The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Rickenbacker Basses => Topic started by: drbassman on March 27, 2012, 04:46:41 AM
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Anyone try, or even see, one of the Hipshot replacement bridges for a 4003? I'm curious about them. I have one of their replacement bridges on a TB and it is excellent.
(https://store.hipshotproducts.com/secure/images/products/398.jpg)
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A friend of mine had one on a 70's Ric and it rattled.
But I also read some good reviews, and it does enable palm-mute, and it's a drop-in, and it follows the aesthetics of the rest of the bass, so I guess it's worth a try if you dislike the Ric unit.
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I've been back and forth with those. First, I had an original brass one. Worked great, no issues. But it weighed a ton and seemed to darken the tone too much. Then, I bought a newer aluminum one. Better weight, better tone, but the G saddle wobbled like crazy, and the D a little bit too. I tried notching the groove that the height adjustment screw rests in a little deeper, but that didn't quite do it. I finally ended up putting the stock bridge/tailpiece back on, but with the mute completely removed (no more thumb screws), and I replaced the piece of junk philips head intonation screws with some socket cap head screws so I can actually adjust the bridge. What I'd really like is a chrome plated metal plate in the shape of the stock unit with a good old Schaller roller bridge on top.
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What I'd really like is a chrome plated metal plate in the shape of the stock unit with a good old Schaller roller bridge on top.
How about nickel silver for the plate? What thickness to make the Schaller the proper height?
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How about nickel silver for the plate? What thickness to make the Schaller the proper height?
Are you suggesting you could fabricate one with a Schaller bridge on it and nickel pated? That would be interesting.
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Are you suggesting you could fabricate one with a Schaller bridge on it and nickel pated? That would be interesting.
Should be pretty easy. The base would be solid nickel silver, same as ThunderBucker covers and rings. It's available in varying thicknesses.
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1/8'' should do it. Not sure why you would do nickel plating though, since all the Ric hardware is chrome. I guess the pre-mid 80s tuners were nickel, but the tailpieces and pickup surrounds and covers are chrome. I know the Schaller is not everyone's cup of tea, but I've had them on probably a dozen different basses over the years and have zero complaints. I actually quite like them. No sharp edges like a Badass, and no need to slot the saddles. I just put a little thread lock on there so the rollers don't move around every time I change strings.
Edit: OK, I think what you're saying is, solid nickel silver - no plating required? Good idea!
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1/8'' should do it. Not sure why you would do nickel plating though, since all the Ric hardware is chrome. I guess the pre-mid 80s tuners were nickel, but the tailpieces and pickup surrounds and covers are chrome. I know the Schaller is not everyone's cup of tea, but I've had them on probably a dozen different basses over the years and have zero complaints. I actually quite like them. No sharp edges like a Badass, and no need to slot the saddles. I just put a little thread lock on there so the rollers don't move around every time I change strings.
The nickel isn't plating. The material is an alloy of nickel so it polishes to a mirror finish It's sort of like solid stainless compared to chrome plated steel. Nickel silver is easily chromed, it just adds to the cost significantly if you're doing small numbers. A prototype could be done in aluminum.
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I put a brass Hipshot on my (2010) 4003 last year. No rattles. My only nit-pick is that the area in front of the saddles could have been smoothed more before plating. There are machine marks still visible. It's cosmetic, doesn't affect function...