CURRENT CATALDO

[dadagoboi]

Here's an update on the NR build.  Headstock time!
Used my 67 EBO as a starting point


Sticky paper on the front


Trimmed


Transferred


Hipshots stick out farther than the original Gibsons


Slightly larger to accommodate the Hipshots


After some work with drill press, band saw and oscillating spindle sander.


Vaguely familiar but how many designs are there?

[Pilgrim]

After some work with drill press, band saw and oscillating spindle sander.

Now THERE is a man who knows how to install and wind strings!!! I salute you!

I actually put one wind over the strings where it comes out of the tuner cavity, but those are not going anywhere.

[dadagoboi]

Now THERE is a man who knows how to install and wind strings!!! I salute you!

I actually put one wind over the strings where it comes out of the tuner cavity, but those are not going anywhere.

Thanks!  I  like a lot of string on the posts.  Seems like the best way to eliminate slippage, though there have been a lot of times I've had one wrap with no problem.  I did have to use a string tree to get enough downward angle on the D and A, maximum wrap wasn't enough.

[4stringer77]

Couldn't get an angled headstock?

[dadagoboi]

Couldn't get an angled headstock?

Not a problem, maybe on the next one.  I preferred to use a one I'm familiar with for my first set neck.

Neck clamped to body with narrow strip that fits between A and D to check alignment with pup and bridge.  Pickup over the strings goes into Korg Pandora to check intonation.


Titebond evenly applied to both neck and pocket.  Clamped with a 1/8" hardboard caul that follows the curvature of the fretboard with clamp placement (at the edges of the board.  Squeezeout cleaned up before it sets.  I prefer iron metal clamps for this kind of application since the strongest joint is the one with the least Titebond between the pieces being joined.  Can't do that with pistol type plastic clamps IMO.


Heel shaped and sanded.

[drbassman]

Looking good!

[godofthunder]

Awesome as always ! A belated Happy Birthday!

[dadagoboi]

Looking good!

Awesome as always ! A belated Happy Birthday!

Thanks, guys, only took me 50+ basses to attempt a set neck! B'day seems like years ago.

[Bionic-Joe]

Nice!!! I've never done a Bolt on myself....Set necks seem easier to me...I'd Love to do a Korina/walnut Neck through 8 string T bird...

[Dave W]

Is this a Fender type neck joint, but glued in?

[dadagoboi]

Is this a Fender type neck joint, but glued in?

Yep, Allparts neck with adjustment at the heel.  I've used around 60 in the last 3 years without a problem. 

[Dave W]

Yep, Allparts neck with adjustment at the heel.  I've used around 60 in the last 3 years without a problem. 

Not questioning the Allparts neck, I know you and others have had great luck with them. Always wondered why Gibson type tenons were necessary when a glued in Fender style neck fitted closely and glued properly should be just as reliable if you want a set neck.

[Highlander]

I believe it's due to shear factors - the strongest points will be where it is glued at the "sides" so the more "vertical" contact points the better - Carlo will know where the grain of the wood can separate if under stress, so the choice of the body timber would need to be a more "vertical" grain to ensure this being minimised - the "Gibson" neck joint is more complex but provides greater vertical contact points so minimising these "shear" issues...

Does that sound reasonable...?

[dadagoboi]

Not questioning the Allparts neck, I know you and others have had great luck with them. Always wondered why Gibson type tenons were necessary when a glued in Fender style neck fitted closely and glued properly should be just as reliable if you want a set neck.

No tenons on EBO or EB-3 necks...or NR TBirds if I'm not mistaken.  I think using neck tenons might go back to building a solid body as if it were an acoustic.  "That's the way we do it around here."

I'd also wondered about tenons.  IMO what was necessary on an acoustic using hide glue which fractures on the glue line might not be needed on a solid body using aliphatic resin glue which makes the glue line stronger than the wood on either side.

I strung up the bass 4 hours after I glued it up.  Wearing the proper safety equipment, of course.  I think it will be OK.

I believe it's due to shear factors - the strongest points will be where it is glued at the "sides" so the more "vertical" contact points the better - Carlo will know where the grain of the wood can separate if under stress, so the choice of the body timber would need to be a more "vertical" grain to ensure this being minimised - the "Gibson" neck joint is more complex but provides greater vertical contact points so minimising these "shear" issues...

Does that sound reasonable...?

It does.  Rock maple has no shear problem, neither does flat grain honduras so if the surfaces are both flat there shouldn't be a problem.

What's interesting to me on a 4 (or 6) bolt neck is that the 2 screws closest to the headstock are in tension, the others in compression and not really needed with a tight neck pocket.  I only use 2 on my personal NR.  No perceptible difference in tone or sustain from using all six bolts.  But six looks serious.

[Dave W]

What's interesting to me on a 4 (or 6) bolt neck is that the 2 screws closest to the headstock are in tension, the others in compression and not really needed with a tight neck pocket.  I only use 2 on my personal NR.  No perceptible difference in tone or sustain from using all six bolts.  But six looks serious.

I read the same thing from someone, may have been Joe Veilette. His guitars and basses use a single machine bolt that's hidden under the neck strap pin. It goes into a t-nut. I don't know if the neck pocket is different in any other way. The two I've seen in person did have tight neck joints.