Author Topic: The proper 3 point bridge setup  (Read 5103 times)

lowendgenerator

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 34
  • I'm not a retard, but I play one on stage...
    • View Profile
    • Destructive Playthings
The proper 3 point bridge setup
« on: April 01, 2008, 11:00:37 AM »
It looks pretty simple right? Just adjust the 3 screws until you're comfortable with the action, or so it seems. I just purchased an Epi T-Bird and I'm new to the old school bridges. Is there a specific way to set these up? Or am I overcomplicating things?

Also, someone has an Epi Tbird for sale locally with a BAII installed, how the heck did that happen and is it even possible?

Thanks!

Adam
Thunderbird > BDDI > SVT-CL > 4x10 CL + 1x18 = :)

drbassman

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6699
  • Gone but not forgotten
    • View Profile
Re: The proper 3 point bridge setup
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2008, 12:34:29 PM »
Well, they can be a pain at first, but you can get the hang of it if you keep working at it.  For me, the biggest thing to remember is to keep the single front stud level with or slightly higher than the bigger back studs.  If you get the back studs too high in relationship to the front single stud, especially on Epiphones with this bridge, they have a tendency to pull the back stud ferrules out of the body because of the angle.  Doesn't happen as much with Gibsons, but I have seen it happen with one of mine. 

It then becomes a matter of lowering the bridge gradually to a point where the action is where you want it without too much string buzzing.  If you are lowering the bridge with a half turn or more of the studs, you should retune as that will change the action, neck relief and buzzing.  Trial and error really.  That's about how I do it.

I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!

lowendgenerator

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 34
  • I'm not a retard, but I play one on stage...
    • View Profile
    • Destructive Playthings
Re: The proper 3 point bridge setup
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2008, 01:04:00 PM »
When I bought the bass the back studs were a bit higher than the front stud. I backed them down and brought the front one up. The bridge is sitting at an angle now, and it seems ok to me. The action is real low with no buzzing. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing any damage by having the bridge cocked back like that.

Also, relocating the strap button to one of the screws for the neck really helped with the neck dive. Just thought I would throw that in for good measure! ;)

Thanks for your help!
Thunderbird > BDDI > SVT-CL > 4x10 CL + 1x18 = :)

Chris P.

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5247
  • Warwickhoer
    • View Profile
    • The La La Lies
Re: The proper 3 point bridge setup
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2008, 01:31:39 PM »
I have this great Dutch luthier called Piet Visser who does my basses. My '76 Bird has a very, very low action.

lowendgenerator

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 34
  • I'm not a retard, but I play one on stage...
    • View Profile
    • Destructive Playthings
Re: The proper 3 point bridge setup
« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2008, 01:35:35 PM »
LOL too bad I'm not in Dutchland  ;D

I try to do as much of my own work as possible. I can set up a Fender bass in the dark wearing boxing gloves. Gibby/Epi basses are a new venture for me.
Thunderbird > BDDI > SVT-CL > 4x10 CL + 1x18 = :)

drbassman

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6699
  • Gone but not forgotten
    • View Profile
Re: The proper 3 point bridge setup
« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2008, 12:49:43 PM »
Practice makes perfect.  It does get easier if you're not the sort to give up easilt.
I'm fixin' a hole where the rain gets in..........cuz I'm built for a kilt!