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Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs / Re: Lacquering a Rosewood fretboard?
« on: January 29, 2010, 08:45:33 AM »
Lacquers build. Varnishes build. Oils do not build, do not dry hard, and do not get glossy.
Any "tung oil" that builds and gets glossy is not a tung oil, but a varnish that may or may not be tung oil-based. For example, Formby's Tung Oil Finish is actually a thinned wiping varnish. Tru-Oil is not an oil at all, despite the way it's marketed. It's a varnish. That's why it builds. The "modified oil" in the MSDS is a weasel-word way of saying it's an oil-modified alkyd varnish. It's not as hard or as durable as some others.
Whatever you use, you will need many extra coats if you expect the finish to fill the pores instead of using a pore filler.
A phenolic resin varnish like Waterlox yellows more than poly or alkyd varnishes, I just don't know how it would work over inlays.
Any "tung oil" that builds and gets glossy is not a tung oil, but a varnish that may or may not be tung oil-based. For example, Formby's Tung Oil Finish is actually a thinned wiping varnish. Tru-Oil is not an oil at all, despite the way it's marketed. It's a varnish. That's why it builds. The "modified oil" in the MSDS is a weasel-word way of saying it's an oil-modified alkyd varnish. It's not as hard or as durable as some others.
Whatever you use, you will need many extra coats if you expect the finish to fill the pores instead of using a pore filler.
A phenolic resin varnish like Waterlox yellows more than poly or alkyd varnishes, I just don't know how it would work over inlays.