Inspired by this thread:
http://bassoutpost.com/index.php?topic=4970.0 FWIW
When I was a young man learning to hunt I read an article about how to “seat” your rifle. It involved protecting/greasing the action and barrel and glue setting said barrel into a bit of glue one would put in the stock. The theory was to get the greatest contact along the barrel of the rifle and the stock to reduce vibrations from influencing the bullet as it traveled down the barrel. Now the idea is a thick barrel free floating, but it was a start of a good idea. I used "bondo" in my 22 Winchester single shot.
Later in life when I was involved with race cars, we would “seat” the driver (with a good racing magazine because the driver had to set still for at least an hour) while we basically put expanding foam in a garbage bag and set said driver on top of the bag which was in the drivers seat. Again the idea was to keep the driver from moving around while strapped in the seat maximizing body contact with the car and keeping said drivers butt from sliding around at all while the car was moving. Foam dried and wa-lah a form fitted seat.
Now in later years I am concerned about seating a bolt on neck into a wooden body while still maintaining the convenience of being able to break down the guitar for repair or a new setup ranging from playing with the truss rod for some change or whatever else the instrument might need and being able to return it to my optimum playing state of assembly (neck angle and knowing the vibrations of the body will still have maximum effect on the neck).
1) If I a going to use a bolt on neck, I will use threaded metal inserts in the neck
2) I reserve the right to also use plastic kitchen wrap, epoxy and wax to “seat” the neck and do it in sort of the race car fashion by using a small sheet of plastic wrap to protect the neck from getting glued in by spreading a bit of wax on said wrap, spreading a small amount of epoxy in the neck cavity then bolting on the neck at a previously predetermined neck angle (which might include a wedge shim or wire screening) from setting up the instrument.
3) Letting the assembly set until the epoxy is dry and give it a test disassemble, reassemble to see if it returns to the previous state.
The micro surface of the neck and the dry epoxy should now match perfectly allowing the greatest amount of vibrations to transfer to the neck from the body of the guitar while still being able to disassemble the instrument if needed and not letting the neck move while it is being played.
Yeah you will probaly have to trim away some epoxy from the edges when it done.
Just a thought for whats its worth.
