The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: Highlander on September 24, 2010, 01:10:53 PM
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Okay... lots to do... or maybe not...
First off, going fretless with this one... what to fill in the fret gaps with is a question... the surface of the neck is very Fender Jazz like in radius...
I have one EMG (which this Lady was originally loaded with) and may be tempted to steal one out of my Hohner... any recommendations for a second humbucker or a pair to get...?
Also, need a fairly shallow bridge - may just go very basic and thinking Jazz - any recommendations instead...? being fretless I may reposition the bridge for Jazz dimensions - 35"... looks like this has been an issue before as there are 4 positions and at least 2 types by the sets of screw-holes - the scale is presently 17" to the 12th...
Statistics... weight is around 7.5lbs/3.4kg... the neck is almost a clone of the RD in construction but is wider at the body - 24th fret is 2.5"/63mm and very accessible... the body is very nearly 2" thick
The fin... there's quite a nice grain pattern... now I'm thinking... dragonburst... blue and green...
Opinions...?
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20100924AD3.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20100924AD2.jpg)
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I would do it AKA Jack Skellington with it either painted white, then black rubbed in the grain or visa versa
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any links to a pic/s please John...?
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IMO that's a beautiful piece of wood that needs the equivalent of an elegant cocktail dress and a string of pearls as a finish...mind you I don't call basses 'she' but I don't have a problem problem with that. This one needs no tarting up. Again just my opinion.
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I can't help it Carlo, it's just the way I am with all technology... with instruments, it just all them curves... ;)
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http://www.fbass.com/images/FINISHES/FINISH-Black%20&%20White%20Ceruse-lg.jpg
;D
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I can't help it Carlo, it's just the way I am with all technology... with instruments, it just all them curves... ;)
Well this one definitely is curvy! Finding another one piece body like that these days would be very rare.
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(picking jaw off floor...)
THAT... IS... SO... 8)
Jackie just reminded me that I have to have this passed by my R&D-Q&A Dept (AKA the daughter...) ;D
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By fairly shallow bridge are you talking about the height above the body or the size of the baseplate?
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The angle of the neck to the body is very shallow... take the body "shape" away and I'd say that the nearest equivalent I could say is my Jazz set-up so a Fender style bridge would probably be spot on, but would that simplicity suit the bass...?
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Is it possible it had a badass1? 3 hole pattern suggests it to me. Can't explain those other two holes.
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I have a B1 and it would have been far too high off the body - definitely not that one...
Kev, the seller, put a reference to another bridge that was up for sale - a Schaller 3D4 which the he said was the type originally fitted...
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Bad Ass 1 is pretty tall. Never liked the way that Schaller looked. Good adjustability though.
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I have a B1 and it would have been far too high off the body - definitely not that one...
Kev, the seller, put a reference to another bridge that was up for sale - a Schaller 3D4 which the he said was the type originally fitted...
That's the Schaller roller bridge, very low profile. The Schaller 2000 (http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/allparts-guitar-amp-parts/bridges/bass-bridges/bass-bridges-4-string-singles/schaller-bass-bridge-steel-w-adjustable-spacing-2-p-1715.html) is just as low, even more adjustable and nicer looking. I have a 2000 in chrome that's almost new, if you're interested I'll sell it to you for way less than the new price. The baseplate is a standard Fender 5-hole pattern.
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http://www.fbass.com/images/FINISHES/FINISH-Black%20&%20White%20Ceruse-lg.jpg
;D
That would look great, if you use pink instead of white ofcourse! :D Or orange maybe. Black hardware all over, ofcourse.
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I have a 2000 in chrome that's almost new, if you're interested...
PM'd
Or orange maybe...
A tiger type fin would suit that as there is a distinct orange colour to the present fin...
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Decoupaged flocked wallpaper, perhaps?
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That's Jackie's department... ;D
(she just chirped up "I'm keeping out of this one...") ;)
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Deal done and a bridge will be winging over from Wi in the near future...
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Deal done and a bridge will be winging over from Wi in the near future...
MN, not WI. No cheese on this bridge. 8)
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MN, not WI. No cheese on this bridge. 8)
the 2000 will look like a winner.
must be good Minnesota boy, got real hairy legs make good pig farmer ya eh?
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MN, not WI. No cheese on this bridge. 8)
Oops... I shunted you east... welllll, it's only that far on the map... :mrgreen:
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Dave's bridge turned up and is stored ready for fitting...
Stripped the frets (previous owner did warn me about condition of surface) - still got to source a filling shim for the slots - any ideas for an ideal tough filling material for the surface of the neck and the edges of the fret slots...? I've lightly dressed the surface of the neck to clear the glue deposits from the frets... there was some kind of thin varnish like product on the edge of the frets and across the board - now gone...
The surface of the body is rather nice... wiped over with some cleaner to help show up the grain pattern...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/201010122.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/201010121.jpg)
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have you considered using strips of veneer to fill the slots?
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Veneer would be good (you could get maple or oak to show up nicely) or plastic binding cut to fit.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bindings,_trim/Plastic_binding/White_Plastic_Binding.html
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+1 on using binding, maple veneer has a tendency to pick up fretboard dust when you sand, oak is probably worse. Strips of modeling styrene sheet is another option...you could go commando and use black plastic ;D
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The guy who de-fretted my alumi-Kramer (a former Hamer employee) used a mixture of maple sawdust and wood glue to fill the slots.
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Carlos you head-case...! (mind you, I do have some spare black binding material I decided not to use on the Cookie... ;D)
I was planning to use veneer to fill but hadn't thought of using binding - that's an option...
Main issue is where the surface is damaged - look at the pic near the 20th- 24th also at the 8th... I had a local suggest using resin based heavy duty wood filler - similar to the stuff used on cars...?
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MN, not WI. No cheese on this bridge. 8)
.....Where all the women are strong, the men are good looking, and the children are all above average.
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I had a local suggest using resin based heavy duty wood filler - similar to the stuff used on cars...?
Bondo? We use it all the time as a wood filler for stuff that's going to get painted. Works great and it's easy to work with. But it's PINK! :gay:
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How about epoxy mixed with ebony dust?
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researching, even the "pink" stuff... ;D
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Pink will prevail, I 'm sure.
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I used Ebony dust mixed with wood filler/glue to repair some cracks in the board of a Yammy TRB years ago. Finished product was completely unnoticeable and the cracks never opened up again. YMMV.
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Body is now clean of all existing fin and hope to get some black dye on there as soon as a window of opportunity appears... the remaining colour will be clear flame red nitro...
The neck hasn't been touched yet (same old story...)
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I'm going to use off-cuts from the PC project to fill the neck slots...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101120Blackened1.jpg)
The body was dyed about 2 hours and looks very black...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101120Blackened3.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101120Blackened2.jpg)
I may use the two pups (from my Squier Jazz) merged together in the bridge slot on this one - there is the issue of the damage from the previous to previous owner to contend with - I'll do some calculations first...
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Looking good!
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I've run into a tricky issue here...
I noticed an odd pattern that appeared after applying the dye - I presume that this is something (oil?) in the wood itself - it is a water-based dye, so...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Jazz/20101121fretless7.jpg)
Not a direct pic as I forgot to take one but if you look (bottom-left) you can see where it took on some parts and just sanded straight off others...?
Any clue's Gents...?
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To me, from what little I can see, it appears that some of the old finish remained. The earlier pic of the top show some mottling that could be mistaken for some of the old finish as well.
Are you trying to dye black and sand back to reveal the grain? Sanding might not do the trick you might have to hit it with some paint stripper and use a small bronze brush with it to remove all of it from the grain. I would wash/brush it all down with some mineral spirits afterward and then resand. Just my .02 worth.... ;)
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Are you trying to dye black and sand back to reveal the grain?
Yep... the rest of your 2 cents sounds good too...
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Hi There
I also have an Andreas Demetriou active bass; mine being unmarked fretless from new. It is a fantastic instrument! Know anyone else with one?
Bass Gibbon
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Hi there and welcome BG, but there are the standard rules that apply...
(HINT - pst... post the pic please...)
What is stamped on the back of the head on yours...? I have found very little on the man (other than he's retired from luthiery and somewhere down on the South coast of UK... and I know of no others - serial obscure collector here, I also own a Peter Cook Thunderbird...
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Welcome Bass Gibbon! I'd also love to see your Demetriou, I really dig the body shape!
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I think lightyear is correct as well.
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That makes it 4c now Bill, so more prep work to do... if all else fails - TEQUILA...! :vader:
I'm off work now until 13th (using up remaining before 31st) so hoping to get a variety of stuff done... watching the weather...
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2 more cents...There's also the technique of filling the grain (valleys) with drywall compound. Squeegee it off and after it drys clean it up with a damp rag. Clear lacquer on top and done. You can even tint the compound.
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Any one else got any spare change for a cuppa...? ;)
(cheers Carlo)
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For more on pore filling with drywall compound, see http://bassoutpost.com/index.php?topic=1344.0 with Robbie O'Briens video.
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Thanks, Dave!
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I remember reading that one, but somewhat like your byline, Dave... ;)
(cheers for the reminder)
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I've also posted this in other-brands re replacement machine-heads...
I offered up one of the RD's machines as an example of what I'm looking for... The holes in the head are exactly 17mm - very marginally smaller than 11/16"... I could fit this style of machine but they would be offset...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101207AD5.jpg)
With the lug-points and no screw fixings I believe they are an old Gibson style (?) - is there a easily available replacement out there...?
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Anyway - did a lot of sanding today...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101207AD1.jpg)
... This is the end-on view to give an idea of what is possible prior to finishing off strip down...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101207AD2.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101207AD3.jpg)
... I had to do the strip down manually as the stripper did not seem to touch the remaing "fin"... so she's a bit lighter now... :o
Some of the stain is still in the wood but that should present no issue as I'm going to stain up again anyway...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101207AD7.jpg)
... plugged the holes with a 10mm maple dowl, then unplugged again as the grain was not lying right when I sanded down, then refitted them to lie correctly... :rolleyes:
I'm going for minimalism again - one master volume and a mini three-position selector...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101207AD8.jpg)
... I used the off-cuts of myrtle burl veneer (from the PC project) to fill the slots after opening them up with a saw blade...
Presently indoors to dry as too cold in the shed tonight...
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KENNY!! Don't you have a freakin' coaster!! You're gonna leave a ring on that bass with your mug! ;D :P
Looking good though! ;)
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It's getting better! Those old finishes are a bear to remove sometimes. I prefer old Gibsons with nitro, melts right off with lacquer remover in most cases.
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You also want to make sure any traces of titebond have been removed from the body surface. It resists stain and/or causes blotches. Looking Good!
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You also want to make sure any traces of titebond have been removed from the body surface. It resists stain and/or causes blotches. Looking Good!
Cheers for that, Carlo...
... Don't you have a freakin' coaster!! You're gonna leave a ring on that bass with your mug! ;D :P
That IS the coaster, Buzz... :toast:
... I prefer old Gibsons with nitro, melts right off with lacquer remover in most cases.
I had a pig of a job with the PC... the RD was as you said...
I was planning an evening in the shed (saw Harry Potter earlier) but too cold today (and the wine is in here... ;))
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Had a busy day doing some research at our National Archives but found a little time to do some work this evening...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101209AD1.jpg)
... basics on the neck done...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101209AD2.jpg)
... sanded down the plugs and cut a new hole for the three way... decided the "minature" may be required for other purposes...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101209AD4.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101209AD5.jpg)
... dyed again... lo-and-behold... STILL some of whatever it is in the wood...!!!
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101209AD6.jpg)
... a little round the neck too - this shows the grain quite well...
I can black round the neck area but stil have to do a bit more work to the back and the edge piece...
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Thats actually a really nice shape body I've decided. :)
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I offered up my spare Jazz neck to check out the original scale length and this lady used to have a slightly longer scale...
I really like the feel of this one... the shape gives me a sense of "depth" if that makes any sense - plays with your sense of perspective...
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I did some serious sanding today and all I was left with was a pile of dust... :o
Seriously though, the ash is just not coming up well for the original idea, the wood just looks "dirty" post sanding or the grain is not soaking the dye in deep enough, so dyed black again and gonna do a black fin... sand and seal next...
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"if it don't go, chrome it". american hot rodder lingo from the fifties.
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I did some serious sanding today and all I was left with was a pile of dust... :o
Seriously though, the ash is just not coming up well for the original idea, the wood just looks "dirty" post sanding or the grain is not soaking the dye in deep enough, so dyed black again and gonna do a black fin... sand and seal next...
Pffftt! Seal the body with shellac, grain fill it, sanding seal, then finish it off, ala The Fraulien, purple ;D It is a crazy ass 80's bass and so it deserves a wild color ;)
All joking aside, the grain may still be impacted by whatever sealer, filler, wood prep that was used in manufacture and it may be impossible to pull off a perfect stained type finish. Just my $ 0.02 worth.
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Properly done, an ash body that is NOT grain filled and painted black can be a very nice and subtle thing. Much of Charles Rennie Mackintosh's furniture was mostly unfilled black painted ash. Fly the flag, Kenny!
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Properly done, an ash body that is NOT grain filled and painted black can be a very nice and subtle thing. Much of Charles Rennie Mackintosh's furniture was mostly unfilled black painted ash. Fly the flag, Kenny!
You mean the tie dye flag! Kenny's got that one already flying! ;D
The open the open grain thing would work well with paint but I thought Kenny wanted the dyed black, sanded back, translucent color thing?
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You mean the tie dye flag! Kenny's got that one already flying! ;D
The open the open grain thing would work well with paint but I thought Kenny wanted the dyed black, sanded back, translucent color thing?
I thought since he's having a lot of problems he might want to take a cue from a fellow Scot's simplicity.
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I have a few books on Mr Mackintosh so appreciate the nod, Carlo... Not surprising that you'ld think of his furniture... most folks tend to think of him as patterns and not the rest of the stuff, even up to buildings... ;)
[manic grin] ... and Buzz, I'm planning on doing something truly garish on my Hohner Jack once the AD and RD are up to spec... something to remember the ol' Tequilabird by... [/manic grin]
Interesting thought re the chrome, Nofi...
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Glad you knew his work, Kenny, fantastic stuff! Around '85 a designer in L.A commissioned me to do an ash console table. He sent me to a showroom in the Pacific Design Center to look at a Mackintosh furniture range for the finish, ebonised ash. It was a real learning experience to get the paint to the proper sheen and smoothness without filling in the grain, one of those things where experience is key. I never got it quite right on that piece but finally did down the line.
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I've also posted this in other-brands re replacement machine-heads...
I offered up one of the RD's machines as an example of what I'm looking for... The holes in the head are exactly 17mm - very marginally smaller than 11/16"... I could fit this style of machine but they would be offset...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20101207AD5.jpg)
With the lug-points and no screw fixings I believe they are an old Gibson style (?) - is there a easily available replacement out there...?
Apologies if this has already been answered and I missed it but Schaller M4S tuners ought to fit directly in there - they have the two locating pins instead of screws to prevent rotation at the back. Techy drawing here: http://bass-machine-heads.com/hp135297/Artikel-Liste.htm?ITServ=CY339047d7X12e2ae39946X1cea#tz
My Gibson Victory Artist has Gibson branded M4S tuners and the holes looked like this:
(http://www.ifb.co.uk/~matthew/pics/victory/restore/20100705/02_serial.jpg)
Fitted, they look like this:
(http://www.ifb.co.uk/~matthew/pics/victory/restore/20110120/05_head_800.jpg)
An alternative could be the Grover Titan, but it uses 2 screws approximately where those holes are. Slightly destructive, but a lot less than Schaller BM like in the picture you posted.
Hope that helps
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Ahh, you never did come back and let me know if you were a sasenach or a teuchter... ;)
iirc it was Rob (Basvarken) that pointed me in the direction of the former you mentioned but thanks for dropping by - the one shown is from my RD (also presently lurking in my shed stripped to the wood and waiting for a good, clear weekend to start the respray) purely to show scale - I'm watching out for some...
You should post the pics on your Victory refin...
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Ahh, you never did come back and let me know if you were a sasenach or a teuchter... ;)
iirc it was Rob (Basvarken) that pointed me in the direction of the former you mentioned but thanks for dropping by - the one shown is from my RD (also presently lurking in my shed stripped to the wood and waiting for a good, clear weekend to start the respray) purely to show scale - I'm watching out for some...
You should post the pics on your Victory refin...
Teuchter, min. Aberdeenshire :)
I could put up a copy of the potted history of the refin here, I just wonder if I'm boring people because it's on several fora in various degrees of detail...
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Teuchter, min. Aberdeenshire :)
I could put up a copy of the potted history of the refin here, I just wonder if I'm boring people because it's on several fora in various degrees of detail...
Post it - we're easy to please here abouts.... ;D
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Mine are all left-coast (Lewis) - my dad barely considered himself Scottish, unless the English were involved... ;D
Post away...
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This is running up to my usual speed when it comes to refins (look at it this way, the RD took nearly two decades to get a new set of strings - this is a newbie...!)
First off, I didn't post a pic of the "dirty" body once the sanding was done, hence my going back to black...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20110212.jpg)
Anyway, something arrived from the good ol' USofA... (cheers Brad) - Ovation branded... perfect fit...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/201103181.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/201103182.jpg)
So, on with some advice that is required...
Carlo mentioned leaving the grain raw, but there is a distinct "ridging" to the wood, presumably with the "rings" being tougher... not going to be one of Carlo's "mirrors" - more like the "house of mirrors"
If I grain-fill, anything recommended for ash...?
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Bartley is my favorite. They make a neutral that would probably be good on ash. I use the dark for mahogany. Lots of folks at the Reranch forum use epoxy for filler too. Check it out there..............
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I bought paste filler a few months ago thinking I might need it. Haven't used it and haven't had a problem filling grain in mahogany, ash, poplar or basswood without it. 2 coats sealer with block sanding before and after, 2 coats lacquer on 2 successive days with sanding, wait 4-6 days and color sand and buff. Always use a block of some kind otherwise you'll be turning mountains into hills and valleys.
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I bought paste filler a few months ago thinking I might need it. Haven't used it and haven't had a problem filling grain in mahogany, ash, poplar or basswood without it. 2 coats sealer with block sanding before and after, 2 coats lacquer on 2 successive days with sanding, wait 4-6 days and color sand and buff. Always use a block of some kind otherwise you'll be turning mountains into hills and valleys.
What kind of lacquer are you using? Did you previously post your painting process?
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What kind of lacquer are you using? Did you previously post your painting process?
I use Mohawk products pretty much exclusively and follow the directions on the containers. Heavy bodied sanding sealer. Clear and white lacquers tinted as necessary with UTC to get my colors, Ultra penetrating dye stains, etc.
I'll do a thread on my painting process soon but it really starts with a compressor and spray gun or two. I have used rattlecan sealers (again from Mohawk) and topcoats on swamp ash with good results with no filler.
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Ta Gentlemen...
We are pretty limited with what we can get over here (no means of importing such products as they would inevitably have to go by air) but the products I got from a company called ToneTech worked on the PC (excluding my clumsiness, as I've already got several "Mojo" incidents... well, adds to the history of the instrument - every dent has a tale... ;))
[heathen] I'm using high end car fins for the RD, mind you... Again, I can't argue - they were utilised on the original "Tequila" and survived 26 years or so in pretty good fashion... [/heathen]
I have some natural and mahogany epoxy wood filler so I'll run with that first...
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I've used a lot of car paint rattlecans, no problem with any of them. Though the recent mini disaster with black was automotive paint. I think the problem was incompatibility between it and nitrocellulose sealer.
I suggest using automotive primer surfacer over the wood filler if you are going for a smooth solid color...though I must confess I've lost track of what it is exactly you're going for finishwise. Must be the nitro fumes. Glad you're back at it, that's a beautiful piece of ash.
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I've not declared that yet - multiple coating; experimantal...
We've got good mild weather here at the moment but I'm on call so not too much going to get done...
Anyway, what you doing up this early...? (I make it 06:49 EST) Saturday's for having a lie-in... Cabin fever, or shoot while the weather's in your favour... ;)
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I wake up now when I used to go to bed in my younger days, about 5 AM usually. Worked for myself most of my life so 'weekends' have very little meaning, ditto holidays.
I have my netbook in the shop attached to a big monitor and good sound system streaming movies, sports and Pandora. What more could a boy want?
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I use Mohawk products pretty much exclusively and follow the directions on the containers. Heavy bodied sanding sealer. Clear and white lacquers tinted as necessary with UTC to get my colors, Ultra penetrating dye stains, etc.
I'll do a thread on my painting process soon but it really starts with a compressor and spray gun or two. I have used rattlecan sealers (again from Mohawk) and topcoats on swamp ash with good results with no filler.
I thought I recalled you mentioning Mohawk. I am definitely planning a spray system in the future. Right now, it's not possible with the layout I have to work with. As it is, my shop is overcrowded with tools!!!
Please do post your process when you have a chance, it's worth noting (and copying) I'm sure!!! ;D
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I thought I recalled you mentioning Mohawk. I am definitely planning a spray system in the future. Right now, it's not possible with the layout I have to work with. As it is, my shop is overcrowded with tools!!!
Please do post your process when you have a chance, it's worth noting (and copying) I'm sure!!! ;D
Will do
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Doc is that plagiarism? :mrgreen:
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Doc is that plagiarism? :mrgreen:
Only if you don't give the originator credit!
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I have used rattle can Dupli-Color from auto parts stores (acrylic lacquer) over an auto primer base which is also acrylic lacquer.
For my major refin job I used an acrylic lacquer primer, then a layer of silver over the primer, then multiple layers of clear acrylic lacquer which came in a can from Stew-Mac, added tint, and shot with an auto detail gun. I used a pressure regulator and moisture trap in the output line from my air compressor to deliver clean air at a pressure the detail gun liked. I screwed together both the regulator and filter, then put snap=off quick disconnects on each end of the pair so I could remove them from the air line easily.
Sorry if this is elementary compared to what you guys use - just thought the Stew-Mac canned lacquer might be a handy thing to mention. I've tinted it red and also black with nice results, although shooting red requires at least three coats. Until I got the layers built up, it was pink....than finally red emerged.
Here's the resulting finish, after considerable wet sanding and polishing...the burst was shot with an air brush...first time I ever used one.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/apowell1/Electric%20Basses/P-J_bass_controls.jpg)
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Looks fine to me, Al... re pink... could have been worse, could have been purple... :o ;D
And Carlo...
... I have my netbook in the shop attached to a big monitor and good sound system streaming movies, sports and Pandora. What more could a boy want?
I live far too close to my neighbours (let alone Jackie and Roshina...) to get away with that... ;D
Doc is that plagiarism? :mrgreen:
Fingarism...?
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Well, we had a fine day here on Sunday so the shed was open for business... I First off I fixed the pond pump and proceeded the ritual annual pump-out and clean - whilst waiting for the pump to get to wellie level I did some grain filling, and then some sanding...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/201103271stgrainfill.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/201103271stgrainfill2.jpg)
It is gutting to see this so close to what I want but still not quite there... just not quite what I want and I know I'm not going to get there...
Tonight I re-dyed with the black...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20110329dye7.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20110329dye6.jpg)
The grain shows up quite well... still more filling to do - neck is going to be unlined ("Commando", as per Carlo) but I'm leaving the dot markers as they are - what to use for a top coat though...? leave it and use... what is the name of that oil...?
I've got a couple of pup options - the EMG SELECT in the neck slot - I've already got two of these in my JACK bass and this spare one lived in the bridge slot on the PC as a solo pup for 20 years or so... the bridge slot is a bit more complex - I could use the single Dimarzio Jazz pup Scott sent over as the cutting was part way there, but I'm tempted to use both the Jazz pups out of the Squier - cut away the fixing points on one side of each and merge them as a splitable humbucker...?
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20110329pups2.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/20110329pups1.jpg)
Any thoughts...?
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I like the top pup option.
As for the dying, I'm lost!
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(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/201103271stgrainfill.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/201103271stgrainfill2.jpg)
I know it's just the filler, but I like the zebra stripes! might be a little bit of a stretch for somebody with conservative tastes, though. ;)
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I like the stripes too!
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I like the zebra look. Reminds me of the Ceruse finish from F-Basses (no, not Fender).
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The problem I have had is the nearly but not quite of it - taking the wood down to show a hint of black stripes - with the filler in the grain - :-X smoothing out too much - still time to decide...
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Wow... has it really been that long since I touched this baby...? Shocking... truly shocking... shame on me and all that Jazz, er...
Well... today was a beautiful day... truly beautiful, blue-sky day, and we had the estate agent in this morning, and that's the ol' place up for sale, and I thought, wouldn't it be nice (if we were older? who were they kidding) if I put the projects to bed, once and for all... so...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%209_zps89lt5axu.jpg)
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2010_zps40gazquw.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2011_zpsul8mmazn.jpg)
There is something rather perverse in having a Coffin case for an AD bass... :mrgreen:
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Started off masking stuff and then thought, why...? I'm planning to coat the top of the neck with a resin, a-la-Jaco, and still need to make a sanding block for it...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2013_zpsvyopvjuo.jpg)
So I just got on with it...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2016_zpselthdc3t.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2017_zpseekuj1vn.jpg)
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Anyway... started off with a bit more black dye, followed by a flame red nitro...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2019_zpsezfjzv9w.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2022_zpsisbz9awa.jpg)
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2023_zpscll5scxb.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2024_zps57a4vmem.jpg)
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... and ended up with this, in need of a bit of polish post a partial top-coat of clear pre-cat nitro...
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2029_zpsgqqjb4in.jpg)
(http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2030_zps47yhboie.jpg) (http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu280/kjrstewart/Andreas%20Demtriou/2015%200516%2031_zpss1652sga.jpg)
Hmm... what else did I get up to today...? Is that an RD in the background, hanging in the shed...?
More AD to follow...
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That's fantastic, Ken. Hope you have a bigger shed and time to use it after the move!
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I'll bet it feels good to make some progress after all this time.
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Understatement, Dave... ;)
Hoping for a small barn, Carlo, but will settle for somewhere more logical...!
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I really like the look of this bass!!
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Turned out great Kenny!
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The nitro clear top-coat went on same day I was finishing of spraying the RD, which appears to have cured quite well... I just need to create a profiling block for the unusually flat "fret" board and coat with the resin (a-la-Jaco), then sort out the components... the Ovation tuners I acquired from Brad, the low-profile bridge from Dave, the EMG Select humbucker that used to live in the PC, a pair of Jazz pups from my Squier (replaced by a set from Scott's modern Jazz), merged as one in the bridge slot, pup switch, mini for phasing or DI, and a volume control for good measure... not sure about a TRC as yet...