I like unfilled grain with transparent or translucent finishes, providing it's done right. I'm okay with matte or semi-gloss finishes if they're done properly. Even solid colored finishes like the gold can look nice in matte, filled or unfilled. My Melody Maker looks very nice in white satin.
The problem is that Gibson doesn't do it right on many of these. Some of them look like they were run through a spray booth operated by a baboon. None of the smoothness of my $250 Melody Maker, and some of these are $2000 basses. Just awful.
I do agree with that. ... I just don't claim to be able to tell from an online sales pic how bad the finish is (I believe you guys, that Gibson needs to pull up it's socks in that department though, because a number of you have bought new basses and complained in the past, going back a good few years), but they seem to only put the better-done ones up for display in local stores here.
I can see why people like oiled finishes on woods like maple, but when wood with grain as deep as mahogany
...
I want to be able to sweat my EB down at a show, and clean it up after.
See, I would be hesitant to finish a maple instrument in oil. This is because maple is much more prone to warping and damage (greying) due to moisture exposure (or humidity fluctuation) than maho. That said I have done this to a maple neck (1980 Gibson Sonex Custom 6 banger).... but I only risked it because a) I actually have a spare neck (Sonexes are bolt on) and b) it's 3 pc opposed grain laminated neck vs 1 pc so warp risk is reduced.
Trust me, oil looks great on maho (e.g. my 60s EB3) ... by deep I assume you mean physically (pores etc, vs visually) because maple certainly tends to look deeper (especially figured - that's the whole point), but maho is physically deeper. Sanding, including final stages where you wet the wood first (to raise the grain) goes a long way here. The manual rubbing in of the oil also acts as a buffing stage - kinda fills the grain a bit with a mix of oil and superfine maho dust. It also forms a bit of a protective film (like laquer does) after several coats (but thinner/softer). For something like a bass I always do like a bagillion coats, 1 or 2 a day lovingly and patiently rubbed in, for weeks. If done right (and maintained), tung oil will easily protect yer EB3 from a drenching performance. I haven't needed to reoil it yet (been almost 10 years, actively gigged as a main player for the first 5 or so), though just recently it occurred to me that I should as it is starting to look a bit duller than before (I've been procrastinating because Lucy don't leave the house much anymore anyway).
Think of it this way, have any of your unlaquered fretboards (just about anything rosewood or ebony that isn't a Ric) been damaged by your sweating? Those are just oiled.