Shadow gave me a great idea. Let's post pictures/descriptions of our home made tools we use in our building/rehabbing shops. I'll kick things off with my home made fret press. It's a $49 Harbor Freight arbor press and a Stew Mac fret caul set up. Works great and I can use it to press other stuff as well.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2024.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2021.jpg)
Here's my home made router table. I can even adjust the bit height from above with my 3/16" nut drive. Cost me $10 to make..............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_1517.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_1519.jpg)
Gave me some good ideas
I have the workshop counter built , but need to build a wall and get it heated
Thanks
Robert VanLane
there are so many things you can build yourself. I'm working on a buffing station now and will post pictures when I finish it.
Here's the buffing station with the arbor attached. I ordered a 1/3 hp motor that comes in on Monday, then I'll mount that to the back of the stand and we're good to go!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2218.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2219.jpg)
Here are the 12" wheels from SM I'll use..............
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2220.jpg)
I dread the - most certainly imminent here - pics of Scott's Saw II ... :o :-X :-\
Quote from: uwe on February 05, 2009, 04:10:17 AM
I dread the - most certainly imminent here - pics of Scott's Saw II ... :o :-X :-\
Yeah, and even better would be an action shot of the dismembering of some unsuspecting T-Bird!!!!!!!!!!!! :vader:
Yes, with a mad grin he would say to the bass, "now this might hurt just a little ..., but it's all for the sake of advancing your species ...". House of Pain.
No pain, no gain, as they say in the NFL! 8)
I made some changes to my station. I decided it would be better to mount the motor directly below the arbor. Better location than trying to hang it off the back. So I cut pass through holes in the two shelves and now I have the motor mounted just under the second shelf. Gotta add a 58" fan belt and I'm finished!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2221.jpg)
This is my dust collector/ sanding station with the florescent light grill on top. doc,Im glad you started this because I needed to change my filters.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/shadowcastaz/IMGP0884.jpg)
The front panel comes off of 4 threaded posts with wing nuts.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/shadowcastaz/IMGP0885.jpg)
this motor I got from Grainger. It is basically a squirrel cage blower wired to a basic light switch on side.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/shadowcastaz/IMGP0885.jpg)
this shows the 2 filter slots. 2 stage,coarse and fine . Basic 20"x20" furnace filters
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/shadowcastaz/IMGP0886.jpg)
Its pretty quiet. No louder than a window box fan on med...Oh yeah, it blows air towards the floor.
Thanks Shadow, I'm definitely gonna make one of those for my shop. Also going to invest in a room dust collector to hang on the ceiling too. Just too much dust in there!
Id make the one like I did 1st. I found that along with shop vac attached to my sanders and my chip collector, leaving this on in a corner take care of all the dust in my shop. I built it for a dust collector and ended up using it for a sanding station a few years later. I keep mine in mid shop against a lolly column(sp)
Quote from: shadowcastaz on February 21, 2009, 07:26:10 AM
Id make the one like I did 1st. I found that along with shop vac attached to my sanders and my chip collector, leaving this on in a corner take care of all the dust in my shop. I built it for a dust collector and ended up using it for a sanding station a few years later. I keep mine in mid shop against a lolly column(sp)
That's great, dual usage, I love it! Thanks.
Hey Mike, what's the cfm rating on your blower?
490 cfm or so.
Quote from: shadowcastaz on February 23, 2009, 08:23:29 PM
490 cfm or so.
Thanks Mike, I'll bet that was a good picture of you crawling in! Say, I need a more powerful shop vac, do you suppose I could put a fitting on the side and do the same thing and get dual use out of it?
When i 1st made this it was always in the way. I kept bumping into it,which is my tendency anyway. I got used to it being in my shop as a piece of furniture.
I use 3 shop vacs .1 is big and old and is tied into my 2" dust collection system mounted on the wall behind my equipment.it is on the other side of a wall so its quiet
# 2 is small and I attach to my sanders and routers. stores easy,
#3 is a ridged wet dry that I use as a vac around the shop. Its quiet and can hold a basket ball off the floor no problem. You would not want the shop vac noise, even if you get a quiet one. the air filter runs very quiet by comparison to a shop vac. Unless you put it in another room and pipe in from your shop with an extra hose. still a noise factor wherever you have the vac.
If you know anyone in the home heating biz, the squirel fans they use in forced air heating systems are what you need . I could not find one at the time. They usually junk them . A lot of home owner are upgrading to more contemporary systems for heat. Check with your local burner man and tell him you looking for a used fan . Cant hurt . Save some $$.
A couple times a year I usually put the air filter on in mid shop and use the extensions on the shop vac, connected to the exhaust and blow the dust off the ceiling/joists,lights and corners. leave the air cleaner on and do again in a couple hours
What are the dimensions of your shop?
You need a separate dust collection system. An air cleaner is fine for what it does, but it doesn't suck up dust.
yeah what Dave said. :mrgreen:
I get long winded some times. :rolleyes:
Quote from: shadowcastaz on February 24, 2009, 09:42:43 AM
yeah what Dave said. :mrgreen:
I get long winded some times. :rolleyes:
I hear ya both!
All finished (except for a switch plate cover). Can't wait to use it once things warm up around here!
Total cost for everything was around $210, including buffing wheels
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2299.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2300.jpg)
That is MAJOR buffage you have there!
And a recent issue of the Family Handyman magazine had a short feature on a jig one can build to mount the hose of a shop-vac onto an arm which can be adjusted for dust pickup around many shop tools. I'll take a look and see if I can scan it and post it as a PDF soon - including parts list.
Quote from: Pilgrim on March 01, 2009, 10:29:50 PM
That is MAJOR buffage you have there!
And a recent issue of the Family Handyman magazine had a short feature on a jig one can build to mount the hose of a shop-vac onto an arm which can be adjusted for dust pickup around many shop tools. I'll take a look and see if I can scan it and post it as a PDF soon - including parts list.
You can buy a dust hood on a stand from several sources (Woodcraft, for one). It's meant for a dust collection system but with the proper adapter it could be used with a shop vac.
I agree with Dave. A simple dust hood is a good idea and not that expensive. I just clamp my vac hose near my work pieces when there's going to be a lot of chips flying. Works pretty good. I need something to collect the very fine dust that floats all over my shop when sanding or doing fine work. That's why I'm gonna build a box like shadow's.
Just last week I was sanding for a few minutes on a mahogany neck and didn't put a mask on. Later that night, my lips were tingling from breathing in that dust for a very brief time. I'm learning that I'm allergic to mahogany dust.
More likely you've acquired a sensitivity to it. Just hope it doesn't get worse.
Quote from: Dave W on March 02, 2009, 02:58:09 PM
More likely you've acquired a sensitivity to it. Just hope it doesn't get worse.
For sure.
OK. I scanned the one-page article from the Family Handyman and uplodaed it to a file storage site I use. It's a PDF that should print just fine. It describes how to build a general purpose jig that allows you to use your shop-vac for many dust collection applications.
http://www.box.net/shared/ve5mhr47vr (http://www.box.net/shared/ve5mhr47vr)
Not too long ago, I bought one of those dust masks with twin cartridges that makes me look like a Martian - but they do work.
Pilgrim I like the shop tip. doc ,That is a hot buffer. I think she may need a bra! :mrgreen:
Quote from: Pilgrim on March 03, 2009, 08:54:10 AM
OK. I scanned the one-page article from the Family Handyman and uplodaed it to a file storage site I use. It's a PDF that should print just fine. It describes how to build a general purpose jig that allows you to use your shop-vac for many dust collection applications.
http://www.box.net/shared/ve5mhr47vr (http://www.box.net/shared/ve5mhr47vr)
Not too long ago, I bought one of those dust masks with twin cartridges that makes me look like a Martian - but they do work.
I have both dust masks and the hazardous fumes one too. I just get lazy sometimes and don't put them on!
Quote from: shadowcastaz on March 03, 2009, 09:41:17 AM
Pilgrim I like the shop tip. doc ,That is a hot buffer. I think she may need a bra! :mrgreen:
I always thought it was Buffy, not buffer, that needed the bra.....but whadda I know?
Quote from: Pilgrim on March 03, 2009, 11:40:29 AM
I always thought it was Buffy, not buffer, that needed the bra.....but whadda I know?
Hmm...buffy, eh?
You can always give it a nickname. ;)
Buffy the Nitro Flayer?
Quote from: Pilgrim on March 04, 2009, 01:45:53 PM
You can always give it a nickname. ;)
Buffy the Nitro Flayer?
:rimshot:
He'll be here all night, folks!
Budd a bing, budd a boom!
Try the veal, folks!
I prefer standing when working on tedious projects, so I constructed this inlay work station. It has a 360 degree vise that let's me rotate the work without unclamping it every time. It also tilts so I can angle the work toward me a little. Works great so far!
Notice the foot switch on the floor, really helpful for keeping both hands on the router at start up/off.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2361.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2362.jpg)
Quote from: drbassman on April 12, 2009, 06:17:01 AM
I prefer standing when working on tedious projects, so I constructed this inlay work station. It has a 360 degree vise that let's me rotate the work without unclamping it every time. It also tilts so I can angle the work toward me a little. Works great so far!
Notice the foot switch on the floor, really helpful for keeping both hands on the router at start up/off.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2361.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2362.jpg)
I have that exact little silver vice mounted on my desk here at work!
I got it from a buddy who closed his shop years ago. Heh we all have our vices.
Would you be kind enough to provide me with your method statement (in officious English accent)...? ;D
Got my latest StewMac catalog yesterday. On page 40."Freehand Holder". I'd been trying to come up with a spray stand, this will work for me. 1/2" EMT and a 3lb sledge to flatten, maple legs. 3/4 inch speedbore bit supplies enough friction to hold body where needed and allow easy rotation.
It will also double as a stand for grinder, etc. with mdf for stand top and shelf, so it won't be just taking up space 90% of the time. EMT removes easily.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/P1020054-1.jpg)
Make sure you use a counterbalance, ya here... ;)
Quote from: Kenny's 51st State on July 07, 2010, 11:40:19 AM
Make sure you use a counterbalance, ya here... ;)
I considered using an extra large bucket of KFC but didn't for obvious reasons.
never know, a bit of chicken grease might enchance the finish! ???
might be in order to carry it as a proprietary finish!!!
Quote from: sniper dog on July 07, 2010, 12:55:36 PM
never know, a bit of chicken grease might enchance the finish! ???
might be in order to carry it as a proprietary finish!!!
We could bring in the Colonel, get his secret recipe and franchise 'em. Kentucky Fried Thunderbirds
I wonder if they recycle the oil for fuel - lots of guys wandering off after the smell of a KFC from the exhaust of a passing truck... :puke: ;)
I solved my fret press dilema - being that I don't have one ;D I was thinking I coulp put the StewMac caul in my drill press to set fret and did a Google search and Voila! Instant fret press!
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=3972
For the amount of fretting I'll be doing this should work just fine - I will make a cradle though.
Very neat...
My brother is a steamfitter and had 2 of these portabands. I made a table out of some scrap and used the handle to hold it in place. Works really well for cutting aluminum pup rings or pot metal bridges.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/P1020081.jpg)
Quote from: drbassman on January 26, 2009, 06:05:34 AM
Shadow gave me a great idea. Let's post pictures/descriptions of our home made tools we use in our building/rehabbing shops. I'll kick things off with my home made fret press. It's a $49 Harbor Freight arbor press and a Stew Mac fret caul set up. Works great and I can use it to press other stuff as well.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2024.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/Misc%20Stuff/100_2021.jpg)
I have the arbor press. Does the "fret caul" have a built in arc to it to match the fret board?
Or is it flat or how does that work?
???
The fret caul is designed to accept brass inserts with different radii. You have to drill a hole in the arbor press ram to accept the shank of the caul.
So is it a flexible blade or something?
The cauls and the bracket are available from Stew-Mac online. The have a radius in various sizes, like 7.5, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, and 20. Check out their site, there's lots of good info on them. Each fret board has a curve and you have to bend the frets to install them and either press or hammer them in.
Stew Mac caul (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Pressing/Fret_Press_Caul.html) and inserts (http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/product/4367)
They aren't flexible.
Quote from: Dave W on October 25, 2011, 05:59:54 PM
Stew Mac caul (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Pressing/Fret_Press_Caul.html) and inserts (http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/product/4367)
They aren't flexible.
I said "you have to bend the frets" not the cauls. Meaning the fret wire, of course.
Quote from: drbassman on October 25, 2011, 06:27:58 PM
I said "you have to bend the frets" not the cauls. Meaning the fret wire, of course.
Right, but Greg asked if the inserts were flexible blades.
Quote from: Dave W on October 25, 2011, 06:30:28 PM
Right, but Greg asked if the inserts were flexible blades.
That didn't sink in! My mild dyslexia trips me up occasionally.
Just wondered how one tool could accommodate all the radii and the answer is it doesn't.
Nice kit, but a bit on the spendy side
I'm a bit surprised there are standards that all the various manufacturers adhere to.
IMHO not really expensive for a specialty tool.
Some Stew-Mac stuff is quite high, depends on how much use you get out of it and how much time you can save if you're in the business of building or repairing. Some other stuff is reasonable when you consider it's small batch manufacturing or having to buy small numbers an existing tool and having it modified to their specs.
And if you're not in business and have more time than money, sometimes you can come up with a solution that doesn't require a lot of cash.
Quote from: Greg_M on October 26, 2011, 11:15:43 AM
Just wondered how one tool could accommodate all the radii and the answer is it doesn't.
Nice kit, but a bit on the spendy side
I'm a bit surprised there are standards that all the various manufacturers adhere to.
Actually, it can accommodate just about any common radius, unless you have something really unusual in mind. I have 6 or 7 of the cauls and they work quite well. As for standards, that'll never happen. Everyone has their own idea of what's best for a particular instrument.
Reckon it might be worth updating this with your new goodies, Bill...?
Carlo's bound to have a bit of input that's worthwhile too...
The best new tool I've found in a while is repetition of a task. Leads to accuracy and efficiency. Downside is boredom. Audio books help.
A sixteen year old pianist I knew taught me a very simple truth... perfect practice makes perfect...
As you say, the downside of repetition is boredom...
OK, here are my two most recent homemade tools. A sanding box and binding scrapers.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0037_zps5b85e42f.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0037_zps5b85e42f.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0036_zps1fc164a0.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/DOC%20BASS%20Pics/DSCN0036_zps1fc164a0.jpg.html)
Just made my own pin router. I had two manufactured products and they both were major hassles to use and align properly. I just need something simple and efficient. So here it is. The key is having everything square and perpendicular.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1302_zpsy9xdbu3p.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1302_zpsy9xdbu3p.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1303_zpshzeiljjw.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1303_zpshzeiljjw.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1304_zps96tzuii1.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1304_zps96tzuii1.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1305_zpshna2ssbr.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1305_zpshna2ssbr.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1307_zpszlykodwj.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1307_zpszlykodwj.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1310_zpsviw3psuu.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1310_zpsviw3psuu.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1309_zpso2qq7lvs.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1309_zpso2qq7lvs.jpg.html)
Nice! I'm jealous ;)
Quote from: Basvarken on February 03, 2016, 09:20:26 AM
Nice! I'm jealous ;)
Don't be, it was easy to build. Patience and exact measuring were the biggest ingredients. Only cost about $40 in materials.
Great job, Doc! How many HP (or amps) is your router?
8)
Quote from: dadagoboi on February 03, 2016, 12:31:23 PM
Great job, Doc! How many HP (or amps) is your router?
Thanks! My router is a PC 1 3/4 hp, 11 amp model. They do make 3+ho models.
I have that 11 amp PC, used to have the 15 amp 3+hp PC. My Onsrud pin router uses a Bosch 115V, ~3 HP, it's old and out of production. The newer ones use the big Porter Cable wired 220. The more power the better.
I also use Onsrud solid carbide upcut spiral router bits. They give a cleaner cut and last longer than straight cut bits.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Onsrud-52-362-CNC-1-2-Solid-Carbide-Spiral-2-Flute-Upcut-Router-Bit-/111884914857?hash=item1a0cdc50a9:g:zosAAOSwLVZV28NR
That's a pretty good price. New they're almost $70 IIRC
That's a dandy. Now you need a foot-operated router lift.
Love the home made router table! Here's a couple of our store bought ones. :mrgreen:
Quote from: dadagoboi on February 03, 2016, 09:26:09 PM
I have that 11 amp PC, used to have the 15 amp 3+hp PC. My Onsrud pin router uses a Bosch 115V, ~3 HP, it's old and out of production. The newer ones use the big Porter Cable wired 220. The more power the better.
I also use Onsrud solid carbide upcut spiral router bits. They give a cleaner cut and last longer than straight cut bits.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Onsrud-52-362-CNC-1-2-Solid-Carbide-Spiral-2-Flute-Upcut-Router-Bit-/111884914857?hash=item1a0cdc50a9:g:zosAAOSwLVZV28NR
That's a pretty good price. New they're almost $70 IIRC
I have 2 each of the 1/4" and 1/2" Onsrud bits already, so I should be OK. Might pick up a third one at that price. I'm going to try my router on the first couple bodies to see how it does. I'll go to a heavier duty router if I have to. No big deal.
Quote from: Dave W on February 03, 2016, 09:35:42 PM
That's a dandy. Now you need a foot-operated router lift.
Yeah, I can imagine how handy that would be. Since my pin setup is for guitar application, it will be fine. Besides, the router is easy to adjust from below with the Porter Cable adjustment ring. Very easy and quick!
Quote from: gearHed289 on February 04, 2016, 09:08:18 AM
Love the home made router table! Here's a couple of our store bought ones. :mrgreen:
I'd love a manufactured industrial pin router, but they are way out of my league. My luthier buddy has one and I'm so envious!
Quote from: drbassman on February 05, 2016, 06:52:40 AM
Yeah, I can imagine how handy that would be. Since my pin setup is for guitar application, it will be fine. Besides, the router is easy to adjust from below with the Porter Cable adjustment ring. Very easy and quick!
Even so, it's nice to be able to lower the bit while you're holding onto the workpiece.
2nd hand market ... ?
Quote from: Highlander on February 06, 2016, 11:54:37 AM
2nd hand market ... ?
For a foot operated router lift? I doubt it. MLCS made an aftermarket power lift but it was nearly $400 and it's discontinued. And it couldn't be adapted to some router tables.
The ones I've seen (aside from industrial machines) have been homemade. Foot pedals that operate a rod that pushes up against the router, treadle-type pedals that operate with a pulley and springs, etc. Really depends on your router and table.
Relatively easy way would be to utilize a plunge router.
A foot pedal is really unnecessary. I just predrill a pilot hole to my desired depth and use it to set the bit for each pass. The PC router is easy to adjust depth, just unlock and spin upwards or down. Just takes a few seconds and costs nothing.
Quote from: dadagoboi on February 06, 2016, 07:19:13 PM
Relatively easy way would be to utilize a plunge router.
Even though you're not a factory churning out bodies all day, don't you find the lift on your Onsrud useful? I have a Freud plunge router in my table with a crank lift accessible from above. It's nice but if I were in business like you are, I'd upgrade as soon as I could.
Quote from: drbassman on February 07, 2016, 04:45:09 AM
A foot pedal is really unnecessary. I just predrill a pilot hole to my desired depth and use it to set the bit for each pass. The PC router is easy to adjust depth, just unlock and spin upwards or down. Just takes a few seconds and costs nothing.
Of course you don't need it. But if your goal is production, it's a time saver.
I won't belabor the point. As long as you're happy with what you have, that's all that matters.
Quote from: Dave W on February 07, 2016, 05:51:31 PM
Even though you're not a factory churning out bodies all day, don't you find the lift on your Onsrud useful? I have a Freud plunge router in my table with a crank lift accessible from above. It's nice but if I were in business like you are, I'd upgrade as soon as I could.
Of course you don't need it. But if your goal is production, it's a time saver.
I won't belabor the point. As long as you're happy with what you have, that's all that matters.
There is a certain ease of use and time saving with pedal operated bit, but my idea of production is two or three a month. So, the cost and set up of a pro rig just seems like a bit much for me. The cheapest one I ever saw was the Shop Fox bench mount, but required pneumatics to operate the bit and 220v for the router. It would have been the best one at $495 new but they don't make them any more. Everything else is way too big/industrial for my needs.
So I'll manage for now.
Here's my first run with the pin router. I'm going for a big body, 2" model, with a fancy top. It worked really well. The first cut was smooth and the second cut is a bit off because I suspect my router mounting plate is out of alignment by a few hundredths of an inch on one side. Gotta work on that. Nothing a little sand paper can't fix for now.
I was rummaging thru a storage box and found my old pin router that was always a PITA to set up. It has this nice mechanism for holding one of four different pins and is retractable for moving pieces in and it. So, I enlarged the mounting hole to accommodate it and put some thumbscrews in to hold it in place. Really nifty now!
To improve cutting and reduce burning/tearout, I bought a double compression 1/2" bit that cuts upward and downward simultaneously. It did a great job and no burns or other cutting issues.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1318_zps96urxkea.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1318_zps96urxkea.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1320_zpsq0keypet.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1320_zpsq0keypet.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1321_zpsc23bcbkb.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1321_zpsc23bcbkb.jpg.html)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/drbassman/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1323_zpsdqm0dq3r.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/drbassman/media/PIN%20ROUTER/DSCN1323_zpsdqm0dq3r.jpg.html)
Very slick bit, I have to give one of those a try!
Quote from: dadagoboi on March 07, 2016, 07:25:27 AM
Very slick bit, I have to give one of those a try!
Yep, I'm impressed with it thus far.
Refresh my memory, which one was your old pin router arm? The Daisy?
Yes please drop us the brand.
Quote from: Rob on March 07, 2016, 12:14:17 PM
Yes please drop us the brand.
It is the Veritas router arm. You can buy it separately and attach it to your router table or buy their steel table to go along with it.
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=212
Thanks Doc!
Quote from: Dave W on March 07, 2016, 10:27:02 AM
Refresh my memory, which one was your old pin router arm? The Daisy?
I tried the Daisy too. Very inaccurate, too much play in the pin mechanism to render a piece correctly. Waste of $40.
I've seen the Veritas before too. It does look much more substantial than the Daisy, which looks like it might be okay for very light work only. Too bad you can't buy the regular guide pins separately.
Quote from: Dave W on March 07, 2016, 09:07:02 PM
I've seen the Veritas before too. It does look much more substantial than the Daisy, which looks like it might be okay for very light work only. Too bad you can't buy the regular guide pins separately.
Yeah, the guide pins and the receiver they fit into are first class. The receiver is also retractable, so you can raise the pin and remove the work piece easier. The problem with the arm is the attachment screws which go into a clamp on the end of the arm.
After centering the arm over the router's center, you then have to tighten the arm mounting screws into the clamp mechanism. Every time you tighten the screws, the arm/clamp move ever so slightly and screws up the alignment by a few hundredths of an inch. It is maddening! I think the best way is to leave the clamp off and put screw directly through the arm holes into the table. I'm going to try that sometime just to see if it works.
Right now, I'm really happy with my homemade set up and it's easy to remove and set back up!
Are the guide pins solid?
Quote from: Dave W on March 08, 2016, 10:52:36 PM
Are the guide pins solid?
Yes, they are solid aluminum and came in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4" sizes. They snap right into the receiver for quick insertion or removal.
Oops, I forgot the pointy pin for tracing things. Pretty cool.
Quote from: drbassman on March 09, 2016, 07:45:44 PM
Yes, they are solid aluminum and came in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4" sizes. They snap right into the receiver for quick insertion or removal.
Oops, I forgot the pointy pin for tracing things. Pretty cool.
I was thinking that if they were hollow, you could chuck a sold steel round the size of the inner diameter into the router collet to align and clamp in place, then substitute the actual router bit.
Yeah, that would work too. The Veritas method is just lining up a 1/2" stud mounted in the router collet with the 1/2" pin. I like using the 1/2" ID sleeve I got at Lowes.
Quote from: drbassman on March 10, 2016, 05:44:27 AM
Yeah, that would work too. The Veritas method is just lining up a 1/2" stud mounted in the router collet with the 1/2" pin. I like using the 1/2" ID sleeve I got at Lowes.
Good idea. Can't you clamp it in place that way, then lower the router enough to put in the actual bit while the pin is already clamped? Or isn't there enough room?
Quote from: Dave W on March 10, 2016, 07:14:57 AM
Good idea. Can't you clamp it in place that way, then lower the router enough to put in the actual bit while the pin is already clamped? Or isn't there enough room?
That's exactly what I do. In fact, I can raise or lower the router or the pin as much as needed the way things are set up now. The nice thing about the PC router base is you can drop the router out from the bottom, change bits and slide it back in with ease. Takes no time at all and you have several inches of play to let you raise or lower the router/bit.
I like it!