Fret wire - what size do you like?

[Lightyear]

I'm contemplating what wire to order for my project and I'm wondering what size to order.  I have a 62 Fender reissue, with small frets, which I like and I also like Gibson's modern wire size as well.  Any thoughts?  Doc what are you using?

Ken, no need to chime in here on your favourite size - I know the answer already

[Hornisse]

I'm not sure what size they are but my all time favorite frets are the ones that were on the 1970's Fender basses.

[Dave W]

I like the modern Gibson frets, they're normal width but tall.

[exiledarchangel]

I can't stand small frets, they make an instrument feel "cheap" to me. Mediums are fine.

[drbassman]

I like the SM mediums.

[Highlander]

Mmmmff mmf mmmmmf mm mfmmmfmmmmfffff! (a Restraining Order has been placed on Mr Stewart's keyboard - Kingston Magistrates Court, Surrey, United Kingdom)

[drbassman]

You are such a perve!   

[Lightyear]

You are such a perve!  

It took me a second to figure that one out

I blame the lack of protien in the poor lads diet myself

So Doc what size is SM?  Lakland is using 41/85 - are you using SteMac wire or LMI wire?

[drbassman]

Stew Mac wire. I use several of their medium wires.  I find their large wires a pain in the butt to bend.

[Highlander]

You are such a perve!   

 

[dadagoboi]

Stew Mac wire. I use several of their medium wires.  I find their large wires a pain in the butt to bend.

How about StewMac's fret bender, Bill?  That seems to be a good tool to have for bigger frets.

I prefer vintage fret wire, thin with a very narrow contact strip with the strings.   Provides more accurate intonation and cleaner tone in my opinion...think about a 1/4 inch wide flat fret and its implications.

Fret wire got wider and flatter and board radius bigger as guitar players started bending notes.  Unfortunately basses followed suit.

Since you didn't ask: Fretboard Radius:smaller radius boards are more ergonomic and also intonate better, especially for chords, that's why the older the instrument the smaller the radius generally.  But we're all pretty much used to whatever decent instrument radius we started out with.  Dual radius guitar boards are small radius at the top so you can play in tune chords and flatter at the bottom for soloing.  Happily not a concern for me.

It's more difficult to shape and fret a small radius board and another reason cheaper guitars have flatter boards.

But whatever floats yer boat.  Or whips yer booty

[Dave W]

Since you didn't ask: Fretboard Radius:smaller radius boards are more ergonomic and also intonate better, especially for chords, that's why the older the instrument the smaller the radius generally.  But we're all pretty much used to whatever decent instrument radius we started out with.  Dual radius guitar boards are small radius at the top so you can play in tune chords and flatter at the bottom for soloing.  Happily not a concern for me.

It's more difficult to shape and fret a small radius board and another reason cheaper guitars have flatter boards.

But whatever floats yer boat.  Or whips yer booty

The most expensive steel string guitars usually have large radius boards and the most expensive classicals are flat. They don't have trouble intonating.

Given the choice, I'll take a large radius board any day. Easier for me to play, chords or single notes.

[Lightyear]

How about StewMac's fret bender, Bill?  That seems to be a good tool to have for bigger frets.

I prefer vintage fret wire, thin with a very narrow contact strip with the strings.   Provides more accurate intonation and cleaner tone in my opinion...think about a 1/4 inch wide flat fret and its implications.

Fret wire got wider and flatter and board radius bigger as guitar players started bending notes.  Unfortunately basses followed suit.

Since you didn't ask: Fretboard Radius:smaller radius boards are more ergonomic and also intonate better, especially for chords, that's why the older the instrument the smaller the radius generally.  But we're all pretty much used to whatever decent instrument radius we started out with.  Dual radius guitar boards are small radius at the top so you can play in tune chords and flatter at the bottom for soloing.  Happily not a concern for me.

It's more difficult to shape and fret a small radius board and another reason cheaper guitars have flatter boards.

But whatever floats yer boat.  Or whips yer booty

I'm splitting the middle - I'm going for 10" radius on my 32" scale.  I absolutley hate Warwick's 16" radius boards - combine that with their sharp, non-relieved board edges & you have unplayable - IMO.  I think 10" is a good compromise and I'll probably go for something in the medium fret range.  That and I'm going to make sure that the boards edges are nicely rolled

[Freuds_Cat]

Bevelled jumbo's on my Jazz. I think they were Dimarzio wire. Great to play on for me. Although I would hate to have frets like that on my Woody bass. Different basses, different ppl = different frets I guess.

[dadagoboi]

The most expensive steel string guitars usually have large radius boards and the most expensive classicals are flat. They don't have trouble intonating.

You're right about that...I'm going to have to reassess my crackpot theory.