The Last Bass Outpost
Gear Discussion Forums => Bill's Shop: Projects, Mods & Repairs => Topic started by: amptech on November 24, 2013, 03:34:39 AM
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Does anybody here know a good source for gibson bone bass nut blanks?
Most blanks i can find is no more than 6mm wide. I need 8mm for a ´67 eb0 project.
Apparently, those who part out basses now also takes the nut off.
It is only a matter of time before the dot inlays go too....
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I usually go to the butcher and ask for a piece of bone.
Really, it isn't hard to cut/sand a topnut. (it does give kind of a foul smell when you sand it)
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I usually go to the butcher and ask for a piece of bone.
Really, it isn't hard to cut/sand a topnut. (it does give kind of a foul smell when you sand it)
ReallY?? I always thought it had to be cut from horns. Is regular cow bone hard enough?
I do have a good butcher. I also usually cut from blanks, so I´ll manage. And it smells like burning your skin with a soldering iron and burning your hair at the same time....
How do you dry that ´fresh bone´, then?
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Stew Mac or Luthiers International don't have them?
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I bought a small stock of blanks off Ebay years ago. Wasn't very expensive- around $10 or so.
I just use sandpaper taped to the bench for the bulk of the shaping, sometimes a dremel to help round the edges.
The blanks look like this:
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/0chromium0/forums/1124131228.jpg) (http://s87.photobucket.com/user/0chromium0/media/forums/1124131228.jpg.html)
Here's one that I made:
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/0chromium0/forums/guild/DSCF0009.jpg) (http://s87.photobucket.com/user/0chromium0/media/forums/guild/DSCF0009.jpg.html)
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I do know how to make them, the problem (maybe I was not specific enough) is that the regular blank bone size
is to small for the ´wide´nut style of the skinny neck late 60´s gibson basses. A regular bass blank is up to 6mm wide,
while the gibson nut is 8mm.
I do use StuMac for nut blanks, but neither them (or China/ebay) have wider than 6mm.
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I do know how to make them, the problem (maybe I was not specific enough) is that the regular blank bone size
is to small for the ´wide´nut style of the skinny neck late 60´s gibson basses. A regular bass blank is up to 6mm wide,
while the gibson nut is 8mm.
I do use StuMac for nut blanks, but neither them (or China/ebay) have wider than 6mm.
Got ya... Yeah the blank I posted there is also only 6mm thick. I didn't even realize that some Gibbies had thicker ones, but just looked at my Triumph and sure enough!
Rob's suggestion is probably worth a go in that case.
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I do know how to make them, the problem (maybe I was not specific enough) is that the regular blank bone size
is to small for the ´wide´nut style of the skinny neck late 60´s gibson basses. A regular bass blank is up to 6mm wide,
while the gibson nut is 8mm.
Yep, that's how it is these days... superglue one up from 2-6mm pieces. You won't notice the line after you shape it.
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Yep, that's how it is these days... superglue one up from 2-6mm pieces. You won't notice the line after you shape it.
What a simple idea!
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Just wait until somebody claims the superglue affects the tone.
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ReallY?? I always thought it had to be cut from horns. Is regular cow bone hard enough?
I do have a good butcher. I also usually cut from blanks, so I´ll manage. And it smells like burning your skin with a soldering iron and burning your hair at the same time....
How do you dry that ´fresh bone´, then?
Haha I don't know. Just used what I got.
It looked and felt dry. ???
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Some great builders have been known to glue their nuts together :)
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/0chromium0/forums/ibanez/1110131420b.jpg)
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Some great builders have been known to glue their nuts together :)
Sounds painful...... ;D :rimshot:
Crawling back under my rock now ;)
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There was no way for this thread to stay clean, was there....
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I spied some bone blanks on Ebay that might help. That width would work okay if yours has the skinnier neck...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Unslotted-bone-nut-ukulele-mandolin-40mm-8mm8mm-NUTC-/221324662938?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3387fa589a
Also observed that the stock nuts on my '66 EB-2D and '68 EB-3 are both only 4-5mm thick, and looking back at pics my former '69 EB-0 the nut is much thicker - like that of the Triumph. Never noticed that difference before!
Can't say I recall ever having this much dialog about nuts, actually. :-X
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Thanks a lot, chromium- i jumped right on it.
Perfect size, I´d say. I´m really looking forward to rub them all shiny :P
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Also observed that the stock nuts on my '66 EB-2D and '68 EB-3 are both only 4-5mm thick, and looking back at pics my former '69 EB-0 the nut is much thicker - like that of the Triumph. Never noticed that difference before!
My '67 EBO has the thick nut. '60 and '65 are thin, ditto my '67 EB2.
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Speaking of nuts... been meaning to ask about this here, and now seems like as good a time as any...
I have one on my Mockingbird that I'd like to remove and either replace or shim ("E" slot is low)... but I can't seem to pry it loose. It appears that it is secured in there *really* well, and tightly wedged between the fingerboard and headstock veneer.
No idea what type of glue is involved, but was wondering if any of you have tricks for removing a stubborn nut?
(http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/0chromium0/forums/1125131636b.jpg) (http://s87.photobucket.com/user/0chromium0/media/forums/1125131636b.jpg.html)
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Well, the X-acto trick is well known but might not work always. Be shure to cut the finish along the side walls of the nut, then tap lightly
front to back and vice versa. Use your fingers when it starts go let go. You might be able to slide it out sideways with pliers if yoy loosened it enough. A better way might be to cut it with a thin saw along the nut length, almost way down to wood and then collapse it towards the middle.
This will save the finish 100% if you are careful, but be shure to cut the laquer first and protect head with low stick tape all over.
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wouldn't it be easier to drop a few coats of super glue in the low slot and re-cut it?
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Well, the X-acto trick is well known but might not work always. Be shure to cut the finish along the side walls of the nut, then tap lightly
front to back and vice versa. Use your fingers when it starts go let go. You might be able to slide it out sideways with pliers if yoy loosened it enough. A better way might be to cut it with a thin saw along the nut length, almost way down to wood and then collapse it towards the middle.
This will save the finish 100% if you are careful, but be shure to cut the laquer first and protect head with low stick tape all over.
Ditto. Good suggestions.
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Interesting opportunity to make a two-tone nut!
"Add yet another desirable style element to your bass!"
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wouldn't it be easier to drop a few coats of super glue in the low slot and re-cut it?
There are ways to mix bone dust/glue and pack it in the slot (Dan Erlewine tip) but it´s only a temporary solution, it´s messy and who knows how long it lasts. I´d say the nut is so important you´d want the very best solution.
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Thanks for the tips. The few I've done in the past gave way much easier, but this sucker is really in there!
I did try an epoxy+bone mix to build up the E saddle a bit, but it only lasts for a short time and then tends to get pulled out - maybe by the string windings as I'm tuning it. I haven't tried that with CA yet, though. Maybe be worth a shot, since it's just that one slot that is borderline low.
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Thanks for the tips. The few I've done in the past gave way much easier, but this sucker is really in there!
I did try an epoxy+bone mix to build up the E saddle a bit, but it only lasts for a short time and then tends to get pulled out - maybe by the string windings as I'm tuning it. I haven't tried that with CA yet, though. Maybe be worth a shot, since it's just that one slot that is borderline low.
I use CA gel with bone dust. CA sticks to the nut better than epoxy and it's harder.
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Had a nut "professionally" done on one of my banjos this week...what a huge difference that made! Huge...I may end up taking all the instruments out to be "pro" set up...
The instrument is a pleasure to play now.
Biggest difference I have ever seen in an instrument for a very small amount of money.
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Biggest difference I have ever seen in an instrument for a very small amount of money.
After learning how to make nuts, I started to look over all my basses, some of which I have played for over 20 years.
It annoys me that I did not do so before, it´s all the difference in the world. Those which had bone nuts (grabber, a couple of eb´s) just needed some attention with height and slot polishing, but a couple of not so expensive ones with plastic nuts became very playable and much better sounding.
Never underestimate the power of the nut!
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Never underestimate the power of the nut!
Yeah, bust a nut! ;D :P