Guitar Player Repair Guide, pages 226-227 (1994 Edition) will answer every glue and headstock repair question and/or confuse you completely.
And thanks to your excellent note, I now have the 2007 edition in hand! Been meaning to pick it up and I appreciate the prompt. on page 167 it has the same drawing of the jig used to place stress on the crack that is shown in the pages you posted earlier. Thanks to your prompt, I was near a large bookstore today and picked up the latest edition.
The offset post holes are normal. That's part of helping the original bar bridge intonate.
I'm not sure the Supertone will work. The earlier string spacing was slightly different than the later, and I don't think it's designed for the offset posts of the bar bridge. Better consult with them before ordering.
I'm not sure either. It helps a LOT to know that the offset post holes are normal, and I think that's the biggest problem. According to the info I've been able to find online the spacing is right (3 1/4", which is as per the Hipshot spec sheet found at
http://www.hipshotproducts.com/files/all/two_point_dimensions_drawing1.pdf ) but the offset may be a show stopper for that bridge. I have emailed Hipshot asking about the fit for my bass.
Best info I've been able to find online is that the Schaller 460 bridge (not the later models with a letter after the 460) is correct for this app, but they haven't been made for years so the few floating around are going to cost $$. I've started doing regular searches for one, but if I can't find one, I may resort to a bar bridge. I don't intend to re-install the BadAss, as I'm not a fan - IMO their biggest contribution is their weight, which does help to balance the EB-0.
Lots of good advice so far Al. That is one nasty set of fissures you have there. Not the usual big break or single fault line. I'm not sure how I'd approach this one.
I can't express how grateful I am for the excellent thoughts and advice given on thie forum. I really appreciate the expertise you guys share. I'm going to find out everything I can before deciding whether to tackle this myself. I realize that this thread has gone on at some length, but I really do respect the instrument and want to do a good, high quality repair that will result in a sound instrument that plays well and looks good. I believe that I can see anything that a guitar pro can see in terms of opening the crack, but I may not interpret it as well as a pro would. I'm hoping that some of those smaller cracks are just surface finish cracks and not in the wood. When i get more time to examine it carefully I'll report further.