The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: Barklessdog on April 04, 2008, 09:36:12 AM
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I am still considering making a Blueshawk bass
Some things that were unique to the guitar-
http://www.blueshawk.info/specification.htm
A Varitone similar to the Big D varitone, in that it's not a pickup selector, but an overall capacitor varitone only
Single coil soapbar pickups
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/bodyh1.jpg)
A noise canceling dummy rear mounted pickup
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/bodyh9.jpg)
Semi hollow poplar body with maple cap, mahogany neck
three position Strat style pickup selector
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/image1.gif)
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If I did a bass version, I would make the body from scratch, using poplar and a 1/4 maple flat top. I wonder how good poplar would be to anchor a bass bridge to?
For the pickups I would use the single coil G-3's with either three of them or use two and make a dummy coil, which I understand has to be the same output/windings as the pickups but with no magnets?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/gbluehawk2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/bluehawkbass.jpg)
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Isn't Photoshop nice?
Are there any real nerds here? It would nice to have a program in which you can select a Gibson body (SG, LP, Bird, Explorer, ...), a colour, a Gibson neck (short/long), a headstock (2+2, V, Bird, ...), pick up type, pick up amount. We can all make our dream basses then:)
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I remember reading a guitar article where some place in China does that, you pick the body shapes and build your bass on line ala Carvin/Warmoth/ Nike Tennis Shoes.
I just got off the phone with Lindy Fralin, he said you could just demagnitize the middle pickup and and the other two reverse poles??
to get the same effect, so I can just use what I have. You could then mount the pickups in cream Soap Bar like mounts (I could make).
My Friend has a Blueshawk guitar which is really nice. hopefully he can get me a tracing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/Blueshawk.jpg)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/bluehawkkahler.jpg)
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Man, you are killing me! I' love the concept, in fact, it makes me think of a Duesenburg bass. I've been thinking the exact some thing!
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Here are full size guitar blue prints for sale-
http://www.guitarplansunlimited.com/blueshawk_page.htm
http://cgi.ebay.com/GIBSON-BLUESHAWK-GUITAR-BLUEPRINT-PLAN_W0QQitemZ110241078811QQihZ001QQcategoryZ47067QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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I just KNEW I should stay away from this thread. Now, I have another item to watch on Ebay. With the neck I just got, I've been debating how to use it, and this certainly looks like a great idea. I've always regretted selling my Guild M-85. Maybe I'll find the next best thing to replace it with.
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My question is pickup placement for the single coils on a bass.
If placed againt the neck, in a triumph set up, I might get a Triumph type tone, although the Bill Lawrence pups are high output?
At a modern LP placement a more Fender Jazz sound?
The guitar has quite a following and a lot of unique features that will be cool for a bass. Big D still makes the bass Varitones, I liked mine on my EB-0 project. A lot of cool tones can be had, but again, the output varies greatly between settings.
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I just KNEW I should stay away from this thread. Now, I have another item to watch on Ebay. With the neck I just got, I've been debating how to use it, and this certainly looks like a great idea. I've always regretted selling my Guild M-85. Maybe I'll find the next best thing to replace it with.
I have been debating on using a mahogany body with a maple neck, since the Blueshawk had a mahogany neck, it might be sonically closer. Still I find the Poplar body intreaging. They have single pieces big enough at our local exotic wood store, inexpensive as well.
Anyone have any comments on a Poplar body & maple neck for a bass?
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I have been debating on using a mahogany body with a maple neck, since the Blueshawk had a mahogany neck, it might be sonically closer. Still I find the Poplar body intreaging. They have single pieces big enough at our local exotic wood store, inexpensive as well.
Anyone have any comments on a Poplar body & maple neck for a bass?
Never seen it used, but anything is possible, no? I'm a fan of maple necks though, love the brightness and snap they have.
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I have been debating on using a mahogany body with a maple neck, since the Blueshawk had a mahogany neck, it might be sonically closer. Still I find the Poplar body intreaging. They have single pieces big enough at our local exotic wood store, inexpensive as well.
Anyone have any comments on a Poplar body & maple neck for a bass?
I have a MusicMan SUB 4 and a SUB Sterling, neither semihollow but both poplar with maple necks (and rosewood boards). Plenty of pop without being overaggressive. They have a nice broad tonal range, not as warm sounding as mahogany but clearer, not mid-shy like some ash.
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Ive worked w/ poplar a lot , but not for guitars.It is very stable and mills/shapes well. Its not pretty but I have seen some woodworkers do some select book matching with the occasional purple veins it has, with some beautiful results. Id ask your wood supplier if he has any with some purple grain. It also takes paint very well . Keep us posted .mike..
I would also imagine it would be fine for mounting a bridge.
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I just got off the horn with my luthier and he was less than enthusiastic with the whole concept as he thinks is it going to be horribly neck heavy to the point of being unplayable?
First if you have a smaller LP guitar sized body that does not have the best balance to start with, made out of a light wood, chambered, plus a long scale neck. He was not gun ho about the idea to say the least.
Of coarse I believe his is biased against LP basses and is a Fender guy. Thinking about it, my LP is somewhat chambered and long scale and too not terribly balanced.
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I can't agree with your luthier. My SUB Sterling isn't chambered, but it's a small body longscale with 22 frets and it's the best balanced bass I have. And that's without using lightweight tuners.
A top of a heavier wood can counterbalance chambering if you don't take out too much wood, and you can use lightweight tuners. If that's not enough, you could also move the lower strap button a couple of inches up the bass side lower bout.
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I think I am going to have to build it myself, as it looks. He was just too unenthusiastic about it.
Found a away to do the blue color without having to use binding.
http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Finishing/Colors,_stains/a-blueguitar_2.html
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I agree with shadowcastaz that poplar takes paint exceptionally well. But it's not easy to get it to stain evenly because of the greenish striping it often has. Are you talking about a stained maple top and a painted back?
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I was thinking staining the whole thing as I also found out the guy who painted my Fenderbird is no longer doing jobs for people.
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I'm no expert, but the Guild M-85 and Epiphone Rumblekat seem to handle pretty well. I would think that using ultralite tuners would help the balance.
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BluesHawk Ripper & G-3
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/ripper3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/ripper4.jpg)
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I have some clear blue that reranch sells. I have not used it on a project but it looks great on their site.
as far as small body and long scale neck dive, I have a genesis epi bass that is pretty balanced and the body is about 2/3 of a ripper in size, but it is thick
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/shadowcastaz/hype2.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/shadowcastaz/IMG_0055.jpg)
the allan woody balanced fine
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How is that Genesis bass? I've made a play for a couple of them over the past year, but had other priorities, and didn't feel like going that high on bidding.
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I also have an old no name short scale Fender Style Mahogany Bolt on neck from a bass project from college.
If I used that with the scratch built body it would be almost spot on with the guitar wood construction wise, then I could do something else with the Ripper.
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Yeah I picked it up a few years back right after I got my Black ripper.Uwe wisely named them Jeckle & Hyde. i have not played it in a while,Its quite a plank. coil tap I believe. Time to get reaquainted ;D
Barkless, you planning a short or long scale, I forget ???
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Here are my two choices- I have decided that I'm going to make a body and use one of these two necks.
Choice one - Long Scale Ripper neck-Looks more Gibson like but is different wood (maple) than a Blueshawk guitar and will most likely be pretty neck heavy?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/bluehawkkahler2.jpg)
Choice two - I have this old mahogany short scale 30" scale bolt on neck with a maple fingerboard, the downside is it's a Fender style headstock with string tree. I cut the Fender part off so its kind of a hockey stick affair right now. I could add to it and make it more Tbird or victory like, but still is different from the Blueshawk guitar. Right now it is a bolt on, but I would route away material from the heel and make it a set neck. It's also surprisingly a wide & chubby little neck, 1 5/8" at the nut and a thick volute between the headstock & nut. Intersting little neck though, It's virtually mint, from the early 80's
I have the Kahler much to everyones delight, but also have a Fenderish short scale bridge that came with the bass the neck came from.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/bluehawkkahler4.jpg)
I wish we could do polls here
What do you guys think would be better?
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I vote to go with the long scale neck.
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I vote long scale neck, cream pup bindings, no whammy bar. Sa=weeet!
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I think the short scale headstock looks way cooler, and maple necks are gross to me. Use the trem too.
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I like mahog ,But.... It would do the brand justice to make it long scale. You could do 2 bodies and set it up both ways. Cant be that much more work. ::)I like the cream binding etc. It would look great!
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You could do 2 bodies and set it up both ways. Cant be that much more work.
Yeah, I can make all screw ups on first one, then throw it away!
A lot will depend on when I get the blue prints and lay it out. I have to use the Kahler, it's a Barkless Dog thing (like a dog that licks his arse all night long!). I am going to need the extra room behind the bridge saddles for a Kahler. The BluesHawk Body is one inch shorter than the LP so to make it long scale I might have to make the body a little bigger.
I absolutely love the Ripper's neck, but a Mahogany short scale set neck is very Gibson (not in looks) as well and more in keeping with the guitar's construction, but it's a wide little chunky guy, almost RD/P bass like.
Laying it out should help determine the outcome.
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I gotta say I think a rosewood board on a 30" mahog neck would be great on this bass. I would be concerned about the neck heaviness of a long scale neck if the body is a bit on the light side. I'm really liking the blue as well. I'm thinking about ordering a set of plans for myself!
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I bought a chunk of poplar and it's surprisingly heavy! Not as light as you would have imagined. I also bought some slightly figured Hard maple that the lumber yard cut in half for free so I can have a book-matched Top!
I was looking not an overly figured, flame/curl piece as I like a more subtle look.
Got the Big D varitone yesterday and it appears he is using a different source for capacitors. I will have to send the pickups to Fralin so he can reverse the polarity on one and demagnetize the Dummy pup.
The poplar is kind of green. It's a single piece. Dave you said that blue dye does not turn out well with greenish poplar?
I could do transparent blue nitro, but I really like the look of a dyed top the way the grain pops. On the original it looks like Blue transparent Nitro instead of dyed, by the way the grain is somewhat hidden?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/Blueshawk.jpg)
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try some 2 part wood bleach to see if it lightens the green of the poplar. you could try a wash coat on a finish sanded surface( thinned) of flat white, wipe it off so the grain shows thru . 400 grit the raised grain then try the blue dye.
Ive done this on maple and birch for a pickled wood look. shows the natural grain. I can send a pic on maple if you like. The main look for your Blueshawk is the top, which should show the blue fine.Mike
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I bought a chunk of poplar and it's surprisingly heavy! Not as light as you would have imagined.
It's typically about the same weight as alder, about the same stiffness but a little softer in surface hardness.
The poplar is kind of green. It's a single piece. Dave you said that blue dye does not turn out well with greenish poplar?
I've never tried dyeing or staining it, just painting it.
Poplar has a reputation for not staining well, but dyeing seems to be preferred and darker seems to work better. I don't know about blue, though. Do you really want to stain or dye two different woods the same color? There's probably a good reason Gibson usually doesn't match the tops and backs of LPs.
Here (http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=3158297&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1) is a thread from Woodnet that might give you some ideas of what other people have done. If you want to keep the information, save it to your hard drive because all threads there expire after one year.
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back & front of a Gibson Blueshawk
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/bodyh9.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/bodyh1.jpg)
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Well, then, go for it. The reason I mentioned it is because it's usually difficult to get an exact color match with two different woods.
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I suspect Gibson Used Transparent blue instead of Dying it. The grain seems to be pretty flat when Compared to Dyed Blue tops. But maybe that is why the top & back are consistent?
I read that you dye the wood with water based, then sand it back and dye it again, to pop the grain. The seal & clear coat.
I would think the detail gets lost with multiple coats of transparent blue?
The transparent Blue I bet looks better for the poplar. Also notice how similar the mahogany neck & poplar body appear. A larger picture would be nice.
There is a difference in the quality of top woods from Gibson to a PRS!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/513_bluematteo.jpg)
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Looks like Gibson did not trust poplar for adjustable screws, notice the metal thread inserts in the body under the pickup.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/BHp-u25-11-02011.jpg)
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I like the threaded inserts. Its better quality,IMHO. Prs 10 tops are beautiful, but you were doing less figure in your maple which I totally understand. PRS vs.gibby very different finish process I believe. I wish I had a piece of poplar around to try the white wash i spoke of earlier. Im curious for myself now. i think a friend sent me the Blueshawk drawings some years ago.Do you know if they ship in a tube? It would be easier for me to find. I gotta finish painting my family room or Ill be out in the rain , if you know what i mean....Im checkin on the plans.. BTW I have 3 gibson head overlays(plastic?) w/ gibby name cut out no MOP. I was gonna use a white concoction of some sort when I get to it. If you want one ,Id be happy to send u one.M
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thanks!
Well laying things out the long scale neck is only about 1/2" or so longer than the short scale 30" !
I was shocked. they are very close to the same overall length.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/compares.jpg)
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short scale Layout pups & bridge
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030296.jpg)
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ripper bridge layout actually gives me more room for the pups due to the Kahler mounted closer to the end- still have about an inch left
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030292.jpg)
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crazy short scale volute- I could take it down a bit- kind of a chunky little neck, but kind of cool too.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/valute.jpg)
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Book matched top I just glued. I had the wood place sand both the poplar & top to size- they charged me $8.00
Cost of the wood - $ 40 + the $8.00 sanding.
They have huge pieces of Genuine mahogany, poplar, purple heart & bubinga like 10' x 4' x 2"
Not really highly figure but nice just the same has a bit of curly & flame throughout with out being crazy tiger like- they split the board to book match it for free!
great wood place!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/wood.jpg)
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As tempted as i am to say go Mahog, Id save it for another funky project. maybe a travel fenderbird! what am i saying. ...... I really want to make a ripper/G3 clone like the one done by another member in gibby red, but you really got me thinkin about the BHawk. i love the semi hollow belly . I miss my alan woody , believe it or not. The thought of a full scale , semi hollow gibby keeps me awake at night . Im also restoring a guild Starfire at the moment so Im up to my ears, sort o speak. the 2(or 3,I loose track) semi's that Dr. Bassman is workin on are an inspiration for all of us .
what ever you decide Im sure it will be awesome. While Im lookin for the Blueshawk plans, I hope I find some poplar so I can test the surface and report by week end.
my daughter called from Boston , she is at sox/yankees game , 4 rows behind dugout. I did something good as a parent. she is a pissah!!!!!
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John, I hope you're talking about the overall neck length when you say there's only 1/2" difference. On a 20-fret neck, the difference from the nut to the 20th fret (30" v. 34") is 2 3/4".
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yes, the overall length
I dont know if the balance difference would be that great?
Wither way I was thinking hipshot light weight tuners.
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I'm only able to see the pics now - back from Denmark. I like the concept, but that short scale neck with the modernistic headstock is - forgive me - an acquired taste. I'd definitely go long scale. And if you really put in that Kahler bridge, I don't think neck heaviness will be much of an issue, besides you'll be holding the bass by the whammy bar most of the time in any case!
Uwe
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I am going to try the long scale for a couple of reasons- I too can't get over the look of the shortscale neck headstock- it's not very Blueshawk looking, also it's not really that comfy with the huge growth behind the nut. A triumph neck would be the best, anyone have one to spare?
The plus side of the Ripper neck is - they are great necks, IT SAYS GIBSON on it - completing the Gibson theme and would ad more value to the project, it will allow me more room for the Pickup placement and as Uwe pointed out it moves the massive bridge out further for better balance.
I noticed that he Ripper neck is mounted at a slight angle. Does anyone know if the angle is on the neck or in the body pocket ?
What gives the neck the angle?
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IIRC Gibson puts the angle on the tenon, not the pocket. But it doesn't really matter.
You wouldn't necessarily need the same angle, depending on the bridge height. You may not need any angle.
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you could always go the Trini Lopez route (no pun intended) and get this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Gibson-Firebird-IV-Bass-Neck-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ260229942477QQihZ016QQcategoryZ41423QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/Gibson-Firebird-IV-Bass-Neck-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ260229942477QQihZ016QQcategoryZ41423QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
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you could always go the Trini Lopez route (no pun intended) and get this...
An Epi Thunderbird bass neck described as a "Gibson Firebird" and listed under guitar parts. ??? ::) Oh well, it's probably worth the opening bid to someone.
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A trini lopez style EB2 would be great. I like Noel Gallagher playing one and I also like the new Dave Grohl sig. A friend of mine could buy one once for a fair price and we went to see this TL-guitar. He decided he wanted a normal 335. Still hate him about that!
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was able to get the neck off, but I ended up cutting out of the body as it would not budge.
I found out why- there was two metal pins in the tenon- also you can see the shim they used still glued on
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030312.jpg)
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I routed the chamber it's only 1/2 inch deep going by the blue prints
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/chamber.jpg)
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Rough cut the F holes and drilled the pot holes. I wanted to drill the holes before the top was glued to the body as I feared drilling in the wood without backing would chip the backside of the holes.
I traced the body on both pieces and drilled holes for two mounting pins that will line up the two pieces correctly when glued.
Next I have to clean up the F holes and glue the top, then cut the body out and do the rest of the cavity routing. I moved the bridge pickup forward a little from the picture
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/top.jpg)
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did you decide on stain ,dye or spray?Looks good so far. I found my plans and a set of explorer plans from the same guy,If you know someone that wants them . Explorer is not my thing. Im still not too clear on the dummy coil but I can quiz you on that at a later date. Enjoy the sun.M
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Why would they put metal pins in a glued-in neck?
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Why would they put metal pins in a glued-in neck?
weird!
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id you decide on stain ,dye or spray?Looks good so far. I found my plans and a set of explorer plans from the same guy,If you know someone that wants them . Explorer is not my thing. Im still not too clear on the dummy coil but I can quiz you on that at a later date. Enjoy the sun.M
I had to cut through the pins or nails with he bandsaw to get it apart-
The idea of a dummy coil is to cancel hum from single coil pups. Alembic has them on their series II or I's. I was told they they have one under the pickguards of mm's and dummy coils under J bass stacked pups.
the dummy coil has the exact windings of the other pickups, but no magnet.
I going to use blue dye
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Looking good. I just might have to try one!
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I got the plans . ;D
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I'll probably order some too just in case!
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Here is a picture of the Alembics Dummy pickup only used on their most expensive series I & II's, like Stanley Clarke plays.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/DSCF0237.jpg)
The Series basses have 2 single coil pickups, which like a Jazz bass pickup is also susceptible to hum. The hum canceller is wired into the preamp out of phase with the other pickups, so the common signal, ie the hum, is cancelled out, but none of the music signal from the pickups is. The way it's all connected together via the preamp means that you can get all the clarity and extension of a single coil with the hum resistance of a humbucker.
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The original PRS basses from the 80s had three single coil pickups and a fourth (reverse wound) dummy coil on the back.
Some noiseless Js do have dummy coils underneath, but some are true stacked humbuckers.
I remember a guy at the FDP who put a R/W dummy coil in the control cavity of his '51 P Reissue. He claimed it worked fine.
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"The original PRS basses from the 80s had three single coil pickups and a fourth (reverse wound) dummy coil on the back."
True, and they supposedly sound great, but failed to find a market with their anodyne "Spector lavae" look. Made of mahogany too.
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Imitation P90 pickup rings are done!
I traced the P-90's from the blueprints and had to lengthen them a bit.
I glued up some flat stock cream ABS and milled out the slots. I still need to put the screw bevels in and fine sand & polish them.
A poor scan-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/pcvr.jpg)
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Looks Rightious!
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Cool pickup and ring. It's gonna look really nice on the bass.
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body cut, pickups & neck slots routed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030318.jpg)
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Damn your gud!
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Thanks, but don't look too close, there are a lot of imperfections already.
The F holes are slightly different as I pretty much did them by hand. I knicked the top and next is fitting the neck then located the bridge (hopefully will go where planned!)
It also helps to have a machine shop at work, but I am in no way a machinist !!
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Metal shavings freak me out!!Ill take splinters any day.MMaple is very forgiving and patchs well . just watch your glue lines.M
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The glue lines look pretty good, but I still have to glue the neck!
Our shop does mostly plastic model prototyping & some wood, but no metal. All old fashioned machines, bandsaw, lathe & mill no CAD stuff, resin Alias or 3D printers.
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I meant when you fix the chip. Steam it out first w/ an iron and wet cloth to decompress grain. I was wondering about the p90 covers. Nice! You do comissions? ;D
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Steam it out first w/ an iron and wet cloth to decompress grain.
My wife & myself used to work at a picture frame place and they had little hand irons to do that. Surprising how well that works. The problem is mine is gouged by a tool so will be needed to be filled with wood putty or sand & sealer. Its pretty small but, cut into the top. My grinder skipped across he top when touching up the F holes!
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heck this before you stain
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWCptCxNx4I&feature=related
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Video no longer available!!
:'(
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I just watched it . WTF!
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before you sand,dye the wood . sand it back 120 grit. stain again ,sand back 150 grit, stain again and sand back....
the reason being is the curl has diff densities and the diff grits remove dye from the softer woods. you can control the darkness by carefully sanding . this will give more depth to you top even though you chose light figure.
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try this link and the a search and scroll through vids.M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pB9sggNJfFo
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Great video very interesting!
Love his rug!
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check em out.http://www.bluemoonexoticwood.com/cuban_mahogany.html
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check em out.http://www.bluemoonexoticwood.com/cuban_mahogany.html
Wow, that is beautiful! Custom cut for $35 pbf isn't bad either.
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If you guys remember I had contacted the guy and he said he can get single pieces big enough for a Tbird body at , I think it was $125 a board?
I have the Email at work some where.
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I have discovered that there is a angle on the back that goes from 1 1/4" at the neck joint to 1 3/4" just past the horn as seen in this picture. The blueprints did not show this! I found this picture that shows it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/blkblueshawkb.jpg)
So now I have to figure out how to put the angle on. I was thinking either I will build an angle plate for the milling machine, or machine it in steps, then file it flat, or just take it off on the disc sander (dirty job)
The is a pretty complicated body design, but am enjoying building it. I put the body in the sun today and the green of the poplar did indeed turn brown.
I have the neck fitting, back tummy contour started and the swimming pool for the Kahler routed
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Here is the BB King Lucille II version. It has different wound pickups and has the varitone faceplate
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/little5.jpg)
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Interesting! Post some more pics as it comes along.
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Do you do commissions on the P90 covers?
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No, put I could send you some scraps of the cream ABS.
It pays to be friends with your neighbors. My next door neighbor has a hand held belt sander. It is a very scary tool to take to a bass at this stage, not for the faint of heart. I tested it on some scraps first. Luckily it had kind of dull sand paper on it, so I had to work at it a bit to get the angle just right. The angle turned pretty good.
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Check this technique out
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30136
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Thanks for all the cool links.
Hmmm, seems like there are 30 ways to do this!
Interesting with the shellac as no spraying involved. His technique would not be compatible with Wig guys rough sanding technique, though.
One things for sure, it's going to be fun experimenting. I just hope the StewMac blue dye I bought is nice looking and does not look like the dead colors of RITs dyes.
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I have some of their dye also. I would trust the most recent guys method because he is a luthier and a musician. The french polish method is more easy to control. I like the method of adding black or dark, and sanding out then do your top color. Because you chose a light figure,you want that to show through plus the blue is dark so it takes some of the risk out.Id forget the 1st video. I would bet my Hobbit Ho that is the way PRS makes those awesome 10 tops . I just finished grouting the tile in my kitchen so I may end up in my shop . Ill grab a piece of scrap tiger maple and practice with the stew mac blue.M
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I am thinking of not using black but mixing the blue really dark for the "black" stain.
If you look at the PRS top it looks like dark blue & a light blue vs black stain to me.
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The light and dark contrasts are partly due to the diff densities of the figure in the wood itself,which allows more or less absorption of dye. alls the black does is highlight the figure,the color does the actual work . You would need a microscope to actually see the black. Look at one of their gold or bronze colored 10 tops. If there was no black in the initial coat, that would never pop like it does. Im dyin to practice dyin !!have fun.M
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back angles cut with neck loose
Observe he color difference of the Poplar- the fresh cut vs the sun browned wood
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/bkbvl.jpg)
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Caught red handed!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030326.jpg)
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that is gonna be sweet.
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That is really looking nice!
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Nice! I must say I don't like the BluesHawk that much, but this looks very nice and promising!!
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Nice! I must say I don't like the BluesHawk that much, but this looks very nice and promising!!
To tell you the truth, neither did I, much like the Non reverse Tbird first looked odd to me, but it grew on me. Seeing and holding my friends Blueshawk really got me hooked. It was a beautiful and complex guitar in person
The whole concept and execution is built to be a "players guitar" which seems like an update of the first Les Paul P-90 version. From the lighter weight chambered body to the heelless neck joint, smaller lower horn with better upper fret access and the tummy contour, the body feels great. It will be a great match for the fast playing Ripper neck.
The electronics likewise, is very Gibson and made with "the player" in mind ( the only Dummy coil Gibson?), the bypass varitone, two controls keep it simple, and the added plus of a pickup selector all within reach. They were designed by JT Riboloff who has since moved on from Gibson.
The appearance is a bit odd and doesn't appeal to all -
The BluesHawk is not a budget instrument and represents one of the few recent attempts by a major manufacturer to try something genuinely new.
It was a very innovate guitar and I am dying to see how a bass version will play & sound. The guitar certainly seems to have a cult following. My friend loves his and he owns a lot of expensive guitars.
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Wow, that is looking so good!!!!
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By the way thanx for the lead on the cuban mahog.(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/shadowcastaz/icon_mrgreen.gif)
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Blueshawk's back contour-
"The minimum dimension is .950 inch from top to back. This "minimum dimension" is located approximately at the center of the F hole...
if you draw a line across the guitar body parallel with the frets it would intersect with the "minimum dimension" and the center of the F
holes.
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He sent me these pictures last night
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/DSC03987.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/DSC03985.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/DSC03979.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/DSC03975.jpg)
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Well, it's your bass you make. so you decide. So there isn't anything wrong. Only slightly different.
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True, since it is a bass, the contours could differ.
I find it strange the way the narrowest point of the back contour is on the widest part of the body. I really wanted to make it as Gibson would (without the poor quality & lack of craftsmanship). With Gibson's other guitar bodied basses, they have kept them pretty much identical, body size & contours. I can still contour mine the same as above. I am only down about 1/2" into my contour at the bodies waist. I could easily remove the extra wood to get it where the guitar is.
Funny but in the second picture above there appears to have a slight bump in the contour at the waist!
I don't think I have seen that on a bass before?
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The bump is for your belly button , provided you have an innie.Be careful ,dont sand into your hollow under the F hole.
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I don't think I have seen that on a bass before?
I think its intent is to stimulate an accupressure point beneath your sternum that induces an affinity for all things relating to John McLaughlin or Mahavishnu Orchestra.
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I think its intent is to stimulate an accupressure point beneath your sternum that induces an affinity for all things relating to John McLaughlin or Mahavishnu Orchestra.
Thanks for the warning! :o
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I got my Cuban Mahog yesterday.Nice!
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Pics ?
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(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/shadowcastaz/IMGP0527.jpg)
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Those boards have potential!
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How do you know that's Cuban? If you put it under black light, do you see an image of Desi Arnaz?
Just wondering, since Cuban allegedly hasn't been offered commercially for decades. And if it is Cuban, is it old stock? If not, what's the advantage?
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Many old instruments were make with cuban mahogany . It is supposed to be the real deal. before my severance dries up , i figured Id treat myself. I guess I trust the supplier. :P
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I think just about all the commercially available mahogany in the US was Cuban until the embargo. But it is embargoed, so how does you supplier have it? If your supplier has wood of the same species but grown in another country on different soil, then it's not the same thing. And even if the embargo were lifted tomorrow, it wouldn't mean that you could get the same old growth mahogany as you could 50 years ago.
Even well-meaning suppliers misrepresent things, especially when it's an import and they can't easily verify the source. For example, Honduras mahogany is commonly sold in the US, but Larry Davis of Gallery Hardwoods says that it's all really big leaf mahogany, even when it's from Honduras. He says real Honduran mahogany hasn't been available for years.
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If your supplier has wood of the same species but grown in another country on different soil, then it's not the same thing
True to a point, but it is grown tropically and is at least the same species or so they say. It's the best we are going to get, unless we cut up granda's dresser
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Not being a tree hugger myself, I find most of the mahoganies very similar and I can't discriminate between them very well to be honest. I would need a lot more schooling to really tell the difference among them all. I figure as long as I continue to buy old abused basses that are 20+ years old, I'm probably getting what connoisseurs think of as good old mahogany. Otherwise, it's a crap shoot to me.
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...Otherwise, it's a crap shoot to me.
Uh-oh, you've got creeping Rudyism. Better see a doctor! ;D
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Uh-oh, you've got creeping Rudyism. Better see a doctor! ;D
Oh my, I had forgotten the origin of that universal truism! You have a great memory Dave! I wonder what ever happened to him. I dropped the FDP when it became nothing but negative back and forth over which bass was the best in history. Really childish nonsense. We've got a much better atmosphere here.
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http://www.bluemoonexoticwood.com/cuban_mahogany.html
nuff said.
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So it's the Cuban mahogany species but it's from the Pacific Rim.
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I was going to get some several years ago, but never had the need. Although in todays day & age, investing in exotic hard wood would be better than 90% of stock investments today.
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This bass switching system seems pretty complicated. I'm not sure what wire goes where on the double sided switch. To make matter worse I can't really read a schematic, but I do understand it somewhat, but it does not indicate where on the toggle switch the wires go. To complicate matters further the switch when in a position, contacts are spread around on the switch!
I'm lost on what goes where?
The switch
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/SWICHSCAN.jpg)
a diagram I made on what makes contact in each position-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/SWITCHLAYOUT.jpg)
Gibson's schematic
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/gibsnschemeatics.jpg)
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An explanation of its function
"The main feature of the BluesHawk is that you can obtain a good single-coil, fast attack-type sound with hum-cancelling capability," Riboloff said, "With the hum-cancelling mechanism in place, it also makes the pickups more efficient and makes them more powerful."
The secret of Riboloff "Blues-90" pickup system is a dummy coil, placed away from the strings to cancel hum without interfering with the working pickups. He explained how the hum-cancelling mechanism works.
"The 'dummy' pickup is basically another pickup, but it doesn't have the magnetic core in it," Riboloff said. "It cancels out opposing sides of the A/C signal and provides a path for the other side of the signal to travel through to prevent the hum." - the blueshawk thinks this is a pretty inarticulate explanation of what is admittedly a difficult thing to explain. Riboloff notes that the idea of a dummy coil is not new, but his use of the technology is. "Dummy coils have been used in the past, but I've never seen it used in the manner that I used it in," he said. "It's wired into the circuit in a unique fashion to where it knows to get out of its own way when it's not needed."
"The user doesn't have to worry about turning it on or off; it automatically happens when he selects his pickups normal with the normal three-way pickup selector. When you are in the middle position, for example, the two normal pickups cancel each other out and the dummy coil is automatically inoperative. The pickups are 360 degrees out of phase with each other, which makes them actually in phase but opposite polarity. One pickup is picking up the top side of the sine wave and the other pickup is picking up the bottom half." - the blueshawk says - this is the same principle at work in humbucking pickups.
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Another Gibson drawing
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/BHwiringt.gif)
Where is Granny Gremlin when you need him?
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Yikes, that looks like wiring for a NASA control module!!!
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"Dummy coils have been used in the past, but I've never seen it used in the manner that I used it in," he said. "It's wired into the circuit in a unique fashion to where it knows to get out of its own way when it's not needed."
That was one of the things that I thought was cool about this project. I think I have it figured out- In the schematic you see a 123 sets that indicate wiring for each position on the switch. Each position has 6 contacts on two sides of the switch.
So I believe all I need to do is wire the sets on their positions, plus the neck position with the "Bleed Network" which is a capacitor & resistor together
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Where is Granny Gremlin when you need him?
thought i would pass this on, an email i got less than 2 weeks ago:
'Hey Bill, been a while.
Congrats on the grandchild. I've been busy in a family way myself - just bought a house and am getting married in September...... Jake"
BTW looking good on that build!
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Based on the numbering on your diagram, I think this would work:
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/0chromium0/forums/gibsnschemeatics2.jpg)
You see how there are two layers to that switch? That what the labels "disc 1" and "disc 2" refer to.
That would give you:
Position 1: Treble pickup and dummy coil
Position 2: Treble and neck pickup
Position 3: Neck pickup and dummy coil
Looks like one section of that switch (pins 7-10, in this case) will remain unused.
Let me know how that works, or if you have questions on it.
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Thanks.
With both pickups on, the Dummy coil should be inactive.
On a parts labeled drawing it lists a 100K resistor for the "bleed network", but it does not give any other info on what kind or watt rating?
I have some 100K 1/4 watt 2% metal film resistors. Would that work?
I found this place that sells audio resistors
http://www.angela.com/catalog/resistors/Resistors.html
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I don't think you'd need or realize any great benefit from using precision resistors there. If I was doing it, I'd just use those 2% metal films that you already have. It's safe to assume 1/4-watt rating throughout.
If you ever do need or want them, I buy parts from these guys. They have good pricing on precisions ($2.95 for a bag of 100):
http://www.action-electronics.com/resist1p.htm
That's a cool circuit, btw! Short of wiring it initially, it strikes me as very simple to use and should yield a lot of different tones.
What did you use for the dummy coil? Another G-3 pickup?
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yes I bought three of the Bill lawrence G-3 / S-1 pickups from GreatDealz and sent them to Lindy Fralin to demagnetize one of them.
I bought a Bid D varitone, the new model, which uses Orange Drop Capacitors which are huge!
The more OI found out about the guitar the more I though its a cool idea for a bass. The G-3 pickups are probably the best single coil high output picks they made, which the guitar feature high output single coils as well.
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Did the second staining today.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/stan.jpg)
I still need to sand the excess stain from the wood faux PRS style binding. I clear coated it before I stained it so the seepage stain will remove easily.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/stain.jpg)
thanks to Shadowcastaz about staining it black first. That really popped the grain without looking really like black. The poplar stained really well. Thanks to dave for linking me the article about leaving polar in the sun to turn it brown.
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very nice, that's really going to look sweet when it's done! you did a good job bookmatching the top, too.
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I really like the way that color is turning out. It must be the black base coat.
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That blue is turning out very nice! Nice job!
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That looks sharp ! Nice work !
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I saw a 650 goodguys is selling on ebay and it is quite similar to your blueshawk. not identical, but a definite resemblance. a testament to the quality of your work in my mind.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=170220364546&Category=64402&_trksid=p3907.m29
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Oh yeah, keep 'em coming! I didn't used to be a fan of blue guitars, but they are growing on me and I can't wait to see yours all finished.
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Just got back from flyfishing on Cape Cod and could not wait to check the forum.That is coming out awesome!!Im a fan of figured woods and that suttle figure surely came alive with that process. I have built many pieces of furniture with tiger and blister maple and did not find out about sanding out black to pop grain until recently. My wife would kill me if I sanded all the stuff I made and did the black treatment. My couch alone would make any custom shop builder have a chub for all the 2" X 8" tiger I have in than ass supporter.
Im toying with green dye on the starfire.....not really convinced yet
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Hey shadow, if you're not sure about the green dye for the SF, spray several coats of nitro S&S first, then try some dye. If you don't like the look, you can sand/strip off. I was using nitro based spray tint though, nothing hand applied. I've done that a couple times when I wasn't sure and it works well.
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That blue is something!
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Teaser pics since it's time to start with sanding sealer & clear coat- which I know it might get done by fall if I am lucky.
I thought I might as well do a pre assembly hardware pics outside in some nice light.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030563.jpg)
Faux Binding edges cleaned up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030562.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030561.jpg)
I ended up sanding the back contour to guitar specs
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030565.jpg)
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Awesome!
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It turns out great!
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Man that is tight !!!what is faux binding?... Is it the edges on the top? :mrgreen:
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Man that is tight !!!what is faux binding?... Is it the edges on the top? :mrgreen:
I believe it's just a painted on stripe to look like binding. Once you clearcoat it, it's hard to tell it from the real thing from what I've heard. I'm going to try it sometime on a future project just to see how it works.
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Thanks
You just leave the top maple laminated edge nakey!
;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/misc/bluemeany.jpg)
A Blues Meanie perhaps?
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Thanks
You just leave the top maple laminated edge nakey!
;)
Do you mask the top to get an edge on the top? What do you use to mask if you do? Can you show us a close up?
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First I masked the entire bass but the edge of the maple top and maple fret board sides. I used big pieces of some green masking tape called Frog tape from Home Depot (still seeped). I used a Exacto knife to trim the edge of the tape away. I spray two coats of clear nitro. Removed the tops tape then covered the natural edge, then stained the top black. Sanded that back, then removed all the tape again and just taped the edges off then stained blue. For the top a sanded a we bit away from the edge to give the binding depth. StewMac sez you should use a razor blade and scrap the top edge dye away.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030570.jpg)
I still have to clean up the edge some more
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That turned out great! I'm definitely gonna try it sometime. I was wondering how you got the top edge to show. I didn't think of sanding or scraping it.
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very nice looking bass!
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That looks incredible so far! Great concept, and beautiful execution!
Are you accepting deposits yet? ;D Just give me the word, and the Ripper gets it! :o
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Clear coat wet sanded, need to fix more slight imperfections before final 2000 wet sanding & buffing.
It's getting shiny now. you can see how it darkened up considerably.
At first I was not sure about me not refinishing the fingerboard, but I like the yellowed aged look from the Ripper
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030886.jpg)
You can see some green from the poplar, I guess because I did not put it in the sun after the final sanding, but still looks good to me
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030884.jpg)
The neck actually stained rather well (I sanded the old finish off)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030883.jpg)
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Im glad your back on this . You sure have had your hands full with personal stuff. I would not worry about the green from the poplar, It makes it unique to your build . That is a sweet lookin axe!!!
I love the aged maple board. Im an ebony fanatic but I may go maple based on yours.M
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I like the way it's darkened up. For a while there it looked like it might turn out too bright.
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I like the way it's darkened up. For a while there it looked like it might turn out too bright.
Thanks guys,
I totally agree, I thought it was kind of shocking before the clear coat.
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The blue is very nice. I wouldn't worry too much about the green either. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!
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That is looking really good!
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the fingerboard looks very nice against the body with the aged nitro. the green spots won't matter in 20 years!
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You keep going like that, John, and Gibson marketing will call you asking whether they can license it off you! Wunderschön.
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Beautiful work John ! I am always amazed and impressed by the work done by members of this forum.
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I have two cracks off my F hole !!!!
I tried filling them with thinned Tightbond, but I guess superglue might be the answer.
i figure I will get everything together and go back and spot fill them.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030891.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1030890.jpg)
A 3/4 view of the crazy body contours
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/tall.jpg)
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Oh man I didn't know you were going to put a Kahler on it :o !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm not surprised though ;) One of these days I gotta put one on a bass.
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Once you get used to it or have a need for one I wish ever bass I owned had one.
Yes it's not pretty, but this whole bass is kind of odd, like me!
It would look 1000 times better with a Dawson Bridge & T bird tail piece.
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Talked with the electronics guy and he said it works really well with a lot of usable tones. He said it really makes sense as a bass. Plays & sounds really nice.
He said the way they figured out the electronics was to put aside the wiring diagrams and just use the schematics, but apply it to the switch put in different wiring positions (on the switch). Then it worked. He said he got another strictly electronics guy to help him.
I will pick it up Saturday.
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Cool! I think i don't have to ask to post some pics? ;)
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And hopefully sounds.
:P
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Just picked it up-
Some surprises for everyone and lessons learned
Overall it turned out yummy!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1040037.jpg)
The bridge needed to be set slightly lower to get the action nice & low, so, I routed even more wood away!!!!
Of coarse this put even more ding scratches etc, in it. Lesson is put bass together completely before you finish it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1040044.jpg)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1040042.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/Untitled-1.jpg)
Other surprises, since I could not pick it up for another week since hey got it working, I had them refret it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/Fenderbird/ripper%20project/P1040035.jpg)
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That sure turned out nice. What about the tone? How about the feel and balance? Maybe I missed something earlier, but why the refret?
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I just got playing it and first impression is it sounds a lot like a Fender Jazz bass, and unlike any of my other Gibson basses.
Each pickup separately sound pretty articulate warm, clean and clear, but both pickups together give you a nice hot snarling sound. It does not have that slightly fuzzy or blurry Mahogany sound of my other passive Gibsons. Again slightly Jazz sounding. Sustain & harmonics are very good. The balance is not to bad due to the Kahler I assume. Overall it seems light, like around 8 pounds?
The big D adds another element as expected from a compressed nasal tone sucking sound, a woofy almost mudbucker, to a hot raspy one and several in-between.
I will try to post some clips in the next week.
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It probably could of done with out the refret, but the frets were pretty worn (did have some life left) - they could not level the frets, so I figure what the heck, refret it.
Surprisingly it sounds very clean (without the varitone on), absolutely no hum, but still has a nice passive warmth.
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Oh yeah, that turned out really nice! inspiring for sure!
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Glad to see that you have it finished. I think it turned out very nice. Sounds like you are happy with it so I'd call it a success!!
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Damn nice example of skilled craftsmanship.I remain humbled.M
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Came out great! Can't wait to hear it.
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looks great!
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that looks so good,your dog may start barking! :mrgreen:
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that looks so good,your dog may start barking! :mrgreen:
:D
But it sure looks great! Much better than I thought it would be! I never liked the Blueshawk a lot, but this bass with these pickups, color and knobs is pretty!
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Thanks-
Here is a rough sound demo, forgive the crappy playing!
The bass comes off very punky/ clanky and begs to be played with a pick, thus I did these playing with a pick.
http://8.14.112.20/bands/page_songInfo.cfm?bandID=578947&songID=6798117
The first verse is the front pickup
Second verse is both pickups
Third verse is bridge pickup
After the break each verse is one Big D varitone setting in sequence
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Damn fine sound.Kudos!M
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The link above only brought me to soundclick.com and I don't know what to do from there, but the bass looks fantastisch. And I like Jazz Bass tones for their purity.
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http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=578947&content=music
I don't know why the link is not working, but try this one.
I have been recording with the bass and have found its sweet spot. The bass with some effects, really sounds like a trumpet, horn section with its single coil clear sound. The Varitone has been very useful as well. At first I was not sure I really liked the tone as it was very clear, somewhat thin.
I will post a song I am working on just using it. If I were to change anything on the bass I would have moved the pickups further apart to get a greater variation in tone. A single coil closer to the neck would have added more beef to the tone. The two pickups together obviously give you a much fuller sound. Funny but I found myself using the single coil only modes for the horn parts. The Dummy coil works really well as the bass is dead quite in single coil mode. That with the kahler and the first setting on the varitone, you have an instant trumpet/trombone sound that is really cool. None of this is reflected in the above clips. Those are just the straight sounds pretty much and now really do not reflect what this bass can do.
This bass makes me horny!
While I find the very clean single coil sound great for the role this bass is fulfilling, I wonder what some hot, high output single coils would sound like. Probably not as horny.
This bass is the polar opposite of my LP.
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Polar opposite is more reason to leave it be . Id send Bill lawrence and his daughter a pic of this bass.
http://www.billlawrence.com/
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Yes, I agree. I needed to see what it can do, not make it the same as all my other basses or what's the point?
I sent him a pic. Great site.
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And he is still at it. amazing!his daughter is very sweet on line .
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Here is the song "Horn Toad" that is just using the Blueshawk"
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=578947&content=music
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Hey, I kinda missed this whole thread when I was awol - took me a while to catch up. The bass looks excellent I must say. Good job.
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Woah! I totally missed this whole thread!!
Where was I two years ago?? Did the BaCHbird perhaps consume me that much to make me overlook this cool project? :-[
This is awesome John. I never knew you built it yourself :o
I have lot of catching up to do.
Thanx for the heads up guys.
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I remember the beginning of this project but I seem to have missed this thread as well. What a great progression from idea to execution!
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Its been about a year or so since it was finished. It has become my number two bass. I really enjoy playing it.
With the single coil pickups it has a very clean thin sound that works great with the Kahler for lead & chordal / horn stuff.
That with the varitone really gives it a nice clean variety of tones.
I don't really like the straight bass sound though. Too thin & mild. The LP is still my favorite straight bass tone.
I discovered that I am not a single coil guy for regular bass playing. I love my pickups hot & heavy.
The other thing I dont care for on this bass is the hard top edges that cut into your arm (like a Ric).
If I were to build another I would use high output single coils & a mahogany body. I can also this bass with a two piece LP tbird style bridge. I do not regret the kahler in any way.