. Just looking at it, I bet it plays nice. What's the name of that color?
Thanks, I'm calling it Fenderbird 2010, even though I started the build in 1982. It does play good, the neck is a 1 5/8" wide 'C' shape Charvel LH Pbass from the early 80's. The color is Fiesta Red, a Fender custom color that JAE called Salmon Pink. It's more like a pinkish orange. I mixed it from clear Nitrocellulose tinted with red, yellow and white Universal Tinting Color. I'm pretty sure it was originally a '55 Ford color.
Works for me... ;)
Decided the bridge needed some help. Removed 1/4 inch (6mm) from the back and moved it and tailpiece forward. Couldn't get the EMG pre to work so each pup now has a tone pot with .1 mfd cap. I like the sound of the EMGs, will be installing SSB-4s to compare
Before
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2010%20Fenderbird/LargeBridge.jpg)
After
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2010%20Fenderbird/LaborDay2.jpg)
Strat jack plate has been part of the project from the beginning, allows the cord to be captured under the strap and make it less likely to pull out accidentally...that's my story and I'm sticking to it ;D For 'strap locks' I prefer fender washers and long screws for any bass that gets used on stage.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/2010%20Fenderbird/JACK-1.jpg)
Great work Carlo! It looks fantastic. :toast:
But the pickguard needs some fine tuning IMHO.
The area where the bridge pickup surround meets the pick guard.
And the part where the pick guard almost meets the edge of the lower horn.
Here's a suggestion:
(http://www.superfloor.net/carlofenderbrid-pickguard.jpg)
Second alternative for the bridge pickup area.
(http://www.superfloor.net/carlofenderbrid-pickguard2.jpg)
Thanks, Rob! It will be corrected if/when THIS Bird goes into production or if I take it to NAMM. The guard was cut before I decided to do the pup rings. I think it has to split the distance between the pups and the top curve has to be slightly different, basically your second alternative.
This bass presented problems in that it's been around since '83. It had been hanging on my wall sans electronics taunting me for years before I stumbled upon LBO. The neck should attach to the body one fret lower, the pups are not centered vertically and the bottom horn is still too big IMO, even though I've trimmed it twice. The original control cavity doesn't allow any more trimming. Those are TB+ size rings and toppers, bigger than 60's dimensions, that would also affect the appearance. Everything is always a matter of mm.