The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: dadagoboi on January 13, 2011, 02:14:47 PM
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The first Honduras Mahogany JAEbird is going Down Under to Mark, it will be Fiesta Red The second is staying in the US and will be Ebony.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03163.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03166.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03168.jpg)
Bottoms up
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03191.jpg)
Right side up drilling the bridge alignment holes
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03192.jpg)
bandsaw to the lines
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03193.jpg)
The small inner template gets removed to make the shallow rout in the control cavity. All routs are made with one depth pass, up to 1 1/2 inches on the edges, 1 1/4 in control cavity
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03194.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03197.jpg)
Truly Twins, check out the matching end grain.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03198.jpg)
Mark's is on the bottom
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03203.jpg)
And a Fiesta Red/ white pg with 'vintage" tint neck for Dan Vo. He's going to be using it in a Who show for friends' 50th Wedding Anniversary in March.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03204.jpg)
Next is finishing up the body work and paint, then setting the bodies aside for two weeks to cure while pick guards, pup rings and toppers, bridge/tailpiece and necks are finished...I'm getting the process down, the neck pocket bridge alignment is dead on and working with Honduras is a joy.
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daum ! Beautiful!
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Thanks for the pics, Carlo. It's alive!
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Wowza! :mrgreen:
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I love the pic of the two with matching grains! Also, I'm partial to the natural one with the white pg. Looks great!
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Looking forward to getting the first Mahogany body In the US!
Great job Carlo!
jc
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ok you know what? yer killin' me here! gotta work some overtime...
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And here I thought this was going to be about a doubleneck 'bird!
Looking excellente!
A lefty Fenderbird will be mine................oh yes, it will be mine! :D
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ok you know what? yer killin' me here! gotta work some overtime...
Carlo's pricing is more than reasonable, the best deal going inmho. If you can send in a deposit and get in on the ground floor.
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(drooling is such an unsightly habit)
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I love the pic of the two with matching grains! Also, I'm partial to the natural one with the white pg. Looks great!
does look nice.... but i really want the next in white
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(drooling is such an unsightly habit)
What ? Am I drooling ? ;)
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Nope... me Bro... I've had to change the keyboard twice this week...
On second thoughts, Scott... maybe yes... ;D
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Carlo, I'm starting to think about case/bag options for this once it arrives here. Do you know if your JAEbird will fit in an Epi or Gibson Thunderbird case?
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Carlo, I'm starting to think about case/bag options for this once it arrives here. Do you know if your JAEbird will fit in an Epi or Gibson Thunderbird case?
The JAEbird is 1 inch longer than a Fender Jazz. It will fit in a generic Musician's Friend bass case, almost zero clearance though. It also fits in a standard RockBag and most other bags. The short answer is Yes, it will fit in any case any 'Bird will fit in.
To me that's the great thing about the first Fenderbird. Because it was based on a 60s bird it's more compact than any Gibson or Epi 'Bird or Japanese clone I know of. They're all based on the '76 RI which has one more fret clear of the body.
JAEbird in cheap MF case on top of bolt on Epi case with Orville inside.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020302.jpg)
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Wow, that's nice to know, thanks Carlo. Good chance then it will fit in one of the cases I have sitting around here. I didn't realise it was that much shorter than a standard Thunderbird - nice to know!
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Really nice work. I really like the single pickup version.
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Thanks, I really dig working with honduras. That's just a dummy p/g, it has two pups. But I am doing a single pup JAEbird II.
Spent the whole day prepping bodies. If the weather holds sealer tomorrow.
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Weather cooperated fully today, 750F with 40% humidity so I was able to get more done than I thought I would
Both bodies prepped
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03215.jpg)
Modified paintin' stand. These have already been sealed
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03220.jpg)
close up, last look at the mahogany, this one is for Kevin
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03222.jpg)
obligatory hair shot for any lurking TBers. First 2 double coats of probably six. Next up is Mark and Dan Vo's Fiesta Reds. Supposed to rain tomorrow.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03230.jpg)
The Hatchery. Blank in front is figured African Mahogany. I really don't know how it got there but I'll find a home for it..the blank will also fit an RNR so that's a possibility for my spare time.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03217.jpg)
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Go Carlo Go !
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So no grain filler? It's been a long day I mighta missed something.... :-[
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So no grain filler? It's been a long day I mighta missed something.... :-[
Real mahogany doesn't need it IMO. The grain, especially end grain, is much tighter than the modern substitutes. This is my '60 that I refinished circa 1973 with a preval sprayer. Took it down to raw wood and shot with clear lacquer, no stain. The small rectangle of cherry finish I left over the serial number has faded as the new finish has darkened and now they match.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/1960%20EBO/DSC03157.jpg)
I did buy a quart of grain filler but decided to go with what's worked for me in the past. I refinned a mahogany 18th century dining table and built a bedroom suite in the 80s. Didn't use filler on them either.
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No filler on this baby either.(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/100_1695.jpg)
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Just went out to the shop and gave the body a few swipes with some 400 no fil. Looks pretty good, I think all the grain is filled enough so that when I block it it will be fine.
That's a beautiful piece of wood on that 'bird, Scott! Who made the neck?
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That bass has had a number of necks over the years. The one on it now (pictured) is a Warmoth. Rosewood board, figured maple neck. On stage in the lights the grain on the neck distracts me lol. By and large I like the neck but it does have Warmoths rails in there, makes for a heavy and stiff feeling neck. One thing I really like is the extended fingerboard. It is a nice piece of work though, sure beats the neck I had on it, a Mid 70's Jazz with the classic S curve in the neck. I like All Parts better.
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The square end of the board is a good look for a 'bird. Warmoth does do nice work, just a too heavy for me with no real reason IMO. They should be using carbon rods for the prices they charge.
Allparts raised the prices on their necks today, I just checked their website. The US dollar has taken a pounding from the yen so I guess their prices have risen.
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Yeah I liked the square end also ! Bummer about the price hike but I guess that's to be expected.
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I guess we could coin a fin expression here...
"Does it pass the CARLO test...?" ;)
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Real mahogany doesn't need it IMO. The grain, especially end grain, is much tighter than the modern substitutes. This is my '60 that I refinished circa 1973 with a preval sprayer. Took it down to raw wood and shot with clear lacquer, no stain. The small rectangle of cherry finish I left over the serial number has faded as the new finish has darkened and now they match.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/1960%20EBO/DSC03157.jpg)
I did buy a quart of grain filler but decided to go with what's worked for me in the past. I refinned a mahogany 18th century dining table and built a bedroom suite in the 80s. Didn't use filler on them either.
What kind of sealer did you shoot? High enough solids and you're good to go. Whatever it was it can't be what Gibson been using lately as the grain on a lot of their stuff telegraphs clearly through the finish :sad:
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What kind of sealer did you shoot? High enough solids and you're good to go. Whatever it was it can't be what Gibson been using lately as the grain on a lot of their stuff telegraphs clearly through the finish :sad:
On my EBO, none. On the JAEbirds, Mohawk high solids sanding sealer cut 50% with lac thinner. about 8 oz per body.
Gotta get on my soapbox again. Genuine mahogany, Swietenia mahagoni, is to African 'mahogany' as white oak is to red. They are completely different in cell structure- don't try to make a barrel out of red oak, it will leak. Ditto real Stickley furniture, white oak only.
If you've worked with the various woods sold as mahogany the difference is readily apparent. Swietania works the same in both grain directions and is a joy to machine,with both hand tools and power. No nasty, 'Philippine Mahogany' (luan) splinters or porous endgrain. Prepped correctly, sealer and top coats are all you need.
As far as I know Gibson does NOT use Swietenia mahagoni, except possibly on it's CS stuff Hasn't for decades, someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm currently paying upwards of $11 b.f. for rough 8/4.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swietenia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philippine_mahogany
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"Philippine mahogany" isn't mahogany at all, it just sort of looks like it.
I don't know what Gibson uses. If it's not some variety of swietenia I think they might find themselves in serious trouble, as if they aren't in enough already over that wood raid.
A few years ago the Gallery Hardwoods guy said that for years, big leaf mahogany has been the only mahogany from Central and South America imported to the US, no matter what the hardwood dealer may call it.
Keep in mind that there is genuine mahogany that's plantation grown far from Central and South America. It doesn't necessarily have the same characteristics as we're used to.
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I guess my point was if you can describe Luan as mahogany you can call many species mahogany. The mahogany I'm buying today exhibits the same physical characteristics as the mahogany I bought 30 years ago. The grain on my '60 is a little tighter, it's 2 piece and looks like it was selected for a transparent finish. The stuff I'm using now I would call paint grade due to the color variation. I'd have to select it for stain finishing
From the FTC:
§ 250.3 Identity of woods. (emphasis mine)
* Mahogany.
1. The unqualified term mahogany should not be used to describe wood other than genuine solid mahogany (genus Swietenia of the Meliaceae family). The woods of genus Swietenia may be described by the term ‘‘mahogany’’ with or without a prefix designating the country or region of its origin, such as ‘‘Honduras mahogany’’, ‘‘Costa Rican mahogany’’, ‘‘Brazilian mahogany’’ or ‘‘Mexican mahogany’’.
2. The term ‘‘mahogany’’ may be used to describe solid wood of the genus Khaya of the Meliaceae family, but only when prefixed by the word ‘‘African’’ (e.g., ‘‘African mahogany desk’’).
3. In naming or designating the seven non-mahogany Philippine woods Tanguile, Red Lauan, White Lauan, Tiaong, Almon, Mayapis, and Bagtikan, the term ‘‘mahogany’’ may be used but only when prefixed by the word ‘‘Philippine’’ (e.g., ‘‘Philippine mahogany table’’), due to the long standing usage of that term. Examples of improper use of the term ‘‘mahogany’’ include reference to Red Lauan as ‘‘Lauan mahogany’’ or to White Lauan as ‘‘Blond Lauan mahogany’’. Such woods, however, may be described as ‘‘Red Lauan’’ or ‘‘Lauan’’ or ‘‘White Lauan’’, respectively. The term ‘‘Philippine mahogany’’ will be accepted as a name or designation of the seven woods named above. Such term shall not be applied to any other wood, whether or not grown on the Philippines.
4. The term ‘‘mahogany’’, with or without qualifications, should not be used to describe any other wood except as provided above. This applies also to any of the woods belonging to the Meliaceae family, other than genera Swietenia and Khaya.
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Supposedly the "best" of mahogany was Cuban Mahogany. I seem to remember reading that it was over harvested years before Fidel ever gained power. Here's hoping that some specimens survived and after a new government is in place it can be brought back into production.
http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/cuban-mahogany/
Down at the bottom of this article it points out that Honduran mahogany is Swietenia Macrophylla. Still of the same genus though.
My guess is that some of the earliest Gibsons were Cuban mahogany, later on they were Honduran - now, who knows. I do know that some builders have bought antique furniture just to get the old growth Cuban mahogany. I would think these were acoustic builders since the wood gleaned from an old piece migth only be 4/4 or 6/4 at best.
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Carlo, agreed, we're on the same page with the definitions. But I would be very surprised if Gibson is using anything other than a genuine mahogany. At the same time, I would be surprised if they're getting it from forests in Central or South America.
There's a guy selling "Cuban mahogany" which is grown on a plantation in Palau. It's swietenia mahagoni but IMHO it's a big stretch to use "Cuban mahogany" to describe plantation-grown trees from an archipelago in the middle of the Pacific. Even if the soil and climate were similar it wouldn't be the same.
See this 2007 thread from Jules' forum: http://forums.vintageguitars.org.uk/showthread.php?t=645 (Redbird = Barklessdog here).
IIRC shadowcastaz did buy some from the guy at Blue Moon.
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Thanks for the link, Dave. Ditto your info, Buzz. Gibson is missing a marketing opportunity if they are indeed using the genuine stuff as defined by the FTC ala the 'swamp ash' being promoted by others.
My earliest exposure to mahogany was English antiques, most likely it was Honduran (the country used to be British Honduras and was a Brit colony). Cuba was a Spanish colony, I don't have any experience with Spanish furniture and can't comment on the differences between Cuban and Honduras. I'm inclined to believe the stuff I'm getting is from the New World, I'll attempt to find out.
I completely agree, climate and soil affects the plant no matter what, be it coffee trees or mahogany. Got to think plantation trees are being harvested way before they would in the wild. Similar with teak, there are supposedly still old growth giants in Burma, the stuff we know from Scandinavian furniture is plantation grown.
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Keeping in mind plantation grown wood is typically a "monoculture" type scenario in that the every tree is planted at prescribed distance and is of same age and size. Usually nothing much else is allowed to grow around it. Where as the most sought after wood in the world is old growth timber - stuff that occured naturally in mixed forest and allowed to, somtimes, grow for centuries. Mahagony is no different than long leaf pine was to the southern US. Remember that the English crown initially saw the new world as one freaking huge lumber yard having almost denuded their county of timber.
Hi, my name is Lightyear and I'm a Wood Geek...
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i would think if a person is particular about getting old growth stock then it might behove one to check out recovered Belize wood.
i'm not saying it would be cheap but if one wanted the best available in todays world it might be worth considering for that "special" instrument.
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That's a thought. The stuff is only going to get rarer. At this point I'm just trying to find out who supplies my source, a 1 man sawmill/cabinet shop in the Ocala woods.
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Ocala huh? i have a friend that has a racing museum there. i got him a rare racing engine one time actually, a CSC stroked 430 Lincoln motor with Hilborn injection of historical significance.
if you know who i am talking about, go see him there and say Bill Andrews says hello and remind him of the 430 Lincoln.
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Ocala huh? i have a friend that has a racing museum there. i got him a rare racing engine one time actually, a CSC stroked 430 Lincoln motor with Hilborn injection of historical significance.
if you know who i am talking about, go see him there and say Bill Andrews says hello and remind him of the 430 Lincoln.
Sure I know who you're talking about, watched him race when I was a teen. If I ever get there I'll definitely pass it along!
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That's a thought. The stuff is only going to get rarer. At this point I'm just trying to find out who supplies my source, a 1 man sawmill/cabinet shop in the Ocala woods.
People are pulling astounding old growth timbers out of lakes and rivers. Buried in the mud for over a hundred years these are logs of America's long gone primal forests. I think some of the best recovered hardwood logs have come from deep norhtern lakes - the very low temps have frozen them in time. I believe that most of these logs wind up has high dollar veneer.
Carlo, if you really get into production I'm sure that you could probably buy lumber directly from the middle man - might have to buy 100 BF at at time though :o
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This is a really interesting and complex issue. Thanks for all of the comments guys. It just makes we question who I can trust! You really have to know your stuff when buiing mahogany!
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People are pulling astounding old growth timbers out of lakes and rivers. Buried in the mud for over a hundred years these are logs of America's long gone primal forests. I think some of the best recovered hardwood logs have come from deep norhtern lakes - the very low temps have frozen them in time. I believe that most of these logs wind up has high dollar veneer.
Carlo, if you really get into production I'm sure that you could probably buy lumber directly from the middle man - might have to buy 100 BF at at time though :o
IIRC they're still pulling cypress sinkers out of the Ouchita River in LA.
If things continue as they have been going I should be able to buy 100bf at a time with no problem. OTH the labor force might be.
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Plantation grown hardwoods may be more common than we think. A few years ago I was surprised to read that the Indian government controls all E. Indian Rosewood, and almost all of it is grown on tea plantations.
What's next? Plantation grown kopi luwak coffee with specially trained civet handlers?
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There's a guy west of Houston, in Columbus, that is building olive orchards on land that is traditionally cattle land. Say's that it works well - the tree are planted far enough apart that there's plenty of grass and the olive tress benefit from the cattles by product.
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There's a guy west of Houston, in Columbus, that is building olive orchards on land that is traditionally cattle land. Say's that it works well - the tree are planted far enough apart that there's plenty of grass and the olive tress benefit from the cattles by product.
He's growing them for the olives, but suppose he were growing them for the wood. Would it be fair to call the wood "mediterranean olive" because it's the same species?
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There's a guy west of Houston, in Columbus, that is building olive orchards on land that is traditionally cattle land. Say's that it works well - the tree are planted far enough apart that there's plenty of grass and the olive tress benefit from the cattles by product.
Sounds like a great idea to me - the value of olives would exceed that of general range, and it would also get rid of Mesquite and other invader species on that land. Falls in the category of added value ag crops...and the warm climate probably isn't that much different than the Mediterranean where olive trees live hundreds of years.
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Evidently folks are having good success with olives in Texas from west of Houston out I-10 to San Antonio and points south of this east/west line. The entire crop seems to be aimed at oil. I'm half thinking about olives as a retirement business - gets me the hell out of the city and would give me something to do and maybe some cash.
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If you're talking about growing them just for the oil, that's okay. Otherwise you have to hire highly skilled pimiento stuffers.
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If you're talking about growing them just for the oil, that's okay. Otherwise you have to hire highly skilled pimiento stuffers.
Naw, I would outsource the pimneto stuffing to China ;)
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I saw (and heard) cows grazing among olive trees in Sicily when I was sightseeing a Greek/Roman Amphitheatre on the coast. The cows had as good a view as anyone in Malibu.
Had fun painting this weekend, getting back into the swing of production, limited though it ise, 2 Fiesta, 1 black and one Seafoam. The seafoam is getting a bound and blocked Rosewood neck and the new "STANDARD" bridge. That's why there are so many holes in the body. Color should deepen when they're polished out.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/SEAFOAM.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020313.jpg)
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Buona, a latte e menta bass
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Love the surf green one.
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Seafoam with a B&B = Awesome!
Gonna do a matching headstock by any chance?
Can't wait to see this bird!
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Love that seafoam.
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nice work!
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+1 on the seafoam. You should do one in daphne blue as well ;)
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Love that seafoam.
Me too!
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+1 on the seafoam. You should do one in daphne blue as well ;)
I mixed up daphne blue which is white with cobalt blue and a dash of yellow for Stratobaster. Seafoam is the left over paint with more yellow UTC added. There hadn't been much interest in daphne but seafoam is getting a lot of attention. I'm limiting color choice on the Standard to Polaris White, Fiesta Red and Seafoam. The color choices on the Custom are up for discussion. but daphne would be a no extra charge option since I can easily turn the leftover into seafoam.
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The anticipation is killing me I can't wait to see mine being built !
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no black on the standard?
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what is the new bridge???
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what is the new bridge???
Pic by end of the day.
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In order to keep the base JAEbird at $495 it will now ship with a 1 piece "quick load" bridge. The Custom now has a beefier 2 piece. All in house Standard orders will ship with the original 2 piece. The two piece will be an option on the Standard which will only be available in Fiesta Red, Polaris White and Seafoam.
JAEbird Standard with optional bound and blocked neck and standard equipment one piece bridge
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03268.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03271.jpg)
Standard "quick load" bridge.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03261.jpg)
Shot under fluorescent light which emphasizes red spectrum
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03251.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/DSC03266.jpg)
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A veritable production line, Sir... long may it last... 8)
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no black on the standard?
No, I'm trying to streamline this puppy. It takes A LOT more time than any other color.
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A veritable production line, Sir... long may it last... 8)
I'm a crispy critter today.
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Careful there Carlo - might start feeling like work or a job or something ;)
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Careful there Carlo - might start feeling like work or a job or something ;)
Exactly! But it sure beats a lot of other jobs one might have! I love working at home and can't wait to be here full time. Screw the office!!! :o
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Careful there Carlo - might start feeling like work or a job or something ;)
labor of love I would think.
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labor of love I would think.
I definitely have a love/hate relationship with management ;)
Jim, I think this addresses most of your remarks about the JAEbird, this is 32" scale with full access to upper frets. I can also do a RH maple neck. The bridge/tailpiece and pups are relocated 1" closer to the neck pocket. I guess the neck could be moved 1 inch more into the body and everything else left as is. That would make a very compact bass.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020341.jpg)
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YES YES YES. think sally met harry in the deli :mrgreen:
Maple neck, full access, same bridge/pup position so move neck in but no need to change access.... painted headstock
triple white. Extra fret????
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YES YES YES. think sally met harry in the deli :mrgreen:
Maple neck, full access, same bridge/pup position so move neck in but no need to change access.... painted headstock
triple white. Extra fret????
I'd prefer to use a maple SX neck. No extra fret on it, nor on Warmoth's 'Warhead' either. You can always bend up to that E ala Andy Fraser on Mr. Big, it builds character. The Warmoth also uses mini tuners.
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This was supposed to be assembly day, I sanded and buffed both maho birds over the weekend. Yesterday was a nice day, 70, so I was working in the yard. Took the bodies outside to get a good look, left them there and went back to polishing rings and covers in the shop.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/Buffed.jpg)
When I came back out I found a major problem. Even though the paint had been curing for two weeks, the sun had caused major shrinkage.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/Buffed2.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/Cracked.jpg)
I sanded back the black body and stuck both out in the sun this morning to see if the problem is solved. Then more paint, another curing stretch. Then sand, buff, polish and assemble...did somebody say 'Groundhog Day?'
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/SunDried.jpg)
As far as I can figure the cool weather and high humidity was the cause. From now on I'll be more on top of that.
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Excrement happens... the rest you just have to put up with...
Hopefully a one-off... I presume that's on a joint-line - might be worth giving a chill and heat a couple of times to see if you have an issue with the timber on that one...?
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This was supposed to be assembly day, I sanded and buffed both maho birds over the weekend. Yesterday was a nice day, 70, so I was working in the yard. Took the bodies outside to get a good look, left them there and went back to polishing rings and covers in the shop.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/Buffed.jpg)
When I came back out I found a major problem. Even though the paint had been curing for two weeks, the sun had caused major shrinkage.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/Buffed2.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/Cracked.jpg)
I sanded back the black body and stuck both out in the sun this morning to see if the problem is solved. Then more paint, another curing stretch. Then sand, buff, polish and assemble...did somebody say 'Groundhog Day?'
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/SunDried.jpg)
As far as I can figure the cool weather and high humidity was the cause. From now on I'll be more on top of that.
DOH...more waiting! Well that's better than getting something imperfect.
jc
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I'm sensing something tangible now :-)
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Yeah, Gibson would have just sent them to Guitar Center... It sucks that it happened but I think it's cool that you care enough to send 'em out right.
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You ought to just claim it's just part of your "patented custom aging process" and double the price. :P :mrgreen:
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Nice recovery Carlo! I can't tell you how many basses I've had to redo. More than I'd like tothin about, but every one of them a great lesson! Hang in there! :thumbsup:
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Yeah, Gibson would have just sent them to Guitar Center... It sucks that it happened but I think it's cool that you care enough to send 'em out right.
...but I don't have the ability to build a Firewood IV, a 20/20 would be pretty easy, though.
You ought to just claim it's just part of your "patented custom aging process" and double the price. :P :mrgreen:
I've done a lot of relic work and it sure is easier! Considered it, especially with Mark since he has a Nash ;D
Seriously, I'm trying to build these as if I'm the buyer not the seller. I really appreciate that Mark and Jeremy are being so understanding.
Nice recovery Carlo! I can't tell you how many basses I've had to redo. More than I'd like tothin about, but every one of them a great lesson! Hang in there! :thumbsup:
Thanks, Bill. Very little is learned from success!
Yesterday I did all the routing on the next 5 'birds including shaping the body and control cavity. I'm getting an idea of how much time it should take in a limited production operation and what my actual cost is. A big time saver is improving the jigs making for less setup on the pin router. After 8 bodies worth of routing a $60 solid carbide bit is shot.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020446.jpg)
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Failure is a tough teacher, but the lessons stick with you!
Wow, only 8 bodies? I think I'd learn how to sharpen the bit! Something else for me to keep in mind!
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Failure is a tough teacher, but the lessons stick with you!
Wow, only 8 bodies? I think I'd learn how to sharpen the bit! Something else for me to keep in mind!
Initially I had the same reaction but then realized it's less than $8 a body if they can't be resharpened properly. These are upcut double spiral solid carbide bits. Of course there are resharpening services, finding the right one is key. Standard shop procedure is 3 sets of everything that cuts, one on the machine, one in the shop ready to go and one at the sharpener. Costs money to have workers unable to work because of dull tools. Gets expensive with 14" saw blades though.
As I say I'm trying to dial in what these 'birds actually cost! I can see having to replace the router in the pin router down the line. It's a discontinued Bosch. The replacement is a Porter Cable 220volt that requires a bigger cradle or machining the original, plus a magnetic starter.
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Initially I had the same reaction but then realized it's less than $8 a body if they can't be resharpened properly. These are upcut double spiral solid carbide bits. Of course there are resharpening services, finding the right one is key. Standard shop procedure is 3 sets of everything that cuts, one on the machine, one in the shop ready to go and one at the sharpener. Costs money to have workers unable to work because of dull tools. Gets expensive with 14" saw blades though.
As I say I'm trying to dial in what these 'birds actually cost! I can see having to replace the router in the pin router down the line. It's a discontinued Bosch. The replacement is a Porter Cable 220volt that requires a bigger cradle or machining the original, plus a magnetic starter.
Oh yeah, overhead rears its ugly head!!! I was thinking the bits were straight. The spirals have to be a pain to sharpen without special equipment. I have a bunch of stright ones to wear out before I worry about it too much!
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I've come to believe they are worth the cost, it takes less than 5 minutes to do the 5/8" deep neck pocket and pup routes. The perimeter shaping takes 3 minutes to band saw and 2 to rout, all in one pass. The control cavity is 1 1/4" deep so it gets hogged out with a forstner bit. The biggest bottleneck breaker was coming up with jigging for doing that accurately. Next is figuring out quicker way to do gut cuts.
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I've come to believe they are worth the cost, it takes less than 5 minutes to do the 5/8" deep neck pocket and pup routes. The perimeter shaping takes 3 minutes to band saw and 2 to rout, all in one pass. The control cavity is 1 1/4" deep so it gets hogged out with a forstner bit. The biggest bottleneck breaker was coming up with jigging for doing that accurately. Next is figuring out quicker way to do gut cuts.
I hear ya! I'm scheming and planning for my future one-man assemble line! Thanks for sharing your experiences.
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... Next is figuring out quicker way to do gut cuts...
Was it you that made that comment about how they did that on the Fender back in the day vid that Dave posted a while back..?
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Was it you that made that comment about how they did that on the Fender back in the day vid that Dave posted a while back..?
Yes! Today after posting that I went to work with my 4x36 Porter Cable belt sander with 80 grit. With an arc traced on the bodies I did all 5 freehand in an hour...Fender used a horizontal stroke sander contraption with no platen and a lot of dust collection. I halfassed it with my shop vac. Another problem sort of solved.
Also got some work done on JAEbird II prototype this evening, the weather is perfect, mid 70s. Working in skivvies with no bug attacks yet, just squirrels screwing in the yard and birds going nuts. The idiot bird who tried to build a nest in my rollup door is back looking for his mate...where's a cat when you need one? Speaking of, this is last week in said yard. Guess what's going on.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020358.jpg)
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feeding time?
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No, Rites of Spring
...Sniper I will get to measuring that neck soon, just have to get some of this work out of the way.
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Yes! Today after posting that I went to work with my 4x36 Porter Cable belt sander with 80 grit. With an arc traced on the bodies I did all 5 freehand in an hour...Fender used a horizontal stroke sander contraption with no platen and a lot of dust collection. I halfassed it with my shop vac. Another problem sort of solved.
Also got some work done on JAEbird II prototype this evening, the weather is perfect, mid 70s. Working in skivvies with no bug attacks yet, just squirrels screwing in the yard and birds going nuts. The idiot bird who tried to build a nest in my rollup door is back looking for his mate...where's a cat when you need one? Speaking of, this is last week in said yard. Guess what's going on.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020358.jpg)
I always wondered what was under the skin of those Firebirds and now I know CATS!
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...Sniper I will get to measuring that neck soon, just have to get some of this work out of the way.
nice, thanks Carlo i know you are swamped with your JAE Birds right now, so no big hurry. i talked with a luthier today in Calif and picked his brain a bit. i am on the right track with my '59 build but it is going to take awhile as he gave me a best guess estimate and he has a two year backup right now.
took me forever to find that neck blank! ... and the sad part is i have another lost neck and a box of goodies in there somewhere!
if i am going to get this next build together i am going to have to find someone to apply a finish as he is not interested in a simple finish and his are very time consuming, many layered and cost a lot. all hopefully in the next two years. i might even build my quasi Fender/Sunn amp first. we shall see.
back on track! how is the twins finish coming?
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..... Next is figuring out quicker way to do gut cuts.
Search for the G&L factory tour online. I seem to recall that the belly cuts are made on a bandsaw. The have a jig that props the bodies at an angle, top side down, and the belly cut is made in one pass and cleaned up a sander.
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Search for the G&L factory tour online. I seem to recall that the belly cuts are made on a bandsaw. The have a jig that props the bodies at an angle, top side down, and the belly cut is made in one pass and cleaned up a sander.
Thanks for the tip, Buzz. I had thought about using the bandsaw but mine is only a 14" without riser blocks, not enough clearance without removing the table.
The belt sander works well and gives me a bit of an upper body workout which I definitely need. Switching to 60 grit belts will make the job even easier. I have a 16" diameter by 48" wide drum sander I may use down the line but it needs a motor. The time it takes me to do them by hand vs the expense of a motor means I'll be sticking with the current method for a while.
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Thanks for the tip, Buzz. I had thought about using the bandsaw but mine is only a 14" without riser blocks, not enough clearance without removing the table.
That would be justification for me to buy the riser block for my 14" bandsaw ;)
As for a motor for your sander do you ever see any AC guys with truck full of trashed AC equipment? If you can find one these guys routinely trash air handlers along with all of the other crap when they install a new unit. If you ask them they can probably fix you with a 1 hp motor for $5! Usually they are 120/240 and about 1200 rpm - the right pulley(s) and you're in sander heaven
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I think it's gonna take more than a 1 hp motor to power this beast. Check out the pulley and v belts...but I do have my dead AC unit sitting in the back yard, might be something salvageable from it. The drum is a 14 x 36. Might try to use the PTO from my Shopsmith.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Chrome%20Soapbar/CHROMED/P1020116.jpg)
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betcha a motor out of an evaporative air conditioner would work
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Oh sure, just go ahead and taunt me with that lefty PJ body! :D
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I'm sure I've seen something like that in a movie where they fed someone through it... :o
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Oh sure, just go ahead and taunt me with that lefty PJ body! :D
Make me an offer, it's a solid wood Squier.
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I betcha that a 1 or 1 1/2 HP motor will be plenty enough to run that sander - if the bearings are good. You really wont be putting any huge load on it. Having that beast would really speed up your production.
Sniper, great minds think alike ;D I would guess that most motors in swamp coolers are probably 1 to 1/2 HP.
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I may get around to it down the line but I can do 5 bodies in less than an hour. Big bottleneck now is bridge placement repeatability. That should take less than 5 minutes but it's not. Today' project is to find a solution.
No swamp coolers in Florida, humidity is around 80% in the summer.
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I've come to believe they are worth the cost, it takes less than 5 minutes to do the 5/8" deep neck pocket and pup routes. The perimeter shaping takes 3 minutes to band saw and 2 to rout, all in one pass. The control cavity is 1 1/4" deep so it gets hogged out with a forstner bit. The biggest bottleneck breaker was coming up with jigging for doing that accurately. Next is figuring out quicker way to do gut cuts.
Yeah the gut cuts are a pita. I trace out the cresant pattern on the back and mark the edge of the body with the arc, then go at it with my Swiss chisels. The one I start with is a large C shape, I work my way from the back to the outer edge with cuts radiating in a arch. Then I go to a chisel with a flatter profile to smooth things up, then I break out the 80 grit, 100, 150, 220. This method works well and is relatively quick though more hand work than you may want to get into. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/gutcut002.jpg)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v102/godofthunder59/gutcut001.jpg)
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Nice tools Scott! A flat bottom spoke shave would replace the coarser grade of sandpaper and cut the time in half. You are actually in old tool heaven being in upstate NY. You could pick up an old Stanley #51 or the better adjustable #151 for way less than $15.00
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=PLANES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=12-151&SDesc=Spokeshave+-+Flat
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I may get around to it down the line but I can do 5 bodies in less than an hour. Big bottleneck now is bridge placement repeatability. That should take less than 5 minutes but it's not. Today' project is to find a solution.
No swamp coolers in Florida, humidity is around 80% in the summer.
What about a jig? A basic overaly of 1/4" ply or MDF that has an exact block of wood, or UHMP, that exactly fits into the neck pocket. The other challenge would be make sure that you were exactly centered on the end of the body. I would then use a block of 1/4" aluminum attached to the jig over the bridge area with precisely drilled holes for the bridge and then use a self centering, Vix bit, to drill your holes.
Depending on your work flow, and precise repeatability, you may be able to place a second block onto the bottom of the jig that would sit tightly in one of your pickup routes. This would give you two points of anchorage amd eliminate movement in both X and Y directions and with a Vix bit you could drill four holes in 30 seconds. Just saying.....
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=494&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=vix+bits
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I use a drawknife, or did until just breaking out the PorterCable after seeing how Fender did the originals. Just takes doing a few in a row to get the technique down. I'll post a pic of the results when I get out of the shop, and the drawknife too.
Re the pocket/bridge jig, working on that at the moment...what I find better than a vix is making the drill press into a "pin" drill press and using a template with that. Again will get some pix when I sort things out.
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I didn't catch that in the Fender video ??? Porter Cable what? Belt sander, Disc sander? Once I have mine roughed in I use My Ryobi 18v sander
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I didn't catch that in the Fender video ??? Porter Cable what? Belt sander, Disc sander? One I have mine roughed in I use My Ryobi 18v sander
That's some beautiful mahogany and work, Scott!
Fender used a modified stroke sander. My Porter Cable is a 4"x36" with 80 grit belt sander, pulls 10.6 amps. We used to attach extension cords and race them at the speaker cabinet shop I worked at in the early 80s. This one was less than $100 on Ebay, new maybe $250. turned on its side and clamped to the workbench it works pretty well as an edge sander. I also have a Ryobi 3x24 but it doesn't have the grunt.
The draw knife has a very slight radius, works pretty well, I've used it on the previous JAEbirds using the same drawn radiuses on the back and side you did. With the belt sander I hold my elbows in and pivot my torso. Come on down, I'll give you a lesson. ;D
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020452.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020460.jpg)
This is the jig I came up with for locating bridges, those are 1/8" brass pins sharpened in 1/8" holes . Give them a tap and the holes are located enough for wood screws.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020458.jpg)
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Geeze I have some draw knives hanging in the carriage house, never thought to use them ! Come on down? I just might take you up on that !
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That's what I was thinking about as well Carlo. I still think that you save steps, and time, and eliminiate variability by using a centering bit and drilling the holes while the jig is on the body. ;D
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I agree with you, Buzz. The template shown is strictly for drilling the bridge holes. The template for cutting the pups/neck pocket mounts on the back and pin routed before the perimeter is shaped. Once I'm sure these bridge holes are going to work consistently they'll be transferred to that jig and will be done with the pups/neck pocket.
There's a slight innaccuracy with the pin router, 1 mm at the neck end off the centerline becomes 3 at the bridge but I think I may have it sorted out.
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I half expect you to come up with a used CNC setup here pretty fast - don't put too much energy into the jigs ;D
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Hey Carlo, now that I have my pin router set up the with the router under the table, which type of spiral bit would you recommend for it? Upcut or downcut version?
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I have used both. The down cut will give you a cleaner cut edge but will clog much faster as it drives the trimmings down into the channel it's cutting. The upcut bit won't clog as quickly but can cause some tearout.
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I have used both. The down cut will give you a cleaner cut edge but will clog much faster as it drives the trimmings down into the channel it's cutting. The upcut bit won't clog as quickly but can cause some tearout.
Figures! There's no perfect solution. If I use a downcut and the template is on top, wouldn't the trimmings just fall down anyway?
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Figures! There's no perfect solution. If I use a downcut and the template is on top, wouldn't the trimmings just fall down anyway?
Onsrud recommends upcut, if you think about it on an upside down router up is down which is what you want. The Onsrud has a great chip removal system so I haven't had a problem with tearout. There's a place close to me that resharpens solid carbide bits for $18.
This is the best price I've found on bits
http://www.cncroutercentral.com/CNC-Router-Onsrud-bits-52-200.asp
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Onsrud recommends upcut, if you think about it on an upside down router up is down which is what you want. The Onsrud has a great chip removal system so I haven't had a problem with tearout. There's a place close to me that resharpens solid carbide bits for $18.
This is the best price I've found on bits
http://www.cncroutercentral.com/CNC-Router-Onsrud-bits-52-200.asp
Thanks, I placed an order this morning. Those are good prices. Also ordered a bigger router with 1/2" collet for the bigger bits.
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Figures! There's no perfect solution. If I use a downcut and the template is on top, wouldn't the trimmings just fall down anyway?
The downcut will only clog the cut if you're cutting in captive spaces - like mortises and dados or neck pockets and pickup cavities ;) Edges trimmings and shallow cuts wouldn't be a problem.
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The downcut will only clog the cut if you're cutting in captive spaces - like mortises and dados or neck pockets and pickup cavities ;) Edges trimmings and shallow cuts wouldn't be a problem.
Makes sense! That's even better since most cavities will be mostly pickups and controls. Thanks!
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Oh yeah, kind of my opinion here but, I like 1/2 inch bits run at slower speeds. I get less tear out and less heating/burning. The bits cost more but I think last longer - the return is worth it.
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Oh yeah, kind of my opinion here but, I like 1/2 inch bits run at slower speeds. I get less tear out and less heating/burning. The bits cost more but I think last longer - the return is worth it.
Yeah, I ordered a 1/2" bit and cheapo router to try it out. We'll see.
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The downcut will only clog the cut if you're cutting in captive spaces - like mortises and dados or neck pockets and pickup cavities ;) Edges trimmings and shallow cuts wouldn't be a problem.
True. The Onsrud has a plenum surrounding the bit under the table that feeds to a 3"port at the back of the machine that attaches to my shop vac. I switches on with the router. Not a trace of chips when I cut neck pockets, pickup and control cavities. Different story when routing the body shape which I trim close to the line before routing. All my cuts are done in one pass and except for the control cavity cover rout, the minimum is 5/8".
I figure with shallow repetitive cuts the tip of the bit does all the work. Using one pass uses more of the working length of the bit. The pedal on the Onsrud allows you to plunge the router to ease into the cut. Then it's move as quickly and as steadily as possible to keep from burning the bit and ruining its edge.
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This Bird Has Flown...to OZ. The first mahogany body to ship. With rosewood board, D'Addario Chromes and Duncan pups it sounds great. Mark has a lot of experience with Tbirds and Chromes I'm hoping he'll give a full report and some samples.
My new best friends, Meguier's Ultimate Compound and a 7" variable speed buffer with foam backed terrycloth pad used on a lower speed. The Meguier's does a great job on a lot of materials, allows me to go directly from 1500 to it and done.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020511.jpg)
Plastic still on guard. Dummy covers used during set up. WEIGHT 8.4 lbs
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020491.jpg)
My Sony DSLR took a dump, back to using a $100 Pentax until I bite the bullet and get it fixed
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020498.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020499.jpg)
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Beautiful!
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I've got wood !
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Nice!!! No orange peel as the focused reflection of the Meguiers bottle demonstrates. Good work Carlo!
Almost makes me wish I were a T-Bird player.
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Quality... 8)
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Nice Work! That is stunning.
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Looks great, Carlo.
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I've got wood !
+1
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Turned out great!
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That looks really nice!
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Awsome!
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Was ist wunderbar!
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Excellent job.
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Purdy!...nice job
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Thanks, Guys! I think it's getting easier as I improve my jigs and technique. Painting black today if the weather holds.
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Thanks, Guys! I think it's getting easier as I improve my jigs and technique. Painting black today if the weather holds.
:) mines black!
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do you leave the headstocks blank for someone's decal. if so is there a spot on the bass that identifies you as the builder. nice job btw.
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do you leave the headstocks blank for someone's decal. if so is there a spot on the bass that identifies you as the builder. nice job btw.
Thanks, I put the buyer's name or avatar, bass ser.# and my signature in the neck pocket. If the buyer wants it the period correct decal goes on after I take the 'bird's picture so as not to offend anyone. I haven't had time to do a logo decal of my own but don't really care that much. Ditto a headstock, difficut to come up with an original that is also a good design.
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Thanks, I put the buyer's name or avatar, bass ser.# and my signature in the neck pocket. If the buyer wants it the period correct decal goes on after I take the 'bird's picture so as not to offend anyone. I haven't had time to do a logo decal of my own but don't really care that much. Ditto a headstock, difficut to come up with an original that is also a good design.
Why not go the "Cher" route! ;D "CARLO" ;) :P Simple and I think it works well
Hell, with a name like that you could be a high end fashion designer or something ;D
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Why not go the "Cher" route! ;D "CARLO" ;) :P Simple and I think it works well
Hell, with a name like that you could be high end fashion designer or something ;D
My first name is Cataldo, even more unique than Carlo, my middle name, so I'm going that way. Just not a priority at this time. I'm going to finish the basses that are ordered and reevaluate after that. I may be totally burned out by then.
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Carlo is a cool name, IMHO. Be careful on the burned out thing. I have concerns about that too.
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another beautiful JAEbird...
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...............I may be totally burned out by then.
Um, try not to flame out before you get the Tbird pickups to market ;) ;D Just saying ;D
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Um, try not to flame out before you get the Tbird pickups to market ;) ;D Just saying ;D
The TBird pup project is mostly Steve's...he just ordered 200 magnets and bobbins so that is on track.
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Excellent!
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Looking forward to those pickups!
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Good news!
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Hey which model buffer are you using? Beautiful finish there!
Thanks.
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Hey which model buffer are you using? Beautiful finish there!
Thanks.
Thanks, Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-variable-speed-polisher-sander-92623.html
They also sell extra terry cloth bonnets and other accessories.
I do the sides by hand and never go above 3 on the speed.
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thanks! Will check it out. I was looking t much more expensive ones that did not spin nearly that slowly.
owe you a drink :mrgreen:
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Great!...In the 80s I had a single speed grinder that I made a VS with a router speed control. They cost about $20 then. I bought it at Harbor Freight when they were a mail order house with a few stores in California.
http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html
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Jeremy's bass buffed along with the previous attempt being stripped. As you can see Spring has arrived.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020557.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020561.jpg)
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Oh baby!
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Damn!Humbled again. Nice stuff!
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(Kenny is rendered speechless but you can see it hasn't broken his fingers...) 8) 8) 8)
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Veeery noyce chief, very noyce..!
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Keyboard died on my desktop, I can post pix but have to add type from my netbook.
This JAEbird is sounding very close to right with Rock Masters on it. Shipping Friday. That reflection is my trailer,about 30 feet away and a tree in my front yard, about 100 feet off
While I was shooting black I deBaCHed my Honeyburst NR headstock and made a more correct trussrod cover for it. Gotta paint those screws black. Will do the same to the white one.
I hope to ship another JAEbird next Friday, have to remix Seafoam for more pop and shoot a body tomorrow. Going for that Billy Shehan Yamaha green.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020568.jpg)
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"That reflection is my trailer,about 30 feet away and a tree in my front yard, about 100 feet off " :o :o :o
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Carlo, I'm going to have you arrested for torture....
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Lovely finish! Like glass!
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How are you getting your finishes to cure so quickly?
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How are you getting your finishes to cure so quickly?
I'm following the recommendations of the paint manufacturer. Mohawk specs 36 hours before buffing, I waited 4 days.
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thatsa nice!
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Mohawk wonderful stuff, shot my fair share over the years. :)
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Keyboard died on my desktop, I can post pix but have to add type from my netbook.
This JAEbird is sounding very close to right with Rock Masters on it. Shipping Friday. That reflection is my trailer,about 30 feet away and a tree in my front yard, about 100 feet off
While I was shooting black I deBaCHed my Honeyburst NR headstock and made a more correct trussrod cover for it. Gotta paint those screws black. Will do the same to the white one.
I hope to ship another JAEbird next Friday, have to remix Seafoam for more pop and shoot a body tomorrow. Going for that Billy Shehan Yamaha green.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020568.jpg)
Come to Daddy!
OK..that was creepy....anyway...can't wait! It is worth the wait if it looks as good (or better) in person as it does in the pics.
jc
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'splain to me about Mohawk ,please! :mrgreen:
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^Yes, inquiring minds want to know!^
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I've been using their stuff since 1986 when they were in upstate NY, thus the name. Now owned by RPM and located in NC.
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp
When I first started buying Mohawk it was only sold direct to industry, now you can find local distributors and paint stores that sell some of their products. Their tone color rattlecans are very good for shading, I've used them for vintage tint on necks. "ultra classic light natural oak" works well. They sell sanding sealer and clear in rattlecans also.
I buy from Pondcove in NH, they run sales with free shipping with over a $100 order every six months or so
http://www.pondcovepaint.com/
I mix my colors from red, blue and yellow base color concentrate in either clear or white lacquer.
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DAMN! He actually read the directions!!!! :-\
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DAMN! He actually read the directions!!!! :-\
I like to know the rules before I break them, more fun that way.
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...
Hell, with a name like that you could be a high end fashion designer or something ;D
With a name like that one could be "Chuck Norris"
born Carlo Ray Norris
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ChuckBird...?
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My JAEbird is in the country, currently with Customs. That means it should be delivered on Monday :-)
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Finally cleared Customs this morning, I guess that means it will be delivered tomorrow :-)
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Nice to know the Aussie bureaucracy is as good as the USA's.
I thought it would be fitting to finish up a Seafoam bass on St. Patrick's Day for an Italian guy from Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, NY. My hometown.
#006 leaving tomorrow.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020651.jpg)
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:Im speachless! I love that color .I built a fender pbass ho a couple years back . I sprayed it with amber clear & it got this funky cool green . A bud & his brother have a band called 'snakes of ireland' , they needed a bass so I gave it to him. Its a real player. kinda miss it but his name is Murphy. Nuff said.
I got my harbor freight buffer today . They sent me 2. I spoke with a customer service rep from India so Im all set .Get faced tonight . Its a holiday. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
I love the white pearl.
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Wow Carlo!
They keep getting hotter and hotter
Nice work
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Finally cleared Customs this morning, I guess that means it will be delivered tomorrow :-)
Just got off the phone with the postal service. They say it's at their mail sorting centre, which means it won't get delivered today (it's Friday here). So, Monday it is.
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That is soooo awesome! Someone in Brooklyn is a very lucky guy!
Aussie Mark, that sucks sorry to hear about the delay. Hang in there man!
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Carlo, you are my hero! No pressure...... ;D
PS also got my buffer. So far so good, waiting on the Meghiars.
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Thanks for the compliments, hope the buffers work out for you. The supplied terry bonnet is not the best, the replacements are elastic instead of tie ons. I'm getting about 2 basses per replacement bonnet. Meguiars is available at Advance Auto Parts among other places.
Took another shot before packing up this bird, early morning light with flash. Finally was able to source correct size screws for pup rings. #2 x 1/2" stainless sheet metal screws are as close as I can come to the original wood screws Gibson used. From microfasteners.com in NJ. Nice guys!
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020669.jpg)
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I don't like green.........................but I like that! Beautiful
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I love it! Even though I'm also not a big fan of green. It has to be the "right" green! :rolleyes:
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I don't like green.........................but I like that! Beautiful
I love it! Even though I'm also not a big fan of green. It has to be the "right" green! :rolleyes:
I remember being in the Tom Lee (maybe?) Music store in Kowloon, Hong Kong around 2005 and seeing a signed green Billy Sheehan signature Yamaha on the wall there. Made me appreciate green basses for the first time. I grew up in the 50s and I love all the 50s colors.
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That is soooo awesome! Someone in Brooklyn is a very lucky guy!
That would be me. :)
First post here. Just wanted to pop in and lay claim to my riches. I'm stoked. I think the bass is wicked beautiful, carlo was a pleasure to deal with, and I can't wait till thursday.
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Mine finally cleared Customs and arrived safely in one piece! Actually, several pieces :-)
The build and finish quality looks top notch, and Carlo's packing job was stellar enough to be able to make this the smallest package I've ever seen that fits a body and a neck. The box took an obvious external hit, but no damage at all to anything inside. Looking forward to doing some assembly tonight!
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a57/mdeayton/Bass%20gear/IMG00210-20110321-1143.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a57/mdeayton/Bass%20gear/IMG00211-20110321-1144.jpg)
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Assembly and setup complete!
Thanks Carlo, this is a quality instrument. I've only heard the pickups so far via headphones, so will open it up at volume on Thursday night at rehearsal :-)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a57/mdeayton/Bass%20gear/IMG00212-20110321-2216.jpg)
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You're very welcome, Mark. Thanks for the opportunity. Looks good on your wall!
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Assembly and setup complete!
Thanks Carlo, this is a quality instrument. I've only heard the pickups so far via headphones, so will open it up at volume on Thursday night at rehearsal :-)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a57/mdeayton/Bass%20gear/IMG00212-20110321-2216.jpg)
Looks like we have the same taste in basses. I will take a pic of my jaebird framed by a big al and stingray also. :)
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That is one great looking bass!
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That is one great looking bass!
Amen!
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Thanks! I'm waiting to hear how Mark likes the way it sounds with chromes on it. Sounded great to me through my B-15.
Shipping a Custom in U of Tennessee 'Vol Orange' Friday and finishing up Scott's Ebony with Badbird next. Go Gators!
Here's the current JAEbird II proto
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Project%20JAEbird/P1020705.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Project%20JAEbird/P1020729.jpg)
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I'm waiting to hear how Mark likes the way it sounds with chromes on it. Sounded great to me through my B-15.
I've only had headphone time so far, but I'm digging it for sure. As you know, I've used Chromes on other Thunderbirds previously and think they're the best flats to suit. This bass has plenty of mids, and can get nice and thumpy with the tone rolled off and the neck pickup soloed. I spent 2 hours with this bass last night practising new songs with headphones, and I'm very happy with it. Picked up a generic rectangular case today for $69 that fits it just fine (my Hiscox P/J/Stingray/Ric 4001 case was a fraction too narrow.
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I've only had headphone time so far, but I'm digging it for sure. As you know, I've used Chromes on other Thunderbirds previously and think they're the best flats to suit. This bass has plenty of mids, and can get nice and thumpy with the tone rolled off and the neck pickup soloed. I spent 2 hours with this bass last night practising new songs with headphones, and I'm very happy with it. Picked up a generic rectangular case today for $69 that fits it just fine (my Hiscox P/J/Stingray/Ric 4001 case was a fraction too narrow.
Glad your digging it. I'll eventually get around to posting some sounds. My pickup collaborator is going to be here next month and that's high on the to do list.
Re cases, for US customers I'm supplying modded Musician's gear hard shell cases (extra form fitting padding), with JAEbird stencil logo for $75. The bass also fits in a standard size gig bag.
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with JAEbird stencil logo
Oooh! I'd be happy to proudly wear a JAEbird logo on my case. Is there any chance I could get a stencil?
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I'll see what I can do, I'm still working out the details. As of now I have one case order going out in around a month so I need to get on it. Maybe a decal would be better.
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My new $69 eBay case fits the JAEbird perfectly!
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a57/mdeayton/Bass%20gear/IMG00216-20110323-2010.jpg)
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I'm using a similar case with added rigid foam blocks and foam padding under the neck at the heel and tail. 'Bird is now trussed up like a Thanksgiving turkey, zero movement. Have to get to a fabric store for some matching fabric and finish the job. That and the JAEbird USA stencil.
This case is from Musician's Friend. I'll post when it's finished. It's a $75 option from me.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020794.jpg)
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That bass without pup rings looks so wrong. But the color is killer!
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That bass without pup rings looks so wrong. But the color is killer!
Thanks! I was setting it up, those are the dummy covers. The finish is the customer's University color matched to a coffee mug. It has more yellow in it than Fiesta Red, very orange. Here it is before pick guard installation.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020804.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020807.jpg)
And ready to fly to Salisbury, NC...
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020824.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020826.jpg)
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Very nice work!
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...The finish is the customer's University color matched to a coffee mug. It has more yellow in it than Fiesta Red, very orange...
Spray, the refection in your finishes always seem to amaze me.
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That would be me. :)
First post here. Just wanted to pop in and lay claim to my riches. I'm stoked. I think the bass is wicked beautiful, carlo was a pleasure to deal with, and I can't wait till thursday.
welcome aboard Joe. We know each other from TB and i bought my dano 63 from Joe.. 8)
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(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020826.jpg)
Go VOLS!!
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Spray, the refection in your finishes always seem to amaze me.
Thanks, Sniper...I'll make sure I keep my pants on.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020810.jpg)
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Spray, the refection in your finishes always seem to amaze me.
seem to amaze!!??? Im spellbound! im not crazy about orange( except for the Gretsch that was kickin around recently) But I would be happy to be seen with that bass. Nice stuff.
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Spray, the refection in your finishes always seem to amaze me.
ME2 Stunning
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Oh yeah, orange is good too!!!!!!!!!!!
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That almost makes not tired of living in Knoxville! (UT inside joke)
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thats some beautiful work right there.
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(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1020824.jpg)
WOW! :o
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Played my first rehearsal last night with the fiesta red JAEbird. The guys in the band were equally impressed by the quality of the finish, the overall look - and the tone. Playing wise, the Allparts neck is great and amazingly has no dead spots, and I'm really liking the pickups. Because I play finger style, I've still got to get to grips with a good place to anchor my thumb when I do so, and the flat metal pickup covers overhang the pickups slightly so there is a sharpish edge to deal with. That's only a minor thing though, this bass is awesome and I'm very happy with it (and the price I paid!)
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"...the flat metal pickup covers overhang the pickups slightly so there is a sharpish edge to deal with."
Sorry about those edges,Mark. QC guy screwed up, he has been flogged. I will send you a pair of the new covers, smooth edges and solid Nickel Silver as soon as I have made a few more. Warmer look and longer lasting shine.
Here's the wrap up of the 'Siamese JAEbird' saga, two 'birds from one blank. The first one went to Mark in OZ. The second was supposed to be Ebony and go to Mr. Bassypants in Chitown. I had a problem with the black paint and put that body aside. This customer, Jimi Jimmi in the UK, wanted the lightest JAEbird he could get. He has back problems even though he's a young pup. I stripped the remaining body because it was the lightest I had at the time and shot it Polaris White. Installed Hipshot Ultralite tuners and moved the strap button to the back plate as Jim had done with his. 8.6 lbs and ZERO NECK DIVE. This one has the nickel covers, a byproduct of the ThunderBucker pickup project. The Allparts neck has a good amount of flame and eye, I haven't seen one as nice. Did a requested matte finish on the back of it (400 grit no fil sandpaper works great.)
Does seem fitting this one is going to the other end of the former British Empire from it's separated at birth brother.
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1030135.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1030133.jpg)
(http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae241/cata1d0/Siamese%20Birds/P1030140.jpg)
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That looks amazing! Now I'm really GASing for one of these in white.
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This seems apt, given Carlo's history:
"The waiting is the hardest part."
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Awesome work, again Carlo!