The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: Pilgrim on October 10, 2008, 02:54:10 PM
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I just scored what I think will be a nice Epi EB-3 on Ebay. One bridge mounting pin is loose, which - based on past threads I've read - is not unusual.
Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=380069556279&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=025
Any recommendations no how to secure that loose mounting pin? I'm thinking super glue, because I don't think I'll ever want to remove it again. But before I start using super glue on anything, I like to consider less drastic alternatives.
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I've used CA glue on numerous Epi 3-pointers and it works fine. If the hole is really loose, I'd consider a maple plug and redrill before I glue.
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CA (super glue ) will do the trick, you only have to coat the walls of the hole with it to tighten up the insert, in other words don't glue the insert in, just make a tighter fit for it.
You can do the same thing with any of the wood ( Titebond,etc. ) glues if you want something a bit easier to clean up if you get too crazy ( pun intended ) with it.
Scott
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This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping for! Anyone else?
And BTW, I'm about to sell my pristine EB-0 to pay for the EB-3...............see my post in the Bass Zone or check the Ebay auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=130261960564&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=003
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seen that and i thought it was a good buy.
be sure to take pics showing us dummies (mainly me) how to do if posible. i just bought a pristine used EPI EBO - wish i had known...sorry to late. but it will go good with that old gibby pup and those grovers i got. maybe someday i can get it a real wood body!
this week end i'm starting the trunion joint routing in my SG body for that 34" (gonna be a 32") scale neck i got from GreatDealz and rebuilding a puter.
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I'd use superglue. It's not particularly heat resistant, if you ever needed to remove it.
If it's way loose for some reason, then you might want to plug and redrill, as Bill said. From the auction pic, though, it just looks like it's not quite tight enough.
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That's what I'm hoping. I have no objection to 15-minute repair jobs when they work!
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I'll post some pix this weekend. The fix was indeed about a 15-minute job, but I got some really good ideas from this thread. The one I liked the most was not to apply glue to the pin, but to the inside of the hole. That way glue could not scrape off the pin onto the finish when I inserted it.
Pix coming......probably Saturday. I'm in KC for a conference.
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Glad it worked out. I've had to repair just about every Epi I've ever had with a 3-pointer.
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OK....here's a shot of the full bass from the Ebay auction:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/EB-3fullshot.jpg)
And here's a shot of the loose bridge pin from the Ebay auction:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/EB-3liftedbridgepin-2.jpg)
Here's a shot of the loose pin, taken on my bench:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/PA140055.jpg)
Here's the pin sitting on the bass - just in case there's someone else who hadn't seen one of these removed. It turned out that the pin required a good tug to remove it, so I decided that no filling and drilling would be required - just glue.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/PA140056.jpg)
I REALLY liked the idea mentioned above that it would be good to apply glue to the inside of the hole. If I had applied it to the outside of the pin, chances are that it would have scraped off as the pin went in, potentially compromising the finish on the bass. Note that I put masking tape around the hole anyway to protect the finish.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/PA140057.jpg)
Here's the pin after tapping it into place with the rubber hammer shown in the shot. Note to self: next time, nimrod, remove the masking tape BEFORE tapping the pin into final position so that you don't trap the edges of the tape under the pin shoulders. I got the visible tape remainder out with extremely careful penknife work.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/PA140058.jpg)
The pin is now firmly secured, and if either of the others pull out, I am now confident that re-installing them will require only a few minutes' work.
I think this EB-3 will receive a set of Labella Jamerson flatwounds later today. The stock strings are skinny roundwounds and I'm not sure they're to my taste; I have two sets of Jamersons hanging around and I can't think of any reason not to indulge my taste for flatwounds with one of those sets. I keep the other set as a spare in case I ever break a string during a gig (never happened so far).
I've played a bit with the 3-position pickup switch and the bridge pickup is definitely too tinny for my taste soloed. The middle position (both pickups) seems best to my ear. There is definitely some neck dive, but I'm playing with various straps to mitigate that. The inlays on the neck are absolutely beautiful!
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thanks for the pics Pilgram. if i have any trouble on my EBO i'll refer to them as i do have the famous three pointer deal.
no neck dive on my EPI but the body is so thick and heavy i could prolly balance a Mack truck on the head and not have a problem as long as my knees and back hold out. maybe they used a heavier grade of leaded monkey dung glue on assembly! lol
ciao
1 edit for spelling
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My EB-0 was better balanced, and I did consider adding a bridge pickup to it...but I ended up buying the EB-3 on impulse. Whadda I know???
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Glad to hear that worked out nicely for you,
The CA (or other glue) to coat the inside of the stud-hole is a great trick. I learned about it from Dan Erlewines' "Guitar Player Repair Guide" (Great Book BTW) He also suggests it for tightening up loose neck screws on bolt on necks, come to think of it, the technique works for any screw that isn't completely stripped out.
Good looking bass!
Scott
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I didn't like the Jamersons on the EB-3. They looked like tugboat hawsers on that slender neck, and they clearly loaded up the neck more than needed - there was an instant and excessive neck bow.
I stopped by my local music store, picked up a set of light gauge (.45-.100) D'Addario Chrome flats and installed them. The neck is much happier, the sound is nice, and the setup seems pretty good. I'm ready to play it at practice this Weds. I'll check the neck tomorrow, but it's looking like a good match of adjustment and string tension.
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I didn't like the Jamersons on the EB-3. They looked like tugboat hawsers on that slender neck, and they clearly loaded up the neck more than needed - there was an instant and excessive neck bow.
But that's how Jamerson liked it! :P
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Takes off hat, places it over heart, intones just as "Randolph SCOTT" was sung in "Blazing Saddles"...
"Jam-er-SON!!!" :mrgreen:
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http://www.ladyofthecake.com/mel/saddles/sounds/idea.wav :mrgreen:
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Perzackly! ;D
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Yeah, I tried the Jamersons once and that cured me! TI all the way now days.
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how good are these Eb3's? i'm interested in getting one, i like the 34" and inlays. do they come in any other colors? i've only seen pics in red. hows it sound? i'm glad to hear they've got some weight to 'em. i like my basses on the heavier side.
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how good are these Eb3's? i'm interested in getting one, i like the 34" and inlays. do they come in any other colors? i've only seen pics in red. hows it sound? i'm glad to hear they've got some weight to 'em. i like my basses on the heavier side.
Mine is the transparent Cherry finish, which is my favorite. They also come in Ebony (gloss black) I weighed it last night and it's right at 9 pounds, which is heavy-ish for my taste, but still on the acceptable side. You wouldn't want the body any lighter, as it's a slight neck-diver, but a broad suede strap takes care of that OK. The finish and inlays on the neck are very attractive to my eye.
I like the sound of that EB-3, and I like it even better after installing D'Addario Chrome light gauge flats on it. The action is close to where I want it now. Both pickups have adjustable pole pieces, which is really handy. When it came in, all the screws in the neck pickup were slightly below the level of the metal cover, so I eased them out until they were just a bit past flush with the cover. The E string was a bit weak, so I brought that screw out a bit on both pickups, and screwed the other three screws on the neck pickup back in about one turn. Now the output of each string matches nicely.
If I had my total druthers I'd have this bass in short scale and it would balance better, but the slender neck plays very well in long scale. Anyone who wants to be creative could probably install a bridge pickup in an EB-0 and have a short scale version minus the fretboard inlays. The 3-position switch on the EB-3 is just a bridge/both/neck pickup selector, and that's not hard to install. I think I looked inside the cavity on the back of the EB-0 and figured there was enough room to add at least one switch. You could have separate Vol/Tone controls for both pickups without needing 4 pots if you put in a pair of stack-knob pots like the one on my fretless P/J clone:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P-J_bass_controls.jpg)
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I had an Epi EB-3 for a short while but had to sell it, the neck-dive was VERY bad and I don't care for a really wide strap which might have fixed the problem.
Long-scale neck + guitar-sized body = NECK DIVE
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There must be some variation in the body wood in those EB-3's. I've read reviews at Harmony Central which claimed they were the worst neck-divers in history, and others (like mine) which reported neck dive to be moderate. I think some were made in China, some in Korea - so there may have been different wood types used. That might account for differences in balance.